Also reving high as soon as I start the ski rpm’s start to escalate with touching throttle. Has never done that up until I’ll blew compressed air into on of the cooling system lines. No once’s it starts it idles for a quick second and starts to rev as if gas is being given
@@cjphillips987 When you open it, it doesn't return, it stays accelerated, the water scooter can teach me step by step and if I have to pay you, I will do it, but I need to solve it, my friend.
@@donaldmoore5984 depends on certain conditions, any water compressed will push past the rings into the crank case, Is your engine running , and showing signs of water in the oil?
@@cjphillips987 Hi CJ, firstly a very well presented RU-vid explanation, thank you! And yes, engine is running. It is a 2006 FX Cruiser HO. End of last season it wouldn't start - I took it to a local shop who said it had water in it... they replaced the plugs which were corroded and did a couple of oil changes to get the water out of the oil and they winterized it for me... they told me the wave runner must have been submerged or flipped - which it has never been... Start of this season they suggested I bring it back so they could check it out further. I took it in and they said (without looking at it) that they remembered it from the end of last season and the engine would need replaced! Two seasons ago it had a new engine put in because the oil filter had a crack in it and had leaked the oil and blown the engine (a son who thought the warning sound was low gas!) The engine probably has less than 15 hours on it since being replaced... Needless to say I'm reluctant to put another new engine in - not to mention unimpressed that the shop mechanic said to replace the engine without really looking at it, felt like they were looking for an easy sale... I took it home and ran it on the hose, it ran fine but after 10+ minutes the oil was showing signs of water again. I have done a fair amount of wrench work over the years on cars and this weekend was going to check for water in the cylinders (as you show) and also check the compression before going further. Assuming compression is ok it was I thought I'd check the exhaust seal next. (roughly how long does that take to replace?) Appreciate any advice you can give 🙂
@@donaldmoore5984 Before spending funds to replace engine Identify where any moisture is coming from , i.e. ( Oil Cooler etc ) a compression check and leak down test verifies piston rings / Head gasket. Question How long of time does ski sit and in what environment? Moisture builds up inside crank case the drops in the oil as engine heats up How milky the oil is tells how much water is building up. If small amount, Change oil and filter and monitor changes to understand if you have an oil cooler issue or moisture flash off from sitting.
After i installed the CASE vent filter I capped off the intake where all of the Crank Case vent hose was attached No more oil vapor or splash over gets into the air intake.
Well, wish I saw this video before already having the intake off, had to take a break due to the rain lol. Woulda been nice to try before buying new ones but at least now I know what to do once I finish putting them in.
I understand your grief, This is Why I posted this and many other DIY Videos exposing the Stealership / Mfg Secrets of many items. Hopefully this has helped you Help Others Pass it on and Subscribe to my Channel, Thank You Let me know if you need anything else.
@@cjphillips987 did the procedure after getting the new knock sensors in, still getting p0327 only. Thought for sure it was just a bad sensor, one of them that I pulled had gotten moisture trapped under the plug and it was more rust than sensor. Guess I gotta make sure the wiring back to the ECM from the sensor plug is good, harness was also replaced. Truck runs well, I can’t hear or feel any knock. I know it’s about time for a set of plugs, gonna also do those in case there is any minor knock that I just can’t hear.
@@mxss115 FYI Clear all Codes before Performing Learn / RPM Procedure. I understand the Frustration, The KS's must be Learned to Listen for Harmonic Range of Engine RPM to set a Low to High Standard of listening to the Engine to adjust the Fuel Ratio through the EMC. . After Replacement or Relocating Verify both Wire Harness Connections and each KS's are valid If So you Should not have any issue. Let Me Know
@@cjphillips987checked the KS with a multimeter set to AC at the PCM plug, definitely getting a reading when tapping the valley cover with a screwdriver, so wiring and KS should be good. It’s an 06 Yukon Denali if that changes anything. For the learn procedure, I started up the truck (after clearing codes or disconnecting battery, have tried many times now) and rev it to 5k, hold for 5 seconds as steady as I can, then let it drop to idle, wait a few seconds and do it again, then a third time to be sure, then I go drive the truck. Also tried turning truck on and off between revs, so far after a few mins of highway driving it continues to come back.
If you cannot identify current Engine Code / Codes then it requires process of elimination to locate the root cause and repair or replace for corrective action. Need detailed information of actual conditions
I haven't tried this procedure just yet. I installed Dorman sensors last year and have had the check engine light since then. Right now I removed the sensors and I am comparing them to 6 other brand new sensors. 2 AC Delco, 2 Echlin and 2 Standard Ignition. All eight have 100k ohms. All eight have an alternating voltage range up to 400mv during the tap test. My suspicion is the output voltage isn't high enough. Watching videos of other's doing the tap test, they are seeing up to 1.5v. I'm taping the vise that the sensor is mounted to as hard as others are. My next step is to go to the dealership to buy AC delco from them. The AC delco that I have are form Rock Auto. They have part number stickers on them. Not the embossed numbers like all the photos of oem sensors have. My hope is the dealership sensors will have a larger voltage range. We'll just have to see.
@cjphillips987 the Inside of the Knock sensor hole is stripped like the actual inside the knock sensor threads into , I just bought a aftermarket PLM knock sensor for my 09 Civic Si ( k20z3 motor) And They told me it was for my motor plug n play And I went to put it in and it felt way to tight uncomfortable tight , kept going because they said it was fine Over the phone. It wasn't fitting snug against my block there was a finger nail width distance. So this next morning (today) I went to back it out some and retighten trying to get snug because I was told it should. And Righty tighty because loose fast Now the threads inside the bolt hole are all jagged and The oem broken sensor won't even go in
Ok let me ask correctly Are the threads you are referring to the Original mount position external or hidden under a manifold? Can you See it with out pulling components
so tell me. (ive had the same issue. Totally maddening. I replaced them twice, then my mechanic twice) Is it possible to do this rev reset AFTER you start having the code come up again? Or does it work only after the R&R?
My husband went to repair place who replaced 3 sets of knock sensors 3 times and 3 wire harness. I guess they are extremely fragile and sensitive. Got the GM brand after the first 2 times. One new wire was wired in. Moved to another repair place that had better diagnostic equipment. He tried the RPM fix several times. Nothing worked for more than a few days. After all that they decided to replace the ECM. It's been 1.5 weeks and no codes so far. Fingers crossed.
I have code p0325 on my Honda Civic. I replaced the sensor and the code came back again. Do you reset the code with a scanner first before doing this? Anyone's help would be greatly appreciated!
I reved my 2009 Chrysler Seabring 3.5L. Every time I cleared the code out, it came back soon after if not immediately. After this video I reved to 4k rpms as it would not let me go any further. I drove it around, today too and not knock sensor code was coming on so far so I believe that this also works for my car. Thank you very much for this video. I would literally have to take a lot off my car just to get to my sensor was is right under the throttle body driver side and only the pigtail end sticks out and the sensor is actually deep in side on top the engine. I think its an oil cooler and also you have to drain the coolant out too before taking that off as I understood it in another video.
My husband tried this and it worked for a week. Does it help to do it again & are there any other suggestions? Replaced knock sensors & wire harness twice.
Sorry to hear you are having issues With your information It’s indicating one or both KS’s the connections, wiring or the ECU is the issue. Also when mounting KS’s do not apply anything to the Threads ! They must be metal to metal.
I was wondering have you had any issues doing this setup. Cause i got a 2005 gmc sierra 1500 5.3L going on my 3rd set of knock sensors in 3 months and its getting old taking the intake manifold off & now.
It could be the voltage Regulator, the CPS sensor, the TPS or the Throttle cable too tight …. Is it showing any code? Podría ser el regulador de voltaje, el sensor CPS, el TPS o el cable del acelerador demasiado apretado .... ¿Está mostrando algún código?
I’ve been having an issue where I replaced both knock sensors and knock sensor harness and I’ve been getting the same dreaded code time n time again I’m on my third drive cycle and on my way back home I’ll see the knock sensor code come back up checked wired from pcm to sensor harness everything is good anyone know wat it could be? Really debating on doing the bypass at this point
Question Did you complete the Rev procedure after installation of new KS’s ? If you have and your wiring is good you have an ECU issue. Let me know Thank You 🙏
I did this on my 2002 Chevy Suburban. After replacing knock sensors, P0332 disappeared; but it returned after about 5 miles of highway driving. I cleared codes and followed this procedure and the P0332 has not returned. I noticed that each time I revved to 5000 RPM in P and held it, I heard 3 "dings" from the instrument cluster speaker, which I haven't seen anyone else mention. Does the service manual describe this procedure and the dings? Is that normal?
Morning good to hear it worked for you, however the Ding ? Maybe your ECU’s picked up the door was adjar or Seat belt wasn’t fastened when you Reved it to 5,000 RPM ? Haven’t heard of any Ding Bell before! If under normal driving No Codes Please Like the Video and subscribe to my Channel and Pass on to Others to Help Them! Thank You 🙏👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😎 You did a Great Job, IT’s Fixed !
@@cjphillips987Maybe, I'll try it again and let you know. My P0332 came back after about 50 miles of mostly highway driving. My next idea to try and diagnose is to test the knock sensor pinouts at the ECU for the correct resistance values, to rule out any wiring issues... past that, I'm not sure what to do, besides take it to a mechanic and see if they know something I don't about how to fix this. Do you have any ideas for things I could try?
@@zbzbzbzbzbzbzbzbzb 50% of all KS’s are faulty from the factory, i was informed of this by the Delco engineer I spoke with. If it’s not the KS’s or wiring it’s the ECU faulty Without following the Rev procedure the KS’s will Code for sure.
@@cjphillips987 Wow, 50%? Every guide I've seen says to replace both knock sensors. So if you replace both knock sensors with OEM ACDelco parts, you have a 75% chance that one or both are broken? That's insane. I plan to validate that the resistance between the KS's and (-) is between 93 to 107 K ohms at the ECU. Do you know of any other tests I could do for the faulty KS's?
Replaced both sensors & harness , still getting 0327 #1 bank low input.....I tried your 5000rpm trick and it worked for about 30 miles, but the code came back , I'm going to replace the PCM ..all of the wiring is checking good ....! Thanks
I understand your grief! I spoke with a AC Delco egineer, after a lengthy discussion, He informed me 50% of all Pizo Knock sensors are Faulty right from the Factory. With more research of the KS’s I discovered KS’s are just a Harmonic Noise microphone hence Vibration/ Harmonic microphone listening device , this led me to understand they must be tuned to accept the wide range of RPM noise from Low RPM to HIGH RPM otherwise they give Code constantly. When calibrated to the Wide RPM Range they listen for Knock / Harmonic Vibration out side of adjusted Range, then come on.
@@cjphillips987 How ever their quality control is very bad if that's so ...! Also the gas is being lower quality ( adding more ethanol ) the older tune on the PCM doesn't like it..!
I’m a bit skeptical but since I’ve had the confounded intake off 3 times I’m willing to try anything if I can leave the damned thing on. I just ran the procedure. I’ll take it for a drive and update this when I’m sure they are working properly. Or if the code pops up again. P.S. my truck sounds AWESOME at 5000 RPM. 😁 It worked. See my update below. 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
@@cjphillips987 I’ll be damned. I’m shocked. I can’t believe it actually worked. I can’t thank you enough. I drove about about 20 miles (just a guess. I didn’t check the mileage) the last two times the lite came on at 5 to 15. It hasn’t come on YET. I certainly hope it stays that way. Thanks VERY much. How did you discover that and why isn’t it common knowledge?
@@jimgordon3206 it’s Not Common Knowledge for Sure! Stealerships deffently won’t Confirm it and Do not want any to know it! I Share my Knowledge of Hamonic Engineering with Those Who Listen to Understand vs Listen to Respond. I’m pleased to Know it Works for You, For your Payment I request you pass the Knowledge along, Share Often, Help Others!
@@jimgordon3206 I Thank You 🙏 Please also give a Like and subscribe to my channel, if I’m worthy. Thank You I’m pleased it worked for You! Good Job 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😎
I can't wait to try this after work, i replacement both sensors and about 1 tank of gas later when I was getting on the high way check engine appeared. Scanned it, to my surprise knock sensors FML. Hoping this works!
Hope this works. My 2004 gmc sierra 1500 with a 5.3 I’m the original owner. Had the po327 and the po332. I went to dlr and paid up the ass for OEM knock sensor and the wiring harness. $350. Replaced the intake gasket also. Not included in my $350 . Cleared the codes. Truck runs perfect. The DTC PO327 came back on so I checked the sensors per Alldta. All in spec. Checked the pcm and wires are good. So I cleared it a 2nd time. About 100 miles the light cam back on with PO327 so this time I cleared the codes. Truck at operation temperature. And I held the rpm at 5k for 5 seconds and did it 3 times to be sure. So I will keep you updated. I’m in NC and can’t get it inspected until the not ready codes are set. I’m crossing my fingers. Per Alldata the PCM replacement will be necessary per the pin point test procedure. So I hope this fixes it so I can get my truck inspected. This is the 1st and only time I had a MIL light on other than the worn out gas cap. So I just lubed the gas cap and hasn’t had any codes since except for this one. I put mobile 1 in her after the 1st 600 miles and she’s been a great truck so far. I will update this post after 200 miles
@@cjphillips987 replaced sensors and harness twice, tried the fix in the video twice and after 100mi the engine light pops back on. I even tested resistance on the wires going back to the computer and nothing. Checked continuity while shaking the wires, nothing. Every avenue is a dead end...
@@gunsmoke132 Sorry to hear, if both KS are valid, connectors and wires valid, you cleared codes rev’d and code comes back you either have excessive noise coming from engine or a faulty ECU.
KS and all wiring test good all the way to the ECM. I even put a new ecm on it and still can't get rid of the code. If I figure it out I will post on here. I'm glad it has worked for some.
I have a set in the original position and I have a set relocated on each side. I reset the code and tried it twice but within about 10miles I get the pending codes then restart and another 10 the CEL comes back on. I even tried swapping the banks to see if the code would switch to bank 1 but no luck. Still bank 2 everytime.l
Tried just like you showed and bent my gawdamd TT....jus great! ..waited a week for the friggin gear...now im out more money for a new TT...and another week waitin! 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬
Sad to Hear, When striking the Tail Shaft you must hit it Straight any off angle bends the Aluminum Shafts. The Shaft Shown in the video is Carbon Fiber.
@@cjphillips987 right..lesson learned..just really sucks when ut all geared up to get ur bird back in the air...then summin like that happens...lol like gettin kicked in the sack lol
Well I tried the jumper cable from negative terminal to engine block. I dialed in the TPS to 0. TPS voltage was low but in spec per YDS. I did stationary fuel pump test and fuel came out strong. Yet engine fill not fire. It’s as if when I’m normal operating mode it may not be sending fuel. I have also cleaned and dialectic greased the chip boards in your other video. Injectors are clean. Bought new key fob and paired. So I’ve ruled out the security alarm. I guess I could go back through the 1x1 chip boards in harness and clean up. Btw ECU box looks showroom clean and zero oxidation. I’m a bit puzzled. I do have new coils on the way but I am not sure that’s the issue as it will run off starting fluid or gas droplets into intake. I’m stumped! Would you have any other ideas? Thank You
Well as I’ve watched your other videos it is notable that the bilge pump runs in what I would consider and excessive manner. And it dawned on me that when hooked up to YDS bilge pump runs CONSTANTLY for as long as yds is connected. If I recall though none of the codes showed up for TDS. Now I’m wondering if the bilge is causing an electrical gremlin based on this video. I have to repair the lcd from sun damage but I’d presume this may be my issue?? I do get the temp alarm intermittently on ski but engine temp is well within range on yds
Can you elaborate more on the fuel pump ground you added? I’m having all the hard start no start issues on 2004 fx160. Runs on starting fluid and fuel drilled into intake. But will not run off injectors. (CLeaned all 4 and they are perfect)
Morning Sir, Yes I first had issues with the fuel Pump Pressure. I pulled the Pump cleaned the filter sock and bench tested the Pumps motor and out put pressure showing it was with in specifications. I did not replace it. After reinstall the SKi, suffered for the same condition. I tested the leads and found the Ground was being interrupted / Lost from the Wire Harness intermittently. I then added a single ground wire from the Pumps ground lead to the engine's ground cover cap externally. This resolved that issue. The Ski's other sensors started acting up intermittently........ So I added a 18" ground wire from the Battery to the Bare Block of the engine from the negative Post of the Battery. This resolved all of the issues of the Ski. If I had of added the Ground Strap from the Negative Battery post to the Bare Engine Block initially it would not have been necessary to tap into the Pump ground lead in the wire Harness. Let Me Know if you Need any other information. If this helps Please Pass along the information, Like the video that Helped You and Subscribe to my Chanel. www.Orcapack.com 1-800-887-5040
Thank you So much Sir!! I will try this ASAP! Your videos are amazing and very helpful! I will surely share. I may also need to work on my TPS as you referenced in another video. Would you mind sharing the steps to zero that sensor please? I do have YDS but have not booted it up today to see my reading. Thanks So Much!!
@@Tserfess With your YDS active on your ski, you can view the Actual Setting if out of perimeter , loosen the two TPS sensor bolts, and move / turn the TPS monitoring the TPS setting back into the allowed lower range setting for your Year Ski and lock down the TPS. Then test run see if it starts easier!
