I am so glad I happened unto this video. I am rebuilding a clutch on my '47 B that someone else did several years ago. That person did not insert cotter pins in each of the T-Bolts. If one of those bolts worked it's way back towards the first reduction gear it would have caused real problems...and expensive. Thanks again.
I rebuilt a 1939 b john deere when i was in my early teens back in the 1980s. I added a wide front to it just like the one on your tractor. Unfortunately i sold it in the early 90s when i went active Army. I should of never sold that tractor. Now i have a 41 b that i do a lot of farm work with.
@@mksonmor I hear what your saying we all have ones we shouldn’t of sold a 4240s is one I should of kept , good to hear your using your 41 B on the farm regards David H.
Seven years on amd all model A's snd model B's haven't changed a bit. Great information David.i wonder how this tractor has been running since the restoration. Maybe you could show it working. What a thrilling sight that would be. Cheers from New HampShire 🇺🇲✌️
Hi thanks for the enquiry, it’s pretty much the same as it was when I did the last video of it which is a shame , the new workshop has been completed and new projects have been started but this has taken a back seat , I asked a friend to do me some cad diagrams of the pinion boss etc but that never materialised . I have recently purchased a Bridgeport mill which will help to fabricate more parts . It needs to be kick started again so watch this space as they say regards David H . I wouldn’t care it’s the most enquired about tractor project I have !.
@@kamahoo451 Hi there’s an email address if that’s any good though just put in bigg red brake company on google and it comes up . Email is :- calipers@biggred.co.uk
Hi Paul the ML50 is a 18 mm spark plug for a plug hole of 18 mm . Is your 1938 B an early or mid style model ? I’ve seen both blocks and from memory they both take the same size plug be it champion , NGK etc . So I guess from what your saying your block is tapped for 22 mm if that’s the case you may be able to get a 22 mm to an 18 mm reducer . What ever size it is it’s advisable to gently run a plug tap down the hole to clear any carbon out of the bottom run of threads . Are you UK or USA based ? . Regards DAvid H.
Hi Paul , it’s the recess in the head that’s the problem , once the plug is screwed in the hex of the plug is to tight to get a spanner or socket on hence why the hex has to be shrunk down a bit . I did wonder about milling the recess out a bit but have yet to try that also there’s not a lot of metal to play with . Thanks David .
@@oneminutefarming9521 I do See the recess on your cylinder in the video did not notice that first time around. My 1938 AR has no recess so the KLG plug should work with no modification on mine?? The engine runs great on stright gas with a little tow. But starting the old girl with the flywheel is no fun.
At about 2:33 time on the video I can see a “shield” screwed in with three screws inside the grill area. What are these and where to get new ones? Mine are missing. Thank you sir.
Hi , I believe it’s to help distribute the drawn air more evenly through the radiator, bladed fans tend to pull air , depending on the pitch of the blades , to their left or the right . I have tractors with and without this deflector and seen no problem cooling wise , but there again I’m not going out and ploughing for 12 hours a day . It’s part number is B1766R there’s several on EBay . You could make it , it’s only 1/16 plate I could measure it up if you want to go that route . Regards DAvid H .
Hello, I have a cast frame BN on steel wheels that I want to go through. Where did you get your piston rings from ? I also need the 3 clutch springs, which fir in the pulley/clutch because one was broken. Thanks for the videos
Hey dunno if this account is still active. But I have a 1951 john deere model a that needs a oil filter head, I have a filter head off of a model b and gonna try and make it work, but was wondering if I could get some help. On how I can make it work?
Hi Scott yes I’m still active thanks just had a break from it all while I build a new workshop. Had a look at this in my parts books , top and bottom is I think it would just be easier to find another model A filter head . They are totally different between the late styled A and B . I looked on eBay and found two late styled model A filter heads green backing has one , they are out there just need to track one down 👍.
@@oneminutefarming9521 well the piece I got was a gift from my grandpa. He gave it to me to put on my A, I'm trying to get it running with what I have so my great grandpa could see it run before her time comes, but without this piece. I can't start it or run it and I really can't afford the piece that is correct. So I'm kinda just rolling with what I have lol
Full series and enjoyed it very much. 66 years old retired and sold my business'2 years ago. I owned a Transmission shop Paul's Transmission & Repair Inc Baker City, Oregon. You and Daniel have got me hooked on these 2 cylinder tractors. My Tractor experience is a 1950 John Deere A styled got the thing going after sitting for years'. Right know I am working on a 1938 AO.
Hi Paul , hopefully by painting inside as well as outside it keeps corrosion at bay , certainly the inside looks as good as the day it was painted . It’s done some hours now , road runs ,harrowing etc .👍
Hi Paul pretty much as you’ve suggested remove the crankcase cover fight your way passed the crank shaft best you can remove the two pipes on top of the pump undo the three nuts holding the pump into the bottom of the crankcase and it should fall away , don’t loose the square coupling on top of the gear drive shaft , they’re hard to come by , though saying that I think Steiner possibly list one .fighting passed the crank may be the hard part to remove those pipe fittings , it’s a while since I did one so can’t be to sure how easy it is , getting spanner’s past a model B crankshaft for what ever task is not easy Lol. Best regards DAVID .
Hi Paul you tighten the three nuts when you’ve got the rest of the clutch assembled ie the clutch folk and the hand clutch lever . Tighten the nuts evenly until you get a nice click and lock out as you cycle the hand clutch back and forth . As the clutch wears you’ll find that the hand clutch becomes lighter in use to the point where it won’t lock out , then all you need to do is give the three nuts a turn too restore the click and lock out again . Remember to lock the nuts with split pins , I’m guessing what your calling Carter keys ?best regards DAVID H .
Ola muy buena esplicacion tengo un jhoon deere 830 lo compre desarmado la parte de embrage pero tiene mas discos y algunos de hierro y nose como armarlo me puede ayudar?
Hi you need to tap the bottom of the nozzle with a small tap from a tap and die set for a bolt size you have , screw the bolt into it and gently pull and twist it will evenly give up the fight and pull out , soak it in penetrating oil too . The nozzle will be destroyed but if it’s that tight the holes in it will be blocked up any way , you can get replacements from various places Steiner are good .
@@oneminutefarming9521 thank you. I just went and got a tap,and a bolt that fits it,two nuts that are too big,and a washer. I have a complete rebuild kit for carb. You are a life saver!
Thankyou , there is more to come about the A I’m in the process of getting my workshop up and running at present with a video in the pipe line for that regards DAVID H
Hi Delayp , best I can measure it’s around six inch long and 5/16ths in diameter it’s quiet tightly wound made of 16th inch wire hope that helps regards DAvid H.
Hi Matthew, in the light of day I personally would say it’s more red oxide in colour . I think you will have to get to late styled A and B and numbered 50 and 60 onwards etc before the colour changed to a dark yellow not 100 percent sure though ! Thanks for the subscription and comment regards David H.
I have a 1946 b. Serial 197201. I can't describe how much your videos have helped me. I appreciate what you're doing. You're videos will help people for years to come!
Thanks Jay , glad to hear the videos have been of help , as said previously the videos are and were made to help like minded folks keep these old tractors going best regards for the new year David H.
Hi. I would like for you to give me specs if possible for the lower pedestal bushing on the John Deere B tractor (mine is a '52) as well as the material it's made from. Does this bushing have to be hardened/tempered after fabrication? Or, would like to buy your old lower pedestal bushing of which you removed from the John Deere B so I can have a machinist use as a template. Please let me know your thoughts when you get this message. Thanks in advance.
Hi Marc , so so sorry not picking up your comment / request sooner , if it’s still relevant to your rebuild the bush I made was a tight fit to the pedestal housing not too sure of the specs and about 4 inch long it was all a bit bespoke really , the material was a quality piece of hydraulic cylinder tube and was not treated in any way after machining . Truth be known the bushing was more of a means of directing grease to the bearing and the bearing was in fact what holds the spindle in place . You asked about bush removal and your right it does come out from the bottom , if I recall correctly it was very tight to drift out using a long drift from the top . You would be very welcome to have the old one but I think it went in the scrap bin . I’m about to start moving the my old workshop to the new one very soon so should it surface it’s yours 👍if still interested. Its a worth while upgrade the steering is very light in use . Again sorry for the late reply regards DAvid H.
Hi. I would like for you to give me specs if possible for the lower pedestal bushing on the John Deere B tractor (mine is a '52) as well as the material it's made from. Does this bushing have to be hardened/tempered after fabrication? Or, would like to buy your old lower pedestal bushing of which you removed from the John Deere B so I can have a machinist use as a template. Please let me know your thoughts when you get this message. Thanks in advance.
