Good Morning 81hucker, I don't know really. For the mirror, my best guess would be local salvage yard. I've had good luck with them with rims and stuff in the past. We have one here in Worcester, Standard Auto, I have used. Also, I think you should call one first and make sure they have one of your trucks there. Then drive there and make sure the part is what you want. Especially since there are many different styles of mirrors - you will want it to match. Lightbulbs, online I use Rock Auto. Their website is easy to navigate. They might have your mirror too... Good luck with your projects. You will save big money doing it yourself. Especially if you can get a used mirror in good shape. Thanks for watching and commenting! Ned
Good Morning Ferral1000. The passenger side were actually the easy ones. The ones on the top will be the hardest. All of them I started with a breaker bar and socket, then ratchet, then a gear wrench. For one of the bolts on top, I couldn't even fit the gear wrench and had to use a regular old 12 point box head wrench. Dropping the front differential is definitely the hardest part of the job. It took a whole Saturday. Spray bolts with penetrating oil and wire brush any exposed threads you can reach. On driver's side I needed to use a torch as well. Don't burn any wires. You can wrap them in foil to help protect them from the heat. Thank you for watching Ned's Garage! Ned
The drivers side 2 front differential bolts suck balls. Dont let his upbeat attitude toward life fool you. They suck....balls....used 3 different wrench based off how far they are out and proximity to oil pan.
Flywheel cover has a bolt on the driver side that is not accessible with a standard socket. There is a transmission mount bracket that restricts access to this bolt. How did you get this difficult to reach bolt out?
I am sorry DC-ep3bd but I did not experience that issue. My flywheel cover bolts were all easily accessible. There must be something different on your truck. Sorry I couldn't help. Thank you for watching and commenting. Ned
Thank you for the response. I was able to get the subject bolt in question out finally. It took a bit of finagling. Also, I did not need to jack the motor at all, oil pan came out with ease once the front diff was lowered. I have a 4x4 2012 Ram 1500 for reference. Thanks.
You’re very knowledgeable! I have a few questions - I didn’t see anywhere to send a message so I’m in hopes you’ll get a notification & see this! I have a Fisher plow & need some help. I watched several videos but you stood out to me - Thanks!
Hello DubVDD, please feel free to post any questions here and I'll do my best. Thank you for the nice comments, and thank you for watching Ned's Garage.
Very strange to have a coating like that on an oil pan. I came here wondering if it's possible to see the oil pick up tube from the oil drain plug with an inspection camera?
Thank you so much for this video and the previous one! Mines a 3.6 4x4 and needed to see a video. I read on the book and it said I had to do so much more things and I’m glad I don’t have to do all of that now thank you!
Have the same pump and set up. Have an issue where the plow works fine and then all of a sudden it won't turn left anymore I hit left and it goes up. I replaced all the seals and filters everything I was told to and I cannot figure out why this keeps happening. Like I'll hook the plow up the night before a storm or whatever everything will work fine it'll lift angle left and go right No problem. Hopping at the next day to go plow and then either right off the bat or pretty soon after it will not turn left again for a period of time and then it'll snap back and start turning left again cannot figure it out then messing with this all season and it's driving me nuts sick of just throwing parts at it everybody's always like oh try this try that but I don't know figured maybe I'd ask you cuz you seem like you knew what you were doing. I was told that doing a full flush takes about 2.5-2.3/4 quarts of fluid. But it just barely took up like two quarts. Maybe I haven't bled it properly or didn't put enough fluid in it? I have no idea how much did your plow hold and how do you know when it's full? I've heard different things from different people about the level and what's considered full. I'm just throwing a hail Mary out there that maybe my issue is not enough fluid but I don't know what the problem is you know. Appreciate your video Thank you for the time you put in making it. If you do see this in your able to lend a hand or have some knowledge about my problem please let me know I'd appreciate it Thank you very much.
i'm guessing that somebody wanted to clean the engine before an oil change, and put in a non-approved cleaning additive like brake fluid or carb cleaner, and that loosened the paint. Also could have been a manufacturing flaw.
Hello Luis, When the oil pressure sensor fails, it gives you a false report that your oil pressure is low. Oil pressure sensor failure is a very common occurrence and trust me, you would much rather have the sensor fail as it is a much easier repair than removing the oil pan from a 4x4 truck. You can test the oil pressure in the engine with an external gage to verify the sensor is working correctly. In this case, the oil pickup tube filter was blocked by the lining of the oil pan coming free and blocking the input to the pump. The oil pressure sensor correctly alerted me to the condition. Thank you for watching Ned’s Garage! And thank you for your excellent question! Ned
Don't know about you Ned, but I was always taught to never operate an air hammer without placing it against the "work". Over the years the spring has been know to fail and the chisel end becomes a projectile.
he was by himself in his house so no biggie. sometimes with the quick change chuck "dry firing" it can get the bits stuck and deform the chuck. but its his tool so who cares really lol. I appreciate the video man, its a super simple tool buts its good info to see. may help me one day. I thought mine was broken the other day and i realized the main collar/retainer cap thing was just loose. one twist and I was back in business. wasn't too bright about it because I worked for like 2 hours before i even addressed the problem, been a while since i used it and couldn't remember if it was always that way or not haha. The DeWalt air chisel is an absolute disgrace, don't ever buy it if you value your money or sanity. The 8 dollar ones from Walmart are legitimately better.
It was a good idea to show fastener location s after the necessary items where removed,instead of trying to film the process with poor lighting one handed. Good video. I have a 2006 Dakota 4x that requires the pan changed.
how do you recommend stabilizing the Differential to properly take out the bolts? and when you lift the motor, what are you using to hold it in place? i feel like the jack can possibly roll away which can be dangerous? Im currently doing my waterpump and timing chain on my 2013 5.7 and oil pan gasket as well. just looking for some pointers
Hello Joseph, I'm not the best resource for safety. The jack shouldn't roll back because it has the weight of the engine on it. I Also, make sure you use chock blocks and jack stands anytime you work under the truck. If you'd like to see a video on how I removed the oil pan ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-D80qn7wUDpY.html Good luck with your project! Thanks for watching and for your comments! Ned
Thank you! Great video, very helpful. I'm in the middle of the job right now, dropped the cross member and was figuring out how to lower the diff. Thanks to Ned - getting there)))
Thank you Alex Be! I am uploading a video on installation of the new pan right now. Maybe you might want to check it out. Thanks for watching and for your kind comments!
