Rock climbing, especially trad multipitch is my passion. I want to share my adventures with other climbers and all the people who are intrested in watching. Most of the videos on this channel will be shot as person of view, which I think to be the best way to share and to get as close as possible to the the real climbing experience.
I hope that you enjoy my videos as much as I enjoy making them.
You used a micro traction on one of the placements. I've not seen that before. Can you please tell me more about why? Or point me in the direction where I could learn more?
Hi. That's used for simul climbing, so if the second falls, he won't pull the leader down. Probably I should have used two actually, because there's two ropes.
You should not extend it, it will follow the rope up when you climb. If your follower falls you will get his weight on you and potetially get pulled off. Which is what the micro is there to prevent. Same goes for ropestretch when you climb with doubles. Simuel is fun and safe when done right, this is not it😅 Brent Berghahn has a greate article on the subject.
I also run with two ropes like you. I'm trying the Taz Luv 3 as a primary and Shunt as the back up. Both go up smoothly and have the benefit that when you want to descend you don't need to change anything - i.e. they both have a descend operation. Means you can easily go up and down hard sections and removes the slight risk associated with changing devices.
I have been thinking about buying Taz LOV just for that reason. It's sometimes frustrating if you're projecting one section of the route and you need to change the device to lower yourself. However, I'd reconsider using Shunt as a backup device as it's said not to be suitable for self belaying by Petzl.
Vi havnet på villspor i tåka der for mange mange år siden (1996?). Når du står på tredje båndet og ser noen meter til venstre for innsteget på ruta så går det et rakt riss opp i et "mini" dieder. Fantastisk klatring men temmelig vedvarende første taulengde slik jeg husker det. Når du klatrer, hvis du kunne hevet hodet og sett oppover så langt som mulig av og till ville vært gull. Da får vi se mer av hvor du skal og hvordan formasjonen ser ut. Selvsagt en avveining av egen klatreopplevelse og hvor høyt en skal prioritere filmingen :-)
Thank you for your comment! I could try to look more up while climbing. It's just easy to forget because the camera is tilted quite down, so I have to really tilt my neck back to get the whole route in the picture.
@@mkclimbing Did you cross the gap by some other means or did you rappel directly from the big horn? I was there in the early 2000s and the gap indeed was narrower then. The jump was still a bit exciting because of the incline of the big horn and I was also worried that I may overshoot the jump and fell of of the little horn, but it was then quite easy actually. My friend led the last pitch and was belaying on the little horn. Thanks for making the videos! I have already watched several of them and have enjoyed them a lot.
We rappelled straight from the big horn, so no need to do the jump. I'm happy to hear that you enjoy watching my videos. That really means a lot to me.
Cool! Do you use offset cams often - 5:05? I bought a couple of offset cams for testing the other day, (🤓) but I have not climbed on them yet. I feel they could come in handy in Norwegian cracks, but curious if I should carry them on every climb.
Not that often. Actually I don't have any, that offset was my friend's. I'm thinking about buying some. They sure come in handy in many situations and climbs. I would carry those on a multi-pitch especially if I knew the route is not easily protected.
Thank you for making these videos! I really appreciate following your different climbs while waiting for the outdoor climbing season - pitch for pitch. The videos seem pretty much "uncut" - making it possible to really follow along. Normally everybody keeps over-editing climbing videos - which I find annoying😆 I especially like how you include everything in the videos - including the process of how you choose and place gear, and setting up belay stations - sometimes changing your mind, and going for another placement or piece👋 ..and all this without any annoying "cool" music in the background🥳 Pure climbing noises, together with what I guess is the occasional Finnish swearword or comment-to-self while climbing😃 Cudos from Norway to my favorite climbing channel💪
Thanks @tomemick, you're welcome! I really appreciate your comment! My idea is to try to share the climbing experience as a whole including all the struggles and anchor buildings, and that means editing them as little as possible. I'll try to filter out the worst coursing and 10 minutes of the same pro placings though 😂. Nice to hear that there are people that like it that way too. The sound of the tinkling gear is the best music.
Really enjoy watching you lead climb! Are there pitches past this point? Also, I noticed your anchor is just one sling, it is technically not redundant, correct? It looks safe, but still
Thank you for your comment. There's one pitch left. Well you're correct. That anchor ain't redundant, in the sense that there's only one sling, but it's still an acceptable way to make an anchor. You just want to be sure that the rock that you put the sling over does not have any sharp edges.
If you mean cam, I used 0.4 dm dragonfly which is like a bit smaller than bd cam. Also placed one .75 z, but only because I didn't see the bolt right next to it.
Not sure if you're looking for pointers, but you can keep that bartack on the anchor sling out of the way by cloving the sling to the top carabiner. Also, you could use the two carabiners from the alpine draw on both of the top two nuts, saving yourself the quickdraw you used in the anchor.
Great video, and it looks like an amazing route. One question though. The 4th gear placement, 4 minutes in. It's a cam with green carabiner. It didn't look like a good placement. Is that just the weird perspective of the GoPro or is there something else about the placement I'm missing? I'm not criticising, I love watching your videos because I get to learn from someone more experienced. Saw it and felt I was missing something.
Thank you for your comment! Sometimes it looks like some placement is not good on the video, even tought it is, but this is not the case. You're right, that's not a good placement, but I think it wasn't terrible either, becuse othervise I probably wouldn't have left it like that. I guess I was getting a bit pumped already so I decided to leave it and keep going.
the same happened to me in 2022, I was expecting a 5b but I kept falling. thank god I didn't lead that pitch. afterward somebody told me that the original pitch (5b) is more on the left. what do you think about the grade? I think 6b
If I remember correctly, we climbed the most left line there. There was at least one parallel line on the right side. I'd say it's 6b. On 27 Crags it's graded 6b+.
I prefer a bit overcammed over undercammed. One size smaller would have propably been too undercammed by my standards. But yeah I get what you mean. The size of this crack just felt to be so in between two sizes.
I’m pretty new to trad. At 4:00, is that placement considered good enough? My understanding is it’s quite over cammed. Was it a case of ‘that’s all I had that would fit’, or is over camming acceptable to take a fall? Thanks
Hi good question. I personally prefer over camming over under camming. I think .75 would have been too under camming for that place. I also try not to use all the same size cams if possible, like here the previous pro was a .75 cam. (I had a double rack)
Great vid! I noticed you went up the whole corner instead of turning right a few meters above the old, grey sling. What do you think the grade is when climbing the corner all the way up?
Maybe don't post on social media until you have the system dialed in, lest someone inexperienced gets the wrong idea that it's easy. Also, why do none of these videos show redirecting the line with draws or cans, or protecting edges with rope pro. This is where people will go wrong trying to imitate what they see on RU-vid.
Hi. Good that you mentioned... This is not an instructional video as said in the video description. This video is about my first experience of TRS as said in the title of the video.
7 minutes in and I’m routing for that number 4 walnut. So far it’s almost been placed 3 times but a 3 and a 5 won. Edit: Ah wait there was a 4 earlier. Just doubles
Two things. This wind is disturbing (like on runway). Question: why are you using hand ascender as chest ascending device? You could use something much smaller.
Hi. Good question. I like the ascender as a primary belaying device because you don't have to use any extension like a dogbone or sling to connect it to the belay loop.
I previously used a left-handed ascender too, and I liked it for the same reason as you do. You don't need an extension from your harness (because the handle serves that purpose) and it works great with a chest harness because of the top hole for a carabiner. It worked perfectly when using a single rope and two devices. But sometimes when using two ropes, the other rope would get jammed/caught in the cam on the open side of the ascender. Usually it wasn't a big deal because it didn't get stuck hard and I could just pull it out instantly. But it tended to happen in overhanging situations when I needed to climb quickly and it was annoying to make the extra move to free the rope. I had already decided I was going to switch it out for a Micro Traxion but made the commitment after the rope got caught when I needed to make a deadpoint and then a couple of hard moves and I couldn't get a hand free to fix it. Now I use a CT Rollnlock and a Micro Traxion. I might switch to two Micro Traxions. PS: I didn't find the sound of the wind to be bothersome at all.
That sounds interesting. I have never had that problem. Maybe it's because my ascender is right handed. 🤔 Or maybe I just have not done that much TRS on overhang. PS. Actually that's not wind. The sound comes from a highway. But anyway I'm happy that it didn't bother you. 😄
Hi! Usually I try to avoid clipping the belay rings, but on these anchors I think the hanger loops were so small that it would be hard to clip directly to them.
Nice work! .. Here's what I would add .. in your single rope climb - you added the gri-gri before removing the first device (good) but removed your 2nd device (11:45) without testing the gri-gri first. If, for some reason, the gri-gri didn't engage, you could be in trouble. By the time you leaned back to test it you were not backed up. Remember this principle - always add before you remove. So a few things you could have done - I'll cover two options that would have been quick and easy - only a few seconds more. Option 1 Before removing the 2nd device, add a catastrophe knot below the gri-gri (you add before removing). Option 2: Step on your sling using a prusic, and sling your Traxion (above the sling you're standing on) to your harness with a bit of slack (this is your backup) (add before removing). Now you can remove the Ascender and weight-test the gri-gri and make sure it's engaging well. Also, lowering on the gri-gri is meh! A lot of people do it .. I'd use my ATC and rap down with a prussic. When you lower on the gri-gri, you're not backed up. And per the comments below, yes, always have a few extra pieces of self-rescue gear on hand and practice using it. Have fun!
Thanks for the comment and good advice! Rapping down with ATC is also a good option, but personally I prefer using Grigri if I have a fixed rope, just because it's easier.
Often you walk around the wall so you can walk to the top then you can set up anchors and other systems. There might be other methods but this is what I've seen.
@@mkclimbing I can attest that Yann Camus of Blissclimbing has a great course on both TRS and LRS. I'm sure you've run into his videos in your research.
I do quite a bit of top rope solo, make sure to bring a long sling and a prusik for anything vertical or overhanging. Been stuck dangling in the air more than I’d like admit
Thanks for a good piece of advice. On the video I wanted to try using the secondary belay device to get the primary device unweighted. It worked too but in case something weird happens, it's good to have a prusik also, and a sling of course.
Great vid but i have one question: what is the purpose of clipping in with multiple ropes, and alternating between them? I'm relatively new to multipitch and would love at least some keywords to google for this
Hi there! Great question. I'm using half ropes on this climb. Half ropes are normally used in trad climbing to avoid rope drag when the line is not straight or you can not place protections on a straight line. In this case the bolt line is relatively straight, so you can just clip in one rope to one bolt and the other rope to the next bolt and so on. The main reason why I chose to use half ropes over a single rope in this case, is because we climbed in party of 3. In that case the leader always climbs with two ropes and the two second climbers climb with one rope. You could use two single ropes also, climbing with one rope and hauling the other rope. However single ropes are more heavy than half ropes because half ropes are skinnier. In google you can find more information about half ropes (double ropes) and single ropes (and twin ropes).
