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My pool guy just installed a truclear with the cell on the vertical. He insists it is safe and is done all the time when space is tight or on a retrofit. It is working fine.Thoughts?
So how do you test it if there isn't a green wire connected to the green ground lug. Lots of timers don't have that connected. Look at other videos and youll see what I mean. I can't get anyone to clear this up, tonhave or not to have green groud wire.. super frustrating. Please help.
Thanks. I have a 120V 400W Pentair Amerilite that has leakage and trips the GFCI. Install has about 35 ft of 1" PVC conduit. Not sure if Sched 40 or Sched 80 conduit. I have purchased a new 12V 300 watt 50 ft cord Pentair Amerilite from dealer stock. I plan to install a 300W transformer, but will likely install a LED bulb. Questions : 1) Is the cord size much different than what was furnished with 400W 120V versus 300W 12V? I am wondering how hard the pull will be. 2) Can you recommend any LED white bulbs that are in the 2500-3000 Lumen range and preferably warm white light? Can you recommend reliable white LEDs? 3) Have you used any dimmers on the primary of a 300W transformer and have the LED's tolerated the dimmer? 4) Can I reuse the new gasket from factory when I swap bulbs or am I asking for trouble?
Me too, except I think I'm staying with a new 120v with an led bulb. The damn thing is close to $400 with a incandescent bulb. The a led bulb is gonna run another $30-$50. Crazy prices!
@@heynow01 I would seriously consider buying a 12V , even a 100W R20 version and 100W transformer and LED bulb. I found that the GFCI is not protection enough. Lightning caused my GFCI to fail unsafe putting voltage into the water. I found a 300W 12V 50ft R40 bulb model EC-602129. New old stock, open box for $250, free shipping. on ebay. Seller PSTpools. I think they have more. It arrived yesterday and looks perfect. Reason I went with 300W model is that if in future next buyer wants 300W incandescent they can just screw it in. Trust me you don't want to rely on a GFCI to save your life in a pool. The 12V conversion gets transformer isolation, A copper barrier to ground inside the transformer and then the GFCI. So really much safer.
@@heynow01 You would be many times safer in converting to 12V. The GFCI simply is not enough protection on 120V. Using a 12V transformer provides two extra layers. The magnetic isolation, as well as copper shield to ground. If the transformer fails, which is very unlikely, then the GFCI will take over.
@@rhyoliteaquacade Well, it trips as designed because the socket or wire has a high resistance short to ground. And although I do like the idea of a 12v DC light, the current light lasted 36 years trouble free. And spending over a grand for the 12 VDC set up, is not what I can do right now.
@@heynow01 Mine lasted 36 years from 1986 until the lightning ruined the wire, 2 1/2 years ago on tax day. Upgrading to 12V now because these Amerilites will no longer be available very soon.
With this product there is an additional and MAJOR consideration to make when purchasing the CYCLONE. Understand that the CYCLONE will filter OUT dirt very nicely but it will also filter out mostly ALL slow dissolving pool products and of course any diatomaceous earth (DE) you put in the pool skimmer for the DE filter system grids. This particular video shows a "catridge" filter installation where no DE needs to be added. But any seasoned pool owner/maintainer knows adding DE and/or pool water maintenance products through the skimmer is common throughout the year and unless you can "bypass" or remove the CYCLONE the result will end up in the bottom of the CYCLONE. (which looks like the situation in this video) I have and love the CYCLONE but with a DE pool it was obvious for the sake of ease and to reduce wear and tear on couplings I purchased and installed the CYCLONE "bypass" and am glad I did. I simply turn the bypass valve, add my pool products as directed through the skimmer wait a few minutes and then return the bypass valve to the "filter" position. I bought my kit from DISCOUNT SALT POOLS for $84.99. (I don't work for or know who Discount Salt pools are I just liked the price) I am on month 6 after cleaning and install and my bypass and my DE pressure gauge has increased ONLY 5 PSI. I would have cleaned it at least three times by now this year.
Salinity in the pool is through the roof at around 7.5k but the salt generator thinks it’s at 2.4k. I was going off that trying to bring it up but it stayed the same. Several salt test strips indicated the 7.5k. What could be the issue?
Thank you so much for this video! You don't know how long it took me to find out how to chill/heat. It seemed basic but I was wondering about the green lights and if they meant anything. The user manual was equally confusing. So I really appreciate this. Will the pool temp change to match when my desired temperature?
Fraud Alert!!! You Jackass CLOWNS saying "Open Water" is the "Highest" level of Diving Certification - it's THE LOWEST. And NEITHER of you know it. YOU are both FRAUDS!!!
I’m a little late to the party here. Most of us don’t have another dummy cell to put in line to do your bucket test. Rather than doing this, a buddy of mine said you can do a jet test. What that is it’s just capture some of the water coming out of the jet after it’s gone through the cell and test for chlorine. This will tell you if your cell is generating chlorine. I tried it and it works great. In case the phosphate level was fine, but nitrates were off the chart.
I'm in the Atlanta area... I installed solar several years ago, an yes, nighttime cooling can work. Anytime you are using "solar" you are also at the mercy of the sun, clouds, and outside temps. In July and August, the water can get warmer than we want simply from sun shine and high ambient temps. During those conditions, I change my pump programming to run less during the day and more at night and allow the panels to pull some of the heat out of the pool, knowing that it should heat up again the next day. To be most effective, you do need to adjust pump run times to match the season and weather conditions. In our case, the solar has added nearly two months of extra pool usage per season.
They suck on warranty I bought mine and right out of the box it wasn’t working and I couldn’t get a replacement I had to go through the warranty and they don’t fix it or test them before they sent they back to you
How does this work at the timer? With it being variable speed obviously the timer isn't needed anymore, but with the salt system being installed you'll need the timer to be able to shut it off when the pump isn't running. That's why I watched this video, was hoping to find an answer if you could help :)
I did this method because I happen to still have my old cell so I used it as dummy but when I turned chlorinator on withacting cell in bucket of pool water, the display would only read “hot” then “cold” and generating light would only flash. I would appreciate any reply you may have.
The flow light had stopped flashing. I actually did it twice just to make sure I did it right. Then when I removed the dummy and put the active cell back in the system the window displayed 2700 ppm.
@@garybostick7784 Are you plugging the old cell in? The idea is to keep the cell you're testing plugged in and putting that in the bucket of water. You are only using the dummy cell to run the system and not lose water so the flow switch can be activated. I hope that makes sense.
Yes, I followed the video step by step, even double checking myself. It seems to be intermittently working, I’m going to clean it again and retry later this week. The numbers it gives are sporadic. Had this salt system for 12 years and changed the circuit board 2 years ago it went bad, and this cell is 2 years old also.
With the equipment in the video not having a heater and the element was removed from the filter I'll say that's good but I did notice the salt cell and all that cal-hypo going through it I'm sure shortened the life of the cell maybe even had scaling after a while. Pool shock directly in the skimmer as I've been taught for 10 years is a big no no. Only cya in the skimmer with the basket present when adding. Not saying it won't work but in the long run not a good practice imo.
can i put pump and heater? so this way i ensure the heater can only be turned on when the pump is on. i have everything manual except the daily on and off of the pump
hey so its been almost 1 year since I started servicing pools, however, what actual experience do I need for a c53 license? Assuming I don't have bachelors to cut down the time? I just need to know if I need to actually have experience in building pools. Can I just use the experience for servicing pools?
I teated my salt cell t15 and it works. I have no free chlorine this year. I keep adding stabilizer and nothing seems to wprk for my water to hold chlorine more than 3 days. Is my mother board on my hateard aquarite bad? I only see power light on. I flip to super chlorinate and no light. I hit diagnostic button amd only number i see is temp and volts. All other number are 0. Screen numbers do move. Any help?