A quest to have as much fun as possible while spending as little money as possible. Motorcycling isn't just a hobby, it's a way of life! In these videos I challenge myself, practice, learn and explore. I hope you can learn from and enjoy what I'm able to share with you. Feedback and requests are appreciated!
why in your two posts below are you telling people to use vice grips and saying that the screws are phillips head. They are not and are JIS screws which if you use a JIS driver can be loosend quite easily even if tight. You shouldn't be making these videos if you are that ignorant mechanically.
They are getting harder to find. The kits go for about 20.00 on E Bay. To look them up, type in OEM before Kawasaki or you will get wrong stuff. Make sure the kit comes with this special spark plug socket tool. It's gold if you want to change your plugs.
finger tighten the adjuster screw. hold it in place with the screwdriver WHILE you tighten the nut with and Open End Wrench.. Now, recheck the clearance with the feeler gauge. It is quite common for the adjustment to change during the tightening of the nut. Your job is to develop the skill to hold the screw still while tightening the nut with an end wrench. You cannot tighten the nut with a socket,yet !.. Also.. avoid over tightening the nut.. this damages the thread, and after that.. it will always want to change the adjustment as you tighten. Learn what 12 ft lbs feels like. snug it up with the open end wrench.. and if you have a torque wrench ( $10 now at harbor freight no excuse to not have one) double check the tightness with the torque wrench and then check the clearance again ! Once you learn to do this.. it is easy. Going slightly loose ( upper end of the specified range) is smart, because the valves are likely to tighten over time, and then they will burn if too tight. Too loose is noisey and really loose it wont run well.
My little Ninja is in rough shape. I recovered the seat and put reflect rims on it. I am going to change the exhaust.mine is banged up. I'd like to replace the main fairings on the front. New windscreen. Mine is jacked. Paint the swingarm black as well.
Seriously thank you I've been looking for hours on a video on how to clean carbs and everybody keeps going off on rants in there videos about all the mods and all their life stories of bike riding it's just like tell me how to clean the f****** carb so thank you bro thank you
Im looking at the same bike now. Thinking it could be a fun build! Toss on some sliders new exhaust give it a tuffer look maybe strip plastics turn it into a "streetfighter" type bike but i like the 90s style
intriguing. Because i watched this i am now able to fix my carb and my wife is no longer leaving me. Phew... thats good because she was a freak in the sheets.
I had problems with stripping all the screws. It took hours to take them out. I had to Dremel the tip in the screw and get it out. Some I used a wrench. I don't know why they can't use better screws. Replaced them with Allen key screws with washers. I think it's .7mm * 16mm. I stripped a pilot jet too. I bought a small screw extractor bit and it went right in the small hole of the pilot jet. I also made the mistake of soaking the diaphragm... Don't do that, expensive parts for just rubber.
I like the bike, and I like the smaller turn signals but they're not flush mounts. Also, you have some hyper-flash possibly coming from the front turn signals since your rears are still stock.
Saw your other speedometer video, I want to do the same thing to my motorbike... How are you liking it? Does it read speeds over 100 kmh? I know many speedometers don't have the capability to display a third number on the speedometer. Might not be a problem for you in mph but it is a problem for kmh. How did you attach the magnet?
Curtis definitely made some strange bikes and had some ideas that were a dead end, *but* at the same time he had some brilliant engineering solutions too.
Hola puede subir un vídeo de la instalación eléctrica?? Sobre todo del solenoide de arranque y la conexión del electroventilador , felicidades por los vídeos me facina!
Great Video. While you can *check* the valve clearances without removing the radiator, you will need to remove it to adjust the 4 exhaust valves (they are well hidden) at the very front of the cams which require you to stick your head where the radiator is to find them. With the exhaust valves its easiest to stick the feeler gauge under the cam lobes from out to in rather than the other way. For the sake of 5 extra minutes if you've already removed the radiator bolts it makes it so much easier and the bike could do with 2L of new coolant. For the rest of the world that use metric: Intake valves should be set between 0.08mm-0.13mm, Exhaust 0.11-0.16mm. Settings them at the looser end will give you more torque down low, better reliability, and smoother idle at the expense of slightly less top and increased valve train noise. While your at it its a good time to clean the air-filter with some dishwashing liquid and re-oil it, change the sparks plugs and inspect the fuel filter if fitted. With your coils: Red positive leads are always on the bottom, black (left)/green(right) are on the top. Once your done make sure you check the neutral light still works, top up the coolant and let it warm up, watch the temp gauge go up and ensure the radiator fan kicks in before you put the fairings back on as its easy to miss a wire.
