The procedure was helpfull, but isn't all that is required for my 2013 F-150. There is a small shield on the back of the engine that needs to be relocated (remove 1 screw and loosen the other to get it out of the way), before the fabric can be folded up. Even with the fabric folded up, you still need to loosen 2 transmission mount nuts on the cross member and jack up the transmission to get the required clearance.
I have a playlist of several videos on the Lotus when I owned it. check it out, maybe there is something there that might help you out😉 ru-vid.com/group/PLnU5UPnn9I1ZyJHG1ZFFIyTPPkHn0b8Ka&si=RMdtDaL9PWlb0T3L
Thanks so much for this video. The driver door 'button' on my 2012 is really hard to press. It does open the door but I feel before too long it will not work. Any thoughts? I've read (online) that cleaning or lubricating the button will help. Any suggestions other than taking the door apart and investigating the button itself?
@@LemmeTryFixIt its best to replace them in pairs. Usually if one goes you probably have a few weeks until the other follows. Amazon sells good bulbs for cheap and they last for years
Question, will your condenser fans spin if the low pressure switch is bad? My clutch isn’t engaging and isn’t getting power but the condenser fans are running. Relay and fuses are good. Magnet/ground is good. Freon is good. I’ve narrowed it down to bad compressor, switch, or a short in the wire.
I’m about to try and do this myself I guess little nervous about it same truck so I might keep coming back to these comments to ask you hope I’m not bothering you much but realistically how hard was it to pull the cab engine and everything else needed to weld on the new frame I’m planning on doing it in a couple weeks but this is the only video I can find like this so it’s my only source of info right nks
It's not all that bad of a job, but you need to remember, you are going to need some pretty specialized tools. You definitely are going to need a lift! Not only a lift, but once you get the cab off and roll the frame away you need somewhere to get the cab out of the way. Same with the bed, same with the engine and transmission gas tank exhaust, there is a lot that needs to be moved out of the way.
My car is a CDI diesel, so I'm not really aggressively driving. Although on the interstate, and highways, the ride is smooth, I have noticed no significant tire wear on the car since installing these.
Hello, good morning to you. It's being 3 years since this video. Did you put in new rear tire?. Did this adjustable camber arm fixed your tire wear?. Did you have another alignment for past 1to 2 years?. Any changes more than 0.2 degree? Your rear camber value is within -1.5 to -1.7 degree. I am thinking that your toe value might be well above 0.25 degree for this type of wear. How many miles since this installation?. Regards
I am not sure of the measurements, but I know my tire wear completely stopped. After installing them, I took it immediately to a local suspension shop, and had them dial in the adjustments. My car is e320 CDI, So I'm not really aggressively driving the car. Mostly interstate and highway driving. The stock control arms use a rubber bushing that wears out, this is all solid, so should last the life of the car and my CDI has almost 300k miles
Local salvage yard not to far from my home. What you might try is www.car-parts.com. That's a salvage yard site that you select the part you are after and it sorts by distance. Good luck sir!
@@LemmeTryFixIt that site is amazing! found a stripped Raptor with a frame in good condition in the same state as me for $650! I'm going to head up there this weekend and check it out thank you so much man!!
You are going to order a new motor for a plastic gear? Hilarious. Saw another video that a comment or said that two 1/4-20 nuts will work for each blown out plastic bushing, so 6 per motor. I did it and it works fine.
for the 2011 5.0, If this sensor is bad it could be the solenoids too. I just took the valve cover off and replace the solenoids and both sensors from the top. The intake cam sensor has the clearance, the exhaust sensor is tight and requires some adjustments and leverage to take out. The 5.0 is quick to take the valve cover off. The issue with just swapping the sensor is that it could be the solenoid for the cam and not the sensor. If the solenoid fails to mechanically work, the computer things X timing and the sensor reports Y timing, then throws the code for the sensor. Just replace them all. Just be happy its the coyote 5.0 and not the 5.4 triton as that more complicated and harder to work on.
