Typically, you have to configure most of betaflight settings yourself. In particular, you have to assign a switch on your radio to arm the quad in the Modes tab.

Birds of prey differ a lot in their aggressiveness to each other and other species. Golden Eagles are particularly vicious.

I can't tell you anything about Rekon 7, I only flew Flywoo Explorer LR 4 and Rekon 6 not counting various planes. Comparing these two Rekon 6 has somewhat less flight time, but more reach (11 - 12 km instead of 7-8) and less jitter in the wind. So, I like it more. As for the max time, it depends on the props. With the stock props (and jello) I could probably do 35 minutes, but I don't want to push the battery so far, and I don't really need so much time anyway. With the HQ 6" 3-blades that I'm using now I can do 30 minutes, if I really need to, but I hardly ever do. Typically, I fly between 20 and 25 minutes and see all I wish to see. I don't use a GoPro. There is no point, since I fly just for fun, and the DJI HD quality is good enough for my personal entertainment.

@@Тёплый-Щенок what is the difference with the 3 blade props for you? More stability, less jello? I see your copter flies similar to mine. I wanted to tune him for smoooth flight, but with wind it always shakes a bit. Default the I term is way too high, and the filter settings are to low for the vibrations I have. I use the braces of course. Amazing range here. Which antennas on goggles?

@@Rcschim It's a bit complicated, because I first tried 5" 3-blade props, which where a lot sturdier than the stock props, but I had to modify their hubs to fit the Rekon 6 bells. When I first tried them there was no noticeable jello, but crazy jitter, I mean - crazy. So, I shifted both gain and balance sliders to 1.6, and this cleared the jitter to the most part. When I switched to the 6" 3-blade HQ props I didn't change any PIDs, and it flies pretty well. Occasionally I notice some tiny jello, but nothing comparable to the jello with stock props. And, yes, in a strong wind there is a bit of jitter, but I'm not sure if it is possible to remove it in principle. I didn't try to change the I term though. The quad antenna is the stock CP one, the goggles have True RC X-Airs: a half-sphere and the X^2 one with 13 dBi.

@@Тёплый-Щенок thanks for your reply! makes sense that you have to change the pids to suite the different props. I flashed my ESCs with JESC to use RPM filters on this copter - let's see if this helps with the vibrations and shakes. I also noticed that using 6S packs (higher Volts, thus higher pushing force) the copter handles way better. Today we should get some breezy gusty winds, hope my theory is true ;)

I’m also jumping between all the Rekons. The 5 is the most versatile and can double as a freestyler. The 6 can carry a full sized GoPro, can reach further distance in shorter times but loses some freestyle ability and then the 7 is a full on long range drone with a very specific tune for long range. So if you ONLY want to do long range I think the 7 is the one for you. If you want something more versatile get a 6 or 5.

Thanks! I highly recommend switching to the HQ T6x2.5x3 props, they work great, no jello at all. Also, I've switched to the original DJI camera, which allows Mobius A lens. It's FOV is 90 degrees, so there are no props visible, and no visual field distortions, like in the video.

Caddx vista + 13 dBi directional antenna on the DJI goggles.

I think that the problem is not with tune, but with the props. They are very flexible, and my guess is that whenever there is a burst of rotation initiated by the FC (e.g., to counteract a puff of wind), the props start fluttering or something like it, which causes the transient jello. I'm trying to test this hypothesis by using sturdier props, but there are complications due to the stock motors having the unusual 2 mm shafts.

I confirmed that the source of the jello were the flimsy props. I've put different props (3-blade 5"), much sturdier ones, and the jello is gone. These props required some modifications, because they are for 5 mm axles and also don't have two dips on the bottom of the hub that couple them to the bells. So, I had to improvise a 5 mm to 2 mm coupler from a silicone tube and notch the dips in the props to allow them to sit flat on the motor bells. Besides, I had to change the tune quite drastically, otherwise there were tons of jitter with these props. I followed this guide for 6-7" cruisers: theuavtech.com/presets. Everything is good now, except for some high-frequency prop-wash during descents, so I'll work on it next. Probably, I just need to turn the Dmin back on.

@@Тёплый-Щенок Wow you really put work in that. Thank you very much for you answer. I already have a lightweight 5inch and don't need another one. I will look into HQ 6inch triblade props. Maybe these are sturdier.

@@haustiersteinfpv9181 You just look at their weight, basically. If they are more than 3/2 of the stock 6" two-blade props weight they must be sturdier. Be careful about the hub height, it shouldn't be taller than 5.5 mm. Btw, the stock props are not produced by Gemfun any more, it seems.

@@haustiersteinfpv9181 Gemfun only makes 5" 3-blade (two types) with the same mount style now. I bought them both for testing, but didn't receive yet. The weight it pretty low still, but since they are 1" shorter they might be ok.

As you might know, Goblin makes enough noise for dog walkers or anyone else within 500 yards radius to be well aware of it flying over, so I don't worry too much about it actually hitting anyone. In fact, one of the dog walkers helped me to locate it, because he witnessed it doing its death spiral. But I agree that it is a good practice to fly over the least populated areas, where it is still possible to land the plane safely, which is what I always do.

As for maidening Goblin, good luck with it. My first 2 or 3 'maidens' all ended in crashes. I'd suggest launching it off a cliff up a stiff wind or/and setting up launch assist in iNav right away. And, if this is an option, use a large prop, like 7x4 or something like it. The latest 3-blade prop, actually, works pretty well, but I wouldn't use it without the launch assist.

@@Тёплый-Щенок Thanks for the tips!

OMG, Grandma, is this you???

The 4 miles limit was set by DJI FPV. They changed it to 8 miles since the summer 2020 firmware update. You need to check the power settings in the goggles. It is only 25 mW until the DJI air unit gets an arming signal from a flight controller. Then it can go as high as 1,200 mW depending on your settings. If you don't have a flight controller to provide the signal, you need to turn "Temperature Protection" setting to Off in the goggles menu. Make sure that you launch shortly after turning your power on in this case, otherwise the air unit will overheat pretty quickly if running at full power. Also, check that your air unit and goggle antennas have the same polarization.

I upsample now, but I wouldn't say that there is a huge difference. For example, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ua1nqvC4ES4.html. Also, I'd say that in the goggles, while flying, it is slightly less resolution, especially on flat textures, than in the recording. My guess, is that there is not enough speed to do a quality decompression in real time, especially for the 50 Mb/s stream. It could also be that the compression artifacts (such as false contours on flat textures) are just more noticeable on the goggle's screens.

1/3 M12X0.5 Lens A2 FOV 90Degree F2.0 f3.2mm IR Filter for Mobius 1 Sport Camera. I prefer narrower-angle more natural-viewing lenses, since I don't fly acro/race much. I buy them on ebay.

Matek 405 Wing

@@Тёплый-Щенок running inav?

@@kingasapj3160 Yes. I got a strange bug with iNav 2.6 affecting launch assist, so I downgraded to 2.4 for now. Also, I tried installing Ardupilot on it, but couldn't find any ground station software that was fully functional on Mac. So, I gave up on Ardupilot.

It is very kind of you to call it 'landing' )))

Well, SOME night vision. It is 'near' infrared capable, which means, basically, that the image will look pretty much like a normal bw image. Or, more precisely, like the red channel of a full-color video converted to bw. So, you won't see any body heat images or anything like that. You'd need a real infrared camera for this, which is very expensive.

This all stock except for the 4s 2p Li-ion battery. I don't remember if I already had balsa elevons installed then. I have them now. I also use a 7x4 APC prop now, because it is much easier to launch with a larger prop, and I don't feel any effect on speed. This is the only plane I have at the moment. Dart 250g, and Z-84 wing were both killed by Golden eagles in the course of this year. Flying Goblin is a lot more fun than any other plane I ever flew, so I'm not too upset about loosing the other planes. It's even more fun now that it can go 8 miles with the DJI FPV.

There wasn't any problem fitting DJI FPV on Z-84, after I had it on Nano Goblin and ZOHD Dart 250g ). No pictures, sorry. I have it in the front right next to the camera, which is close to the tip of the nose. I use 4s Li-ion battery and a mini ESC, so there is enough space left for other stuff, like FC, barometer, and a R9 MM receiver.

@@Тёплый-Щенок thanks! are you using the Vista or the Full AU?

@@flyingrock6381 Full AU

www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=45364487&postcount=8377

@@Тёплый-Щенок hot glue is GOD! Thanks :)

I was traveling x-country with my son, so we really didn't have to time to look for the plane.

I expected it to toss the plane down the cliff after having its way with it. This is what they do with offals, as far as I know.

@@Тёплый-Щенок Lol yeah. I imagined it trying to feed chunks of polystyrene to it's young and them choking it back up again.

It can only go in the front to keep CG at place. Mine was right under the vent, and I glued two small heat sinks to it. I tried it at 1,200 mW in Utah few days ago (so, the weather was pretty hot) and it did just fine, didn't even feel hot after landing.

eolinium great sounds like a good plan then I will do the same 👍🏻

@@Тёплый-Щенок wonder if you can decase it and just expose board to high airflow? For like 4 g of savings 🤣

@@bbingtube Maybe, but 4 g wouldn't make a difference, it would still be above 250 g.

I didn't try to hurt it, I only meant to make noise with the propeller. It is a tiny motor, so if the eagle was holding the plane by the prop, it wouldn't turn at all, and if it was holding it by the tail fins, it was unlikely that his feet would get in the way. And even if they did, the feet are protected by massive scales, not to mention that it most likely would've been the talons not feet, so I don't expect the prop could do any real damage. They use eagles in Netherlands to intercept quads (and in US too, as far as I know), and none of the birds were hurt during their training, even though quad props pose a lot more danger, I would think. In the hindsight I should've tried the buzzer instead, but it was difficult to think straight then. And, yes, I had been cut by a propeller (on a much stronger motor) and had lots of stitches on two fingers ).

They did last summer. It is 8 miles limit now after a firmware upgrade.

I tried multiple antenna placements on the plane, and I can't say that it makes a lot of difference as long as it is far enough from any conductor blocking it. Just sticking a dipole antenna vertically two inches or so above the hatch is good enough. The best location is, of course, below the plane, so you can glue a Lumenier micro dipole to the vertical fin there or a Lumenier AXII 2 cloverleaf sticking down from the bottom (just the cloverleaf part to keep it from catching on grass) an inch or so in front of the motor. In both cases you'll have to solder an extension coax to the antennas, because the Caddx has to be in front to reach the camera. It's a bit of a hassle, but doable with some care. On the ground I'm currently testing this directional CP antenna, it seems to work as well as my LP dish from L-com (14 dBi and 17 dBi respectively, both provide about 20 Mb/s at the maximum distance of 4 miles): www.banggood.com/150mm-Triple-Feed-Patch-5_8GHz-14dBi-Pagoda-Array-FPV-Antenna-for-RC-Drone-p-1304764.html?Shipoutinform190813&Gakki&sc_src=email_2671705&sc_eh=cd57ff776d957e1e1&sc_llid=21247660&sc_lid=104858042&sc_uid=PJxUltFhgn&cur_warehouse=CN