I have a flood plain sewer line easement that I’d like to clear for a small food plot. You mentioned spraying it first. Would it be better to weed-eat/sling blade it and then rake off the cut vegetation first before spraying?
I don't like to. I like the brassicas because they produce good tonnage of forage year one and then I would come back in late winter and broadcast (frost seed) the clover into the plot to get it started for the next year. Good luck.
Great video. I have something very similar like this on my property. I have a just over 1/4 plot in the middle of my property and the deer have always came through it before i put a plot in. Now there always through it. There are like 3 big scrapes on it. I can actually have a stand on each side for different winds
Thanks for the kind words Bill. This is an amazing video packed with tons of great knowledge! I will be recommending that all my clients watch this video before and again after we fly to emphasize the importance of everything mentioned.
Ok Deer Dirt episodes are great especially with Bill BUT the intro music sounds like I'm about to watch a memorial on somebody 😅 change it up. Keep up the series with Bill!
Can’t fix any food plot when the rains never come. Planting in dust isn’t an option. Strong La Niña is devastating my area again this year. Fourth year in a row that my summer plots and fall plots have failed. This is absolutely ridiculous anymore. Time to abandon food plots and figure something else out from here going forward.
Man, I hate that for you. I had two years in a row when all my plots failed in southern Iowa too. I also cut back on food plots the third year, but of course it rained that year. It's why I am not a farmer. I hate planting stuff and not having it do well. It is even a bit ironic that I hate planting stuff for the deer to eat and then having them actually eat it!. I guess I just like seeing stuff grow. Fruit trees might be an option you can explore until the weather patterns straighten out. Good luck and have a great day.
@HuntStand yeah, that's what I use, funny that Bill doesn't use that in the video though. Probably because it's a pain to draw a circle with it. Don't get me wrong, I like the app and use it daily, but there are two features I'd love to see implemented. 1. A draw on feature in the 3d map. 2. A circle shape tool.
If clover planted in year 1 and had ok results, what do I do in year 2 to thicken it up? Do I cut down weeds and throw out more clover seed? Do I till up soil and throw down seed? Slightly rake plot to create better seed to soil contact. I am in NC Your thought.
Clover usually fills in pretty well on its own if you remove the competition. That usually means mowing it sometime during the summer to get rid of other plants. Normally, clover will outcompete the other plants once it gets some sunlight. If this is not the case, then your clover didn't come in well enough and I would then till it under in the late summer (mid-August) and plant it to turnips (or a turnip/radish blend - food plot seed companies sell these) and then broadcast clover back into it in February. The turnips should germinate and take off with just one rain after spreading them on the top of the tilled ground (or you can drag something across the field to very lightly cover them to speed the process). Deer will eat the turnip blends too, so that is a good fix. But, ideally, the clover comes in thicker once you mow it to remove the competition. If you see good response from the clover to mowing, consider fertilizing to give it the best possible head start. Good luck.
In southern Ohio now and I need rain very bad! I’m spraying gly then I’m going to over seed clove and brassica now. Being a long range food plotter is tough. End of August I’ll be back to seed 3 grains and more brassica. Corn is almost knee high and beans are 4”-6”. I’m trying. Good job. Thank you.
Scott, thanks for the comment. It is tough to keep up with the tasks (and the weeds) when you can't be at the property every week. You have a good plan though. Good luck.
That is a good plan. I start in the spring with beans in most of those plots hoping that they work out and then I add brassicas in late July and then maybe fall rye in mid-August (if needed). Good luck.
I bought 13 acres of cover in big ag country the next year 25 from the neighbor that was the rest of the cover in the whole block. Plantwd switch everywhere maximized my cover and 6 years strong now killing 160 plus deer of it every year. Hunts better than any big place i have ever had. Location, location!
You got it Chad. You are so right. A small farm in a great neighborhood is better than a big farm in a poor neighborhood (and a lot cheaper). Good luck.
Good job. Thank you. My pop always said lime is a poor man fertilizer. Always lime….fertilizer is useless with a low ph!! All things are a learning curve. I primarily plant even years because odd years the oaks are it. This season the caterpillars completely defoliated ALL the oak trees. So fall plots here in NY will be going in. Headed to Ohio to spray over the beans and corn. Long distance food plotting is NOT cheap. In southern Ohio I’m not sure of timing for over seeding into the beans and corn with brassica and cereal rye.
Scott, thanks for the comment. I had a guy in the food plot business tell me several years ago that the best time to plant brassicas is about 80 days before the first "killing" frost so the plants are at the right stage (not too mature) when the season hits. In southern Ohio, I bet that first killing frost is in late October, maybe even November. So I would think early August would work great, but in the end it will come down to rains. You get nothing without a good soaker to get those seeds worked into the ground. Good luck.
Social carrying capacity (farmers, motorists, for example) is certainly a real thing and has to factor in. However, based on herd levels throughout the 2000s (best hunting decade ever most likely) compared to today, I firmly believe that 90-95% of the Midwest needs to INCREASE the # of deer not reduce them further. Clearly the habitat can sustain a significant increase in herd levels bc it did so for 10-12 years during that stretch. As I’ve always asked, I’m not sure by what metric the herd during those years were “stressed”? Huge bodied does, huge bodied bucks, the highest quantity of huge antlered bucks maybe ever. And yet 99% of what we read and listen to in the industry is kill more does, kill more does, kill more does. Near impossible to find a video or hunting article that suggests that the herd should be grown a little bit and doe harvest should be slightly reduced. Nothing but respect for you Mr Winke but this is one topic I just disagree w you on that’s all. Thanks!
I think you have to be careful because the herd is always healthy when it is increasing, but after a decade of lots of deer, that is when the habitat starts to show the signs. I have seen it first hand on farms I have hunted and some I have owned. As the herd is climbing, everything is rosy, but after a number of years of high density, everything starts to change. Stress doesn't come right away, it takes time to decimate a habitat just as it takes time to grow it back. I agree, there are definitely areas that have too few deer, and that is why I said it is best to start with some kind of accurate survey and compare that to other metrics. In the end, I have learned the hard way, that I would rather err on the side of having too few deer than on the side of having too many. I was part owner of a farm from 1995-2004 that was way over-populated. It was a huge farm (we controlled 4,100 acres contiguous, a lot of it was timber with 600 acres of tillable ag). We didn't shoot very many deer (bucks or does) and I only saw one buck that would say was over 190 on that farm in that time. We never shot big deer. Then I bought land about 1 1/2 miles away (or a bit less) and that 125 acre piece had more top end deer than the entire 4,100. That's when I sold my stake in the 4,100 and started buying more near the new place. I saw it first hand. Those deer on the 4,100 acre farm were always hungry. So, I may be a bit biased. I would rather have too few than too many. But, that is just me. Good input.
That is too bad. The guys that will take them from me now are more than happy to get them processed. The Hunter's for the Hungry program is a good one though and worth supporting. Iowa has the HUSH program and I donated a few hundred does to participating lockers over the years! Good luck.
Good video Bill. Yes, we feel it’s easier to manage for plus side herd work than trying to knock it down. The deer will give you clues as well, average age of your doe harvest, fawn recruitment, and all the indicators you mentioned. You’ll be impressed with how much better your habitat is and how faster plant succession does what it supposed to do at the right deer densities. Quality not quantity!
Amen, Scott. It is hard to get there if you have too many, but if you are starting from a low herd density, it is important not to let the numbers grow too fast. Ease up slowly on your target density.
Your neighbors could apply for depravation tags, if they qualify they can hand them out to neighbors and use them themselves. Cheaper than antlerless tags. I filled two tags for my neighbors last season.
That is a good tip. Thanks Keith. Most of my neighbors have cattle or alfalfa so it is harder for them to see damage, but in most cases, this is a good option.
The train on the WI side of the Mississippi River near my property is about 2 miles away and I hear them all the time. I use the sound when possible to cover my walking noise in and out of the woods. I feel sorry for all the people who live in the communities they come through. Its a busy RR line on both sides of the River. The DNR tells us how many deer they want us to take based on the free tags that come with the buck tag in WI. I just cant justify taking 6 deer off my property per year per hunter, but my mind is slowly changing. I had a thermal drone fly my property this year. We have a great population of deer. I think this year is going to be a doe harvesting year based on the buck to doe ratio discovered.
Paul, that drone survey is such good information. I do believe you have to engage the entire neighborhood to the best of your ability to see real change if the goal is dropping overall deer numbers. Yes, you can make some difference on your place (especially as relates to to buck to doe ratio, for sure, but to see a dramatic difference in overall numbers in two to three years, you will need help. Good information.
Interesting video. My property is small so most deer are pass through. Large land holdings surround my 23 acres. I doubt we harvest enough does to control the numbers. Thanks for sharing!
Bill, the brassica thing seems to be hit or miss if the deer use them. As I stated in one of my posts they seem to be an absolute waste here in south central IL atleast for me. Given I don't fertilize or lime what are your thoughts on the soil nutrients or lack there of affecting their taste or whatever triggers the deer to eat them. They always look fabulous but nothing touches them even late post freeze.
Nate, I am not sure how the fertility affects the taste or palatability of those plants. I am guessing there are experts that probably know that. My sense is that if it is growing well, it should be healthy and attractive. I guess it is possible that your deer just don't like brassicas or don't have a taste for them. Once the deer got a taste for them on our southern Iowa farm, they ate them heavily. On the new farm, they are eating them, but not hammering them. I think it is related to need also. If the deer don't need more food then maybe they aren't as apt to try something like this that isn't exactly what they are looking for. I bet they will eat clover and beans however. I would keep planting a small patch (1/4 acre) of brassicas each year (and try fertilizing it) until they either prove that they won't eat it or they get a taste for it. I like brassicas because they are easy to establish, produce a lot of forage and are not super hard to maintain. So, it is worth taking the time to try to "teach them" to eat it. If after a couple more years of planting a small well fertilized plot, you see that they aren't using it, then I would give up. Good luck.
Bill great tips. I have a atv sprayer roller a drag broadcaster for my atv and a hand broadcaster and it all works great. I love brassicas they are easy to plant. I have done beans peas wheat and rye by broadcasting then run the drag over it and roll it and works great. My problem is the turkeys. They will litterly come 20 minutes after i broadcast its like the atv is ringing the dinner bell
I saw that too when I broadcasted fall rye into one of my plots last year. The turkeys camped there until it was almost all gone, and like you, I had dragged it in. Your plan is a good one. Spread more of the cereal grains than you think you should because of the turkeys. Good luck.
In terms of fertilizing the plot the following year after planting, do we really need to even add P or K to soil anymore? We're not harvesting the plants we put in food plots, so I'm confused as to why there are recommendations to fertilize every year from so many people. The P and K didn't go anywhere. I ask because I have a neighbor that fertilized a plot a decade ago when he cleared the plot and grows soybeans and clover in it every year with a spring planting and never adds anymore fertilizer. I understand that nitrogen leeches out, but shouldn't we food plotters always be on the cheap side with fertilizer once we initially get a plot are started with P and K? Whatever the deer eat, they're defecating back onto the plot.
I would just do the soil test. The plants do uptake the nutrients and the deer eat them or we cut the plot and the soil nutrients become less "fixed". Maybe do a soil test every other year if you want to save time and money. I had a friend who planted soybeans in the same plot every year for about five or six years. At first it worked fine and he attributed the deer droppings with keeping the soil fertile. Eventually, however, that plot did show serious signs of being less productive. The beans grew much slower and didn't produce as much height or as many pods, etc. You eventually have to put the P & K back in. Again, don't trust anyone for that kind of advice when you can just do a soil test and find out for yourself. Good luck.
Awesome content as always! I appreciate you’re willingness to share your decades of experience. I’m terms of fertilizer if I want to fertilizer with liquid or granular when can I do that and not risk burning the plants? Right before a rain or when conditions show dry weather? Thanks again!
I have never tried liquid fertilizer on food plots. I have used it on ag fields but not food plots. Way easier to use dry on a food plot. Logistics are much easier for hauling and applying. If applying nitrogen (such as to brassicas, winter wheat, fall rye) apply right before a rain so it doesn't evaporate. It is unstable in the solid form (urea) so you only have a day or two in hot summer weather before it starts volatilizing. You either need to till it in by then or get some rain to take it into the soul. P and K are stable and you can apply them any time.
@@mitchh7216 Yes, for sure. You don't need nitrogen on soybeans but you do on corn (and sorghum) so the same basic principles of timing exist. Anytime you are spreading just P and K the timing is not as important as when you are spreading nitrogen. Good luck.
Sounds good! Thank you again for taking the time to make all the videos and for responding to comments like mine! Good luck to you as well this season.
With the poor man obviously the tillage is the problem. I've kind of given up on all of the brassica stuff because it seems to draw in nothing. I don't know if it's just this area or my poor soil or what because I don't fertilize. I figure letting what wants to grow there is much easier than fighting it. I think the best end-all-be-all can't go wrong plot is to somehow figure out how to get some decent tillage and broadcast winter wheat and clover. The wheat is almost an instant draw after it gets enough moisture to germinate and the clover of course won't be much until the next spring but then you don't really have to touch it. Given wheat goes in late enough there's basically no weeds trying to germinate like you stated. Thanks for the videos. I really enjoy them. You're down to earth input is what 99% of hunters need to hear. Oh, and I wanted to add when planting wheat I would highly recommend finding an awnless variety such as Red Sunburst. Doesn't make much difference when it's green but after it matures I'm certain the animals appreciate that long wire not being on each seed.
That is a good point regarding the wheat variety. I have friends who have used garden tillers to till up their poor man plots. The end result is a little rough but it definitely works. Good luck and thanks for the comment.
At the 26:00 mark you NAILED IT! Buy a farm to ENJOY it!!! Let the kids and grandkids explore. Take rides with family and friends to see what is blooming at the moment. Cut firewood and create trails. Scout for deer all year long. Look for mushrooms, and go squirrel hunting. Run a trapline. Don't be afraid to take your tractor into the woods. Now granted, I do have a couple of "sanctuary" areas that we leave alone, as the deer HAVE TO FEEL SECURE if you want to have them stick around. As Bill said, "The deer will get used to you." They pattern us as much as we pattern them! Just ENJOY what you worked so hard for!!!
Great job Bill and the rest of the team with the advice. The one big takeaway for myself was the winter wheat as a great food source after the main crop is harvested. Thanks guys for the time and helpful tips! Have a great summer. Brandon
I should add there were also 5 youth deer killed and we killed 2 does as well for a total of 9 deer on 126 acres. We never have many mature deer on camera until the fall but definitely no deer shortage this time of year in general. The cover everywhere really reduces the negatives of enjoying the farm.
Josh, it can be a real pain so start cheap and see if you even like doing it. If so, get slightly better equipment and start a little RU-vid channel and see if you still like it. You can always go up from there. Good luck.
BILL WINKE for President. I could listen to Bill read the phone book, seriously though Mr. Winke is not only extremely knowledgeable but one of the most relatable TV/RU-vid personalities. We appreciate all of your hard work on the content..God Bless!
Can't get enough! I'm now on growing season 3 of heavy tsi and fire. I'm surrounded by ag but last year had no grain and more bucks than we could keep track of. Had multiple October in bow range sightings of a huge bodied old bruiser that we never got a shot at but killed 2 mature bucks the second week of Nov. that scored better. It was the best season yet. Chainsaw Drip torch Leaf blower Garlon3a and Arsenal Clethodym. After doing it all wrong for years I've learned these 5 things will get you 90% of what is needed to hold mature bucks. I am a believer in clover and winter wheat and always establish my clover with wheat as a cover crop. I am going to try beans again this year to compare but I feel grains really only enhance post rut late winter hunting. Native browse is what "feeds' the deer. It holds them, feeds them, protects them, and promotes daylight movement. Grain plots have had way to much emphasis placed on them. Low pressure shallow hunting is the key. Imo stands that are only good the 1st hunt aren't good stands. Access and cover are key. The mature wheat cover crop over clover is a huge turkey draw in late June as well. These strategies have take me from hoping to see a good buck to expecting to see multiple shooters each season.
What if you have more bucks to does? Last fall was our 1st yr on the new property and come fall we saw more bucks than does had more bucks on cam as well. Now the does were there all summer and they fawned there. But come fall we only saw a handful of does
The farm I owned in southern Iowa was like that and the one we own now will be like that also soon enough. I didn't see all the bucks leaving during the rut. They only know what is in their range. If there is a doe area in their range, yes they will tend to spend more time there during the rut, but otherwise, they just travel more as they have to work harder to find a hot doe. That southern Iowa farm had an honest 4 bucks per doe at one point. The bucks moved a lot and fought a lot. It was a really cool farm to hunt. Good luck.
Grest video bill. I wish i would have known bsck in the 90’s when land was dirt cheap to buy. We bought 21 acres last yr we have great neighbors and alot of deer. I looked for all that before buying. Number 1 was access. Didnt no how my neighbors were but they all own big chunks of land and im right in the middle of them
That sounds like the perfect setup transamguy. I look back on the even the mid-90s and really kick myself. You could have literally bought half of the land in southern Iowa at that time for the value of timber on it. Basically, free land. No internet at that time and no one had any idea what those trees were worth other than the guys buying them. Man, if I could have one mulligan in my business life, I would take it right there. I could have bought literally thousands of acres of land without hardly any money! Crazy.
We all wish we had bought ground "back when....", but it is all still pretty much relative. The point being is to buy ground when you can! The "when you can" is the difficult part! I WISH I had bought my farm when I was forty years old, instead of fifty-one years old, and I am now sixty-eight years old. BUT, when I was younger, I could not afford to buy a farm. I was raising a family, working all the time, and just "making do". Then, as I got older, I was making more money, and had a bit more leisure time, so I decided "NOW WAS THE TIME". And my family was on board with the purchase. Yes, I paid more than "back when", but I also had more funds, so again, it was all pretty relative. I am sure my son will be saying, "I wish I had bought a farm back when."
That's right. You buy it when you can. If you are still young and don't have a lot of family expenses or commitments you can start a self-employed career and hopefully that can set you on the right course to have the extra income long term. Good luck to all.
You should make a version of the app that ONLY has the maps without all the other bells and whistles. I just paid for a subscription but the only thing I want is the maps. I kind of feel like I am getting ripped off for paying for all this other crap that I will never use. The maps are better than the alternatives I could find, though. Consider this- Not everyone who uses maps hunts. If you follow my suggestion and have a cheaper simpler version, you will sell a lot more subscriptions.
I picked up a Christensen Arms .22 that uses the Ruger rotary mags and it shoots about .33 groups easily out of the box. With it ever so slowly breaking in, sometimes I can get the grouping smaller but that’s a way down the line.
