The numbers in this video are .004 (intake) and .008 (exhaust) in inches. If your gauges are metric, then it would be .08-.14 mm intake and .17-.22mm exhaust. Thanks for catching that! I should have included both inches and metric.
great idea!!! debating on using this idea on my keihin carbs on my honda shadow. do you have a problem with it going in super easy before the bike is warmed up?
That is one of the problems that I had with it. There is nothing holding it out, but the spring is pulling it back in. So I had to hold it out while starting the bike and keep holding it for the first few seconds while it warmed up. That is why I also had to disable the clutch sensor--so I could start it without pulling in the clutch and free up my left hand. I guess with some tinkering you could make it stay in/out easier. Thanks for watching!
I watched 3 videos about this and all 3 said to center the "T" while my manual says to center the line next to the "T". You can definitely feel a difference in the turning of the crank between the T and line. The engine actually moves off the line to the T when you let go of the socket. I think the difference between the 2 positions is important with such tight tolerances. Now I am more confused. I guess I'll go against the manual and center the T instead of the line since no one has reported a problem.
When you do do adjust your valves, please text the measurements at both the line and the T and report back. I would like to know if there is a measurable difference since everyone seems to have the same question. Thanks!
There is a major problem !! The significant wear of the valves occurs at the seat in the head and the contact point with the valve itself. When this wears down the valve clearance gets SMALLER. The .004 for the intake and .008 for the exhaust is the MINIMUM because of the wear in the seat. If you set the valves at the minimum your bike will SOONER get to the point where the wear causes the clearance to disappear, at which point the valve will stay open and burn up. It is better to adjust the valves from the average UP to the MAXIMUM. In your case .006 to .008 intake and .010 to .012 for exhaust. Doing this will give you 2 or 3 times the mileage before damage occurs due to TIGHT no clearance valve. Do not exceed the maximum. Above the maximum another problem developes with noise and the top of the valve gets mushroomed from the spike load from the adjustment screw, caused by the sudden ramp up. Think of it like if you took a hammer from 1 inch above a nail vs a hammer blow 6 inches above the nail.
DO NOT turn the engine clockwise. That can damage the cam chain, cam chain guides, and tensioner. It is designed to ONLY turn counterclockwise. With the spark plug removed it should not turn too far when using a ratchet, since there is no compression. The little mark on the flywheel is useless once you understand what is happening. With the valve covers off, you want the engine at TDC on the compression stroke, with all the valves closed (I have no idea why Suzuki used 4 valves and 2 spark plugs, 1 spark plug and 2 valves would have been better and reduced complication on what is otherwise a very simple bike) When both valves are closed, they can be adjusted. Turn the engine over several times and watch the valves to get an understanding of what is going on. The valves will remain closed for several degrees of crankshaft rotation. Watch them closely, then turn the crankshaft just a little more before adjusting the valves.
Thank you for an excellent instruction and your timer. counter clockwise, counter clockwise, counter clockwise, counter clockwise, counter clockwise, ????????? LOL
DR650.com says to line up the horizontal line, not the T. With the bike in neutral, get a 17mm socket onto the nut inside the magneto cover cap and turn the crankshaft over slowly counterclockwise until the horizontal line below the 'T' on the magneto rotor is central in the timing inspection hole.
I have no internet where the bikes are kept so ill be bringing my DR into the living room (again LOL) to follow your guidance on my laptop. Thank you for putting this together
I would be happy to, but I don't have access to a dr800. Should be similar though. Most jetting kits will include pretty detailed instructions and include phone help if you need it. Thanks!
Those Phillips heads are not standard Phillips head screws, they are called JIS( Japanese industry standard ) and are actually different to normal Phillips head screws, that’s why you will notice that they get damaged when you use a normal Phillips head screwdriver, that’s why in the pro cycle jet kit they supply you with 4 stainless steel Allen key screws to replace them, pro cycle is definitely a top notch performance kit, they also supply 3 main jets, a 145, 150, 155. Along with a tapered needle which is great, In Australia we are paying at the moment $119 for the pro cycle kit, we’ll worth it and is a kit that will give your bike a lot more go. Basically it’s a high performance kit. Hope your sigma kit goes well for you.
i noticed you never put the O ring back on the top of carby, that will be an issue big time, i was going to buy a sigma kit but it does not come with the parts the other kits do, you get what you pay for. Do yourself a favour and buy a pro cycle kit, top notch kit, bit more expensive than the sigma but well worth it, dont forget that O ring. Also the original screws on the mikuni carby are japanese , we call it a phillips head but its a different screwdriver called a JIS (japanese industry standard) very similar to the Frearson screwdriver thats why it damages the screws on the mikuni carby. sometimes a little dot on top of the screw will mean its a JIS. In the pro cycle kit they supply you with 4 allen key bolts to replace those stupid JIS dodgy screws. good luck.
At 11:37 you are missing the small rubber O-ring that goes in that round port (exhaust ports as u call it) to the left of the screw hole on the top carburetor diaphragm screw hole. (Near the base of your pointer finger) What that kit doesn't give u a new needle or main jet.... THAT'S THE WHOLE POINT of a jet ket lol
Johnny Turbo yes, I realized that when I found the tiny oring after putting it all back together but before putting it back on the bike. All good though. Thanks!
It turned out well but I don't ride the 650 as much anymore. Usually take my DRZ400. I am just running the stock pipe on it with the rearmost drain bolt underneath removed.
Jaetheo, just wanted to say thank you for this video and for answering questions in the comment section. It's been years since you posted this but it's a treasure. You're a class act. Thank you so much for the beautiful tutorial! -Rob
Thank you for the compliment! I am always happy to help out another biker! I have more videos in the works, but I am horrible at finishing projects so they may be months or years before I get around to them :)
