The designer (Daniel Weil) points out that the purity of the pieces’ shape is reflected in the way they are held. And until you hold them and play with them that is hard to explain. The simple nature of the knight is the very reason I bought the set. It’s my favorite. I bought a separate Knight just to keep on my office desk. It’s a very distinct pleasure to hold it. Here’s a link for additional information around the design you should check out: www.designweek.co.uk/issues/march-2013/daniel-weil-redesigns-the-chess-set/ All the best.
Spead the inner coil of the spring so it will stay in the little knobs ,easy peasy. I did it first oil change , havent had to touch it since and no grease in my engine.
from the functional perspective the pump will most likely work, it is alternating current (AC) therefore no negative or positive, it will be live or neutral. From the safety perspective is a big YES, it does matter.
I wired the pump like you did and it worked fine. I have a Kenmore 110 washer. I checked the machine connection and it was 119 V on the multimeter either when the washer was manually set to pump or cancelled in standby. When ever plugged in the pump connection had power. The rigged power wire had 120V, the machine 119 all the time and pump did not go. What gives? Thanks.
Just for those reading this who are inexperienced... unless you know well basics of electrical safety DO NOT make your own extension cord adapter with a 120VAC outlet, even with the switch you could easily injure or kill yourself or start a fire. At the very least DO NOT connect or disconnect the cord from the pump while the cord is plugged into the wall, even with the switch off.
I have the same issue with my Samsung Flex Washer Model WV60M9900AV. The tech tested the voltage of the drain pump and it was a correct voltage and said the board was not sending the correct voltage. I replace the board via ebay (since it’s no longer manufactured by Samsung) but it still not draining. When I turn on it makes a sound and there’s a delay and stays in the 11 minutes. When I run the diagnostics it stops at 7 (draining cycle) and shows the SC code. Do you think I should replace the pump and cut the connection and plies the wires together?
I'm not a KLX owner yet. Still doing research on it. But watching everyone laying the bike down to change the oil was a bit disheartening. You just restored my interest. Kawasaki should give you some free stuff for posting this excellent share.
Yes, very poor design. Just FYI, I only owned those bikes for about a month and got rid of them. They are very heavy, poor components, unsafe handling, and the 230 had a very high idle that can’t be fixed (spent lots of time with dealer technicians). So high that the exhaust pipe near the manifold gets red hot. Been riding KTM and Husky XC-Ws and TEs. 250/300 2-strokes. They are phenomenal. An XC or TX is a good alternative but I don’t like the close ratio transmission as much as the wider ratio. We lots of trail and technical riding and the 4-strokes are just not near as fun or as easy to ride. If all your doing is checking the water in the back 40 or riding fire roads then it would be fine. But if you want to have fun and have a bike as nimble as a high end mountain bike you should try an XCW or TE. 2020 or newer have the better mapping.
@@purtnearperkins Thank you for this valuable insight. I was on the fence with this bike brand. Reading this (among other component failure/known design flaws that they keep on making and selling) has just nudged me off the fence. I really appreciate you taking the time to share this information and your first hand experiences.
@@findingneutral just an update, with the new model year they change the idle (at least on the dual sport) to where it is lower. i have around 700 miles on it and i’m loving the 230s! i am also not an enduro rider and do light to medium trails
HOW/WHERE do we get a power cord to connect to the pump? It’s not like we’re all electricians and can make what you made. No appliance repair shop will help me.
If you’re talking about the welder it’s a great machine. I’ve had the 212, 250, 251, and the 252. All great machines. I’ve had the 252 for a while now. It has a better duty cycle than the 212 and can weld 1/2” vs 3/8”. The 252 is a fantastic machine if you can get one. It’s a true blue, tried and true machine.
Is there a name for that type of external power cable you used? This is a great video. I’d like to test my pump before I spend $100 on a new one. I’d prefer the plug with the switch on it too, so that it doesn’t turn on as soon as I plug it in.
@@kennyrichard1167 I think they are called spade connectors. They clamp onto what ever wire (lamp cord) that you want to use. You can get them at Home Depot, or any ace hardware. Just take the pump motor with you to get the right size. Crimp on with a pare of pliers.
I would like to buy that chess pieces from Chess Baron but the ratings from Trustpilot bothers me. Are yours in good quality after a few weeks/months of use?
Agree - it is pricey. I found it on a classified ad for a reasonable price. I will say, however, that it is very solid and very well built table. If space wasn’t an issue I would have just made my own table. But, I don’t have the space and this is the best built folding table I have seen. I’m very pleased with it and do a whole lot of fabrication and welding on it.
Thanks for sharing that's the issue I am having right now the pump only works intermittently. For example ND error code will pop up and when I press the start button it will erase the code and the pump will work again and that continues to be repeated over and over again with almost every load. Did you find out the issue? I was thinking maybe the board?
Did you figure it out, was it the control board? I replaced my pump and I'm still having issues. It works fine for a load or two then just all of a sudden says it's not draining. I stop and try to start again but it still won't work. If I disconnect the power for a bit, try it again and it works just fine...for a bit. I'm guessing when I disconnect the power it's erasing the error memory or something and that's why it works again.
You’ll like it. It’s a sweet set up. And I love the M390. Probably my favorite steel. Holds an edge and sharpens easier than the S90. And the blackout look just has the cool factor.
One wonders how much money changed hands for this artless design FIDE endorsed. It's just a rip-off of the classic Staunton design with a minimalist knight. A huge scam, like all modern art.
There was actually quite a bit of thought and reflection put into the design of this set - going back to the original design of 1849 and maintaining a classical design. The heights of the pieces reflect the facade of the Parthanon. The designer (Daniel Weil) points out that the purity of the pieces’ shape is reflected in the way they are held. And until you hold them and play with them that is hard to explain. The simple nature of the knight is the very reason I bought the set. It’s my favorite. I bought a separate Knight just to keep on my office desk. It’s a very distinct pleasure to hold it. Here’s a link for additional information around the design: www.designweek.co.uk/issues/march-2013/daniel-weil-redesigns-the-chess-set/ The good thing is there is a plethora of Staunton designs and iterations to choose from. They all, I suppose, have their own uniqueness and there is certainly one you can find to appreciate. All the best.
@@purtnearperkins With respect, all classic Staunton pieces from the C19 reflect the profile of the Parthenon's pediment merely on the basis of descending piece heights from king to pawn on a sloping line. Nothing remotely special or unique about that. It is a cynical marketing scam which exploits ignorance by invoking the Parthenon's classical architecture as some kind of provenance. What a load of BS people buy into. It's laughable really. Granted, there may be tactile advantages in speed chess, but I can't help feeling this entire thing was driven by the usual suspects: the money men.
@@AntPDC that very well could be the case. No surprise there. It is a nice set to play, however. I did buy a copy cat version that probably came from India. It is just as nice a set (as well as durable) for a fraction of the price.
@@purtnearperkins Good for you, I suppose! I'm tired of the exploitation of innocents in the hands of greedy companies. No doubt the knock-off set you got from India involved the exploitation of poorly-paid but skilled Indians. Depressing really. Modern slavery springs to mind. BTW, I'm not remotely a communist ;)
Agreed. I got rid of those bikes within a couple months and we’ve been riding KTM/Husky 300s and 250s XCW and TE ever since. Will never look back or own a 4 stroke dirt bike ever again.
You bet! I find it helpful too when you can see a side by side. I love the 1600. Sometimes I miss the 1200 a little when I’m doing lots of small cuts and having to turn the head a lot for mitre cuts because it is significantly lighter to lift. And the 5/8 blade is nicer for tighter radius cuts in the verticals position. But still, no complaints about keeping the 1600. They are incredible saws in a fairly compact size with awesome mobility. Which one did you decide on?
@@purtnearperkins The 1600 due to me having a dewalt portable band saw in a table I bought from SWAG tools. I have more need in the horizontal position than the vertical, especially for my upcoming exhaust fabrication on my crawler. The only crappy part is the saws are back ordered but only until mid May which is ok. I'll get the saw I want and not have to deal with settling on a Chinese copy or sub par unit. Thank you again
I’ve really liked it. Really like the M390 over the S90V. If you try a custom order you can’t get the blue aluminum lanyard insert so you have to do the swap if you want that look.
@@purtnearperkins If we forget about the blade and hardware swaps… which would you get? The CF or the aluminum? Why would you make your selection? You can only have 1 in my scenario. Thanks for your opinion.
Side note… I have the 535-4 (aluminum) and am wondering if I should get some CF scales from Flytanium or something. Is the weight reduction of the 535-3 vs 535-4 noticeable in the pocket? The aluminum scales are quite hard when my hand is in the pocket and I feel a corner edge of the scales if I go to grab my phone or wallet out of my pocket. I know the CF isn’t soft like putty, but I wonder if it feels “warmer” to the touch and just a tad more forgiving when your hand brushes up against it while in the pocket (the aluminum is solid as a rock)? Maybe there is no difference and it’s just the shape of the bugout scale? I have a bigger Spyderco Para3 LW and for some reason, it feels like it carries better in the pocket. Not sure if it’s because it’s fractionally lighter than the 535-4 or if it’s the scale material or what. Anyway… thanks for your feedback!
It’s definitely a preference thing. But I kept the Carbon Bugout. Weight is definitely noticeable. I like the ultra light feel and the Carbon is very rigid while maintaining that “soft” touch warmer feel. I also bought a carbon Osborne as well because of how much I like the feel and weight of it.
