FOR COMMISSION WORK : Please contact my email: Tranduy12396@gmail.com
I shipped worldwide via DHL,Fedex,.... I can buy a kit and paint it for you Well hello there! I'm Duy, a plastic modeler from Vietnam. I enjoy building, painting, weathering, and filming the process of my models My channel is about all the painting techniques and weathering techniques. I will show you guys which paint I used, which technique fits the best, and I'm really into Color Modulation technique. If you want to learn some new techniques and maybe get inspired for your own projects, you've come to the right place. I hope my video will inspire you guys in painting your own model.
This video came across while surfing RU-vid…..honestly it is a magnificent job, building and painting…I didn’t notice the wrong sequence of the color on the scheme until someone pointed you out…but except for that, the whole techniques you used throughout the process are amazing…Great work 👍👍👍 Watching from 🇮🇹
Same reason that they do that to the early 2000s Land Rover Discovery. Keeps the sun glare off the cowling from blinding the pilot. Yer, not a pilot I am guessing.
I just bought my 1/48 Shinden and I will tray to follow your painting scheme. Have you primer your model befor you apply the preshade? If so, wich type of primer did you use? According to your method, you are mixing lacquer and acrylic paints, is it safe and won't get no future degradation or painting peel offs? Maybe are silly questions to you, but I'm just starting this hobby and I want to learn. Thanks in advance
Godhand only broke if you cut parts directly from sprue. The only safe way to use God hand is using pair of cheap nipper to cut the parts from the sprue. But keep the nubs on the parts itself. Then use godhand to cut that nubs. Because the godhand blade is too think to handle pressure when cutting directly from the spure.
Alot of what I call newer modellers bash the ole revell kit but not me. I love this old kit as it was part of what got me excited about modelling. I remember back when I was in the 5th grade I'd been given this kit and it was the 1st kit I decided to take my time with. I looked forward to getting home after school to work on it planning out what I was gonna do next. To this day that old box art with Ira Kempfords 29 roaring across the beachhead still stirs the imagination. Love what did with this old kit the bird really looks outstanding.
My all time favorite aircraft. I've built this kit twice and would easily pick it up and build another. Great kit....shy on details (because you can see up through the wheel well on the Bearcat but over all awesome. Nice review.
It's a decent kit. The cockpit detail is not much, but then you can't see much through the closed canopy. Two areas to watch out for: first the front cowling to fuselage. If you're not careful there can be a step that is hard to remove. Shim it or whatever if it doesn't fit so that you don't need to do so much filling and sanding. Second area is the wing/fuselage join. I had a large gap, so I solved it by adding a piece of sprue inside to "spread" the fuselage so the fit was better. Good luck!
This is a nice build and I like the faded paint job and oil work. I suggest a product called EZ Line for rigging antennas. It can be stretched very far and is in scale for 1/48 and 1/32 if you get the small diameter thread. However, if you do want to continue using stretched sprue, here is a tip: stretch it very far to keep it in scale. Also, if it sags, light a match and let it burn for a few seconds, then blow it out and hold it under the rigging that is sagging. The residual heat will cause the plastic to tighten up a bit, usually enough to straighten. Don't get too close or it will melt right through of course. I'd practice on some stretched sprue taped between some wood blocks or whatever.
There's this concept called overdoing it. I believe you've interpreted the Yamato as she lays at the bottom of the ocean. Given the imperial navy's significance of Yamato and Musashi, and the pride in which the sailors would've taken in them, it's doubtful she would've ever looked as "dirty" as you've interpreted her.
Growing up in the '50s & '60's getting a new model box to built the next WWII fighter/bomber was a huge treat........especially in the cold winter months. Sometimes my brother and I both got a model to build. Our dad served in the AAF in WWII and he would sit with us and tell us stories of the airplanes we were building etc. Such a solid time to grow up.........
Given this Shinden's life from manufacture to war's end was merely a few weeks, was Japanese paint so poor that in just a few days the aircraft's panels became so unevenly faded, and how did so much grime accumulate so quickly on this new, prototype test aircraft?
You do a good job . But all the weathering its over the top . The IJN pilots had alot of pride in there ships planes etc, at the beginning of the war . And yhey wouldn't have allowed there planes to look that bad . Maybe by the end of the war they would look like that . Give them some better credit
Disappointed Hasegawa chose to again (same as their venerable 1971 mould) depict the underwing bomb mounts as moulded in in 1/32 rather than separate parts. On a positive note however, this time there's an arrestor hook included. Couldn't believe absence of the arrestor hook in the original kit, not even crudely moulded in as if retracted. Much improved in many aspects fortunately. Pilot figurine sculpture quality, wing cannon fairings, 13mm nose MG butt projection into the cockpit, finer moulding of the wing MGs, nav, tip and tail light transparencies, aileron rod fairings, cowl MG openings, engine exhaust assembly (prayers answered), gear inner doors now correct, operating links now separate (not moulded into wheel well) and realistic, cockpit transparencies with more frame definition plus more. Debating whether to go with this or the Tamiya Ko/Otsu? kit for my future A6M5 build.
