This actually helped me a lot. I went through all me jumpers and soldered each one, mostly to practice soldering. This helped my circuits immensely. Now I crimp and solder my own, with 22g stranded tinned copper, and I've never had problems, even with high frequency circuits.
Thanks for the video. Short question. To remove an IC in case of a densely populated board, it's a bit hard to use a hot air gun without blowing off tiny neighbors. Would you recommend rework station tweezers together with pickup, or would the pickup rubber could melt die to the heated component? Thanks again.
Yes, that is a recurring problem lol, The ways I have solved it in the past have been to use Kapton tape to "Tape" down surrounding components, this works very well, other techniques include adding tin shields between the target component and devices to be protected, especially things like connectors and other plastic parts that can easily melt if not shielded .
The moisture can dip also in water don't keep it in moisture it's gonna corode en it slightly is different by the drivers elegoo uses a different ic then Arduino
hi ! I am using ic TPS92512 to design a led driver voltage regulator circuit The input voltage is 24Vdc I connected 7 LEDs in series, and there were 7 parallel branches I need it to operate at an output voltage of 2A for the led power block. Hope everyone can support me! I need to calculate the values R1,R2,R3,R4,R5,R7
Are there any events happened before this sound appeared, has this board been working or has it always done this. the only place I can think of were a sound would come from is the coil in the actual convertor
@@TheBreadboardca it was working really good before but we start to drecrease the Vin to study the stability in Vout and then when we try to increase Vin again it starts to do a sound abd Vout seems like being cortocircuit with Vin
For better control the delay needs replacing with a state table and elapsed time calculation. This allows for events to take place during the pause between steps.
Hi. I bought one of these volt\ammeters. I has a voltage adjustment pot, but no amperage adjustment, although in the description it said it had both and it even had pictures of the PCB showing both pots. Ironically, the voltage measurement is quite accurate but no the current. Is there any way I can increase the accuracy of the ammeter?
often the volts range is directly measured by the CPU on the board, with a divider network of course, the adjustment will just tweak the divider ratio. The current if often measured by a small ADC external to the CPU, it is programmed by the CPU and unless your able to re-program the device is pretty much fixed. Having said that, the SHUNT (Small piece of thick wire usually ) could be adjusted by filing or soldering to its surface to adjust its value. The adc is measuring the voltage across the shunt . It is often the case were the description of a device does not match the reality of what you received. especially if there made and bought from "Overseas" at a budget price.
@@TheBreadboardca Ha! Mine doesn't even have a metal shunt like the one on the video. Of course, in the pictures it has a shunt (lol). The one I have has one big 16 pin chip (unmarked) and a voltage regulator. There's a "big" R018 smd resistor near the ammeter connector, though. Could that be the "shunt"?
@@peddersoldchap Yes, most lightly it is. it would be under 1ohm in most cases and the more current it is rated for, the lower this value would be to keep heat dissipation down, most lightly it is in the milli ohms range..
Hello! You mentioned at approximately 11:20 all you need to pick the controller board is resolution, number of pins, Channels and bits and voltage supply. So if I found a board with that criteria matching but the title of the board says "Controller board kit for xxxxxx" where xxxxxx is not my display name will it work? ( My display is CLAP070WP03XG which is 40pin 8-bit 1 channel 3.3V)
I am way behind the times here. I appreciate your video helped a lot! the only issue i am having is the auto marlin is exporting firmware.elf and firmware.hex files instead of a .bin file? any advice?
I want to build an all in one sorta thing, like i have a Laptop Display, a Raspberry pi 4 and hard drive, maybe like 3d print a Enclosure and design it around the screen and everything idk how to start other than get a Controller board for the screen
Do you know where I can find someone who can help me design a custom LCD controller board for the Nintendo 3DS's screens? A million thanks if you would. Willing to pay a low budget.
Hi Peter, My partner Jacqui has a long arm quilting machine that i have automated with Mach3 (many brownie points gained 😃) Also I have automated some of the house using Shelly and Home Assistant and love it. Cheers Dave.
LOL, My wife Nora also has a Long Arm but I have not yet automated it, did you post details on your automation (I would love to get more points :) ). I did provide Martin Jerry switches providing zoned lighting across the sewing room (Cutting, Quilting and general sewing. And the longarm itself of course). The one rule I have to follow is, sure I can automate it but there must always be manual traditional backup for when not if things dont work lol.
Hi Peter, I have just been gifted two of these displays and hope to integrate one into a dual rale power supply. Have lots of time now I am retired with lots of projects in mind. Thanks for your videos that are still of value many years after you made them. Cheers Dave.
Glad there of use still after all these years, yes those displays are very easy to program for a number of cool uses. A power supply display is a good choice.
Hello, i have a Dell Precision 5520 that comes with a touch 4k Sharp IGZO screen, i have the same exact model panel but the matte non-touch revision, it passes and powers the Dell screen diagnostics test but wont show the bios or boot into an operating system. Im using a non-touch 40pin LVDS cable but i think there might be a misconfigured pinout since the 5520 was never offered with a matte non-touch screen. Do you know of a way to find the pinout for the Dell Precision 5520 motherboard?
What you need is the exact model of the led display, the details are typically printed on the back of the display panel. With this info you can Google the details. If the display is typical then the pin out should be standard. But a 4k display will probably have at minimum 2 channel but probably more. Post the display model and make if you can't find the details and I'll have a quick search and see what I can discover for you
@@TheBreadboardca Its the Sharp LQ156D1JW33 thats the exact model but they offer both matte and non-touch, in the Thinkpad world the pinout for touch/non-touch is slightly different and Dell never offered a non-touch version of the Sharp LQ156D1JW33 but whats strange is Dell themselves used the Sharp LQ156D1JW33 to make their own custom display assembly infused behind glass where they added the touch feature to this panel themselves somehow. So i was hoping to find the pinouts so i can make the matte version work since the glossy screen hurts my eyes. Bliss computers sells the matte/glossy non touch Sharp LQ156D1JW33 and advertises it as compatible but its seems i need an LVDS cable that doesnt exist.
@@jakkiryanov9859 As I suspected, this display has a different interface, it uses eDP not LVDS, The eDP interface allows higher transmission speeds as opposed to LVDS cables. eDP also uses less conductors on your cable design reducing space and possible cost depending on the design. Another benefit of eDP cabels is that they allow you to easily connect your source (such as a person computer) directly to an LCD. hwew is the details on panellook.com www.panelook.com/LQ156D1JW33_Sharp_15.6_LCM_overview_34287.html so an LVDS adapter will not help here, you will need one supporting eDP, so far I have not rtied any as I have not come across a display needing one. I hope it helps.
@@TheBreadboardca I think something that would make a good video, especially for beginners is component selection for precision voltage and current regulation. For me the op-amp specifications were difficult too differentiate. I've spent hours on Newark while googling slew rate and the like.
Hello, I have a problem with my Eachine ev300d. The image is cut off on the right side and below. Which changes the view to the center. But in the DVR recordings it is shown in full. How could I solve it? Beforehand thank you very much.
if this just happened then it sounds like your eye displays ( there are two, one for each eye) have moved, maybe with the headset getting knocked or dropped etc. if the recording is ok then it shows the issue is not from the camera or transmitter end. if this is how it is from new then it maybe your eye positioning (FIT), on later use i did get the sense it was sometimes a little finicky to get optimal view.
It's been 8 years on since this video was uploaded. None of the wise guys in the electronics world who have seen this and commented here till today has pointed out a mistake made while measuring resistance in the milli-ohm range.............Our Great Guy here is A Shunt to the actual resistance being measured , because his finger tilps are in contact with both prongs of the multimeter. !!!! So much for the electronic buffs here !
The part about 14 mins in is were i see myself "Shunting" the Shunt resistor, considering the value of the shunt is in the milli ohms (0.025Ohms) the human body resistance is something in the kOhms (even 10K is very low for a body) will have negligible impact on the reading ( 1/Rt = 1/Shunt + 1/body ) = 1/0.025 (40) + 1/10,000 (0.0001) = 1/40.0001 = 0.0249999ohms. I hope this is self explanatory in response to your comment. Am I shunting the value... yes, significant in any way... no. if this was a resistor of several K then it will be more significant and as its value increases, the affect is more so, but as I said, in this case it is not relevant. I do appreciate your comment though and thanks for the opportunity to educate a few viewers that may have thought the same thing and just not said anything.
@@TheBreadboardca Thank you for this response....all ways good to hold bare wire when taking ANY reading ( wether negligible difference in read value than the exact value ). is what is stated in your reply. So...how about measuring milli-volts just your way !!! Next...upscale and try wall outlets........Bare finger tips, Of Course !!! Education ???
@@NavinBetamax Your twisting my words ?, measuring an un powered milli ohm resistor using your fingers to keep the wires on the probes is not at all the same as sticking your fingers in a live socket, if the person doing the measuring is not aware of basic safety etc then they should not be using the meter.
great video. just wondering, i am trying to use two arduino unos as both my transmitter and receiver and currently, i am just trying to send a string between the two rylr896 modules before actually sending data from another module. But my receiver is not receiving anything and my transmitter seems to be sending a lot of garbage values instead of the string itself based on the serial monitor. I am using the voltage divider set up to drop the voltages from the RX and TX pins to 3.3V, and i am also using Software Serial. Do you have any idea of where the issue could be? Any response would be appreciated.
I have tronoxy x5sa but Why the proximity sensor not work with me it look like didn't save the z offset can any one help me ? And can I change the frameware in this printer or no please help .
Yes, that defiantly could be a faulty psu, but a lack of ground would not cause it, as it is the current going through the ground that would cause the gfci to teip
Good day I could change the date and time stamp on the PLC. But if i cycle the power on the Unit it shows the old date. Any advice will be appreciated.
It has been a while but it is very possible there is a command that sets the system date time, and probably a different one to set the hardware clock date and time, some newer systems will do both together but not all, I think this may be such a case. I had never tried this myself during my reviews. I hope that helps stear you in the right direction
I don't use mine every day but I put in some Duracell batteries after I reviewed and am still using them now. I replaced the ones that came with it as I have more confidence in the duracells
You would loose some of the colors, I don't think the controller or screen tries to reconfigure to use a single Channel, you can buy just a 2 channel cable quite cheap, just make sure it has the right connector
Just discovered these today, and I am very excited to try these out. Looking to incorporate some of these units into a fun game for the kids to simulate an industrial control console complete with lights and sound.
