Thank you Jesse. I’ve been offline for a while getting the wife through optometry school. But she’s finished now. I’ll be doing more videos here shortly, on my S10, Passat, Trailblazer, and etc.
I haven’t yet got the Honda. Its about $4000 with tax and etc. I ended up retuning to Costco. It had a gear oil leak. Now I have a piece of crap. I’ll baby it for a year or so and complain about it more.
Pros: The engine boasts impressive power, effortlessly throwing snow to long distances. Excellent control and drive system, making operation a breeze. Easy engine start-up adds to user convenience. Well-designed main parts and components enhance overall durability. Cons: Adjustment was not made before delivery, requiring proper adjustment of cables to prevent potential failures. In my experience, the control cable slid off the pulley, causing the driven gear to get stuck at 2. Unfortunately, revision was impossible due to cable slackness. The shear pins are standard nuts and belts, which may not break easily. However, this resulted in the shaft mount breaking eventually. I recommend replacing the shear pins with true shear pins of the same size for improved performance. While it requires some capability for adjustments, overall, this machine is excellent.
Gracias mi amigo. Tu vídeo me ayudó mucho con mi CRV 2008. Lo hice yo mismo y fue un éxito. Mi mecánico me pedía cambiar toda la parte y con solo cambiar el empaque fue suficiente. Me ahorré mucho dinero. En mi país estos repuestos son muy costosos. Saludos desde Costa Rica 🇨🇷👍👍👍
Id change out the oil when doing this, I did mine today - roll back 3 days prior- i got check engine and code. Removed solenoid - cleaned gasket filter and solenoid with brake cleaner. So i thought today id change the oil and put in a new solenoid gasket. Well after only 3 days the gasket i cleaned was full of crap. So prior to fresh oil, i used engine flush. If your getting a blocked filter on your vtec solenoid its a clear sign to change filter and oil. Absolutely NO point changing gasket without changing oil also. So today i had fresh oil in a flushed engine with a new gasket. Definitely good practice to do this. Also going forward im going to change out oil every 8 thousand miles.
I watched the whole thing to see exactly where you ran the extension cord to the back, and you didn’t show that part! Above the door? Below the door? 12/11/2023
I did this, still same code. I replaced the whole solenoid new with new oil pressure switch fresh oil with new oil filter, still same code. Idk what to do next.
going to attempt this job soon, i got all the tools except torque wrench, so im goin to do a gentle torque as in this video. Thanks its one of the best videos out there for VTEC solenoid work.
Unless you don't care, go exclusively with factory parts. I've seen videos where they compare aftermarket parts like these to factory once and the aftermarket ones have fitment issues (too small etc)
What kind of symptoms did the car have before you fixed it? I was driving my car and my dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree and then my car started jerking and it wouldn’t go over 30 mph.
I have a 06 Acura TL with 3.2 vetch My car drives fine until you get to about 30 and try to gas on it. That’s when check engine light comes on and my vsa and vsa on symbol. My code coming up is a p2647 which is saying my vvt solenoid is stuck on. You can try to just change the screen and filter and CHANGE OIL and oil filter when you do. If that doesn’t fix the problem it’s most likely the whole unit which has the solenoid and oil pressure switch. But that is around 200$
When such code is displayed by the vehicle computer, not always assume you have a dirty filter , chances are your oil pressure switch is bad , even if you install a NEW unit don’t taken for granted is ok , it happens to me put a new Vtec unit in my ELEMENT and didn’t fix the code …. end of the history ? Took a switch from a Honda thrown in the junkyard and worked perfect and no code 🤷♂️
Help. Has anyone solved this p2646 issue ? I see also that there is a leak around my engine. I recently did a valve adjustment for my 08 with a new cover gasket. Then 3 days later I’ve got that same code. Could it be possible that dirt got into the engine while I was doing the valve adjustment? And got the vtec valve clogged? 168k miles on my car.
My brother only 8 foot pounds if you do 10 foot-pounds it is too much pressure on the gasket and it will start leaking after about 10000 to 20000 miles to get longevity after gasket it is recommended to only do eight foot pounds and try to have a torque wrench and it is best for you not to remove the heat shield lots of times the bolt 🔩 on the heat shield snaps, just trying to give you a heads up my brother. Very nice video I like it thank you very much
Maybe I’m special on this one. But can anyone confirm if this is the same for 4 cyl Honda accords 2003-2007? Same engine hoping it’s the same part and procedure
Very bummed. Replaced the whole assembly as the screen was clean. Still not the issue. Car bucks at around 2500 RPM while in gear. Doesn't do it when the revved in neutral.
Where is the oil drain bar? Is it on the left of engine with the little orange plastic screw on cap? Do I tilt the unit sideways to drain out all of the oil? Please advise thanks
You should probably put those carriage bolts on the chute from the inside out, so the smooth end is on the inside of the chute so the snow slides by instead of getting caught on the bolt end and nuts.
I just changed that filter assembly two days ago. Don't bother taking the heat shield off. Just undo the three bolts. I didn't even disconnect the plugs. I swung the spool valve onto the exhaust manifold, cleaned up both mounting surfaces with brake cleaner and a towel, then replaced the filter assembly (gasket with screen) and put it back on. Do not use any sealer of RTB, and do not overtighten! The bolts are supposed to be torqued to 8 ft.lbs., which is basically hand tight and about a half turn. If you tighten it too much, that's what flattens the gasket, and it will leak.
Pro tip: leave that first small bolt on - it only holds the heat shield to the solenoid chassis. Just remove the three lower bolts and then you can easily remove it after you disconnect the wires and remove the whole thing. Really, I think you could just leave the heat shield on for this, though I didn't. Thanks for the video!
Great video I figured I found where the drain plug was because it looked exactly like the one you unscrewed, same with the side where the overflow plug is as well. My question is is there a transmission filter? If so I’m guessing is behind the black box to area? (2020 Kia Sportage SX-T) What’s the point of doing it three times? I’m guessing to get most of the fluid out of the system?
