Thank you for this video, last week while camping the strut on my 2014 broke at the ball and I needed to remove it to close the door. I was ready to just cut the wires but decided to see how hard it was to reach the connectors. Got my new ones this week and will replace both tomorrow. (Our trip will forever be known as the cursed camping trip because SOMETHING went wrong every day 😂 thankfully nothing major)
Hi! Mine has recently been replaced and works great 70% of the time but the arm sometimes pops off the ball joint while trying to close my hatch. I am then required to try to put it on back on but it cause some damage... Do you know why this might be happening or if you have experienced this before.
Thanks for the helpful video. We followed your video and was able to change out both struts without any problems. Save me a lot of money from the dealer. Cheers!!!
Thank you SO much for posting this! We are not car handy but with this video and the link to the right part we were able to fix it ourselves no problem and saved so much money! Thank you thank you!
My 2018 Rav 4 has this EXACT issue! We’ve taken to the mechanic twice and they’ve failed to fix anything… time to DIY this sucker. Appreciate the video!!
My strutsfrom ebay came without the brackets attached and no instructions. It is a lot easier to bolt the brackets on before attaching them to the struts. That's glosses over in this video. It was a major headache doing it backwards.
my 2018 Rav4 is getting stuck sometimes when its mid opening or mid closing; it does the beep sound then it sounds real tight and then stops, maybe i should do this.
Did this make a difference for you? Im having the same behavior of liftgate malfunction as in the video but I dont know definitively whether the struts are my problem or something else. Curious if it worked for you. @@MsOmarOfficial
@@dredthis9473 Hey sorry i just saw this comment. if you are having this same issue, best choice is to replace both struts. i did it and it worked! this video is the best i found for the how-to
The missing nut is up underneath the throttle body coming up at an angle. I struggled with that bolt for the longest but to anyone wondering that’s where it is.
Hey Dave- would ask this on your other video but your comments are turned off. On your bike ride to ludington video, are you able to share what roads you took leaving Baldwin? will be riding to Ludington from Sanford soon and trying to find a good route. Thanks!
Great video. I'm struggling to get the white electrical connector to disconnect. I tried the flat head screwdriver but since this is my husband's car I'm terrified of breaking the connector. HELP. I tried both sides to see if one might be easier but given it's been connected for going on 11 years, they do NOT want to separate. Maybe i'm not strong enough to both hold down that side tab and pull while my arms are under the plastic trim. All help would be appreciated.
Electrical connectors can be stubborn. Main this is to be patient and not break off the locking tabs. Maybe you can get one side at a time to release and rock it out? Good luck!
Good job guys! Exactly what I wanted to know (what was wrong) and exactly what I needed to know (how to fix it). Good illustrations and narration. I suggest adding the Amazon link in the additional information.
I don’t recall if ours came with them attached or not. But I think you can still install with the mounts already on the ball joint. But ball joints like these and hood struts usually pop off with just a little leverage. Thanks for checking us out and best of luck!
No, I did not. I think these are benign enough they won’t cause and potential shorts or spikes installing. Just a quick plug for each one. Best of luck on your repair!
So much good info. Thanks! Didn't say where the dip stick anchor bolt was? On the engine or body behind the wheel well liner? Does the dip stick need to be moved to get at this, and if not, can it be done from above without removing the wheel well liner? Thanks! I hate to have to pop rivet that back on AGAIN! LOL
My dip stick tube was attached to the engine block and that was accessed from up top. But to get to the censor bolts I found it easiest to go through the fender. You might be able to get to the censor bolts leaving the dipstick tube alone, but it was easy to remove the one bolt and pull it out of the way just to make the censor work a little easier.
@@drwisniewski Thanks Dave! Found t6he 9/16 bolt and removed it along with as much rats nest as I could. Every time I feel down and finally find one of the bolts, I can't find it again when I have the socket on an extension when I go back. BURN BABY BURN. Damn, no lightning today! LOL What a nightmare! Popcorn rivet time watching a Horror Movie!
@@drwisniewski All I can say is Pull the wheel and Fender liner and access it from there. 1/4" drive ratchet with a 1/2" socket and a 9/16" socket to pull the ground wire in the way and be done with it. On my 1999 Durango SLT+ with a 5.9 anyway. Thanks for getting me to what works!
I just found out those bolts that you put back in for the starter they're actually aluminum talked bolts one time use but the biggest problem for Beamer and why the starters go bad is because those bolts end up getting corrosion around them because of galvanic corrosion and that stops them from being able to ground the starter to the engine meaning no start or bad starters burning up the windings
@johnbee6035 Here’s another hint. Don’t be a total dick in the comment section when someone else takes their time to share repair tips on any kind of car. Be happy with your piece of shit Honda.
