I'm an airline engineer/inspector, I would say that's a major mistake right there. That guy who made that installation should be suspended or fired. Light aircrafts don't have back-up systems like large airplanes. Well done with the troubleshooting. You have my like/sub.
We usually end somewhere around 1/2 to 3/4 flaps. I don't find a huge difference with more flaps, and it takes a really long time to retract if you go around.
Could you guys share RPM/power settings and target airspeeds, flap settings, from the downwind leg, base, short final, flare, and touch down? While there are tons of RV10 content, there is not much out there on the specifics of flying them. This would really be helpful for us aspiring RV10 pilots! Love the channel!
I really try to get to a stable 95 knots in the downwind, which is where you want to start deploying flaps. I put in a small amount which really helps get the plane slowed down. Once you get down to below 90 (technically, 87 knots), continue deploying flaps and continue slowing down and getting into your base turn. I try and target 80 knots on base, and between 72 and 75 on mid to short final (depending on how loaded we are). Keep the nose pointed down down down down down until the flare. With full flaps, the nose points downward naturally, almost concerningly so. There is a desire to want to round out and level the plane off as you descend, but don't do that - you end up just flaring a hundred feet off the ground. Keep the nose pointed down, and round out close to the ground. Takes a bit of practice to really nail the sight picture. Not sure the power settings on those, I stop paying attention and just look out the window. But I suspect that it's pretty minimal - maybe 10 inches of mercury while in downwind to base, and then slight adjustments as needed up or down? I definitely carry a small amount of power into the flare, and then pull it out slowly while rounding out.
Great videos, helpful as Im getting going on my first condition inspection on my 10. I like the hole insert for the two bar on the nose wheel, any chance you recall what it is or where you got it?
Thanks a lot! The design was done by Conradd Kothman Maverick Aircraft Design and it was painted by Ken Kaminski's team at Flying Colors in Benton Harbor, MI.
If there is a club nearby he can fly gliders a year earlier than powered planes and teaches good stick and rudder skills. Talk to an IA to log his time building towards an A&P rating. Can he be the primary building and get the repairman cert for the plane? Will be great for him to take to college.
Not by default. Van's makes some you can add in, but they don't work very well in my opinion, and I would certainly not want to use them for any type of landing.
What a great RV-10, I am starting the build on mine and I am debating if I want to go with AC or no. We have 2 young kids and will be using the RV as a cruiser and we live in Canada where summer isn’t that long but quite hot and humid. What’s your thought on this.
Really tough call. My opinion is the added weight of the AC isn't worth losing the carrying capacity in the plane. I'd rather tough it out on the ground with some heat. You're not on the ground long, and once you get some altitude it's a non-issue. But a very personal decision, to be sure!
This is why I say if you are going to "use" your airplane you need a instrument rating. Because you planned on a VFR trip but weather can always change and you always need a out. If you guys were VFR only, with passengers, it is very tempting to try to make the trip and get into a sucker hole with no way out. As a commercial pilot you can not operate 50 miles from your departure airport or at night without a instrument rating. That should tell us something about using our planes for cross country travel and not having to learn a "lesson" first hand.
Yes, but you had your "out" by having your IFR rating and you had communication with ATC. What you wouldn't want is to be boxed in and not have communication with ATC. Then you would have to climb in IMC without a clearance. Not good but better than running into a mountain. I did a lot of training in a 172, N739WE, that ended up as a coffin for two people scud running and one was a CFI. I really loved that plane, it deserved better. That is not where any of us should want to end up. @taero
On your graph, what is the left column? Goes to 1400 range. I'm assuming your at cruise power? Running 400F CHT is a bit hot isn't it? Maybe I'm too conservative! That jagged CHT graph indicates a bad connection, as you found out. I used my data to calculate my GAMI spread. Shows how close your fuel injectors are calibrated. Real easy to do with your engine data that records. Just get into your normal cruise and slowly go from ROP to LOP. Then pull the data and look at where the first CYL EGT peaks and the last cyl EGT peaks. The GAMI Spread is calculated by determining at what total engine fuel flow each cylinder reaches peak exhaust gas temperature (EGT) and subtracting the lowest flow from the highest flow. Most engines are considered to have good fuel/air ratio balance if the GAMI Spread is less than 0.5 gph.
Left column is temp. The bundle towards the bottom are CHTs and higher ones are EGTs. 400 is not abnormal at all on RVs during the initial climbout. Lycomings can handle up to 430, though we try to keep things under 400 as much as possible.
Awesome job. An RV-10 is my dream plane. I currently have an IFR capable RV-12. I plan on only doing very light IFR with it. It's kept me current with a Dynon HDX and garmin GPS175, l love that equipment
I hear they are charging $60 to land these days. Curious what it cost you and if you over nighted? Love your plane. I'm helping a guy get his RV14 finished at KPIE.
Why do you hope to never have to request an IFR flight plan while in flight? Requesting a pop up IFR is a routine thing to do and should be done as soon as VFR is no longer possible just like you did which was the right thing to do.
Two reasons really: the controllers weren't really prepared for us to do so, and I think it's a small admission we probably should have filed an IFR flight plan at our midway stop.
I wouldnt feel any apprehension about asking for a pop up ever. You guys did the right thing. I live in Chicago which is very busy airspace and its done all the time.@@hotshotaero
Love the family aviation channel! Looking forward to more content. As someone who wants to build a hangar home and build a kit plane myself, you are both living my dream! Getting my CFI here in March, so hopefully I can start that adventure in the next couple of years. Love your RV-10, btw, great IFR set-up! Cheers!
We have a couple different ones we move around, but both nflightfam and flightflix.aero have great products. The exterior camera is usually a go pro hero 10, and we also have an insta 360 we use for the 360 interior shots.
Hi guys, would you guys just upgrade to a 2024 cessna station air h206t with a heater inside! Shes freezing to death. Here is what chuck qoute me. it was a pleasure speaking with you just now. Per our conversation I have attached an Optional Equipment Guide and a Specification & Description document which details the equipment included on the standard Stationair along with an overview of the warranties and training included with each purchase. I’ve also included a couple of renderings of the new interior for you. The base price for the 2025 Cessna T206H Stationair is $990,000.00.
I’m not a pilot, but have a few questions. 1. Why don’t you simply use a new oil filter and O-ring instead of reusing the ones you cleaned with solvent? 2. The threaded rod that the oil filter is installed on seemed to wobble. Is that how the rod was designed? 3. Do you use a torque wrench on the final filter case tightening? 4. Do you send your oil out for analysis? 5. Is there a small port in the engine fuselage that you can use to see whether the oil filter holder is leaking? Thanks in advance.
Happy to answer. 1. Most people use disposable oil filters. They're about 50 bucks a pop though, and you go through 2-4 a year depending on how much you fly. The reusable filter is a few hundred bucks, and specifically designed to be reused, so should pay for itself pretty quickly. 2. Your observation was astute. The rod wasn't firmly torqued into the filter housing when we first put it on, so it unscrewed as we took the filter off the first time. That has since been fixed. But since the filter is safety wired anyway, no real chance of it backing out while the filter is installed. 3. Correct, a torque wrench is used. After you do it long enough though, you get a pretty good idea for what the proper torque feels like. 4. I don't send mine out, but plenty do. Perhaps as the engine wears and ages more we may do so. 5. No place to observe for leaks, but I can tell you that on most aircraft engines, oil leaks out from multiple places on the engine anyway. It requires readding a quart of oil to the engine every about every 10 hours of flight at present.
Your volume of sound was very low at times. My husband who built his RV6 has had similar leaks and your RU-vid video very informative but the sound would drop off with your speaking at various points. Could you supply a translation on paper. Thank you.
RV10 cabins run hot! We have it modified back a bit so we don't get hot during the summer, but that means we don't have as much in the winter. We don't fly as much in the cold months, but when we do...
