Is there a way to tell from the seed if it's going to be male, female or perfect? I have a bunch of seeds from a wild Muscadine that I want to plant, but I don't want to have to grow all of them for years to dtermine which to keep.
I have SH muscadines. I like the tart muscadines better but the SH are definitely sweeter, and, I've heard they are self fertile. I can't prove that because of Cowart and Carlos among my vines.
I purchased this muscadine variety at Lowe’s last season. This season it is loaded with grapes and more than half way covering my cattle panel trellis. I can’t wait til August to get the full favorite, right now they are still green. I’m in zone 9A north Houston area. It survived our last frost just like the label indicated.
I just found Alachua at a Lowe's in NC on vacation. Going home to plant it in N. GA. Hope it is truely a Alachua. I had read big box store's muscadines are not always what they are labeled. Keeping my fingers crossed. 🤞
Grapes are botanically considered a berry as they are a simple fruit with seeds and fleshy pulp from a single ovary. Of course botanically strawberries and blackberries are not berries, go figure. Anyway, it is a grape. : )
Your videos are quite good, but I think this one stands out. I'm looking for the "best" variety for home gardening table grapes in s/w Florida. I've never tasted any of the species, but love all fruit. Definition of "best": -high disease/pest resistance -self fertile -fully edible, except for seeds -darker in color (polyphenols) -flavor, doesn't have to be super sweet, just not bitter or sour What one or two species would you recommend? I've heard a lot about Lane and Ison, but this one may be it based on your videos. Ripening in a staggered fashion would be a bonus. Very Best Regards, Tom Scott Author ● Speaker ● World's Leading Expert on the Corrupt U.S. Legal System _Stack the Legal Odds in Your Favor_ _Our American Injustice System_
Good videos, but I wish you got more into flavor and consistency, since that would be helpful. Very Best Regards, Tom Scott Author ● Speaker ● World's Leading Expert on the Corrupt U.S. Legal System _Stack the Legal Odds in Your Favor_ _Our American Injustice System_
Hello, just wandering if you are able to identify a muscadine variety by looking at the plant ... or is that only possible by looking into it's genetic makeup?
You can't look at the vine and tell much as the leaves all look pretty much alike. Some muscadine cultivars have berries that are unique enough to identify, but for many it is quite difficult. For example, Black Fry, Sugargate, African Queen, and Black Beauty are all very similar black colored fairly large female muscadines that are difficult to distinguish. So it depends on what exactly you are trying to identify whether you would need to do a DNA test.
@@patrickconner6532 Thanks Patrick. I'm in Australia and was given a cutting by someone who did not know what variety it was. It has yet to fruit. Mine is growing quite nicely and at least I should be able to narrow its variety down when it fruits ... hopefully it isn't a female plant as I currently only have the one plant. A nearby nursery is currently out of stock, they only offer 4 varieties because as you can imagine muscadines aren't at all common over here.
Early Fry is a female vine and will need a self-fertile vine to pollinate it. I recommend something mid-season or late to extend your harvest. Perhaps 'Paulk' or 'Ison'.
Thanks! I appreciate your timely reply!✨❣ I recieved my Fry saplings recently (In India) and had decent idea that Fry would not bear on it's own without a male/ complete partner. But the seller was reluctant and insisted that it bears fruits. And now I am left with this plant and no male plant in this part of the world. I actually also need thoughts if one can pollinate Fry with Thomcords? Will they?@@patrickconner6532
I need to catch up on a few and that is one. It is an interesting late-season muscadine but not terribly useful as it is low yielding, somewhat small, and soft with a tougher skin.
I have just found your videos and I am learning a lot. Thank you. Paulk looks like a really good variety. And Ruby Crisp looks very interesting. I did want to ask you...your vines and fruit look amazing. How do you keep the birds from eating and ruining the fruit?
I am just starting out to grow muscadines at home. Will be planting two vines. Main purpose eating and wine. I am looking at the Ison variety for black but can't decide on a bronze for the other vine. Any suggestions?
Most important for homeowners is length of picking season. Ison is mid to late season. I would plant Hall or Triumph for an early season bronze to go with it. Or if you want a bit bigger (but less) berries then Early Fry.
My only issue with these is it's a little more difficult to tell when they're ripe. I recently discovered the purple ones growing in my dog fence mixed in with some hedgerow trees. So looking for advice on how to encourage the wild delights of my youth to grow and produce better.
This is very helpful thanks! I have been clearing an acre of all males and when im almost all done ive found one female. I will try to propagate this and make it more civilized not as wild and weedy
I have seen neat and orderly muscadine plants in south Georgia, and now in your video. I should have done that but I was originally just going for a small PVC box pergola in the corner of my back yard that used quick-growing muscadines as the shade plant. Well, I'm in the second year of growth and I really have the growth...very thick, and now I see extensive production between the 3 varieties I bought and planted (too close together). Yeah, it's helter-skelter vine meanderings. I'm using a thin vinyl webbing for the vine support and it's held out well. My question: Is there a chance that, after harvesting in late August, can I trim back everything from the root trunk, curl and shelter (tarp) them from winter frosts, and then reroute these trunks for a more orderly array of vines and growth in the Spring for next season's production? Or are the trunks already set in the form that they'll always be from now on--unable to bend and pose very much? I don't mind removing the webbing, it'd be easy to snip out or replace in the winter.
You would have to wait until late in the season so the vine didn't bud back out again in the fall. They can bend for the first year or two, but it gets harder as they grow larger.
Hi, Dr. Conner, my Paulk vines don't show the red coloring on the new shoots and new leaves, which is a typical trait of purple muscadines. Is this normal?
What should be the main method of physical attachment for the cordon to the wire itself? Is it the tendrils from the vine trained to grip the wire? Or is the cordon coiled around the wire in a helical shape as it grows? I think I notice the coiling of the cordons in your videos, but I'm not certain.
You should tie the vine to wire with jute twine or plastic ties until it grips the wire itself. At first it will grip with tendrils. As the vine grows the side shoots will come out to both sides and these will balance it on the wire. Don't wrap the vine around the wire (although it sometimes happens) because as the vine grows it will grow into the wire which causes damage and difficulty if you ever have to remove the vine.
I'm really stumped. I'm trying to decide between this one and Southern Home to grow in my backyard in northern Texas. I don't care about the appearance of the vine as much, but would like something that is easy to grow (I'm sick of battling fungal infections and whatnot in my large garden). But I also want it to taste good and produce well too, of course! Do you have a recommendation, by any chance?
Both Southern Home and Southland are disease resistant and shouldn't need sprays. Southland has more aroma, a softer flesh, and a tougher skin than Southern Home. Both are productive. Personally I would prefer Southern Home.
Dr. Conner thanks for your insights on all these videos. They helped me choose Paulk and Ruby Crisp cultivars for my home garden. 2 years to harvest, here we go...!
Why no videos on "Black Beauty" & "Cowart"? The Ison website shows "Patent Protected #7267" on both (Black Beauty 23brix & Supreme 22brix). Same cultivar?
I just didn't get it done yet. Both Black Beauty and Supreme are patented varieties from Ison's. They are distinct cultivars. Both are black, female, large in berry size, and relatively firm with a crisp skin. However, Supreme is a bit larger and much more consistently productive than Black Beauty. At its best, I think Black Beauty is a sweeter berry, but then it doesn't produce as many, so there is more sugar available to the berry.
@@patrickconner6532 Which is more heat & drought tolerant? Hot & dry here. I purchased Paulk & Southland. Cowart was sold out. Would females have trouble pollinating in the desert? Of Southland, Cowart & Paulk, which does best in hot dry conditions? Which tolerates high pH Dolomite soil best? Looking forward to more videos.
Pollination of female vines require insects and so it depends on what pollinators are available. You may have trouble with cap stick in the females due to hot and dry conditions as well. I have no idea which cultivars would perform best in your conditions as we don't have anything similar in the Southeast.
Really loud hum on this video. A blue-tooth mic for camera might help sound quality. Enjoy your detailed videos. A video on strong flavored aromatic vines in the collection would be nice even if not released cultivars. Are there vines in the collection with more pungent aromas than Southland? Has anyone tried crossing (Scuppernong x Southland) for a wine grape?
Going to create both [ (Paulk x SouthLand) & (SouthLand x Paulk) ] hybrids. Then go high aromatic selections with high protein in skins. It seems to me that reducing canopy size by 50%, having twice as many vines & limiting fruit set would result in larger fruit, plus not over stress the vines. It would facilitate dry farming of the vines, which should also improve quality.
I just purchased 10 of these from Ison's. What other cultivars have strong muscadine aromas? I also purchased Paulk. Going to do an overlapping cane, double trellis, to facilitate hybridization. I'm attempting to develop a high vigor strong flavored cultivar for the Sonoran Desert. Suggestions?
One that has very pronounced aroma is 'Cowart'. It was a very popular pollinizer for many years, but fruit size is small by today's standards. Your setup will facilitate hybridization, but since both cultivars are self-fertile, the majority of your seedlings will be selfs. I would plant the seedlings close together and quickly rogue out the lower vigor vines. Maybe only keep the top 10% most vigorous. Check the pH of your soil and reduce to 6.5 if possible.
@@patrickconner6532Thanks, I might add Cowart. Which has stronger flavor Cowart or Southland??? Fortunately, I have 4 decades of self educated (hydroponics & agronomy) research & experimentation on many species. Unfortunately, in flood plane below 2 mines, one copper & the other lime. Soil will be first flushed with Sulfuric adjusting pH to halfway between pH of (Calcium Sulfate 7.4pH & Potassium Sulfate 7pH). Sulfate reacts to (Calcium first, Potassium 2nd, Sodium 3rd, Magnesium 4th) due to ion exchange strength preference. Any (Iron & Copper) which become Sulfate salts with flush at least 20ft deep before ion exchanging with Calcium Carbonate. Copper Carbonate precipitates. Iron Carbonate quickly becomes Ferric Oxide. Soil will then be flushed with (Citric Acid, Sugar, Manganese Chelate & Mycorrhizae), to 5.8pH. Citric Acid will make remaining Iron & Zinc water soluble & organic. Mycorrhizae & wild soil yeasts will turn sugars into Ethyl Alcohol precipitating any remaining Copper Sulfate. The appropriate amounts of (Urea, Potassium & MonoCalciumPhosphate) will be added to optimize for Vitis rotundifolia. TripleSuperPhosphate 5pH should optimize both apical root meristem elongation, as well as initiate lateral root branching from interior basal meristem of cambium due to Calcium producing Auxin transport proteins & catalysts. Some of the Potassium will be as Potassium Chloride to facilitate new lateral root elongation & hair root formation. First year canes will be planted 16ft intervals & air layered in the soil. Next year I will decide how many rows of trellis per row of vines. This is the desert with (6% to 16%) humidity & 114 days above 100°F. Going to keep each vine canopy as short cordons, yet with multiple variety overlap. It's windy here & going to be less than 2ft for cross pollination. Your candid thoughts & critical assessment valued highly! So please respond. Starting native soil is 10pH before the flush.
@@patrickconner6532 Which has stronger flavor & aromas, Cowart or Southland? Which is most vigorous? Most productive? Most heat tolerant? Most bird peck resistant? Most dry scar of the 2 cultivars? Size difference? Brix difference?
Birds are seldom an issue in muscadine due to thick skins. I think Southland is a bit stronger flavored. Cowart is bigger and a bit sweeter with a thinner skin (more highly bred). Productivity and vigor are good on both. Southland has a very dry scar, one of the best. I don't have an informed opinion on your soil remediation, but in general muscadine struggles as you move west from east Texas. Muscadines are insect pollinated and in nature are either male or female plants. Without pollinators perfect flowered vines will still set a crop, but crossing will be reduced. Emasculating is too difficult, but I would mark the clusters you want to use and in the morning when the caps come off I would take a cluster of your pollinizer and rub the anthers all over your seed parent to maximize cross pollinated seed.
@@patrickconner6532 Thanks for replying. Sounds like I want to cross Southland with both (Paulk & Cowart). Lots of great-tailed grackle here! Long sharp beak heavy hard pecking especially during our 20 year drought. Have become very aggressive to all fruit crops including lemons & pomegranate.
