Get the PB blaster soaking in right now. the hub bearing is usally the one that will fight you the most! With out that tool I showed in the video. Have fun and injoy the time with your uncle ;-)

For sure! Share away! Can't wait to see it on the fans page! click on the share link below the video, copy and paste the link on to the fans page.

@@CudaFishEStories I cant get it to go past the checks step, says the video can not be processed?

@@hypoxiadragwayfanspage9527 you are not trying to re due my video! your only trying to copy and paste it on the fans page.Your not uploading it!!!! Your "copying the link and then pasting it on your Fans Page. Time to do some google searches on how to do just that.

Pay close attention, just before i slowed the video down. I dialed 7.88 and he dialed a 7.95. So the tree started on his side, .07 Seconds sooner then my light. He is the slower car so he gets to leave first. When the times are so close like that, it's real hard to focus "only" on your side of the tree. I said all that because he moved or nudged into the beam a little bit more as the light started to come down............and i thing i reacted on that extra nudge he did. I didn't even realise he had done that until i watched the video back. Yah, i'm making excuses now ;-)

Ah, the classic “it won’t work here” dilemma! Maybe we need a global test lab for all these ideas! 🌍🔬

The heat expands the metal braking the rust loose,right? What happen when you spray penetrating lube in the metal…..it burns off, right? The wax melt into the cracks of the rust. Wax, when hot is a lube that won’t burn off be for it can penetrate. Make sense.

Yup and wax is the next step when, heat alone, won't release the part

Glad to see you have had positive result as well

This old timer was glad he tried it. 👍

👍thanks what I find it works best is on exhaust sensor

Test it out for your self. It not a miracle.But it works

👍

Us a candle for the first time???????

PB is my favorite as well. But heat and wax is better. Try it and see for yourself. 👍

Try the candle. You won’t use PB again.

Haha, just make sure the JB weld doesn’t start charging its own toll!

@@CudaFishEStories The first time you let off the gas hard, that “fix” is in the oil pan. Nuts how the injector spray does this.

@@mikemossa9640 busted pistons and s shaped conecting rods

Thanks You need to come and experiance it in the passanger seat ;-)

I don't know my Modern Mopar vary well, but it does have the Gills on the fender like a 71 cuda would have had. And a challanger never had. It is a question i should have ask him. He bought it as a totaled or wrecked, and completely rebuild the hole car. Its a Pro Charged Hemi.

Thank You I Truly appreciate Your input.

Thanks Glad you found it interesting.

Absolutely! I have been using this suspension for a while now, and i really like it. it plants the tire much better ;-)

Before and after test we’re with Out Shocks

👍sure respond better too

So was it basic enough, you could pull that jeep head off, and port it............If you wanted too. :-) Thanks for your support.

There is two different schools of thought, when it comes to suspension for straight line racing, and a car that need to perform turning(Handling). But one universal truth, is that a sticky or not smooth operation front end.......Will perform Badly. looking forward to your new engine build. Thanks again for your suport :-)

Yes with a rubber grommet. Dont want to make matter worse with a wire being cut by the hole you put in the fire wall. Drilling threw the conector works, but if your going to a 8 gauge wire, the hole may be to big for the conector and cause it to crack or split just a little food for thought. If you have more queston just let me know. ;-)

Thank you so much for watching and for your kind words! It means a lot to hear that the video was helpful to you.

thanks

Thank you Robert for taking the time to ask a question. The throat width is a buy product of other things, like, a 3 angle valve job mostly. The seat angle and the bottom cut below the seat. You round the Bowl and throat to the bottom cut of the 60*. say your seat angle is 45* and your top cut is 30* and your bottom cut(the one that cut into your throat) is 60. You would round it all up to the bottom of the 60 leaving the ssr alone as i showed in the video. The 60* were it meet up to the 45*(seat) and from the 45* to the 30* you need to keep then angles SHARP. do not round then at all. Them sharp angles, is what help the wet fuel that has come out of suspention to re mix into the air as it enter the combustion chamber. Round here \ 30* Top Cut | 45* Seat / 60* Throat Cut And here Did that answer you question? If not, rephraze the queston and i will try again. ;-) Have Great Day!

Wow, thanks for answering, seriously. I realize how busy we all get and it's somewhat rare to get such a thorough answer. I'm older and still have much to learn, a semi retired manual machinist who's been lucky to work with some engine builders and I'm currently building another mopar sb. I've always loved the challenges of N/A stuff and very much appreciate your willingness to teach. Thanks so much brother

Your welcome. Anytime i can help another Mopar out, We all win ;-) Tell me about your sb build, and i might be able to give you a little bit more advice on porting of that head. What is this new engine going to be built for........ pump gas deal/street........high compression racing fuel.......exc Hyd, flat, or roller cam.

I have a 72 Scamp with a 318 with '302' heads, comp xe 268h and performer manifold and long tubes....msd An ok combo for mid 300hp approx with good vacuum and throttle response but I'm planning on bigger valves and bowl work and a little unshrouding. New higher compression height flat tops already purchased with a tight quench are the plan for more compression, from current 9:1 to 10:1 Hoping for 400hp. Maybe install a small circle track cam, I've had good luck with them in SBCs As an old machinist I enjoy grinding fortunately ! First time porting heads however

I would Square Deck the Block as part of your quench figures. If you don't, you my find that the front piston has .040" Piston to head clearance and the back piston have .017" Not a one of Mother Mopar factory block are square from the factory. When your tightening thing up it becomes important. More Quench and compresson is a big plus. I'm not sure a bigger valve is a good idea. more valve shrouding, maybe even cylilnder wall shrounding could be a problem with the small 318 bores. just something to consider.........Maybe cut down a larger valve and split the difference(there is allway a compromise) You can alway put a larger valve in later but you cant go back. I would stick with the standard intake valve and make the throat around 89% of the valve by doing a 3 or 4 angle valve job. let the valve job set your throat. if the 60* doesnt open up your throat to 89% of you valve then cut the 4th angle at 75* just touching it untel you get you 89% then blend from the bowl to the bottom of that final cut. You can do all of this with a larger valve as well.........The choice is yours. 89% of a larger valve will have a larger csa at the throat. buy one larger valve and and see how it fits It will give you a better idea how much it shrouds and if it will require bore wall notches.......(usually only the 273 need cylinder bore notches) If your going to put the larger vavle in, you will need to widen the floor at the SSR to slow back down the air speed a little.....remember my warning of the SSR. with a long bur, on the straight wall side, at the floor of the ssr make a corner radius, aka make the ssr wider but be careful, you could find water there. .020" you should be safe. Now your starting to port a sylinder head............what you do to that port you now have to some-how match to 7 more ports.......keep that in mind. Take my appinion with a grain of salt as i have not ported a 318/302 head. Ok i need to stop as i have allready wrote a book here ;-)

Thanks

Thanks Thomas! I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment. If you run all of your excessory off of that wire,(8 gauge)...... not after, it has come back threw the firewall you are taking load off of that critical inferior Spade conection. This would be a good thing. Do You have a fuseable link or a 100 amp fuse between the battery and the 8 guage wire? Please add one if you havent. What Gauge of wire are you running back up to your starter? What car/truck are you racing(assumed because of battery in trunk :-) )

Thank you for engaging with the video! Your enthusiasm is appreciated.

The valve stem is definitely in the way........Air likes round curves over flat, so that's a plus. Also as "mild" of a port job, that we did. The valve stem probably has little affect. how ever, on a large porting job were the hole port has to be modify, a 8 MM(5/16) guide and valve make a difference over the standard 3/8" stem.

LOL, I spell check the best i can, "English Major" I'm Not ;-)

We would hope so. There wouldn't be much compression if it continue to flow after the vavle is shut ;-)

PVC adjustable socket, I like it. 😁

So what did you dislike about these 2 video……..what did you like the most……. I would appreciate some feedback, if you got the time. Thank you.

@@CudaFishEStories Both videos were well stated. If I were a beginner....or a beginner closer to the beginning 😆, The info would have had a much greater impact. However, your emphasis on minimal material removal, and airspeed being the ruler of all, is well received for street engines and low budget street/strip. I am curious to know the cc's of those open chambers. I am messing with some Ford open chamber Cleveland 2v stuff which is prone to detonation in its stock form even though it is low compression. Your chambers look similar but shallower. Did those heads have detonation issues with the factory set up?

The 360 piston sets .040" in the hole or below the deck, the low compression 340 set .020 in the hole. the High compression 340, clamed of 10.5:1 set .010-.017above the deck. Small block chrysler are claimed to be Detination resistent.........But i don't know. What i do know is that that 10.5 compression was actually only 9.4 in stock form. My 9.4 compression 340 would detinate just a little at the top of the 1/4 mile when it was hot (100*F) and running on 91 octane.(4400' track elevation) The heat of the summer i would have to splash a little 110 racing fuel to keep it happy. You have to shave .100" of the deck of the head to make it a "aka" closed chamber. just to put a little referance of the depth of the combustion chamber. I haven't taken a good look at a 2v or 4v clevo heads to have any comparisom or appinions Chrysler clams them combustion chamber to be 62cc but every one i have cc was 71-76cc and is why the compression ratio factor is off. How many cc is the 2Vs combustion chambers? Do they run a 2.02 intake?

@@CudaFishEStories I think they were 76cc but are at 80cc now. I am putting them on a 302 Windsor, so less cubes than a 351 Cleveland. The extra cc were from removing that tiny bit of "quench" area revealed in your plastic tube. I bolted them to a junk block and carved through the bottom of the cylinder until that interference was gone. Then I used .065 longer rods and pistons with .020 higher compression height for a total of .085 above the deck. All this, plus milling .040-.050 off the bottom of the head will get me about 10.25:1. .035 clearance to the spark plug strap. I theorize at this compression the mixture will be well mixed and some agitation will be done by the spark plug boss in the chamber. It is built from mostly junk, so it is an experiment that interested me. If yours only rattles in extreme cases, I'll take that as a good sign. lol...but we shall see.

🫣😂grate story👍👍

Your opinion mean a lot, thanks for your kind words.

I appreciate your enthusiasm and support!

True that! It’s like feeding a car junk food-eventually, it’s going to sputter and stall!

Haha, I love how you're already predicting the next sentence! Stay tuned for more cool stuff ahead.

Who knew the lid flip was the secret to all that power! But you know that butt omiter can lie to you ;-)

@@CudaFishEStories 🤣 Legend has it, that car with the $100 bill taped to the dash than no one could grab had a lid flip.

@@Jordy-927 😄 I like your version

And send abrasives into the engine.

Carburetor or fuel injection, we all have a intake.

@@CudaFishEStoriesMy car doesn’t have an intake It has PVC pipe from Lowe’s cut out the front fender that acts like one 😂😂😂😂

Reaction time to the christmas tree, .......in serious competition .006-.010.........a good average Reaction time (RT) is .040. My best RT of the day was a .088, but most were in the .110 to .120. As far as the dial in, if your off by a tenth, Example dial a 7.99 and run a 8.09 it tuff to go rounds. Its all relevant though. If you sign up for street, or a sportsman class, of bracket racing, you could be a couple tenths off of you dial in, and RTs in .100s and still have a good chance to win. Street would be licanced car with street tires, or sportsment that is usally 12 sec flat(1/4 mile track) or slower. My 7.94 is for a 1/8 mile track(Half Track) my 7.94 ruffly translated to a mid to upper 11 sec pass at a 1/4 mile track If you ever decide to go bracket racing, go there to see what ET and MPH you can get out of your car and then do some experamenting on what you car like. don't worrie about only getting two time trials and then having to compete. just consider first round of competition as just another time trial.........if you win the first round then cool you get to run down the track again. :-)

@@CudaFishEStories I have been to the track twice. 1st time I thought I would shift by "ear." lol...I didnt realize at times the car next to you is all you can hear. It was fun. Second time I had a tach, and a 3.55 trac loc. Out of 6 passes, 5 were in a 2/10 grouping and the RTs were all between .080 and .150. I dont expect to win if I try it, but maybe at least feel like I belong there??? lol...my car is a street car that runs 14.30 @ 99mph and poops out at 5400rpm. 2.25 60 ft. 3spd automatic. I ran 6 passes in about an hour cuz the place was almost empty. I should read the rules and give it a try.

14.30s is a good street car!!! My first time down the track it ran high 19s and my reaction time was in the .2xx and if i try to cut a better light it was red. So you are doing grate with your RTs. I have been doing it all this time for the" Racing family" you create!!!! It's a lot of fun and i can't wait for the track to re open each and every season. You allway want to go faster, but at your level, theres vary little preping, you don't break parts, and you can afford to drive it to the race track.

@@CudaFishEStories yeah...prepping = check tires and put some gas in 😆

yup those were the days, then it was driving there and removing and reinstalling my collectors,(exhaust). The installing the slick in the trunk, the 3.91 gears.............4.56 gears and its been on the trailer ever since.

For sure, it was one of my best 60 foot times I’ve had, but not my best ET. before I put my 50 cc squirter in, Stalin higher made it run slower. I’m gonna have to do some testing next time out.

Thanks for watching and sharing.

you are right. But i'm taking to the people that can't afford to or just want to do it them self. That might not have understood the problem. Saving then time and money. You should go price how much all new battery cable would cost and then decide if a little time and dielectric grease wouldn't be the best choise for some one on a budget.

Yup that is the end goal.

Thank You. And agree, sometimes you have to take two steps backwards to move 1 step forward. Life is all about learning....and age is irrelevant. If your not learning, your not living. ;-)

The thing we do to save are ride on a overheating day. I too have been in them situations and adding heat to allready to hot of a day is miserable. all to save your ride.