Hi, what happens if the the machine is not heating with the on button but when I press the steam button I can see it heats up on the PID. I tried the reset button but it didn't seem to make a difference. I couldn't feel any click or reaction from the button when i pressed it
Thank you for this brilliant video. My pump intermittently stops working after a few extractions. This only happens from time to time and goes away once the machine is turned off, cools off and is then turned on again. Could this be a defective pump? Or something more serious?
Depends how old is the pump has it been run for long time and overheated. it sounds as bad electrical coil on the pump. It needs a new pump in this case.
Update, finished surgery ok😎, have a good tip use a flat blade cutter when starting to get it going then use the plastic pick so you dont chip the paint under-on the glass
Do you happen to know how to fix/replace temprature probe of coffee thermoblock on steel duo pid 2019? Mine got trouble e02, found out what it is but no info how to fix it. Thank you.
Just installed mine following your video. I'm usually very cack handed at anything like this but your excellent guidance helped me get it installed. Thank you. 😊😊
This is a best case scenario, the hardest part is separating the screen, if you can do that then the rest is relatively simple. Before you go and buy a battery, try and get the screen off first. I spent over an hour trying to do this following all the instructions but to no avail, in the end I finished up cracking the glass.
Thank you for the close up on the small post attached to the back of the frame where the battery attaches to the terminal. Ive watched many videos showing that you have to gently pry up where the battery inserts into the terminal but did not know about the battery "post"! 🇨🇦
Hi, unfortunately I did not film the repair process. It requires new heating element, boiler gasket (O ring) and heater O rings. The machine boiler needs complete disassembling, cleaning, descaling and replacement of the above mentioned parts, After that it is like new.
Excellent presentation. I installed a simpler version (no steam control) of the Auber PID on my Silvia about 8 years ago. It worked fine until last week when the PID display didn't light up. The boiler still heats, and the water pump functions. When installing the PID I placed the relay behind the front face plate of the Silvia. Now, upon removing that plate I noticed that the when the machine is on the LED lamp on the relay is not lit. In your opinion, does this indicate a problem with the relay? Thanks for your attention.
It is not safe to use metallic tools to remove battery. It can puncture battery casing and cause fire. Please use only plastic tools or better give your iPad to professional service company.
Sir, great video. Can you help me out on my silvia. About a month ago I replaced my steam valve assembly because it was leaking. But about two days ago I noticed that could make foam on milk and my steam seems to loose pressure, it takes about 1 minutes 46 seconds for steam light to go off. Once I start my steam (6oz) it won't make foam. After 30 seconds of steaming my light goes ON, no foam yet on milk. Once it reaches 50 seconds pressure drops. Once it's at 1 minute it sounds like blowing air only,, I also feel the steam warm and moist. Its about the 50 seconds that my milk temp reaches 160. Can you guide me on what it can be? I did checked my heater and was reading (19-20 Ohm). My brew and hot water seems good.
Hi, the way to get strong steam is keep the heater heating, you should not wait for the light to go off. After switching the steam button wait around 30 sec. then open the valve and drain the water from the pipes in an empty cup. Close the valve, wait 30 sec. and start fronting your milk and it is very important to keep your right hand on the valve and slowly keep opening it because when the valve gets hot it expands and closes, reducing the steam. During this the heater will keep heating and producing strong steam, you just need to controlling it with the valve.
@@dkaraboy Thank you for your reply and advice. Today I did what you advice me to do, but same issue with pressure loss. I ran just steam by itself and after the first 10 seconds you can hear steam gets weak. I do have a video that I recorded but not sure how to send it to you. I also opened the front cover and see if there is any leak during steaming from valve but couldn't see any. Again my brew and hot water are hot around 120 and increases rapidly to 160. Any other advice? I would appreciate it. Thank you
@@erlynlopez9731 for me 1 min is enough to finish frothing the milk, try smaller volume. Be sure before switching the machine for steaming that the boiler is full. If it is not or you are steaming too long you can destroy the heating element on your machine. Check also if the tip on the steam pipe is clean, you need to unscrew it and check inside and flush it.
@@dkaraboy I want to say I found my problem. During my steaming prep I noticed that water was leaking from return tubing to tank that connects to OPV valve. Once steam was ready as I started, I noticed steam coming out of my OPV return tubing the steam was really hot, Not sure if that's normal, so I clamp the tubing and noticed foaming. I want to say my OPV valve seal needs replacement. I believe that's were I am loosing pressure during steaming. Because this issue just started couple of days when I contacted you. Can you confirm that their shouldn't be any steam leaking during steaming process from OPV return tubing. Also thank you for all you help, I really appreciate it.
@dkaraboy Sir, it was the OPV seal the issue. I rebuild the seal,spring and orange and issue was resolved. After I made replacement, and checked and no more leak and milk steam great. I want to say it took about 30 seconds and I had good foam. Thanks alot for all your feedback.
Sir could you help me diagnose my problem please? I think it could be either the heating element or the brew or steam thermostat. I have changed the safety thermostat but the problem still persist. The machine overheats very quickly to the point that steam comes out of the group head. I pulled the boiler apart and there was no scale build up or corrosion, the elements looked very good, however I can't see the top of the heating element as I have the same model as you, (it is welded to the boiler) but judging by the condition of the bottom I highly doubt there is a hole or crack. So I think it could be one of the thermostats. But to be sure I am going to buy a multimeter and test the heating element and see if this is the problem. Could a crack in the heating element cause it to get hotter and hotter? I would think a crack would not heat up at all. Also there is no tripping or short circuit. That's why I think it could be the brew or steam thermostat that is causing it to overheat? Thanks
Hi, you need a multimeter to check the heating element as well for the thermostat to test it is it opening the circuit when the boiler gets hot. When the temperature is low all thermostats are closed, then around 100 C the coffee one should open, the steam is 145C and the high limit is 165C. But be careful when testing the heating element and the thermostats, unplug the power and disconnect the connectors from the tested element. Also be sure the boiler is full with water to the top.
@@dkaraboy Thank you sir. I did exactly as you did in the video and set the multi-meter to resistor and the heating element reads 48 and the ground test reads 0 which means there is no crack as you explained. Awesome because that is expensive. I then checked the brew 100C and the steam 140C thermostats and I get no reading which means they are blown. The multi-meter is set to resistor the same setting I checked the heating element. Or is there a different setting to check the thermostats? Thank you again for your help
@@Marco-bh9im 48 Oms seems to much for me, also when you are checking between the heater connector and the body of the boiler the multimeter should stay an 1 if it shows "zero" it means short which is not good. The multimeter should be set to resistance or continuity/diode test.
@@dkaraboy Sorry, correction, the reading is 1. between the heater and the body of the boiler NOT zero. The Multimeter is set to resistance. Ok so 048 ohms is too much? I have recently read that 64 is acceptable? What about the thermostats, they all read 005 with multimeter set to resistance. Are the thermostats good? Thank you again
@@Marco-bh9im if the thermostats were cold (les than 100C) it means that they are in closed position and it is Ok, you should test the coffee one (with the red dot on top) when the boiler is hot around 100C it should in open position - multimeter showing 1.
Rancilio makes a great machine, my only gripes about it are the drip tray is shallow and it sucks, needs a drain or to be bigger, the water compartment needs to be bigger, and the steam wand take forever and a day to open! To be fair, the steam wand has commercial power and it pulls a great shot, I don't like the strange positioning of the portafilter, more a fan on the gaggia classic honestly.
