Hi I'm Mitch, and I like building things, and understanding why things are built the way they are! I'm here sharing what I learn from my projects, and projects of my builder friends. Subscribe if you care about:
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I have installed click system upstairs and its coming apart everywhere! I payed for decent product as well about 4-5$ a square foot. I think I would go with something nailed in like wood or laminate flooring
Great video - I like these "one year later" videos by the owner as once you lived in the house its a great time to review what you would have done differently. As an owner builder - twice - you are always thinking about what you would do differently if you would do it again knowing that there are a lot of decisions you need to make up front - so you would never build a "perfect" house and I think that is one of the more enjoyable aspects of a custom build and sharing it with others and learning from others. In regards to a basement - I would agree that you don't need open truss design. More than any other floor in the house you know there are going to be internal walls and you know where they are going to be up front. The furnace/hot water heater area and any storage area, any rough in bathroom areas, and any areas with windows that would meet code for a bedroom.
Truss design has 3 criteria for stiffness. Depth of truss, spacing of trusses and grade of lumber used. If you do not want a bounce in your floor, design it better! L360 is a very low design for stiffness. You should have used L480 or L600 for your design if you did not want a bounce. Its not the trusses, its the design. No matter what floor system you use, if not designed correctly will have bounce.
Will i be able to live in one room and have a two story bed in there and rent that out to someone else that way all the costs get covered? Rent to rent to rent
Good to know you. We are selling a rental apartment and the previous tenant was brutal to the old wood floors and cracked tiles in the kitchen. The hardwood floor guy said the damage in places was too deep and the layer of wood too thin to sand and refinish. This weekend the hardwood floor guy came back and installed the VPF, like you, in the living areas and the kitchen. The change was drastic and we are happy with the look. When we gut-renovated our own live/work space 5 years ago, we installed oak hardwood flooring in our kitchen living area and bedrooms. The hardwood floors are super beautiful but the cost was spectacularly more.
I used them in a walk out ranch I built 21 years ago. About 80% of the basement is finished space. What I don't like is the fact that they flex and creak at times when you walk across the floor.
Flooring places make better margins selling engineered hardwood, that is why they are all pushing it. If you can afford it, nothing beats solid hardwood, period.
25 years ago I layed down laminate wood flooring at my mothers house. All types of laminate back then was the glue type, where glue was applied to the tongue of the planks not one of those planks have released or shifted the two areas of the house where you suggest that sunlight has created your problem does not exists at my mothers house. Five years ago I replaced here wall to wall carpet upstairs with click type laminate and within a year i started to see some gapping appear and got worse over the next year, this was in the hallway near the bathroom and other areas in the bedroom. I eventailly sucked out the dirt inside the gaps put glue into the tongue and groove of the planks and kicked planks back into place. I have not seen the gaps return, but new ones have showed up. I think mostly its a expansion contration problem.
Just finishing up building a 4 season home in cottage country (Ontario 1000 Islands). Paid $250K for 2 acre water view (incuded already installed septic, drilled well, and hydro). 1250 square ft. cost $300K to build. I did all the work myself with help from father and brother, so $240 / sq ft. Still have some landscaping to finish off. All in cost will be around $550K-$600K.
Could that issue not be because you are glueing the planks to wood floors? Would it not be that the wood underneath itself is causing the issue? As I’d imagine if you had a concrete base floor that’s been levelled correctly may not have this issue?
I have built a total of 20 houses on my own dime over the years. It was the most enjoyable work I have ever done. I am almost ready to build # 21 in Temecula.
Especially that clip of you jumping up in bed which I know was highly exaggerated should not have that level of noise coming out of the registers. That level of noise indicates there's something very wrong with how your system is tuned and set up. I would advise you or implore you to call Unico themselves and ask them who they feel is a reputable distributor and call them to have it checked out.
You should definitely have your system checked out, maybe not by the people that installed it, because you should not hear the air coming out of the registers on a Unico system. The only way you should be hearing the air coming out of the registers on a Unico system is it's literally everything else in the entire room that makes noise is off.
I have to say that your description of what would happen in a zone system that has normal duct work is absolutely not what would happen. On any system where you have a normal duct layout and zoning you have a bypass air damper that is weighted so that it will progressively open up all the way to 100% when there's just one zone in play. The reason that those Unico systems have a smaller duct diameter is to reduce the amount of insulation that is needed to get a sealed envelope inside of that duct. That allows them to run 250 cubic feet per minute instead of the normal 450 cubic feet per minute per ton of air conditioning at the cost of having to do it at 1.5" in of water column instead of .5" of water column. The biggest reason that people go to these systems aside from having to retrofit house that just plain doesn't have any duct work is because the noise is much less due to moving much less air through each register. If you want to add zoning to your house and have regular duct work there is no issue whatsoever just call a qualified professional to be able to hook you up and you'll reduce your bills pretty quickly
Dude you have a mahogany plywood subfloor and you covet it with vinyl crap😂 how much is the subfloor cost I know a sheet of poplar is 60 bucks mahogany's got to be way more than that woooeeeee. And as far as your shrinking goes you're right on with that UV light and you have a perfect case scenario with your house setup that small room that still has the tight seams has the temperature fluctuations but no UV light. I just left the customer's house has a 3-year-old vinyl peel and stick floor and it looks like garbage. I think it's a product failure with his situation there's no glue in the back of his tiles I pulled up five planks There's a lot of glue on the cement It's just no glue on the tile.
reminds me of the siding they used to use before vinyl siding, on old houses, that id see as a kid.. i dont know what it was called.. probably asbestos siding or something.. usually green for some reason.. the only reason im watching this vid is because james hardie was moving a company nearby, and i was seeing what they made.. my house had wood siding that was repainted over the decades, and then grandpa got vinyl siding thats still on many years later.. i never liked it much, but its held up for a long time now, and ill probably have it till i die.. i doubt id put much money into this old house.. had to reshingle the roof recently.. cant have it raining in the house.. when that stack under the toilet finally crumbles away, i may have to do something about that.. cant have my poop just falling onto the basement floor.. but other than that, im not going to put the least amount i can into this old house.. you know, all these goons building up around my house, making noise and sucking up money.. i could do without them all.. so, i figure if my house gets hit by a tornado or whatever, ill just move somewhere more peaceful.. but yeah, back to the siding.. when they first installed the vinyl siding, i thought it looked pretty cheapo, but gramps was tired of always painting it, and i cant blame him.. its held up for many decades now.. probably a lot longer than that crap you got will.. but i can understand how a person wants a certain look.. vinyl siding does look a little bleh.. and when you push on it, its all moving around.. but hey, what can you expect in the modern age of tarda progression
Thank you for such a thorough breakdown. My wife and I have been contemplating our new floor product and are unsure about LVP even with the salesman talking it up
3:45 I totally agree. In a "modern ranch" or "modern prairie" type of home that I'm envisioning, even though the viewout or walkout basement is very important, I don't think it's SO important that the main level should have flooring issues. And you're not going to have an extremely open basement layout - it's going to be relatively boxy because you want several bedrooms down there as well as a bathroom and kitchenette. I think I'll just do much shorter trusses to ensure the floor of the main level is ultra stiff.
As a flooring installer id say click can be a good option but if its a cheaper variety of it you need the floor as leval as humanly possible and ive come to the conclusion that most of the time should be self levaled or else the lock systems will break where it isnt leval and will be much worse than having gaps like in glue down...also repairs on glue down with scratches etc is a breeze ...was ur floor acclimated before installed?(actually curious about if that could of caused it) To fix your glue down id get a heat gun and heat it up itll expand to fill in the gap and than use some tape to hold it in place while it cools so it stretches and doesnt shrink....cant promise thatll work but it comes to mind as potential solution ...end of the day im on the fence prose and cons to both ...i think if i where to do my house in either or id go glue down for how damm easy it is to fix...id do click only if my budget was big enouph to get self leval and a good quality floor.
When you mentioned "you can crunch down in a tight space" that's when, I realized you don't know anything about your installed systems installation requirements. Also, are you applying 6 to 7 vents per ton of a/c. ...may I guess, Nope!
This was very interesting. We were wondering if we had been scammed by our contractor because maybe he had used inferior vinyl tile or that he put them down wrong. But now it appears that this is just the way stick down vinyl planks act over time. It is still so much better than carpet and the main reason we chose it was price, so we got what paid for I guess.
Also can fill the crack in tha laminate click... Unika sell a filler... same one used for kitchen work top that goes off hard... wont be invisible but better than it is now... lot less noticeable.
All those full length windows should have been blanked off before fitting... then use High Temperature adhesive... then gradually remove the blanked off windows about 48 hours later... youe LVT was installed incorrectly.
It’s important that the flooring material acclimates in the room it being installed for a minimum of 5 days before installation. Also, spread the boxes out around the room. Don’t leave them stacked while acclimating. I have probably installed over a million square feet of this stuff and haven’t had any issues
I have some gaps in my vinyl floor. I used black silicone to fill them. Looks okay and I'm hoping it will flex with the floor and not deteriorate too much over time
