@@debrad5783 manifolds are fine unless they're cracked. It's typically a reaction between dissimilar metals that causes seizing and corrosion, but sometimes attributable to good old rust (salted roads or off-roading that never gets cleaned). Most OE gaskets are one-time use but some can be reused if not damaged during disassembly/reassembly. In this case the studs just erode or weaken from corrosion.
hi, I have a 2008 RRS, if the diesel indicator goes below the half tank it goes off, I don't have any bing or alarm signals on the dashboard. If I have a full tank of diesel this doesn't happen. Could you help me thanks friend
@@jaygold4467 Change is not destruction. People make changes because these rigs are fully depreciated and worn out, and owners want it to feel comfortable for their style and preferences. The value here is not in the Winnebago but in the Toyota 😉
This is still a problem in the 2018 Land Rover Range Rover supercharged. I gotta say, you’ve got to be shitting me!!!! They haven’t addressed this problem? What a PIECE of crap this make is. It’s my wife’s car, so it’s my problem. I’m not taking any panels off this thing. The manufacturer Must be trolling us. They just want outrage at this point. This is BY FAR not the first problem this thing has had. My wife’s Volkswagen had problems but this thing is worse! Hard to even imagine that could be possible
@@sp00f34 LR is definitely not a manufacturer of perfect cars, but I sure am fond of their vehicles. My fav is the L322. Better than the L405 IMO. Sorry you've had rotten luck with yours. As the saying goes, LR's been making mechanics out of owners since 1948 😅
@@BrianBarnettTX Well I'm pretty sure most of them break down. Which is a sick joke and perhaps a scam so people have to spend 7k at LR getting it repaired. It definitely has a reputation for being a broken pos. When I told someone we was getting a range, they said, well most people dont have good luck with them- theres a lot of problems. AND the stereo is a joke compared to my escalade but the LR costed more.
Any idea what part number the seal is that seals the glass with the track? Mine is leaking and i wanted to replace that seal but can find the part number i already orders the wrong one lol
@@ELDELACHEVY93 you might call a shop like Rovers North to verify you get what you need. Here's a link with diagram... www.roversnorth.com/category/989_land_rover_discovery_ii_sunroof
Right, that front clip cradles the engine. If you pulled those four 18mm bolts out completely, you could (after disconnecting a few more things) remove the engine from below. As the engine comes down with the front clip, the exhaust comes with it (if you disconnect the mid pipe, then just the manifold comes down with the engine and the rest of the exhaust could stay in the car)
Oooh i get what you're saying. Thanks. How low did you need to go. its fairly tight. I am doing this exact job but on the ground. I wish i had a lift like yours!
@@pleb2dev605 you only need to drop the clip 1-2 inches. That will earn you enough clearance to get tools in and twist the rack out. If you pull the bolts all the way out, I'd suggest threading it back in a couple turns to keep the front clip/subframe suspended and lined up. Might be a trick to line up the bolt holes if you remove the bolts and support the clip on stands (though that could get you a lot more wiggle room). It'll take some time and patience, but it'll come out. Be careful under the car!
@@BrianBarnettTX I finally got the rack on. The way i gained a ton of space that made things really easy what to remove the 2 18mm bolts on the back near the exhaust manifold. and let the bracket hang and jack up the engine. That gave me so much space it was like butter removing the rack and reinstalling everything. Not fully complete but i really appreciate your video and your support. as an electrician i tend to get myself into sticky situations. This video was great to act as a guide. Thanks!
@@DonJuanMessi ouch. Whenever I see Navigators on the road, I still think "man that's a handsome car!" And I quite like the interior still (aside from the ridiculous rear infotainment and the lag in turning off the stereo when you start the car.) But the dependable GM 6.2l makes our switch to the Yukon completely worth it. Same fuel economy, and it does wicked burnouts 😅
I'm replacing my head liner soon on my 04 D2 with fabric, but throwing out map holder, the look terrible, not a fan of the spray on bed liner , on broken off plastic studs jb weld will fix once cured strong bond
@@jamesray3920 after having done spray, I'd do fabric next time. You can get good deals on headliner from JoAnn Fabric stores if you have one near you.
I found topographic Map I'm going to use for headliner comes in black or tan I haven't made up my mind yet I just pulled down headliner I'm also planning to remove carpet do a deep cleaning I just bought this 04 D2 very disgusting it's like it's never been cleaned
Thanks for this video, im hunting a late 70's sunrader and this is likely something that we'll end up doing. Anything you would have done differently next time, apart from y'know.. not doing it atall.
I'll probably have this one ready to sell this winter. It's too short inside for me to keep (about 5'11" ceiling). If I do another I'll probably just swap in a 3/4-ton axle or maybe just build a custom Ford 9" and utilize single rear wheels. I'll probably finish this one as a solar/battery rig and ditch the traditional genset and mounted propane tank.
@@BrianBarnettTX Im surprised its so short in there, I've never heard that issue before. Is there any aftermarket flooring in there? If you were in Canada I'd be very interested in this thing.
You have to run the generator for the appliances to work? I assumed when the engine was on it would power everything on As well. Can solar panels be added to keep everything on for full time living?
@@kmoreno8278 yes the appliances require 110v, so generator or shore power. The water heater and water pump operate on 12v. Solar can be added to power 12v fixtures and charge the battery. A power inverter would allow the solar production to be turned into 110v but still requires batteries for a place to hold electricity.
you usually break the other side and the whole rim just pops off. The old tube had a tr150 valve stem which was hand bendable, those are nice especially when you dont need a perfect 90 degree stem.
Ooh that's interesting. Thanks for watching and commenting. My cluster is going out, giving me the same seemingly random errors about half the time I get in the vehicle. In my mind, a single gauge going out on an electronic cluster is out of ordinary, though that's what my tachometer does (goes dead) when these errors pop up. Key off and on, back to normal. Please update me when they find and fix the problem!
I just had my fuel pump and sending units replaced on my 2006 LR3 yesterday at the dealership. However, the truck is back at the location because my fuel gauge is still not functioning. My instrument cluster is working fine, but the only indicator that's not working is the fuel gauge. I am currently waiting for them to inspect and fix the issue.
Well Brian, this was a very quite a job. You really took some time to give very good detailed information. I appreciate that you showed the parts on and off the vehicle. Very helpful. Thank you, very much appreciated!👍👍👍
As much as it bums me out to get rid of things, I've got this one sold. He paid 2 weeks ago but hasn't picked it up. Maybe I should issue a refund and do something with it 😅🤷
Ha, yeah, remove the home part of it, and you're left with a homeless motorhome 😅 Essentially a cab/chassis with the cab cut open like a can of sardines.
Thank you for the video, the return cooling line sprung a leak on our 2008 Volvo XC90-v8 model. the hardlines section that sit's on the sub-frame started seeping where the line is clipped into a plastic line bracket, the plastic bracket actually wore hole through the aluminum line.
Correction regarding the B-Pillar to A-pillar. Online diagrams show 39". That is correct; from the forward edge of the quarter panel to the A-pillar's fender bolt holes. I previously interpreted this to mean the face of the B-Pillar to the A-pillar's fender bolt holes.
@@BrianBarnettTX The dealership installed both heater hoses for me ended up being the right decision cause that comes with a 3 year warranty, and the next year the plastic connector/elbow at the front of one of the new lines sprung a leak again.. They need to stop with the plastic but also I think the thermostat on these are set too high. I think a 185F thermostat would be appropriate but yeah would eventually break again.
Agreed. The consumer would definitely pay a few extra dollars to have stainless or brass etc instead of plastic. Here's a brief write-up by Summit that helped form my opinion on whether to change thermostat temps in newer cars controlled by computer nannies... help.summitracing.com/knowledgebase/article/SR-05284/en-us#:~:text=If%20you%20hang%20around%20car,lower%20temps%20that%20do%20it.
@@BrianBarnettTX Well this write up talks about if it makes more power, so I think they are in some cases almost removing the thermostat all together. I just want it to open sooner If it can hit 195F and stay there I think the plastic would last longer and that's when API-SP Oil is at it's optimum running temperature.
I need one of you. I bought 89 Toyota dolphin it was rebuilt in 2006 inside and the engine. I’m still learning about it. I wouldn’t bothered it would’ve been gone. Want some small changes.
Very helpful video! My 1970 Torino has a neutral safety switch on the shifter itself, and it is malfunctioning BADLY!! It is working sometimes, and sometimes not. Then it will work in park but not neutral, then neutral but not park. Can I retro fit the selector shaft type switch onto my C4? Right now it has a red plastic cover that moves with the shaft as it changes gears. CAN I RETROFIT THIS TYPE OF SWITCH TO MY CAR?? In other words do all C4's have this keyed shaft? The switch in the car has the same type of plug.
Technically yes a switch could be rewired on the transmission instead of the column. Optimally a replacement switch is the best fix. Those column-mounted switches function the same way, but for some reason cost 3X as much. In the interim, you could jump the circuit with an alligator clip so it would start in any position, or put a toggle switch in-line, but either of those options may interfere with the reverse lights.
Thanks for this video. Ordered my y connector from Amazon and had it installed in less than 20 min. Recommend packing the hoses with shop towel before breaking up the rotten plastic connectors so bits don’t fall into the system.
excellent tutorial! No need to buy the extra spacer, just remove the one spot-welded to your old switch, like you did. And yes, usually it is the little bent tab on the rheostat coil which goes bad. I've had a couple switches where they had just broken off. Inside, those mid-1960's FoMoCo light switches seem to be made quite stout and beefy; I found some of the copper contacts (for the high beam circuit) with some discoloration, meaning they had gone through some excessive amperage in their past - despite the integral circuit breaker! Other than that, all I've dismantled over the years usually were perfectly fine after 50-plus years. You might want to add some relays for low and high beams in the future, eventually, but that's up to you.
