Is there a difference between logging turbo pressure data when the car is on the road and when it's in parked and just pressing gas in idle? Most mechanics run the diagnostic on my turbo with the car parked, but most of the people run the car on the road to log pressure.
Maybe when they go into launch control they can see if the boost is picking up like it is requested to. But I would imagine doing a "dyno pull" on the road will give more data to how the turbo is actually performs.
Ok so I ran into an issue. I reset my oil twice. First time It worked and it gave me a future date to when to change the oil again. First date was 06/2025. Then for some stupid reason I wanted to make sure that I did reset it correctly and I did the same procedure again and after the second oil reset it than gave a second more in the future date. 08/2026. I was like oh crap! I just left it like that. Is there any way to fix my screw up and delete or go back to the first date. Now the car is telling me that the next oil service is in 13,000 miles or 08/2026 which obviously I'm not going to wait till 2026 or drive 13,000 miles until next oil change. I do use Castro euro car Europe formula 5w-30 full synthetic on my 2007 335i sedan and I know i can go 5,000 miles, but I do oil changes every 3,000 miles. I know it's not necessary, but I like to take precautions especially on a a bmw since fixing a BMW cost a fortune.
Just got vcds and laptop today. Hoping to diagnose limp mode/ fueling issue, car is 4.2l v8 s5 with aftermarket supercharger kit, upgraded hpfps and boost a pump for lpfp so not quite sure where to start. Injectors are all replaced
I have Audi A4 2.0Tfsi B8 2008. which take 4.6 liter engine oil. Is it safe to use 3 additives during the oil change I want to add (Oil additive + visco stable 300ml + oil saver 300ml )
To be honnest, I don't think it will be a major concern, the only thing that bothers me is the fact that lets say all 3 is 300ml that is 900ml of additives and 900ml of less oil. So its 3.7L of oil and that is quite alot less than normal. I would say rather add maybe 4L of oil and use 200ml of each and then if you need to top up, use the addatives first then. Just a suggestion :) but maybe trying to reach out to Liqui Moly will help you more with some proper awnsers
That is the hardest part. To get the key to work 💔🤣 I saw there is people who jacks thier car up and somehow unlatch the bonnet. How they do it, I do not know
NIce video bro... actually i was trying to find out whether my HPFP or LPFP is faulty, because everytime i try to accelerates quickly , my Audi A5 will enter limp mode, ESP & EPC lights on, and parking brake malfunction warning appear... i suspect it has something to do with fuel delivery system...
Have you tried using a diagnostic tool? To see what error pops up? It can even be a missfire, over or under boost. There can be so many things that can cause it.
I replaced mine with the same battery but A4 does not want to start. Everything going on lights etc. When you start it it just cranks. Was driving fine before my battery died😢
That is very odd... I would suggest to get it diagnosed and see why. There must be some kind of fault 🤔 you never said ylu got a nee battery. You only said you got the same battery... That battery is charged hey? 🤣 Stupid question I know lol
Sorry wrong typo😂.. Its a new battery but not AGM almost similar to yours 12v 85ah 668P. I also got random codes like P0016 Camshaft sensor. My windows does not want to work either. Car cranks but does not start. I think I might het someone out to have a look for me. It's pretty weird
Hey man! I have a 2009 Audi A4 that has been sitting and not been started since about April 2023. Apart from the obvious battery, what should I expect to discover (potential oil leaks from dried seals?) I had a motor overhaul in April 2021 most parts including the cylinder head were replaced so the seals only have a couple thousand miles on them. The tires were also brand new, did you find any flat spots on your tires? (I assume the car was stationary during the 3 years, mine definitely is.) Therefore what should I inspect and do before I attempt to crank it up? Also how can I go about priming the motor, bearings and what not? I left it with a full tank of gas, added some Stabil Fuel Stabilizer in April 2023.
Sorry for only getting back to you now. My car was fortunately not as stationary as yours. My car was parked but frequently started and went around the block once every few months. My tires did go a bit flat but as soon as I pumped it up again it was fine. Still using them till today. Glad to see you add some thing to the fuel as the fuel breaks down and looses it's octane... To be honnest I would have just drained that fuel as 3 years is a long time. Also I doubt you will have any leaks. I would have also drained the oil and changed the oil and air filter to make sure that everything is good. Remember there is a reason why they say you must change your oil after a certain amount of miles or time interval such as a year. The oil particles breaks down and won't lubricate the engine properly. To prime the engine I assume your talking about fuel? If so all you can do is turn your cars key to the on position without starting, you will then hear the pump in the back wining. Do it 3 or 4 times. If it is the oil you are talking about, rotate your crank and it will push oil up into the engine
@@megalodononwheels no sir, not 3 years, I was referring to the time your car sat. Mine has been parked since 2023 around February. Also no I’m not talking about priming it with fuel, the car does that on its own. I’m asking how to prime the motor internals with motor oil since after all this time components should have dried up, like the cylinder walls, piston rings, camshafts, rod journals and so on you get the point. I gathered that people recommend to pull out the fuel pump fuse and let the motor crank meaning it won’t actually start and just crank but even that initial crank is enough to cause some damage when those parts are dry. So I’m searching for a way to prime them. Some say pull out the spark plugs and pour a bit of oil in the lobes then with the fuel pump fuse out attempt the crank? And of course even tho it has been sitting for a little over a year, I plan to change out most fluids like the engine oil and all.
Will this fit a 2016 A3 premium?? The part looks the same but Amazon sayin it won’t fit 😢 I’m about to just order it cause I need my baby to run properly. Please help anyone
It won't fit unfortunately. Sorry to get to your message now. This is the Gen2 motor and you have the Gen3. They are not the same. You will see your pcv has a white part to it and mine doesn't, they work with different pressures when it comes to opening and closing
Yea it is not picking up as it should. It can be multiple things. Difficult to say what it is by not being there. I also heard that sometimes the furl pump in the tank can go bad and the pressure pushes the fuel bsck into the tank. But yes there can be multiple things
Which direction the holes shows does not really matter, I was nore concerned about the direction the lever is to adjust it. So my lever is facing down :)
A bit late for the show but glad I found this vid… can you perhaps tell me the part number & where you purchased the bottle from? I’m also from South Africa (I saw the GP plates on the other car 😉)
Lol damit 🤣🤣🤣🤣 All the parts I got from Goldwagen. Just take note I do not reccomend getting the bottle there as i had to return the bottle I bought and had to get a other one. For some reason the second one I got fit much better and was a bit more expensive so I do not know if they have more than one option. The problem I had with the first one was the lid had way to much play even when tighten down. Hope it makes sence :)
Thank you! Finally found one with the BC controller. Had to watch a couple of times. But finally got the light to reset. Of course this is after replacing everything on the front brakes. Thanks again!👍👍
It happened to my vw 2010 Tijuana . I disconnected the electrical plugs from that valve and then connected again . Do you think it's possible to be solved ? Because indication for engine disapered
Wow that is a tricky one as the light was supposed to stay on because it does not get a signal from the N75 valve 🤔 all I can think of is that the valve is maybe broken in someway that it triggers the light. Best advice I can give you is to plug in a Diagnostic machine and see what it says 👌
So what is correct oil weight for the 2018 Audi q5? 2.0? I’ve been getting mixed results , some say 0-20, 5w-40, 0w-40, 5w-30, 0w-30. What is the correct oil weight
Unfortunately that is not the case 💔 The turbo has been reconned not long ago and I have all the tests that has been performed on it to show it passed. These cars are known for this problem
Hi. I got both of them at Ford. They have a full diagram on their system that shows all of it. The one goes to the turbo and the other one to the side of the engine. Do change them as quick as possible as you dont want your car to overheat
I am really not sure, there is 2 ways one can do it on VCDS, I haven't done it in such a long time but there is another way 🙌 not much help, if your really batteling let me know and I will have a look for you :)
@@megalodononwheels I tried everything, long coding does not appear and adaptation dosen't work. It's probably not suported in my instrument cluster because it's 2009 A3
So hey bro. Ive got a bit worse scenario here. So basically iam at my family party in some restaurant and some girl parked behind me and I cant get out of my parking space. Her car is complettly locked im trying to help her but when we insert that key into the doors we cant turn it in any way. Im not mad at her because its cars fault its not opening but what do we do in this situation. We are calling towing company rn but what would you do in my situation?
Be mad at her 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Sorry for getting back to you now 🙌 The key must turn, I think because the handle on the key is so small it is very difficult but once one jiggles it and use some force it will turn eventually. They are usually stuck because they never get used
Hi, it was made for me at the shop. They don't make them in advance, they make them as they need to. Also I bought my mini cat from a local shop called Liatros Performance
I had the same symptoms on my 2006 high mileage BMW 316i. I went through a litre of oil every 800km… I changed the valve stem seals, and the car no longer consumes oil or spits out oil/water through the exhaust. Changing the stem seals is a pain though, but worth it and after a while you’ll forget the hardship and the pain of doing the job😂
@@megalodononwheels Yeah! I tried the rubber rejuvenating stuff, but on old cars the rubber is far too gone... If it's the piston rings there's not much you can do, besides a full engine rebuild. Changing the valve stem seals is dirt cheap, but is very labour intensive! I did the job for about 150 USD (a cheap timing tool from the Far East included). But you should check if Audis have valve stem seal or piston ring problems. On the Bimmers it's usually the valve stem seals, not sure about the Audis.
I would say look at the results after an oil change. If it smokes then add the additives. If it doesn't smoke then your good till maybe the next oil change 🙌👌
Yes it is safe. Just make sure you follow the instructions :) Also i never opened the engine before or afterwards to see the difference but I am certain it will work. :) (personal opinion lol)
You can do it yourseld :) nothing needs to be re-pressurised. Just follow the steps in the video and you should be ok. Also watch out for the small pipe it is very brittle
