Official RU-vid Channel of the GORE-TEX brand. Sharing videos on our brand, products, new and innovative technologies, How to's (e.g. wash & care for your products), experiences and inspiration from our partners and athletes. Enjoy stunning and breathtaking videos with great experiences outdoor and outside.
Im Video sagt Ihr, dass man wasserbasierte Imprägniersprays verwenden soll und ich habe grade gesehen, dass das Imprägnierspray von Imprägnol (das mit dem grünen Deckel), welches ich bis jetzt verwendet habe, auf Wachsbasis ist. Jedoch soll es auch atmungsaktiv und für Goretex geeignet sein. Was stimmt nun? Habe ich meine Schuhe eventuell jetzt schon beschädigt?
Should you experience any issues with the waterproofness of your GORE-TEX jacket or have any trouble with its care instructions, please contact our Consumer Service team for assistance under our GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOU DRY promise: bit.ly/2ZKgLYG
I have bought an used arcteryx acto fl jacket and water bleeds into it, it says its dwr but im not to sure, should i buy an spray or wash for this, Thanks!
We would recommend to try and reactivate the DWR treatment by washing the jacket with only water (no detergent) and two consecutive dryer cycles afterward. If that didn't do the trick, try reapplying a DWR product by following the instructions on the product's packaging. Otherwise, kindly contact Arc'Teryx for further assistance.
Just a comment: I have had jackets since 1990, more than 30 years. The "DWR" rubbed off after 2 weeks of use on every type of jacket, Gore-tex and not. So I used Nikwax in the first instance. It became very white and quickly dirty. Why? Because I used too much. Use too little and it will not restore DWR. Also tumble drying I think is a bad bad idea. Ruining the fibers of the jacket, folding breaking it everywhere. Why don't you just place it in the drum of a washing machine, and use a hair dryer to blow hot air, then close the door on the drum. Effect will be the same. Also using the iron is again dangerous. First, how do you know the temperature is good and will not unpeel the plastic seals? Did you know that recently gluing is made so that threads can be saved? Glue will give away after some time while threads will not. I used MCNet to reglue the wall hanger of my jacket, which suddenly gave away... Were it sewed, it would have stayed. Also when proofing the jacket a light heat does help. However DRW WILL COME OFF. All that rant about reactiviting is a half-solution. The real thing is that if you want your clothes to be 90% good as factory, you will have to do 2 stages. First get a DWR that is NOT thick and white like Nikwax, which is appx 60% effective in keeping the waterdroplets running on the surface after 5-10 minutes. The ad shows water running. Yes. But water does not run on you. It FALLS on you, STAYS on you and the surface pressure to keep water away needs to be maintained. Nikwax does this ONLY if you put a ton on the jacket, which will change color due to the wax and will get dirty. Did you try the wax on a dark jacket? Try it an see white, grey spots all over. If you heat it the wax will flow and disappear into the fabric. Go for a walk, and the wax will come out, break and white streaks will appear where you fold the jacket. This is quite waterproof 80%, but unattainable and ugly. So what you have to do is get a proper DWR that is NOT WAX based. German, Swiss brands will do. A wash-in is a must. So I dilute the wash in only 50% and I spray on my garment with a hand held pumper. No Waste! Then I get the hairdryer and dry it half. Next place the garment into the dryer or the drum of the washing machine and continue blowing heat. Turn the drum once in a while to get heat everywhere. Once done hang you jacket. Modern DWRs-are ACTIVATED through heat. That means that the structure of the stuff will change and start hating water. Not Nikwax. It is just diluted wax. If you add too much, it will fail because of dirt. The other stuffs if you add will not color your jacket much, AND will ACTIVATE and WILL HAVE A TON OF DRW. Finally depending on the jacket you may experiment with sprays from the same brand. The thing is a thin layer of spray-on DWR on the soaked in DWR will make sure that the garment is 90% factory quality. Why? because if you just use the spray, it will not penetrate deep enough, while bouncing off the garment most of the stuff. If it penetrates, then still it is not as durable typically as the solution-based pumper wash-in. Imagine the wash in as a crude soluble crystal that is half melted on the top layer. You add a higly soluble solution to make the surface mirror smooth. Sometimes the spray-ons will work differently against the wash-in, so make sure you experiment a bit on a different garment. But if you get it right, you can make a proofing that will not suck up water after 20 minutes of good rain. Unfortunately the advertisements do not show reality, but some lab sequence that is far from reality. In reality, you stretch, rub, soil the garment. How could the DWR stay on unless the very fibers of the cloth are water hating? That is why DWR has to be very soluble, heat activated, and penetrating. Unfortunately Nikwax is not so soluble. And once its there it is bulky meaning that the wax is not flexible enough. If you use silicone-based stuff, then you kill your jacket, and sprays could also mess with the glue in your jacket. So water soluble heat actived DWR is a must. Oh, I have a jacket bought in 2010-is that still has the DWR I placed in it. Ok, did not use too much, but can take 30 minutes of rain before wetting out. That is saying something. I also ruined several garments but either using the iron on a hot setting making the glued parts come off, sucking up DWR with the cloth under the iron..., and stuff, even making a hole into the garment when I forgot to use the cloth... I managed to peel off the glued pocket due to the solvent in the sprays... So never buy something that is glued. That means it is simplified for manufacturing, bound to fail. Even shoes have their laces sewn to the leather for good reason. So finally the truth: Nikwax works best for polar sweaters, with mushy fibers, not thin jackets. Oh, and if you want a rain jacket, get the one that has the thin outside material, which will dry fast, because it will not suck up water much. That is the trick. And if you want to avoid clammy feeling in rain, get a size bigger jacket and breathability is 50-100% more!
Thanks for taking the time to note down all your thoughts on this topic. ℹ First of all, it is very important to always check and follow the care instructions of your individual garment, which can be found on the sewn-in tag on the inside. ⚠ We strongly advise against using a hairdryer as that might damage the garment. Since heat needs to be applied to the garment in order to reactivate its DWR treatment, we recommend using either a tumble dryer or an iron. When using an iron, place a thin towel or cloth in between the iron and the garment for protection. Use a low setting and no steam. For detailed care instructions click here: bit.ly/3x7eCop 🧴 Both wash-in and spray-on DWR solutions are available on the market. For them to be effective, it is important to follow the instructions that you can find on the product's packaging. ❔ If unsure, please contact the manufacturer of your GORE-TEX garment in order for them to recommend a specific care/DWR product for your individual garment. 💪 Finally, we test all of our products in the lab as well as in the field with our valued athletes. For details click here: www.gore-tex.com/testing
@@GORETEXBrand Thank you for your comments. Been there, done that. In the past years I have gone through at least 10 jackets of various brands. Would be preferable if a real-world usage is shown instead of the lab, where the athlete or mountain trekker actually has mud, slime and rain on the jacket, goes home washes the garment, reproofs it and looks at how it performs afterwards. Then goes on a trek again.... That shows how the garment DWR actually rubs off and how the reproofing needs to be done. That would sell the knowledge and the product.
This is great. For a jacket: Can I use a washer with an agitator in the middle or is that too harsh? And one concern: Am I coating the inside of my dryer with the DWR/waterproofing? I don't want it to affect other clothes. Thanks!
In regards to washing machines with an agitator, we would recommend contacting the manufacturing brand of your jacket in order to make sure that they are safe to use. We generally recommend using the most gentle cycle on a regular washing machine for all GORE-TEX garments. While we do advise drying your GORE-TEX jacket in a separate cycle without any other garments, the DWR treatment does not leave any noticeable residue and it does not rub off on other garments in later dryer cycles.
Red gore tex winter jack was hella of a pain to wash in my old washing machine. After some years i got a brand new machine wich had outdoor option. I couldnt never get the dirts out of it. But with outdoor cycle was a breeze. Fucking love siemens machines
Shells with the GORE-TEX PRO Most Breathable technology have an RET value of <6 RET. Earlier versions (before FW20) and products with GORE-TEX PRO Most Rugged and Stretch technology have an RET value of <13 RET.
Shells with the GORE-TEX PRO Most Breathable technology have an RET value of <6 RET. Earlier versions (before FW20) and products with GORE-TEX PRO Most Rugged and Stretch technology have an RET value of <13 RET.
Other options: give guide similar belay, client(s) stay put no anchor & no guide belay, guide takes up coils and everyone moves off together, so many possibilities all dependent upon party members, terrain, context at the moment, ad naseum. Not to mention sling and carabiner on the horn, again dependent upon the many variables
