oh wow, I had no idea ACC rain was THAT BAD. Jesus, looks like toilet water falling from the sky. Moment of silence for ACC fanboys refusing to see the light.
If yall notice his projected laptime was better the entire time on the 5nm he was able to push the limits on turn in better. Its also why i use my high nm base at lower settings. Still gives me plenty of forces with the stronger motor, the snap, edge of grip loading and umloading on corners etc. He was able to turn in more and faster and able to push past that limit of grip if needed to get that bit more of turn in. When forces are high and you do that you lose traction easier from my testing. Peoope go oh lighter is understearry no turning in more and the car turning the entire time isnt understeer. Undrr steer is when you are turning in and the car doesnt want to. Its not when the car is turning in perfetly with you. If anything the heavier wheels had more undrrsteer even if he wasnt turning in as much because when he would go past that limit the grip would loosen a bit more so he physically couldnt turn in more aggresively. The point is he could place the car where he wanted and needed to better and faster due to being abpe to control the actual movement more. You sre physically able to feel the edge of grip more because all of that extra eeight isnt overwhelming the actual tire feel.
The predicted lap time was lower because of the order of the laps, i guess i drove the 5NM lap last. I am fastest around 8-12Nm depending on the wheel / car / sim.
@@SimracingPC I do think 8 to 12nm is the sweet spit anymore then that and it hurts you. But I still beleive 8 to 12nm on a 20nm base feels better then an 8 to 12nm base. So the benefits are there. The speed, response, snap and just feeling of torque in the instances when needed is just better. So believe me I'm not stating that torque doesn't hsve benefits because it does. I've found I drive fastest around 8-10nm. I can feel the edge of grip, can push further while turning in and can even push past the limit to just lesrn and find My edge. I believe we should be finding the limit and edge of grip not jsut the center forces of our wheels. Helps you with control and undrrstand the car for sure.
Bit of a dive bomb but space was there. Then yellow turned in. Then yellow unsettled on curb. Penalty to ocon, (I am saying person in dive bomb at fault as he initiated the whole incident
Proud owner of the new dd+ just a beast of a base even better then the dd1 was after all the updates so imagine a year from now? Like its insanely good. Im surprised seeing all of that detail in the dd1/dd2 pretty good. Fanatec has really gotten down that center torque feel also which helos control ans edge of grip feeling also feels less understeery.
This is the best thing fanatec has ever made besides the bmw wheel. Also dang that dd2 has some detail now after all of those updates. Not as good as the new dd+ but def way better then years ago.
It is amazing wheel, i tested my friends! Saving money for usb version! Rock solid, in reality it looks way better and feels sturdy, ergonomic are perfect and i tried a lot wheels! You can drive wirh or with out gloves!
Its the best wheelbase ive used in a while beat my simagic 15nm alpha out right. Felt better, better grip percetion, better fine detail, better speed. Just is such a good feeling base. Its much stronger also its peak values reached over 22nm for me and its holding torque actually was around 15.5nm. It felt much stronger then my simagic 15nm wheelbase. I think anybody buying tje clubsport should seriously think about getting the 15nm bevause its like the dd pro getting the boost pack. The difference is that big. I know many dd1 owners who now own the dd+ as its a much better wheel. The dd1 is to slow, it has dead spots with ffb. Just isnt as good. This wheelbase reminds me of asetek and simucube had a baby at 20-25nm.
I have a tehnical question. If your base it set a 20nm and the gain is at 50%, you theoretically run at 10nm, but dooes the game can still have peak torque that goes up to 20nm (crash, curbs etc)?
I play ACC with an Asetek Forte 18nm base set to the full 18nm, 54% gain and 30% damping in game, 100% dynamic damping, all wheelbase damping off. In ACC I get some momentary clipping in very intense moments like going up the Eau Rouge or through the Foxhole in Nordschleife. It's fine as it is, but I wouldn't increase the gain much from here. So having torque headroom is really important if you want both strong and precise FFB. If only one or the other is enough, then it doesn't matter IMO.
Yea and this is why I set me base to 60% I do not do 100% like they say to. I just don't enjiy it especially when the new dd+ its constant forces are heavier then any other 15nm base ive felt before. Setting it to 60% and then raising in game works best for me. Just my preference and opinion. 😊
@@reviewforthetube6485 Theres probably no hard putting it at 100% but I do it to prevent strain. I owned a T300rs and found out it had cooling issues, but it never happened to me as I never set it to 100%>
@@karlallen6055 thanks for letting me know, I just received the Forte button box and the comfort+ wheel. Still waiting for my wheelbase to arrive next week. I should have just ordered it straight from Asetek because their shipping is so fast.
@@MikaTarkela I got mine through Upshift in the UK, they were fantastic. Not sure what wheelbase you had before (fanatec DD pro for me) but this thing is crazy. On the Asetek site they have recommend settings for ACC, I tried it tonight and the worlds strongest man would have struggled to turn a corner 😁 Just to let you know it won't work with WRC out of the box, I found a fix on race department. But after going into the settings in racehub there is a patch to apply which was way easier. As I said the only problem is the rev lights, they work on every other game. Hopefully you dont have to wait much longer🤞
I've had 2 CSL DD's but they both broke down after a couple of hours. Have a Moza R9 now and it has been reliable, nothing wrong with it. I'm going to sell the CSL DD when it comes from repair and probably selling the Moza as well because who needs 3 wheel bases lol.
Are you using the wheel plugged into the Asetek QR directly or just using the QR with no electronics and plugging the wheel into a USB hub? I thought P1 used the dual USB cable.
Hello, thank you for this idea. I admit that I don't have much feeling on my Invicta pedals with this installation. Do you have any settings you could recommend?
You can see my settings used in the video in the article linked. If you are using the invitas you might just screw the TT25 directly to the pefal plate.
Thank you for your quick reply. I didn't know that I could screw the TT25 directly onto the INVICTA pedal. Do you have a photo or a plan and what I use to attach the TT25 to the pedal. With the original TT25 support? LAST do you think it is relevant to also install a TT25 on the accelerator? Thank you for your answer@@SimracingPC
@@federicoquiles4022 I think you need to come up with some kind of adapter to make it work. I don't have a Invicta Pedal set here at the moment. For the throttle its up to you, might be worth it for some kind of TC effects.
My friend got wireless version, and my thoughts that it is great rim i was correct. I liked it a lot waiting for usb version to have ability to map buttons on simhub
screen with a bad refresh rate :( need dashboards with low low low refresh items to avoid laggy effect like this. 500ms for a simracing usage is quite high sadly
When stepping on sand and grass, there seems to be no change in the vehicle at all. If the physics is high, it seems that you should show a demonstration of a formula or a race car instead of a regular car.
I just recently found out about this game however it looks very cool and I am super excited about it! I hope that we might get some public beta testing this year!
