We provide honest work on gasoline and some diesel engines as well as automotive work. Our goal with this channel is to provide some entertainment a long with a few tips that may make things easier for the diyer.
Thanks for the info I'm doing a 08 jeep compass and i had a little bit of time on the front bolt since I couldn't see it so I just use the grinder and cut it since you could see from the bottom
I forgot to buy Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning the surface of three noticeable thumbnail-sized dents on my black car door which would have meant a 40-mile round trip to buy some from town. Still, luckily wifey said to try using some Hand sanitiser which we had because it was 70% alcohol. Amazingly it worked like a charm making the tabs stick well, but, I don't know if it would work as well on larger dents... But if you're stuck for a quick fix it might be worthwhile!
I used it on 2 of my cars...dents about the size of a dime. I was pleased with the results of removing about 90 percent of the dent. It takes patience and making the process about 3 or 4 times. I did not use the slide. Had to let the glue dry for at least 5 minutes. Also, used the tool very slowly and gradually letting it slowly stretch the metal back into place. The glue came of with a little alcohol and using the plastic scraper and my finger nail. Read the comments of people who have had success there is good suggestions. One thing I was suggest about using a heat gun...it will take longer for the glue to cool if the metal is hot. In the instructions it suggest not working on a hot hood so if your heating a body part with a heat gun the glue will not stick as well. I would not use a heat gun.
Thank you very much. I think I have same problem. I noticed my oil is low and it stalled while I was at stop sign or braking at red light. Until I added 3 qt oil to it. Problem seems like solved. Again. Thank you very much
So hard to watch this video. Complete lack of basic PDR technique, like using IPA to remove the glue. Did you even watch a skilled PDR video on RU-vid before attempting this train wreck? I've seen people using hot glue on the end of a hammer handle do a lot better job quicker.
I used to use the turtle wax ice liquid wax but they have discontinued it. It was the easiest wax to apply and remove. The wax came with a sponge applicator that you applied by just running across the paint. You would let it sit for 30min, wipe off the excess, and then finish with a clean dry towel. The best part about it was that you could apply it on hot panels in direct sunlight and it didnt matter.
I used that orange bottle new finish on my two year old Ford van.. within a couple weeks, the paint had turned dull, and I ran my finger across it because I thought it was fog, the paint came off on my finger like chalk.. it ruined my paint job. The real kicker was, I drove that van for 31 years. For 29 of those years, it looked old and sunbaked. I could never get that truck to shine again like it did when I bought it new I learned my lesson, I will never use anything but carnauba wax on any of my vehicles ever again, there may be better stuff out there, but I’m not gonna experiment anymore
@@andersonsgarage2334 gonna give it a shot had regular 3 pound sledge style hammer and just was nervous to mess up threads I'll definitely try giving this a go with a brass one and give it some beans lol
After using the vevor kit today, i can say the included clear glue sticks definitely stick. However, i only had success with the pads that had the 'golf ball' surface. All the pads with the intricate pattern didnt stick at all. Also make sure you wipe the dent & pads with methylated spirits followed by isopropyl 100% alcohol before each pull. I also recommend getting a professional to do the job, because this stuff is way to hard to get right. Ive managed to transform a medium size dent into a flat yet rippled surface that i guess looks slightly better than before...
@@andersonsgarage2334 I live in a warm 27° Celsius climate so I guess that might help. Gave glue 10mins to heat up & the same to set. Use enough glue that will cover edges of pad once you push down onto panel firmly leaving roughly 1mm film of glue. I only used the slide hammer so I can't comment on the rest of the tools that look like junk anyway 😂 I was looking forward to the challenge of tapping down the highs & was having some decent progress, but by then the neighbours were yelling at me so called it a day. I've read that "adtech crystal clear" glue sticks from Amazon are great for pdr if anyone is looking for a cheap alternative. Also, "fixsys wood glue sticks" are another great alternative for hardcore dents requiring more pull strength
One engine in how many thousand Ford 3.0 V6 engines. Come on give me a break. This engine was probably neglected and still operated until the spring gave up. You can find problems in every engine ever made if you look hard enough. Makes a great bull shit "You Tube" presentation though.
@@waynesimon7096 thats precisely what the video was about. Still running with all that metal in it. At NO point in the video did I claim the 3.0 Vulcan wasn't a great engine.
@@andersonsgarage2334 warming the panel to prevent paint cracking is for when using rods from behind pushing dents out. Regarding getting the glue to stick, I never warmed the panel with mine. 75-85°F is an ideal working temp for the glue
These vehicle manufacturers push this so much they want you to junk it and get another vehicle (I do mine every 5,000 kilometers, since it has a turbo). Also, the enviromentalists want this as well.
This is going back to when I was a kid when everybody did 3000 mi oil change there was no such thing as sludge I like today's motor at 7500 10000 and I'm like if it was good enough for our parents why couldn't we go back to that
Oil is cheap. Engines arent. Change your oil every 3000 miles. No matter what your manufacturer or the oil jug says. There is no such thing as 10k mile oil. That is a marketing gimmick. Also oil breaks down time. It oxidizes. So even if you dont drive much, the oil still breaks down.
10000 mile oil changes on my 16 car fleet. No problems even at 200k plus miles. Any less is over kill unless you really want to keep your car for 500k-1 million miles. But you may end up paying for repairs anyway at that kind of mileage. No reason to over do it.
@@andersonsgarage2334 I understand your argument but I feel like we need to dig a little deeper in order to conclude an objective best practice. I can understand that oil breaks down after so long and so many heat cycles. I can understand that the engine components may begin to wear out more quickly as the oil breaks down but where is the data that says we will get “this much more life” out of our vehicles by staying within certain oil change intervals? I believe the manufacturers factor in diminishing returns and useful life of the vehicle. Most cars are not rated for more than 250000 miles and frankly I don’t understand why anyone would want to keep a car past 250000 miles. I can see stretching it to 300k but normally one would have money saved and ready to flip into a newer car by that point so I don’t really see the fascination with treating a car like it needs to make it to 500,000 miles. Now i can speak from experience since I own a medium sized fleet with some vehicles over 200,000 miles. I have done 10,000 miles full synthetic oil changes and sometimes even beyond 10,000 miles and none of my cars are showing any signs of engine damage and no oil is burning. I don’t plan to keep those cars for much longer so I don’t treat them in such a way. Are you able to tell me how much longer my car will last by doing 5000 miles instead of 10000 miles and why that additional life is worth the additional expense and time? Do we have the data from master techs showing frequency of breakdown among long vs short interval oil changes? Like I said, if you are one of the odd balls that plans on keeping a car indefinitely then sure, do 2k or even 3k oil changes. That person may still end up replacing the engine at 300k miles.
This what I tell my Family... at a minimum.... 60% city driving = change at 3,000 miles 60% hwy driving = change at 5,000 miles and of course full synthetic only. As someone who used many different brands over the years Ive landed at Valvoline high mileage oil.
I replaced my steering rack on a 2018 Cadillac XT5. I replaced the motor from my old one to this one thinking about the computer and to save reprogramming issues. I had never done this and just inserted the motor and tighten the screws at the same spots the other ones were at. Now I have a noise and steering feels lose. Is there anything i can do ? Do I have to tension the belt?
@@pingpong9656 Not that I found. Had a new oil pump installed before it failed. I had some evidence that it was hung on redline for a while. As evidenced by the rocker failure, It looked like when the rocker let go it spread metal throughout the system.
@@andersonsgarage2334 I just rebuilt a 2.3L Duratec - it had spun bearings, bent crankshaft, burnt out connecting rods. A ton of shrapnel in the oil pan. Amazingly non of it made it's way to rest of engine - looks like the oil pick up stopped large pieces and oil filter stopped the rest. Engine is running great now....
Clean the little adapters that you are using to remove the dent with the hot glue with alcohol first, to remove any oils, or wax. Also before you remove the dents warm up the area with a heating gun first then pull it out
