I build stuff. Quads and cars mainly, but I'm not afraid to dive in a project I've never done before. So, I’m here to try to inspire others to just go for it, and NEVER say, “I can’t do that”.
So I need more than just the radio? I need to by the steering controller as well all that stuff or t needed to be replaced? Getting ready to put new radio in my Escalade just trying see what route I have to go don’t want be stuck with n middle having to run to the store buy something
if I rewire the speakers to the amp directly do I still need to do the whole 9/speed wire thing? or would I just connect the 9 radio wires to the car specific adapter as normal? thanks
I have a 2013 tahoe LS. Under the tachometer is a digital readout that scrolls through 9 different items, Total Mileage, Tripomter, fuel range, etc. On a sunny day when the sun shines in my driver side window, the LED’s aren’t bright enough to see the readout. I do have the dash light control maxed out, but the sun washes out the digital readout. The speedometer, tach, and other gauges are easily readable, but the digital readout below the tach, is readable at night, but seldom readable on a sunny day. Hoping an updated set of new LED’s would provide more brightness.
This is incorrect do NOT connect the speed wired speaker wires to the harness ,you need to connect the speed wire directly to the speaker wires that ARE located in the dash behind where you radio goes
Would poorly calibrated endpoints be a possibile cause for full throttle flip of death? Turns out my AETR were off by 15-20 under and over. And anytime I would go full throttle she would desyncs or something for a half a second and recover most times. Just calibrated endpoints with your video and will go try to recreate the issue on lunch break
I have a ddx396. I didnt think it was the bottom of the line in the echelon series. Maybe it is now but years ago it wasn't. I will say that I installed that head unit and kenwood sport speakers (def not the top of the line speakers) and then put a Kicker 10” low profile competition sub and kicker 400 watt amp with remote in my 2005 Ford F150 STX and then moved the system to my 2002 Tundra SR-5 and in both trucks the sound was absolutely wonderful. I did have to make sure I set all the settings and crossover just right but when everything was dialed in I was very impressed. I think you'll love the DDX396. Just don't piss of your girlfriend so bad that she throws a fit and kicks your head unit blacking out the left side of the screen. That sucks! Would have gotten rid of her but we already had beautiful twin boys together so I let it slide even though it definitely chapped my ass!!
Hey man, I just want to thank you for putting up this video. I watched the wiring harness video and then this video. I did it step-by-step and let me tell you it worked beautifully. I didn’t find the exact harness because they weren’t making them anymore. It was discontinued but I got a similar one that came with some other tabs that I didn’t use so I just put them away but everything else was spot on. I don’t know what I would’ve done with out this video. I just saved myself hundreds of dollars. I was gonna take the radio to a radio shop, but I came across your video. I bought every single item that you listed. Thank you so much again this was very helpful.
Hello I just installed a new head unit in my 2003 Escalade. The sound is absolute garbage for me. The factory amplifier doesn’t even kick on for me. Music sounds flat. What harness did you use ? I suspect a bad harnsss
I've overheated as a result of a water pump failure on my 5.3 but I've never witnessed the temp get that high. I would like to address a few things like I hope my kit comes with instructions like that. Also they do make pliers that your supposed to use for crimping those crimp connectors and last time I checked less than 10 bucks at the local auto part store. Also when the temp gets that high again it's best to check out why like maybe the sensor isn't closing circuit as it should or even none of them will meaning your probably best off just wiring to the ecm.
I have a similar set up, how does the slave cylinder side of the fork retract when the clutch is released? I don't see a spring that would pull it back, and I don't see it attached to the push rod of the slave cylinder. Sorry but I am building my set up from scratch so don't have the original parts to compare.
It’s MAY 2024 and I don’t think you have to do math. The spring TENSION and length of the handle have been taken into consideration for the torque wrench. So essentially if you hung the weight at the beginning of the handle, the torque wrench should click at the weight you were testing. However, there is the weight of the torque wrench itself that is also pulling down, so if you were testing 20 pounds I would put your torque wrench may be at 21 Just a smidge over 20. BTW, UR torque wrench did click at the beginning of the handle. If you had adjusted the torque just a smidge, I think the wrench would have held and was in perfect calibration.
i did range test on my tx16s with spektrum ar631 and it keeps failing at range of 20 feet , testing it in my driveway where ther are cars around, could that be the cause?
I had an opener installed 20 years ago in a new built home there was a pole in the middle of the garage so the professional installer put it way off center, it has been fine since
Instead of reusing a mp3023 Transfercase originally mated to the 4l60(27 spline). You can opt for a NP263HD (NP1) transfer case which came in the 6.0 2500 trucks which are known to be much more stout 👍
