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Use a rotor with a spindle tip runs along the window frame for a perfect cut every time. Have to take the window out of course. It's good to reseal them anyway
You people, over and over, keep talking about the cost, as if the purpose of the [SOLAR-POWERED] window-air-conditioner was to use it every day of the summer for 6 years, until it wears out, for a cost of , you say(I do NOT believe every panel and part breaks in 6 years)$6000, BUT YOUR MISSING THE POINT, AND YOUR PREMISE IS SKEWED[BECAUSE] YOU DON'T GET IT. IT'S FOR AN EMERGENCY COOL ROOM DURING AN EMERGENCY OUTAGE, [TO] [PREVENT] [DEATH] OR HEART INJURY DUE TO HEAT STROKE; NOT TO RUN IT AS PRIMARY AIR-CONDITIONING. WHEN POWER IS ON, JUST PLUG IT INTO THE WALL OUTLET OF THE GRID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have 600w panels on my roof they produce about 1.5Kwh per day on average. According to my victron charge controller. I have a smart electrical meter on a window unit and it consumes about 3.8 KW hours per day. On average some really hot days as much as 8 KW. You really need about 2,000 w for some kind of redundancy.
Another solid video, Just straight to the point with everything! We released a portable jump starter pack. Can we invite you to do a review? We have emailed for an inquiry.
This is overkill, you can get by with less solar (400 watts) and a much smaller inverter (700-watt Renogy PSW) if you are running evening (10 PM) to 3 AM. 200-300 amp hours of lithium batteries should do it. A cheap non-MPPT 60 amp controller (for $25) is nearly as efficient as the expensive MPPT ones. Just make sure you clean up the inverter AC output with a high quality conditioner (like Furman PL-8C 15 Amp, $185). Your 5000 BTU A/C will run quieter and last longer.
It is also important to know that the needle used in the study is a whole lo smaller than two fangs or a stinger going into you. Chances are high that the extractor is better than nothing.
How do I know what the state of charge is when fully charged. If I use a voltmeter for this particular battery? Should the meter say 12.8v to know if it’s fully charged ? Or is it a higher number
So I have a 2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE. My switch is working but the solenoid wants to stay in the "on" position. Is it normal for them to get stuck in the "on" position? It sometimes does go back into the off position. You thinking solenoid issue or wiring issue or fuse issue?
i checked my parasitic losses in our travel trailer, it was 300 mA. i disconnected both power leads to the am/fm/cd radio and measured 100 mA. that goofy cheap radio draws 200 mA when turned off! btw, it draws 700 mA when the radio is operating
You're literally like the only person that I've seen on RU-vid so far after like three days of searching. That actually went into detail and how to fasten the solar panel to the roof.
Noob question for inverters with hardwire options for higher loads. Do you need to wire in a breaker or can you simply wire in a an outlet with 12ga? I suspect it's always best to have a breaker in line when hard wiring.
Only problem I seen was your panels were not connected and added flow to the battery’s you could have been around 3hrs or possibly more… so slightly inconsistent testing for total time to really test the system.
