Just a dude who loves cars and motorsport. Come hang out with me and let's just enjoy cars together!
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**All modifications are done at your own risk and are shown merely for entertainment value
The old film did its job and saved that paint. I'm going to try to remove a 17 year old 3M bra I had installed off my car this weekend. I tried a 4" corner and said there has to be an easier way. I will try your method.
**NOTICE** If you purchased the small handheld steamer that was used in the video (link is now removed) and also linked in the description, please know that there is a recall notice on it. I have put in the description an alternative link to another steamer you can use in your project. Please visit this page for more information: www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2024/BISSELL-Recalls-More-Than-3-Million-Steam-Shot-Handheld-Steam-Cleaners-Due-to-Burn-Hazard
Was wondering if you recommend to replace the crush washers? For the front diff drain bolt, I've used both a copper crush washer and aluminum crush washer and it still leaks a bit. Not sure if there's another type of crush washer I can use.
Replacing crush washers is always recommended because its a cheap insurance for leaks (a few cents). With that said though, I don't replace crush washers if everything was fine, and many many others do the same with no issues. Check your torque settings on the bolts to make sure you torqued it down enough. Not sure if there will be a difference between aluminum vs copper. But I can be wrong. Make sure your surface is clean of debris and if you want a little insurance you can always try adding a very thinnnn layer of RTV black for some extra sealing. Make sure you read the instructions on curing the RTV.
Thanks! Yeah it was not fun lol. My honest opinion on PPF is for a majority of people, avoid it at all costs. These things are supposed to be replaced every like 3 or so years. to avoid cracking and the adhesive degrading and ripping off paint. If you cannot afford to do that, don't get it. Also PPF will give your car "tan lines" over time as the exposed parts of your paint will age/fade quicker than what's covered by PPF. This is my opinion.
@@HazardGarage Just bought 2017 SS Camaro 50th, has PPF all over the place, that's what brought me to your video, it's already pretty milky looking and coming up around the edges, so I'm wondering what I should do next. And how much money I'm going to have to spend. And I have to admit that the Film did it's job, many places I can see if its wasn't there my Paint would have been damaged. Anyway thanks, great Video!
Congrats! I forget these cars are 20 years OLD! But if taken care of, they definitely have potential for crazy longevity. Good luck on your build and thanks for checking mine out!
I put 2 spacers with steel wool on my Maserati Gt with the v8 and it only went a week. I think it burned up the steel wool when I was revving it hard. I’m about to try the mini cat. Smells like a refinery behind the car but the exhaust velocity is really high it blows mulch and rips grass out of the ground so it might need 3 spacers.
I dont know if the mini cats helped. For me it was just playing with the distance of the spacing. But really more modern cars are bit more sensitive so its a gamble. Frustrating, I know..
yeah the space is suuuuper tight even when i lifted the engine up (although the more you can lift it, the more clearance you'll gain). Get some 1/4 rachets, sockets and extensions. The good news is the torque spec is only 4.7 ft/lbs so its relatively to loosen the bolts. Then use your fingers to get it all the way out as you'll lose clearance as the bolt moves out and your tool wont fit.
bro please I need help, on mine it’s literally brown it’s 22 years old, mine only has it on the front, I paid 50 dollars for this 3M remover thing I got from the paint store.. it did NOTHING and I don’t want to use the heat gun my dad has.. do you have any tips I can do without damaging or scratching my car before I go out and buy different kinds of removers?..
sorry for the late reply. steamer is the safest way to add heat but I can understand a good steamer is kind of pricey. The steamer I used was super small and light duty so it took longer. you can definitely use a heat gun. Just apply heat in a sweeping motion for like 5 seconds at a time on low setting. You only really need to just warm up the PPF to get it to loosen up. Don't worry too much as to melt any plastic you'd have to let the heat gun sit in one spot for like a minute or two. If the adhesive is still too strong after you heat it up, heat it up for like a few seconds more until you find out what works best. this will not be a quick process regardless and damage to paint is still possible (especially on plastic because paint isnt as strong on plastic as it is on metal parts) even if you do everything right. This is why I am super ANTI-PPF because you are supposed to replace that crap every few years but no one ever does. Good luck!
@@HazardGarage no worry’s! thank you so much i appreciate it a lot :) I’ll definitely try to do that, it has spots I need to touch up anyways so mabye i shouldn’t be to worried about the paint, again, thank you so much!
so there are different modes available that are dependent on if there is a resister applied or not. You'll see on the board its labeled as "A B C". By default there should be a resister soldered on "A B and C" That the instructions found on the product description page as "001" 1 denoting no resister. By default it should be "000" as in resisters on all 3 spots. You can always contact try returning via Amazon and get a replacement. By default from the factory it should only play once.
bro I almooossstt installed it with a badly seated gasket. Would have sucked! Definitely take your time seating the rubber gasket and definitely pay attention to the diagram in the video that tells you the proper RTV placement. Remember RTV takes some time to cure before you can torque everything down. It comes out as like a gel, you let it dry per the instructions, then it becomes more rubbery, which is when you torque it down. If you torque it down too soon or run oil through it, you can definitely leak. The RTV should have instructions, make sure to follow them! Good luck!
Thanks man for the description, I'm definitely going to read the instructions better this time. Let the RTV dry before torqueing I didn't know that, thanks. I think it is also complicated to place the joint perfectly with so little space but that clearly takes time. Thanks again! 👍
Bleeding the clutch and keeping the fluid fresh is just as important as the brakes IMO, especially in a car that's driven hard or tracked. Apart from anything else it's the same fluid (same reservoir) as the brakes so could tend to contaminate the brake fluid. It is admittedly a PITA but worth the trouble. A Mityvac pump makes it a lot easier
not really on the MaxPeeding rods unless you take out all the preload but then youll be bottoming out the shocks. You should be able to go lower with the Meisters but you still will hit a limit. That is why they make specialty coilovers for those who want to slam their cars.
Before I bought my first 06 fxt, i already had bought another engine for it. Just expecting it to blow up anytime. Ready to replace it with forged internals build engine.
Car should NOT be running. If your car has a cable throttle, then you can just manually open the valve with the car off. On cars that have a drive by wire, I think there is a hidden method dependent on the car, that will open the throttle with the car still off.
Your install seemed pretty easy. I have bought the exhaust and have not got it installed yet. Due to my local subie dealer selling me the wrong gaskets and throwing me off for i need
yeah the gaskets were weird. I was given some generic ones and for a while was like why were they not fitting! Hope you get yours on soon! It sounds sooo goood
@@lenc3717 The muffler to the mid pipe uses a ring "crush" gasket. The only way to get it is to order the "hardware kit" from subaru. I think the part number is: D441SVA040.
@@Retro8itmods haven't had a chance to rip on them too much yet, as I am waiting on getting tires, wheels and alignment sorted. But on my test drive the "standard" settings was definitely stiff. I turned them down to full soft for the street and its perfect. Will turn them back up when I go to the track.
It turned out great!! If I didn't see the video I would not have been able to tell that this was with a spray can.. forget the haters clear coat costs$$ and the prices today are crazy..
