Good luck. I still haven't come back to this one. Hope I get to it sometime this winter to complete the recap. It started popping a bit so I'm going go ahead and do all boards.
I just purchased one for a good price at a local sale, cosmetically mint, but it has some issues. No sound output. The tuner I got with it works perfectly. I'm hoping it sounds as good a my Luxman L80v that just quit on me.
@@millervintagehifi3034 There's jumpers on the back. Original. Checked all three fuses, good. Tried just the amp section, still nothing. No lights on the front but when I use the switched outlet on the back to power the tuner, it works. There's a local shop that works on these old amps. I'll just take it in. He's reasonable.
I had the same issue with a PL-A45. Kept rubbing and running a tat to fast or slow on 33 and 45rpm. Only after adjusting the spindels height, bent the 'fork' wider, bending the whole lever arm down or up, and a correct factory belt (with correct width!); finally solved these issues!
I this week found an purchased my favorite of all receivers (after trying to buy one for more than 19 years). It's a great feeling indeed Anyways that STR-6060F is build outstanding indeed. Everything shielded etc.
I bought one of these 6 months ago near mint for $200, and I watched with baited breath for when you'd finally explain what that extra FM setting is for! Oh well, whatever it does makes FM radio sound a thousand times better, (though I think my local station has 'HD Radio' technology that sounds amazing.) It has so much depth and warmth, I can easily hear lots of background percussions, and elements I'd never noticed before in 50 year old songs. I really love mine, it's all practical with no digital home theater complications, back to basics. And I swapped the bulbs for LED's for that gorgeous amber glow. Great video!
Thanks for watching! The bad thing about these is that there is no owners manual to explain exactly what that does. I'm sure it has something to do with FM sensitivity/noise, but to be honest it's just a guess.
The 737 is kind of it's own creature. The 838 and 939 are similar, the 535 and 636 are also similar. The 737 shares some commonalities with both series (535/636 and 838/939). So it kind of depends on what 'difference' you are looking for. I'm not sure I know enough about the specifics of each model to really be able to answer.
Excellent video. My 6300 just started doing this very thing. Hadn’t used it in some time.The solenoid is working fine, just needs some cleaning. Going to replace the belts too. These are such excellent decks.
I have this player though it's been in storage for aeons. I've just moved and thought I'd see if I can get it working but I cannot get the turntable off that spindle. I've tried giving it a couple of taps as you did but it's still not budging. I can see the belt is pretty toasted but if I can't get the turntable off I'll never be able to replace it, and just where would one find the belt you need for this model or is that a universal thing. As you can see I don't know poo about this but I'd love to get it working. Cheers.
Just finished a restore on a KLH 27. Needed caps badly on preamp ,control board and power amp. They fiexed it. Had a broken 67 khz fm coil on mpx. The cap values are what they made in the old days. 47 is what was 50, 22 is what was 25 and so on. So choice řo be made is to go up or down whatever. Power supply caps were fine. Only reason I fixed it was for me not for a customer. Too much work or labor I think for a customer to bother fixing. $$$$ For what it is overall b
These were 1978/1980 iirc Sa-725 30w x 2@4 ohms Sa-735 45w x 2@4 ohms Sa-750 60w x 2@4 ohms Sa-775 85w x 2@4 ohms Sa7100 110w x 2@4 ohms If you wanna know the 8ohm spec just subtract 5, ya dingus! For your health!
I have this amp, it has a left channel issue. I have been thinking about rebuilding it, although I have never done it before, I have worked on some pinball boards. This was a great beginning video. I have to look at the schematic and figure out where to begin. Thanks.
Hi! I have the same turntable, but I'm having issues with the automatic return. Could you help me figure out what might be wrong or how to fix it? I'd really appreciate any advice. Thanks!
With your help i was able to get my 707 back in order! I cleaned the 2 speed pots and worked them back and forth about 50 times each and a new belt for the arm return. Set the speed and success! So thanks. Before I started my arm was returning about an inch before the rest. and the quartz lock was going off and speed wavering. My $20 garage find from 12 years ago loves on
So not sure how the belt affects speed other than slippage. Also that's a standard headshell so I'd just pick up one of those and then you're have the finger lift issue taken care of. Did you lube the center bearing? Also looks like the anti skate might be missing a string? Sorry for peppering you with questions but interesting vid
Belt length, diameter & width can all impact the speed. I have several old Pioneer headshells...on a low end table like this I wouldn't bother replacing it since the elevator is working. In part 2 I cover lubing the spindle (I'm pretty sure). Anti-skate on this turntable is magnetic (no string/weight). Thanks for watching!
There is no Stereo becon, what you were referring to is known as the Stereo Indicator! When you are tune into a strong FM Stereo station the Indicator will light Indicating the receiver is tuned to a FM Stereo station.
This table (and pretty much every other optical size-sensing table) would have been originally supplied with two paper discs to put under translucent records. There are two light sources in the projector and two sensors under the platter - if both are covered means 12", if only the inner is covered, it's 7". And you didn't mention *drive belts* .
Not to be one of "those" guys -- but really you should remove the tonearm counterweight before even attempting to repair this. Thanks for the video though. Interesting.
Thanks for this video! I acquired one of these tables and, sure enough, it had the exact same issue as the one in your video. It was also just as easy to repair.
For future reference and to anybody looking for help on this, I had the same issue with the tonearm not fully returning to the correct position. I fixed this by adding some white lithium grease along the top of the tone arm elevator that the tonearm slides across while in the raised position. My understanding of the return mechanism is that it gives the tone arm one quick push/kick and relies on it gliding all the way to rest. It doesn't actually push it the whole way back. If there's too much friction, especially where the tonearm elevator track begins to angle down, it will stop short. I also adjusted the tone arm elevator height using the small screw on the side of the elevator to make sure the needle was high enough in the raised position, though I'm not sure if that contributed to helping the tonearm return to position.
