We are a small group of friends who love racing and have a severe sickness of building cars! We follow race events and a lot of local racing to the central Minnesota area. We may just have a couple on the team right now but we have a big group of friends with the same passion we do. Subscribe and follow us on our journey!
Unified Racing Team
Brad DeChantal - White Nightmare (2000 Civic Hatchback) Eric Kelm - Brompton Cocktail (1992 Talon ) Adam Sypnieski
It does not work with a cheap aftermarket alternator. The alternator is not machined to fit between the lower mount. Don't even bother to try. I had to grind the alternator mounting to be able to make it fit.
How do you put it back in? I’m struggling like a MF. It won’t go back in unless I remove the oil filter housing. My alt won’t go in. I got mine from O’rileys. I don’t know if that makes a difference. I shaved the mount and everything 😢
Bought my top for my ap1 from eBay. Had it installed by a professional for 300.00. Looks great after two years. OEM top was over 2,000.00 plus installation
A quick question, I know this is a 3 year old video, i finally got the alternator in but I am having a hard time getting the bottom bolts back, the ones on the top line up perfectly, but those bottom bolts will go in a little ways and then I'll hand screw them to a point and they just keep turning. Please advise?
@@acexayaphet786 Personally I think you should consider the Jase. This 3 Piece in my opinion seemed to have a lot of unnecessary fabricating to get on and I wish I would've went jase but just like everyone else I was trying to save a buck and ended up regretting it. Can't blame anyone though because racing is financially stupid but we love it lol
I removed my old alternator by cutting plastic from intake manifold but still kept the nipple without fully sawing it off. The plastic nipple is where the engine cover bottom right corner snaps in to. I also cut 1/2in from connector that’s on the alternator that sticks out. Then I removed the alternator. I had to sand down bottom right and top left corners from new alternator at least 1/16th. So that I had enough clearance for the OFHG (top alt.) and also allowing bottom side of alt. to slide in to place easier. I did not have to remove a/c compressor Or metal bracket behind a/c compressor. I made sure not to sand off too much so that the new alternator fit nice and snug. I used a rubber matter to line up the alternator bolt holes. I did not have to cut connector from new alternator. Took me 1 hr to do this job without removing intake manifold. 2014 f30 n55
I really cant thank you enough for this tip. Didnt even have to remove the chagepipe and without sawing the part of the nipple itd take like 20 minutes to replace. Great vid. But I must point out that its a T60 for the belt tensioner. You probably removed the plastic cover for the tensioner pulley.
Thank you, I was going crazy because I didn’t want to take .my car to a dealer shop, for alternator that look so easy to remove . That’s for saving me money Great tips
