@@Dougarony it’s a Honda so I’d assume 10mm for the VTT but you’re going to need a whole socket set to get to it. But this isn’t the VTC actuator (it’s a LOT more complicated). It is “related” to engine oil so it’s conceivable to cause a P1009 build be top of my list. One thing I don’t show in this video is you must support the engine with a jack and a block or wood on top before removing the motor mounts. Those bolts are massive - probably 22mm or larger.
Forgot to mention, you can easily test the VTT with some wires and the car battery. If it clicks, you’re good to go and can put it back in. Clean it up though. Don’t let the wires touch :)
@@Dougarony it’s a motor treatment that “liquifies” oil build up (like what you’re trying to get to in that screen. google it - should be at any auto parts store. Read instructions but you basically just pour it into oil reservoir (for an RDX I think it’s like 6oz)
My 2009 RDX just came up P1009, the oil level is fine, changed around 3k ago with long life synthetic oil, ( I didnt change the filter, usually do it every other time) any ideas? *I also had many RX-7's. Thanks much for any help.
@@Dougarony well, the good news is this likely won’t be expensive, assuming you’re decent around cars. The VTC strainer needs to be checked for debris and clogging. To get to it, you need to remove the belt, tensioner, and PS pump. PITA. It’s a tiny screen held in by a bolt IIRC. Then there’s the VTC actuator itself that would need to be tested. I’m sure RU-vid has videos for both of these. However, before you do any of that, use some seafoam and see if that doesn’t resolve it. I’ve heard of that fixing this code.
@@TallFamilyFilms Yes, I good with cars (usually) this RDX Turbo seems to have alot more stuff in the way vs the Accord. Seafoam? IN the engine oil? How much?
@@TallFamilyFilms Update: about 2 weeks ago, checked my oil, I had used about a 1/2 quart in 3k miles, I had a 5 qt jug of Mobile 1 synthetic oil left that had less than a quart left. I just emptied it, didnt recheck till I read where this code is usually for low oil, but what about too much? I had overfilled it (some) I took out about 12 Onces, no check engine light now! Thanks for all your help! Take care!
@@Dougarony that much over shouldn’t be a problem. You likely are needing a valve cover gasket. I have a video on that. It’s not super fun because of the ignition coil wiring apparatus.
@@TallFamilyFilms How could a gasket leak cause that code? I never saw any leaks before? I cleaned the area, I will see if any leaks continue, but drove around a ton yesterday and the code didn't return. :)
My 2017 has 163k miles. Has been clicking no start pretty regularly. I ordered a new one from Amazon for $90. Do you know if these cheap starters are any good? AutoZone was over $500. Thank you btw.
Just completed this job on a 06 armada i would like to thank you for the great video this job was tough i would just like to say in my instance i found it easier to remove the shroud and blend plate i had to cut a little off the shroud because i was unable to get the OEM actuator also i was able to mark the exact teeth i needed to line up with a felt pen and adjust the plate so i didn't have to spin the actuator . works great Thanks again
I have viewed several videos and searched for an answer to my dilemma. Your video provided more info than others, for which I am grateful. However, I am still at a loss as to how to correctly wire my 3-way table lamp. I have 3 wires: one black cord with copper wiring, one white cord with copper wiring, one red cord with silver or nickel-colored wiring. My socket has a turn knob and has a brass screw, a silver or nickel-colored screw, and a black screw. Am I correct in thinking the black cord is hot and should be connected to the brass screw, the white cord is neutral and should be connected to the nickel-colored screw, and the red cord is the ground and should be connected to the black screw?
@@RU-vid4MounTain colors and wiring are often times inconsistent. That being said, Black is almost always the wire that would go to the brass screw. And the white wire almost always would go to the nickel or silver plated screw. That third screw is usually not black, it’s green in lamps - usually. And that’s ground. The “3 way” is controlled by the socket itself. But you could solve this really easy with a voltmeter that you could pick up for literally five dollars if there’s a harbor freight near you. You might even be able to borrow one from an auto parts store if you leave a deposit. You would safely separate each of the bare wires and plug the wire into the wall and then begin testing with the voltmeter starting with the black and white wires. The red lead from the voltmeter should go to black and the black lead would go to the white wire. If you get 120 V, you know you’re correct. If you get -120 V then the black and white are reversed.
5th way I used is concentrated mini butane torch lighter (around $20-30) on the nut (applied less than 5 min) to heat up rusted nut (pb blaster with wire brush not strong enough in my situation to loosen up the rusted nut off). The backside ball stud disk was spinning (despite using locking vice clamp to hold in place with impact driver method failed to remove). The mini torch melted the plastic that was holding the ball in place, popped right off for both the front nut and the back link bar. Heat the nut, not the backside plastic. The heat on nut will melt the moulded plastic socket on the backside. Just be careful not to melt other surrounding components. Hope this helps.
@@TLEE68 there’s nothing like that feeling when it breaks loose! Way to stick with it - you really put a lot of elbow grease (and brain grease!) into getting that one out.
Hi thanks for the video. My parking brakes locks but it get stuck sometimes like it won't disengage. Also I notice a click when I move the truck first either forward or back.. is this normal? I've replaced all the pads new...
@@alainflores4075 the click is likely the front pads shifting into place. If the shims aren’t there or if the specific pads you have are just a hair too small, this happens. I had an Acura that did this regardless of which pads I tried. It’s not an issue, just annoying. The parking brake cable needs servicing. Hopefully you can force lubricant down it and not have to replace it. Can you see which side is stuck? If both wheel, then it might be the spring under the truck is no good anymore. If one wheel, you can replace cable to each side individually. Not a fun job if there’s a lot of rust though. Good videos on it in YT tho.
@@TallFamilyFilms got it. thanks yeah i sprayed some lithium wd40 on the ends of cable and try to bring the liquid in (engage/disengage). It's locking well now. sometimes i still need to engage/disengage a few times to feel it's fully lose. Just annoying i guess. the cable looks decent. it's not worn. 2018 truck with 40k miles..
I know this is 3 years old. But my neighbors 2022 Titan was just totaled by insurance for having flooded dash and electrical problems from the water intrusion? I have also seen that the full size moon roof is prone to water intrusion and when drain lines are plugged by debris it floods the floor. Two major defects with Titan trucks.
@@rickstewart2247 I have not re-applied it. It’s held up well - SO much better than all of the products that say they are designed to restore plastics. It could probably use another coat now but it’s honestly been great.
Great video! Very informative and straightforward. I just have one question: I could only find two wires in the ceiling, one white and one pink (they were connected to a conventional lamp holder). However, there is a black wire at the back, but it was not connected to this lamp holder. Should I replace the green wire with the pink one? By the way, I'm in a basement. Thank you in advance!
@@marianaolono348 hmmm - this is the problem with household wiring. It’s not consistent. If there was a dimmer on this previously, that’s probably what they use the pink for. If your new light isn’t metal, the green wire doesn’t matter (in my video the light was plastic and the shade was ceramic, so the green wire isn’t actually needed). Because you have some things outside of ordinary, you need an electrician or a voltmeter. Or maybe if you know how it was hooked to the old light you could see which screws were gold/brass vs silver to know which ones are hot. FWIW - the light WILL work if you get it backwards. However, the problem with wiring lights backwards is the thin metal base that the bulb screws into will be energized as opposed to the very inside pin on the tip of the bulb. This means you could get shocked by simply changing the bulb.
Great video.. straightforward and clear. Thanks for posting it. 🎉Same symptoms you described. My dishwasher also has a wall switch so easy to kill the power. 10 screws in the door and the electrical panel was exposed. Located the thermal fuse and carefully relieved the pressure from the clips as you described. Removed the thermal fuse, placed in the jumper wire and the panel lights lit up as they were suppose to 😊. Using a multimeter I checked the continuity of the fuse and there was none...it was shot. LEARNING: there are 2 different designs for this thermal fuse....be sure to order the EXACT design for your (Kitchenaid/Whirlpool) dishwasher. ..one has the lugs extending horizontally from the fuse (like mine), the other style the lugs are 90° to the fuse...one style is not interchangeable with the other...Amazon sells both kinds so be careful ordering. The cost of either one is about $6 to $8. Good luck. I happy to have a working dishwasher again....the scheduled AHR/Sears repair tech is not due for another 10 days 😂 (which I am canceling today).
@@jonathanhernandez5334 yes! Follow this guy, but don’t worry about cutting the excess until you’re all done. If this is the back side screws that you can’t see, I’d glue the zip tie in and cut the excess bc you’ll never get it in there otherwise. Also, that part from Nissan might be cheap? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZLobwa1My4w.htmlsi=Yr1ais0OT5Yp9wvC
@@unknownwriter2114 my Nissan Titan starter died on Sunday. I went to tap on it and discovered they designed it under the air intake manifold! So tapping it was not an option and I had to get towed. But when I finally got the bad starter out, a little tap and it did spin so I know that was my issue.
Excellent video, very discriptave! I have a TL with the similar 3.7 that has a leak in this area, possibly higher up. I replaced my Valve Covers a little over 2 years ago (perocity at the SP openings) and recently started thinking maybe I didn't get Hondabond in the correct areas which has [finally after almost 3 years?] lead to a leak. I also replaced the oil pressure switch for the higher spec one after getting faulty low oil pressure warnings and noticed a leak could be coming from my spool valve gasket. Thank you for posting this as I now have an excellent idea of what to expect and other areas to look at on the TL. When I replaced both the VTC and Spool gaskets on my 04 Si they were much more brittle than yours were! Thanks again.
@@swfoster it’s a side job for me. An unpaid one since I’m married to the potter! I’ve considered making more so now I will. Here’s a tip I wish we’d known a long time ago. When an element dies, more elements are not far behind. If you replace them one at a time you start pulling your hair out (I’m bald!). You’ll chase errors over and over because not all elements die cleanly. So do them all unless one died really prematurely.
I have an 2006 Acura MDX. I could not get a socket or wrench on the driver side to remove sway bar bushing bolt. The bolt facing rear of vehicle. Any suggestions?
@@sebestiensoliz8831 the 06 was a completely different beast. It was the last year of that original body style. It was also the last year of that unreliable transmission. I wouldn’t know without seeing it. Sorry man.
Great video. I followed along and was able to successfully complete this job. My fellow Canadians: I rented free tools from canadian tire and parts source. I have a question: did you torque down the nut on top of the ball joint? If so, how much?
@@arfeenmalik8331 I think so - but don’t recall the details. I also don’t recall if that was a castle nut or not but if it is and you can’t get the pin through after torquing, you always go tighter, not looser to get the pin in.
@@TallFamilyFilms occasionally when it rains, the vehicle would get really warm... then later it would get cold again. I have a 2015... Auto System check didn't work with the FOB, so I used the Valet Key and it worked. I noticed the air flow was blowing outward... So I swapped the the green and black line.... I'll test it in a few to see what I noticed. but its only 80 degrees right now..
you have all my gratitude for this video, as someone who was opening up the controller for the first time, l&l’s video was driving me crazy. Thank you.
Fuse is good. Jumped leads like in this video just to make sure, still nothing. Before I order any parts what would you change? Thank you in advance for any information.
@@TallFamilyFilms Thank you. I have to look again. When I opened it up I only checked 1 side for burns etc. was not sure how to remove back without breaking anything. What do you mean by " listen of the k "?
