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This is one of the only videos I can find of this model bow. I like that it's longer than 60". How does it perform with string walking using the shelf? I tried using a 20 yd fixed crawl and shelf with my vintage 50lb Bear Kodiak Hunter and the arrow would bounce so hard off it I could not tune. I ended up using a stick on Bearpaw Super rest to solve this. It dramatically changed my nocking point to something civilized. I'm looking at this bow in 40-45 lb and hoping the extra 2" length will help. Good luck!
Great for string walking but my fixed crawl was 25 and 44 at the nock. It’s a solid bow. Tune is finicky but doable. Watch limbs don’t walk. Moved to a Black Widow and liked it better.
I started archery at home just before covid19, and had no help anywhere! So I bought a short pulley bow privately and started learning with it. The only thing I struggle with is the relationship of the hunting sight and the size of the peep! The visor is maximally forward and yet I cannot fully perceive it when I look through the peep! So I suppose this peep is too small for this kind of visor. Please advise how the image to the target looks ideal if everything is tuned correctly. Thanks in advance!
First, thank you for taking the time to post the informative video. Next, I’m NOT trolling, but I have a question pertaining to your form. For ease of explanation, assume that your feet are north/south along the line in the concrete floor. In the #3 position, after you complete your draw cycle. It appears that you have to move your torso east at the hips to acquire your peep, so your torso is no longer in a perfect upright “tall and proud”position. I notice my son doing this as well, and I’m not sure how to correct this or if it does indeed need to be corrected.
Hi, great video. Your video is teaching instruction that very few are talking about. I am keeping my left eye closed through out my shot and noticed that you are not. Could you give me some feedback on this? Thanks for showing the elevated behind view.
We teach to not shoot with eyes closed unless we have to in order to clear up pins/scopes/aiming points. In some cases we use masking tape over glass lens to block the off eye for shooting. This is why you teach new shooters based on dominant hand and not dominant eye. It's easier to learn with the dominant hand or address the non dominant eye. One eye closed isn't a huge no no but it does make barebow archers and Olympic recurve a little bit more panicky. Plus both eyes open helps with balance and reducing facial tension.
In barebow tension-direction video you had comments off. But I wanna tell you. I can't agree more. John Demer is a deity first of all. Secondly I think it is because of the low anchor of olympians the elbow doesn't come back in line at first, so they need to move that elbow back around. When you anchor on your face the arrow line is a little bit off so it makes easier to get aligned. That's noobie thoughts though, I guess!!!
Great video...I'm trying to figure out where my anchor point should be as my strings don't align on my nose/face and I have a lot of head movement. I'm thinking I'm too far back with my index knuckle under my ear instead of maybe under my cheek bone...hmmm..back to square one! Thanks for an awesome video!
No problem follow international archery Institute for more videos that will help you through that transition. Also follow the international Archie Institute podcast called the archery coach-cast
I really appreciate your description and methods as a new compound bow shooter. Thanks for all the great info, I’ll start paying attention to these points 👍🏽
This is probably the best video I’ve watched on draw length, and all the intricate details of the physics involved - thank you! (From a 52yo lifetime stick bow guy just now learning compound)
@@dusanpavlovic2201 well two things. One those shots were in a group size of a quarter. Two you never hold still, you’re always moving and if shooting properly the expansion allows the pin to float. The float of a hunting bow is much more visible compared to say a high end target bow.
Shooting my compound, my anchor point with my release is right thumb to right ear lobe. Repeatable. My measured draw length is 23.5 inches. I am deformed. My bow is set for a 23.5 inch draw length. You forgot to mention one thing thag has a drastic affect on accuracy: RELAX THE HAND HOLDING THE BOW. Using the wrist sling, you're not going to drop the pow when you fire.
Thx for the feedback. This video wasn’t about setting the grip but you are correct about relaxing the hand, however a crucial point to the grip is placing the pivot point first, pressure point last and making sure the knuckles are on a 45 degree angle. The thumb to the ear loab is typically too high of anchor IMO but in this video we are mainly discuss thumb release or back tension. Index trigger I don’t recommend for my shooters. To each their own of course, use what you’re comfortable with and produces results you’re happy with.
9:10 mark shooting with camera behind you...to me and I'm no expert you droppimg or pulling the bow hand to the left and out of your view is going to pull the arrow every now and then or am I wrong
That last video actually looks like your draw length is too long...at least going by the diagram you presented earlier. I'd like to see a comparison with a 1 inch shorter draw length at that same position.
Great information; Thank you for the tips! Watching this at 274 views. @1.5x speed I'm surprised you're not getting more coverage on such a useful topic!
