I don’t have a bill of materials, this isn’t a build like that, this is all custom, I decided on things last minute, change things if you read the comments through the video you’ll see that I change things many many times, even what’s in the video isn’t all what’s there now, I kept a lot of what’s there it’s most of it, but again the comments say all of this. I don’t have a list like that, I ordered so many different things. I wouldn’t even know where to start. I’ve tried seven different MCU boards, and configured every single one, I’ve tried so many different of every single part different motors, different drivers different power supplies, different everything wiring everything, but what you see in the video is what I did end up using in the end for pretty much everything except the external 5160 drivers on the electronics and the external power supply, I increase the size to supply power for heat, and then I changed it on the motion system new motors, new belts, new hot end, new carriage, it just went on and on for months
Hey bro know this ain’t an airgun video but I wanted to drop by and say Thanks for subbing man even though I don’t have much on yet going through some stuff but hope to talk more with ya Chris and hopefully things get better soon for the both of us bud. But thank you again & the Zeus in my profile pic was build I just finished but ain’t got to take it out yet maybe soon but either way man your cool people bro and you make good honest down to earth content bro. You ever need a drug free hard working man willing to learn and relocate I’m getting my life and finances in line to move next 6-9 months or sooner possibly! But either way I can tell by watching your vids we share bunch of common interests so enjoy bs’ing with ya
Yea man a person interested enough to watch your videos but then say hateful stuff that’s wild man. We need to quit trying to poke at one another and focus more on lifting each other up. I’m sorry to hear about your mom brother. I’m currently going through similar circumstances with my mother she’s had a stroke recently and suffers from mental illness and I am a recovering person 20 months clean after years in the bottle after my daughter being murdered but you know what I work my ass off and I’m a totally different person then my past but still get judged occasionally and it’s wild man. But thank you for your videos brother keep your head up and I’ll do the same. In my prayers man.
@@Alloutairguns I literally could not agree with you more! Not if I tried! There’s no need to be making negative comments, it’s just people are so miserable. They want to bring people down with them! They literally sit home and watch RU-vid all day just to criticize the people that take their time to make these videos, and I don’t do this for money! I do this to reciprocate for all the others who do it that benefit me! That type of attitude is something that people like that will never understand! Anyway, I appreciate you, brother
@@Cjsairgunscarsandmachiningyea man the worlds so crazy and people are so messed up I rarely even associate with anyone around where I live my friends are the other guys out there that share the some of the same interests and views on how to go about life in a positive mindset and treat people the way you’d want to be treated. Anyways keep your head up Chris and I’ll see ya on the next one! Later bud.
@@Alloutairguns it’s a shame because there are a lot of good people out there, genuinely good people! The problem is there are so many bad ones that it hardens us, and it is more difficult to see who is good and who isn’t because the good ones are so tainted from dealing with bad
So I know why mine was doing it with the 35 caliber, they were a little big for it. The magazine is not very deep. So you can’t use heavy pellets, slugs you can use heavier because the weight is so much more compact, I generally use 40 grain 25 caliber, but I could probably go as high as 50 but with that weight it won’t give me the velocity I want.
Can you explain to me what you had to do to your LESHYI 2 when you were having trouble with the magazine rotating when firing it because mine shoots a couple shots then stops so I have to open the gun and rotate the mag by hand.
Yes, of course, so it could be a number of things, it’s either the pellets or slugs whatever you’re using or not being pushed all the way down and the metal cap for the back of the magazine is not flush, or it could be your transfer port or your puck, if the puck is not seated completely interfere, basically anything that is not seated perfectly, is going to interfere with the indexing of the magazine, so check the puck, check the back of your magazine, make sure everything is completely flush after that, it could be the roller, have you done any modifications? Have you taken the rear end of it apart or anything like that?
@Cjsairgunscarsandmachining no I haven't it's all stock and original and I do push the pellets and slugs in the magazine deep so there all the way in the magazine so the metal cover goes on flush, and I do make sure the red puck is pushed in all the way and I loosend the barrel pulled it so it couldn't go no more and held tension on it while I tightend the screws. And my rollers look good not chipped or broken. Today I tried 30 caliber FX HYBRID SLUGS and it was the 1st and only time since I got the gun Friday I was able to shoot a full mag with no problems. When I was shooting the JSB 50 GRAIN pellets and the 44 grain HADES that's when it would only fire like 2 shots then stop and I would have to open the gun and rotate the mag or take them out the ones that wouldn't come out it's a real pain not being consistant.
I'm hoping someone will increase the temperatures to the hot end, chamber and build plate to print Ultem 9085. I think by pushing it it would be capable of doing this. In it's unmodified state I think the hottest filament it can print is PEKK.
Wrong printer! The materials that this is made out of, the plastic motor mounts, etc. it absolutely cannot handle those temperatures! I don’t know whether or not it could do it, you definitely increase the temperature but there’s a reason that they limit where they do, those temperatures are astounding for the price, I’m willing to bet you can’t find another actively heated chamber printer for anywhere near the price of this, I built a high temperature printer from scratch, and when I say high temperature, I mean 180 in the chamber, 220 on the bed and 550 on the nozzle, liquid cooled, fully insulated steel housing, steel frame large lead screws, large linear rails, that’s the type of industrial 3-D printer you need for those temperatures. These printers are under $500. You cannot use these materials with those temperatures, unfortunately
Is there a way to increase the temperature of the hot end to 420C from it's normal 350C setting? Triangle labs have nice wear resistant nozzles for this printer (and high flow rate as well).
There are ways to increase the temperatures, but as I said, in my other reply, there are reasons why they limit the temperatures where they do, the materials used in order to make the printer feasible to be sold at the price that it is, the materials used are incapable of going any hotter. If there’s aftermarket parts for this particular printer, I would be very surprised, hot ends from other printers with this company, particularly are not usually compatible. Maybe the nozzle, but usually the end is not compatible.
@@johnross4908 thank you brother, that’s nice to hear! I’m glad that people are enjoying them. If there’s ever anything I can do to help if you ever need some advice, I’ve been using that for a couple of years now so I’ve got some experience with it. I’m no expert really on any of this stuff, it’s just things that I do as a passion andexperience by doing it for an extended period of time, but what I learn I’m always willing to share. So if you have any questions, feel free to reach out.
The one on the scout? That’s a custom-made bipod, I can talk to the guy. I got it from him and see if I can get one for you, but he only makes so many, there are other models like it, but they’re crazy expensive. I paid 800 bucks for that, the other models that similar to are thousands.
The one on the scout? That’s a custom-made bipod, I can talk to the guy. I got it from him and see if I can get one for you, but he only makes so many, there are other models like it, but they’re crazy expensive. I paid 800 bucks for that, the other models that similar to are thousands.
You don’t even have to buy the whole barrel anymore. I figured out a way to make inserts that go inside the front and rear thread connections to the inner barrel, and you can put the FX barrel inside of those. Machine them to the precise outer diameter of the STX liner and the precise inner diameter of the scout fittings, that’s all you need, if you wanted to go further, you could do it yourself. I could even guide you on how to do it, but it’s going to be expensive like 50 bucks for parts and they will adapt to an STX liner.
@@wes1spence I’ve looked at those, they look like very nice guns, I just never ended up going through with one I liked the Leshiy better personally. It’s so compact when it’s folded up, perfect truck gun
yes they are, and because of that fact I was OK handing over $2200 for rear axles, but I was not OK with them failing catastrophically in under 1000 miles on a stock transmission! And no response as to keeping up with a warranty from the manufacturer whatsoever, they wanted me to leave my car taken apart for two weeks while I shipped things back-and-forth so that they could tell me some ridiculous reason that was my fault but they worked for the other 900 miles or whatever right up until then and all of a sudden, I did something differently in my parking lot moving the car so I could operate my heavy machine!? Literally moving the car is when it broke, totally no stress situation, it must have been happening for sometime because it was literally twisted in the shaft, it should not have happened.
You like what you like, but imo the new dodges are all garbage. 70s era charger is like my dream car, but I'd never invest in any of their vehicles past the 90s. (Not again at least) I had a "high end" model Chrysler 300 and it was total junk. Broken suspension parts, broken motor mounts, transmission crapped out, and a whole slew of electrical issues.
I hear you, it’s expensive! You have to be ready to make a real investment! I replaced all of that stuff, suspension handling everything between the tires, and the frame is new, even a lot of frame components, all suspension and handling was done first, then power upgrades, I may put a stroke motor in it next. Trying to decide on that but I hear you said never-ending fiasco. My dream car is a 67 Shelby GT500, so I’m with you but for 300,000 I’ll pass, that’s why I don’t have one now.
Oh man, this shit is frustrating! I have the G-Force outlaw axles for my Corvette. I sent them in and they were really cool to take my money when I needed the boots size down so they cleared my coilovers. They told me if I broke them they would be warranty and they'd be very impressed if I did. Mine have not failed. Then my other friend that runs a Honda broke his G-Force axles and they completely treated him like shit. If you research it G-Force seems like it could be a very shitty company. After spending $2,000 for axles, I don't think I would ever do it again unless they're custom and you have to. Just buy the good auto parts stuff with the warranty and break them and get new ones. That's what my friend does with his Honda. He's been running the Napa ones for two seasons 😂. The car makes some power too. It's like 900.
Wow, I didn’t know if this was a common thing or not, I didn’t know if anyone else had had this problem. I haven’t heard anything about it, but yes, they are really a shitty company to deal with! I hope yours don’t break, that’s what I ended up with this time those were renegade, these are outlaws, so I guess I made out a little bit in the end, but dude I wouldn’t trade it any day anytime for the fucking job I had to do, it was daylight by the time I was done. I started at like eight at night! Brutal job, welding bolts, and pulling with a slide hammer, it was such a pain in the ass then I had to replace the seal and everything else, I hope yours don’t fail. I hope mine don’t fail either now I have the outlaws as well, I have a tool that you change the boot with, it’s only like 70 bucks on Amazon. It’s a pneumatic tool that has a bunch of fingers that you hit the button and the air spreads themapart and spreads out the boot enough to fit over the axle, it’s pretty bad ass. Look into it, they’re not that expensive. That’s some Honda to make 900 hp, when I saw Honda I was thinking lower numbers for sure. I wish I could say I was glad that it wasn’t just me, but I’m not! I wish that it was only me, it’s a shitty situation. I hate to see other people have to go through it too, but you’re not alone, dude.
@@Cjsairgunscarsandmachining yeah I feel your pain man! Working on cars can really suck sometimes especially when it's the custom stuff lol. I've been through so many headaches with my drivetrain with my Corvette. I never broke an axle but I broke my input shaft that connects to the drive shaft. That's one of the weak links of my drivetrain. That was the biggest headache! The end of it got stuck in the crank and it was the biggest headache ever to get out! Basically the whole engine had to come out plus the drivetrain 😡! My friend with the Honda also had issues with G-Force with his gear set. They didn't warranty shit. He went with a company called graft racing
@@barryhallsack8852 yes it does man, I actually blew out the driveshaft, the differential, and the rear axle on the passenger side all in one shot, I dropped the clutch, and nothing happened. I had ball bearings rolling around on the ground, the differential the 4 inch driveshaft and billet differential at that point with different differential brackets, and the first set of GeForce that shit the bed and under 1000 miles.
@@Cjsairgunscarsandmachining I think this winter I'm going to switch out my drivetrain to a th400 or do that 6xd but that thing cost fucking 40 Grand 😯. I am so sick and tired of messing with clutches and when you make over a thousand horsepower they don't hold up for shit! The clutch cost as much as a th400 😯. Not to mention my car would probably be hitting low sevens with ease with a th400. But then the street ability goes out the window 😂. Manual cars are just so much harder on components. An auto car just stays in boost the whole time without hardly any interruptions.
full metallic race clutch twin disc, $5000 worth of hardware just for the clutch, slave cylinder, and all associated bearings and what not but it has really held up. It’s a very aggressive engagement, but it’s holding up really well. The clutch is amazing, I love it. I would go with a traditional slave cylinder because they are just reliable, but you do have to machine a spacer. That’s what I did anyway, I have a 4‘ x 4‘ CNC, and I cut a spacer exactly the same dimensions as the back of the slave cylinder and the bell housing on the opposite side, fits perfectly and lifts up the slave cylinder, just enough. My numbers are perfect and it came out perfect it really drives phenomenal, I can drop the clutch with my 315 hankooks on the back. And they are on 11 1/2 inch wide, red eye rims, and 305s in the front, and it will just blow those tires out. I think I’ve already broken everything I can break lol, cost me a lot of money and a lot of time and if I had to do again, knowing I probably would. Only because I can’t see driving that car as an automatic. It just doesn’t work in my brain.
Dude, that was in the winter, and I plow snow and outside. Yes I get a cold and I have the sniffles, if it’s so annoying why the hell are you watching it and even more than that why are you taking the time to comment on it? I mean you’re just giving away space in your head for free, you think you’re insulting me? Frankly, you’re probably some fucking bum that has nothing better to do than watch RU-vid, and make nasty comments! You don’t like it don’t watch it dude I don’t give a shit.
Hey man, that’s great to hear! That’s honestly the reason that I do these videos, I think you definitely did dodge a bullet because that thing has been a big paperweight! Literally hasn’t printed in months, not a smart purchase. In hindsight, IDEX is overrated. I actually got a raise 3-D E2 after that and realized I don’t really need a second extruder, I rebuilt a Creatbot f430 into a true high temperature printer, had it it up to 150 in the chamber, 200 on the bed, and 450 on the nozzle, which will go to at least 550, but I’ve already printed with pekk-cf, pps, etc and it was a huge project, took a long time, but came out really good. With one extruder! Tool head is much lighter, gantry is lighter, more accurate, I don’t think having two print heads at real get any realistic cost, but is possible or realistic, I think you have some thing that was a good IDEX 3-D printer would be very expensive as it would have commercial grade lead screws, something like the pantheon, but with two separate printheads to actually be reliable and not have any issues.
@@Cjsairgunscarsandmachining Thanks for the sharing spirit man. I work in a school and it would have been a signiiiiiificant cost. Aurora tech channel, and all the other popular ones rave about this printer. Soooo glad I saw your videa. You went to a huge amount of effort. Mainly I am concerned about plastic waste. I want to print supports using PVA.
@@Beehive66 honestly, I would recommend a bamboo lab X1C, it’s a little more expensive, but it’s such a reliable printer. I have two of them, and they have been literally the only reliable 100% printer, every time I need to print some thing they are ready to go, four different materials you can use support and PLA or even some mid temperature materials like PC, ABS, etc., and they print very well even with those. Reliably every time really accurate. They are actually a really good printer, you just need to have an extra hot End and extruder and they don’t even need the motor on the extruder. It goes right into the tool head.
People who make comments like the one below this are guilty of envy. One of the seven deadly sins, we should be happy for each others success, there are so many people more successful than me, and I am genuinely happy for all of them, but that's me, just watch out for people like that, they want to bring you down to THEIR LEVEL, but I'm immune to it. You all should be! YES you www.youtube.com/@chrisfigueroa3361
No meth needed, it's called ocd, but being an asshole is something you can't fix, so is stupid, I LITERALLY BOUGHT THE GUN TO MAKE IT A .25!!! Did you miss that? Well, as I said, "can't fix stupid"
Hey dude, that’s awesome, I don’t really know what that is, but I will look it up. Lol but anyways, I’m happy for you, I’m not one of these guys. That is jealous. When people get things I’m actually happy for them! I like to see people have nice things, they deserve it. We all should, just have to work hard for it.
I’m sorry about that man. I didn’t realize how bad it was until after I had done the video com I had the body Mike on, but it was just picking up too much of the machine. I should have shut it off.
@@martinl8273 congratulations! That’s awesome dude, you’re gonna have a blast! Really great gun, honestly I’ve had a lot of fun with it and it’s become like my number one go to truck gun, not really a competition gun but it’s awesome for around your property or neighborhood whatever wherever you’re able to, I’m happy for you dude! Recommendations I used the puck that I machine out as wide as I could while maintaining stability, aside from that for the Jets I tried all different sizes because I wanted to see how much power I could actually get out of it when I maxed it out, but I ended up using a two and a three which is what I think the 357 comes with, and I landed on those because it was the most accuracy and the best velocity while maintaining accuracy with the most power in 25 caliber without sacrificing any accuracy. So that would be my recommendation overall after you do your testing, that’s for a long-term solution. I tested with the most dramatic combinations you could imagine.
@@Cjsairgunscarsandmachining thank you, you are the best Chris! im guessing reg pressure is at 200bar? I will let you know what i got from this on a 350. Again thank you this helpt alot. Greetings from the netherlands
This company is shady, I reached out to them because mine worked perfect for 2 weeks and then couldn’t complete a job. The lady says I’ll send you one of the new print heads for free… I was like I already bought hardened steel print heads and they’re clogging too… She checks and says, oh no we have another hot end that works great and solves these problems. This was literally earlier this week, and I responded like, you sold me a printer with defective pieces and now you only want to send me one hot end? I tried to return it and she told me it would have to be unopened for me to return it and said sorry I can’t help you. Basically I told her I was charging back and she was then begging me not to return the damn thing. What heat block and what nozzles did you use? If you could put that in the description of the video and maybe make a video on how you swapped them, that would be awesome.
I’ve honestly done nothing with that printer. I don’t use it. Nothing but problems. 500 bucks for k1c or 1500 for bambu and they are great. Even qidi has issues but support is awesome! Sorry you’re going through this. Dispute the charge if you used a credit card. They’ll back you up.
Dude, if it was returnable, you should have disputed the charge on your credit card. I’m telling you they are shady as fuck and the credit card company will back you up. If you send it back to them, they have to give you your money back if it wasn’t working. You just need to document everything, I could have shown you this before you wasted your money but a couple other people said I did which is definitely the reason I did this so I’m happy to hear that, I wish I could’ve helped you too
I mistakenly dry fired my new 700 mm Panthera while trying to degas, and now I have a significant leak through the barrel, the magazine port when cocked, and when I remove the tank. It won't hold any air; it instantly leaks severely when refilling. I noticed some aluminum shavings when checking the outside of the valve (the 2-pin screw). Do you know what the fix might be or what I should do? I suspect I have a bent valve, but I’m new to airguns. I understand the V1 pin valve was thinner than the newer V2 valve pin. Should I consider replacing it? I haven't checked or disassembled the valve pin area, only removed the barrel and liner to see if I had the carbon sleeve (which some folks said isn’t included). I have the rifle in Mexico and got it from KRALE in the Netherlands. It’s still under warranty, but shipping it back costs a fortune, and I’ve heard it can fail again even after repair. I want to learn how to fix it myself and understand my new gun. If we could get in contact and you would be willing to help me through WhatsApp, email, or the Airgun Nation forum (username: Billions), I would really appreciate it. Thanks for your help! I liked and subscribed 👍
Not enough power. Shooting like high 700s low 800s with.35 pellets. My rattler .357 shoots 1000 with 165 grain slugs. .25 was up to 1100, but kept around 950-1000 for accuracy
what the crap is with the start and the vid just do a screen capture or add the vid in like normal instead of filming a screen 3rd person like its the 80s 🤣
We are a manufacturer of bullet presses. Our slugs press is the most perfect product on the market at present. It allows you to make air gun projectiles quickly and accurately. You can watch our videos to learn about our products. I need your contact information. I hope you can reply to me.
This was a long time ago, buddy, before I ever got wireless microphones and what not. Unfortunately, I can’t go back to that time, but I have definitely upgraded since.
Yes, obviously I’ve heard of it, obviously this is the format that I use. If you’ve seen any of my videos, you would know that, it is what it is. It’s a real review! Just like it says.
I'm going to be purchasing FX impact Mark III used but I want to shoot slugs and pellets in that case I would have to purchase the heavy liner correct? Besides the liner do you need to upgrade anything else to shoot slugs? The only thing else I'm considering is to purchase a harmonic balancer. I don't want to go crazy on modifications but just want to know the essentials.
Honestly, that’s still one of my favorite guns! I think the harmonic balancer is honestly the last thing you need! It’s an accurate gun. I’ve never used one, in fact, I’ve never used one on any of my guns and I can shoot them straight. If you seen my shooting videos, you can see the accuracy, it’s a really accurate gun. I think that’s overkill in itself. I would get the slug power kit. The tungsten hammer and the probe for slugs, the barrel you could use the stock barrel, it’s honestly OK for slugs also but I did get an 800 mm heavy slug liner, and that definitely changed velocity as well as accuracy. But it was accurate already. It’s kind of hard to say that it did anything in the way of accuracy honestly because it was already so accurate.
@@CjsairgunscarsandmachiningThanks for getting back to me. When I spoke to Utah airguns they told me that if you're shooting 22 caliber the standard liner works but if you're shooting 25 or 30 caliber you should upgrade to the heavy liner. I'm not sure you agree with that? Are you shooting 22? I think the kit you're referring to is called the slug probe kit. I'll take a look how much they cost up here in Canada.
So, as far as the different calibers, I don't think it's an issue even up .30. .35 is not good on that gun at all. In my opinion. It doesn't have the power for it, the velocity is just too low with .35, but in .22, .25, and .30 its a bad ass gun. Even with the stock liner, I'd wait until you get it, and try it before you order more upgrades, your money will be spent quick either way trust me, but it could be better spent on other parts. Check out Huma air.
@@CjsairgunscarsandmachiningGlad I reached out to you. Yes I agree like I said I don't want to go crazy spending money it's already an expensive gun. Does the slug power kit include the tungsten hammer and the probe?
Well I don’t know where I came across your channel at but dam I found some one kind of like me far as doing all kind of stuff, workaholic and loves the hell out of airguns but definitely farther along than I am. Good spot for me. Awesome channel Chris!
Well, you got my number, I am definitely a workaholic and love my airguns, but I don't know that I'm farther along than anyone else, we all take a different route. lol, mine is just a little scattered, and there is obviously always reasons for that, but I do enjoy the things I'm passionate about, and I have learned a TON from all of the other people sharing their knowledge on youtube, so I'm just trying to contribute to that. Appreciate you!
@@Cjsairgunscarsandmachining your right man I like the way you look at stuff and your definitely correct. Def just approaching things at different times and at two different times in our walks but I definitely found something I’m passionate about and have no problem spending my money on. Lot better then things I blew money on in the past. So do you firelap your barrels or just clean them
@@Cjsairgunscarsandmachining actually is this the best way for me to reach out to you or is there a better method I want you to watch a short clip I just seen on RU-vid and tell me what the hell this guy has going on
@@Alloutairguns You can email me, but I think youtube usually blanks it out, my email is c j 1 1 0 1 0 9 at gmail hopefully that will make it through, but people usually find a way to get a hold of me.
@@Cjsairgunscarsandmachining ah ok I know I’m subbed to bunch of Airgun channels but came across this video and was just wondering what you were building. Cool project man how much do you have in that project if you don’t mind me asking that thing looks up there!
Yeah, I do a lot of airgun stuff, mainly that’s what I started the channel doing, but I always intended on getting into all the other stuff that I do, CNC machining, metal turning on the lathe, cars, diesel, trucks, drones, ham, radios, building computers, I have tons of hobbies! That project is pretty far along financially, but not nearly as far as if that was purchased with the capabilities it has now it’s even further along that’s an old video, it’s completely squared away now. That’s probably a $30-$50,000 printer, and I have less than 10 into it.
@@Cjsairgunscarsandmachining hell yeah man! how much does a decent cnc machine cost I know I just spent 799$ on a chassis I wish I had the machine to build it but it’ll be a good fit for the Zeus but thinking long term I’d like to try and find my place in the Airgun industry but have a hell of a long way to go still but enjoy learning from you guys on here.
@@Alloutairguns you’d be surprised, the CNC machine that I bought was extremely affordable for what it is, it’s 4‘ x 4‘ it’s a company that’s not very old, that I know of. I don’t think they’ve been around for too long called Langmeyer, it’s they do a lot of RU-vid advertising, but it’s a really bad ass machine. 3.6 hp spindle, machine titanium! it’s a very powerful machine. Honestly, I was out the door under 10,000 and I got all the collets, different size, tapping bits end mill bits, two low profile vices, and I got the whole 9 yards the enclosure, the liquid cooling pump and coolant system, the thing is you have to assemble it yourself. And it’s a labor-intensive and also intricate installation/assembly.
I am printing large industrial Nylon gears. Would you reccomend the F430 or the Qidi Xmax3 will do the job. I want reliability and support from the manufacturer. The diference in price is big but for a most reliable machine it is worth it in my opinion.
Hey man, good morning, so that’s a loaded question for sure. With QIDIU will definitely get support in the form of you doing the work and they send you the parts and give you information on how to do it. CreatBot’s support I’m unsure of, they were working with me, but the truth is I was going so far on that printer, there was nothing left of theirs that they could help me with so I don’t know how far they would have gone, but it seemed like they were willing to work with me even when doing modifications, but the reason I did so much to that printer is because the F430 is worth doing it to. It needs updated electronics. It’s a 10-year-old printer, but the fact is it’s industrial built. That’s the reason for the cost increase, it’s a truly industrial 3-D printer. It’s all steel construction, large, linear, rails, large linear, rods, and lead screws, it’s built to be an industrial machine printing all the time. So hopefully that information is helpful, now that I’ve done everything I’ve done to it. I can print with it in very high temperature material, I’ve been successful with PPS, which is a high temperature. Very temperamental nylon, I’m going to do Peek and pekk next. And I don’t anticipate any issues after seeing do this. If you have a more specific question, I can answer it for you to the best of my ability, but the decision is not an easy one. It’s a very different printer, it seems like for your purpose and 1 of reliability, the CreatBot is probably going to be your best. Bet if you can afford it, but the QIDI will definitely have the support, but the problem is you’ll need the support. That was the problem for me, they were there, and they were helpful, and they sent the parts I needed, but I didn’t want to need that many parts that fast that often. The industrial printers are going to need maintenance because their printing at extremely high temperatures, you can’t find a printer you can do that without having any maintenance, but at the same time it’s very easily maintainable. Everything is industrial. So it’s all serviceable. That would be my choice for your application, but you have to make your own decision. Obviously, I’m happy to help educate you as much as I can on the machines, but ultimately it’s your decision. I hope this is helpful.
Hey, I am really thankful for your comprehensive answer and for taking the time to explain. I will check if the reseller in Greece can help with the mentainance and if yes we go for the creatbot
With the high reg pressure and that large volume of the plenum you should try using a larger puck for a shorter burst of air per shot.. it may shoot more consistent when u shoot fast..
The puck that I’m using is actually the biggest one, and not only that, but I put it in my CNC machine and ordered out even larger than that, I kept it outer perimeter to maintain stability, but the largest opening I could get I was able to achieve over 1100 FPS maximum with the smallest jets during testing that I sent back to Spain. They were blown away, never thought I would get that velocity, but I did.
sure, I’m happy to. I can make a video with accuracy results, I actually have it set up as a 357 right now, and I haven’t used it much that way, maybe I’ll do a video with it as a 357, and how to change it back to 25. When I’m gonna change it, I’ll make a video and I’ll do accuracy with both if you’re interested. I haven’t done a lot of stuff recently because I’ve been swamped building two 3-D printers, one VORON, and one custom high temperature that has been a nuisance. Honestly, I thought it would be a lot easier, so many things go wrong. If it’s not one thing it’s so much with wiring and programming and coding, but I need a break from it anyway. Lol
I am trying to decide between both and I just got off live chat with Prusa. The live chat guy was great and showed me lots of information. Their service contact experience is seriously amazing, which by the way he talked up. My problem is they are old and no enclosure. I have also upgraded a cr10s over the years, it has every upgrade thinkable including my own designed enclosure with a fire detection and extinguisher system. The problem is I'm sick of tinkering. I just want to hit the button and print.
Brother, I totally hear you! I’m in the middle of building my first VORON 2.4, I just finished building that monster CreatBot/ChrisBot, and that was a huge endeavor, but finally finished all the heating is working. Everything is working I decided on the all metal extruder that I had for the intamsys from Bondtech, water cooled, goliath, hot end, I water cooled the extruder with a Nema 17 water cooling block along with everything else in the printer, and CPAP for cooling part, anyways I went crazy like I do with everything so I totally understand. I have two words, bamboo labs! QIDI will stand behind their product for sure they will help you they’ll send you parts, etc., but that means you’re working on their printer! You’re working on fixing a printer you didn’t even build! I have two bamboo X1C printers, both with AMS, and I can count on my one hand in a year how much problems I’ve had with both of them combined, and that’s with a lot of printing and minor stuff. An extruder one time, but it’s not the motor, just the gear part that you can get for 40 bucks, and hot ends, typical stuff, but no major malfunction at all whatsoever! Very much of an incredibly dependable and reliable machine, even for higher temperature filament I use almost exclusively, polycarbonate, and polycarbonate carbon fiber in those machines some PETG, and lots of other filaments I don’t go too much higher than polycarbonate, because PPS will warp with no heated chamber, and I would add heat to the chamber, but the space is so limited, there’s not many ways to add it. Even if you do, it would be minimal because you can’t put a significantly big heating system in it, but all the way up to nylon it prints very well. Basic nylon, PA six you need hotter temperatures, but you can print a lot of materials on that machine flawlessly. If you just want to hit the button and print, that’s your absolute best bet in my opinion.
Appreciate the words, man, take a look at the custom high temperature printer that I made. I bought a CreatBot F430, and custom built it into a extreme high temperature 3-D printer. I’m just actually finishing it up now, I’ve been working on it for months. It’s crazy, I put an additional heat source inside actually three additional heat sources from the original one, with the original one, and insulated the entire interior three different power supplies, three SSRs, and a MOSFET for 24 V heat sources, and the SR’s are for 120 V bed and chamber heat sources, I’ve been through several printer configuration files as well as MCU boards because they couldn’t handle it and I had to keep changing, I’ve had to change so many parts because of the extreme temperatures not being able to handle it the parts, I kept having to change stuff but I have one final video coming out where everything is completely done because I’m just about done 100%, and there was a lot of people that had this printer that wanted to do this type of modification, so I’m definitely going to put the final video out, and I’m also in the middle of building a VORON, and I’m going to start supplying parts for the 3-D printed parts for that printer made out of polycarbonate and polycarbonate carbon fiber because no one is supplying them with anything better than ABS or ASA, so I’m going to provide them for the exact same price with way better material. Building one is your best. Bet if you want a high temperature printer because at least when you build one, you’re not fixing someone else’s problems, you’re only fixing your own. When you buy a ready-made printer, and start using it for engineering level filament, at least when it’s your printer, you can prepare for them. Anyways, just my opinion, but thanks again, feel free to reach out if you need a hand.
Just found you as I am looking into one of these 2 printers as well. I want to be able to print engineering grade materials so I have been leaning towards the Qidi with the heated chamber. Any ways, hearing you say all the things you're into, I'm over here wishing you were my neighbor! LOL I'm in HVAC as well! I'm a manufacturing designer doing CAD/CAM work on custom commercial units. I love airguns too, having recently gotten into it a couple years ago. I used to do a lot of RC stuff over 15 years ago, but a divorce had me sell my stuff and I just never got back into drones, but I want to! Anyways, thanks for the vid. It helped to provide some clarity. You are knowledgeable AF!
