Welcome DIY Community! I'm Jeremy Howell and my channel was started after buying our fixer upper home. I started filming to stay motivated while tackling my DIY jobs and I hope you find inspiration in them as well!
Nice work. Wow those are ancient ballasts. You actually got it backwards, the one with the all yellow sticker is the original and it’s good that the newer one was the one leaking because the older one has dangerous PCB tar in it.
No and no. From what I understand it's mineral oil based. So no crazy odor and no must use outside guidelines. An open window or fan is plenty if using extensively. It takes very little product as well, a little goes a long way.
Thank you, the family is definitely enjoying being able to use the bathroom now! So I normally just work at my own pace nights and weekends type stuff. I think overall was probably about 20-25 hours of work spread over 2 weeks. A small half bath can be done in a weekend if you have all the stuff ready to go. For me we had no clue what we were going to do so like some days would be a couple hours of wall patching then while the joint compound was drying, the wife and I would take a trip to the store to pick out new stuff and any supplies etc. A lot less stressful doing it that way, few hours here and there. Then for like big parts 4-6 hours of work on a weekend day etc plus this way it doesn't completely interupt your normal day to day home life. If you want to get a better idea of the details and timeline I linked the playlist in the description, was a 10 part series and I try to keep my videos in the 5-10 min range.
At 3:58 i wish you would have demonstrated how you wire it up because i bought a similar Fandelier over a year ago and been running it for almost 6 months without the remote being able to control fan speeds but after hearing you talk about wiring setup at 4:06, i decided to unhook the wiring and wah laa.. Its now working 100% with remote. I am now a subscriber. Thanks.
Awesome, yeah, I think I will do a more detailed video on just how to wire in a fan remote and wireless receiver in the future! Thanks for the feedback!
When we moved into our current home I hired someone to install ceiling fans in all the rooms. He installed the cheap blue boxes. Well, here in Texas we run all the ceiling fans 24/7 during the summer. So a couple of the boxes came out from the ceiling and the fans are just dangling. I pulled up this video so my husband can watch it (even though I think, but not sure, he has done this before). I tinker with more simple repairs but am terrified of electrical currents. So hubby said he would replace the boxes this weekend. I’m sure he knows the answer to my question, but don’t want to offend his intelligence: do you turn off power to the room from main breaker? BTW. Great video! Greetings from Texas! 😻
That's unfortunate. Yeah, they need to be fan rated boxes for this reason. I always like the metal boxes as well for fans. Just inspire more confidence, lol. The main breaker will remove all power to the house. You typically don't want to do that. The smaller individual breakers can be used to remove power to rooms or branches one at a time as you work. And then some kinda of verification that the voltage is gone before you touch the wiring. I use a Klein non-contact voltage tester. www.amazon.com/Non-Contact-Detector-Klein-Tools-NCVT1P/dp/B099SJ6469 I'm from the mideast, and we like to run our fans year round, lol.
Highly recommend ordering Westinghouse Safe-T line. I use safe t pans for my entire house: they’re all metal with 70 lb fan rated and 150lb light rated! Even at the highest speed setting my fan doesn’t move at all. If you don’t need a pancake box, you could look at safe t box or safe t brace if you’re in between joists. I only install Westinghouse now. They’re a little more pricy but they’re the best and easiest to work with.
Haha. Yeah, early on, I didn't realize I should make a full how to install guide for this one. I approached it as what I would want to see as I've installed dozens of fans and lights over the years, but the fandelier was new to me, so I approached it that way. Lesson learned!
All the current stuff is too low voltage. Old analog lines could though especially when ringing. If you don't feel safe working on it then don't would be my recommendation.
It will be a 4" circle or octagon box. But that's not the more important factor. What your looking for is that it is listed as a fan rated box, lists the weight it supports and uses the larger #10 screws.
It's just some off white sprat paint I found in the garage that's a close match to my siding. If you don't have the paint I would get some color matched. Online apps can match colors off a picture now. I would have went that route if I didn't have the stuff on hand.
Question - when you screwed the flange spacer down, did you screw it to the original flange or directly to the subfloor (or through the original flange to the subfloor)?
A mix of what your asking but screws were long enough for all to hit the subfloor. IIRC 2 holes lined up with original flange screw holes, if they didn't, I sent the screw through the original flange into the subfloor. I accounted for the thickness of both flanges and my subfloor thickness when I picked up new screws. Also recommended Stainless or galvanized screws.
Mine doesn't dim just has on/off and 3 colors you can switch through. Seems you have a different led controller setup than me. That's a common problem with some led dimmers is not going off all the way. There can be a slight current flow still which allows the leds to glow still when they are supposed to be off. Maybe reach out to the seller see what they say.
Thanks, yeah it's a Ryobi 18 gauge brad nailer. It shares batteries with a bunch of my other cordless ryobi tools. It's great for base boards and trim.
They work with any standard water hose. If your hose ends are damaged currently, causing a leak, just using these connectors likely wouldn't fix the leak.
LOL you never showed us how those hinges snap together! Why? I just bought one of these and it is as cheap as it gets and the hinges will not snap together. And I know if I force them together they are gonna break!
I tend to time lapse parts I find straight foward or easy, something Im working on for my install videos, sorry about that. You do need the door mostly closed or less than 90 degrees open to line it up for assembly as there are stops that limit how far it opens, give that a shot should easily snap in place when oriented correctly. It's Def a cheap piece but worked out great for my location behind the ac condensors where I use the outlet maybe once a year. I like the low profile ones in my other videos for areas I use more frequently. Near front and back doors etc.
Excellent and thank you. I just installed the round mini box, but used blue plastic - DON'T RECCOMEND THESE because 1. the romex/elect line hole extends like 1/2 inch upward causing an issue around the joist (dumb manufacturer and nearly blows the point of having a shallow box-Duh!) 2. they also put micro joist lines of plastic so you can 'line up the joist' dumb again, I had to pull/slice them off to get flush to the joist AGAIN since it is a shall space. I will not choose blue plastic on these in the future - I will use metal. But my question if you have time since we did not see the light/fan install - shouldn't the wire connections fit as much as possible into the box? vs hanging below the elec. box on top of the light/fan section?
No problem. As far as I know the blue plastic "pancake" boxes are new work boxes, intended for new construction. Where as this metal version I used is labeled as old/new work so can be used in new construction or retrofit/remodel. I always look for the term "old work" when needing electrical stuff for remodeling existing stuff. I usually leave as much romex wire and the wire nuts in the box as I can as it's solid core wire and less flexible. But yes most fixtures include a cavity or mount with cover that offers plenty of room to house the wiring as well. In my case the fan/chandelier I installed also includes a remote controller housed in the fixture upper with plenty of room for the wiring. Even the flush mount led light I installed in my bathroom the other day had a cavity to house the wires and wire nut connections, vice having to shove them up in the box so you have options.
Look good man, 'preciate the update. Anyone who knocks these kind of quick fixes doesn't understand the value in restoring that water protection ASAP. It's not really about making it 100% again, just 100% functional.
Nah it's been great, 2 years later now. Here was the 1 year update. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-L2-NghYi6og.htmlsi=FYG5DekHjiRifwxS
If anything would do it this would be the product I'd use. I would sand it well and prime it also try to get the bottom edge of the drywall if you have room between the bottom and flooring.
It's ment to be "floating" according to the directions so not fastened down by any means to the sub floor. The weight and locking in nature gives it its strength to resist movement from foot traffic but allows movement of the building/floor to prevent gaps buckling etc. So not sure how it would fair being taped directly to the floor.
Don't use it on drywall mud patch. Learned it the hard way. It'll cause your top coat to flash even more than the drywall mud. Since it's oil base, your top coat latex paint will stay wet on your spray spot much longer than the rest of your wall, which will result in more flashing.
