Thx very much for sharing. I'm currently at the same stage assembling a Jazzmaster body from Warmoth as your video. It has the exact same misalignment with the pickup cavaties as yours did. Luckily before finishing, I found a video on YT that pointed out the problem with the Warmoth JM bodies and was able to correct the cavity routs with a router. Getting to assembly with this problem fixed was a big relief. I applaud you wiring the electronics from scratch. After studying the circuits I elected to get a pre-wired harness from 920D. Thx again for sharing.
Sounds like its too small.but honestly,it uses probably the smallest allen wrech possible. You coukd use a small flat head. Or...you could just loosen ur strings an take the bridge off and move them with your fingers to desired height
@@NintenDub thanks for the reply mate...yes that is what I did...bit wierd that I got a mustang with the same bridge...it fits that one..yet not my new jazzmaster...but all sorted now. I hope.. Well today it is still in tune...so. that is definitely a good thing..take care
Great video, I shimmed and polished the neck and raised the bridge on my squire jazzmaster. I also raised my pick ups to where I liked it. It not only sounds great but also the fret action is way better.
I too found out the hard way regarding the Jazzmaster routing by Warmoth. Unfortunately I didn't know when I bought it during the sale this past Christmas. I am going to make the pickup routes bigger with a template I have ordered.
Seems your appinion to replace DIN connection nest to Jack is too fast. Espeshial cable may connect this guitar to the joystick port of your computer soundkard
Very good. It's worted to file the pivot plate. I did it with my squier 40th anniversary jazzmaster. All tuning issues went away and the whole system became death silent. It's not worse them the AVRI which is installed in my usa jazz
If possible, always buy your pickguard from the same company that made the body. There are no real standards. Fender has parts made in a number of places and there are subtle variations even in their branded products.
awesome i am building jaguar kit from china lovely wood amazing but i had to trem to fit the roller switch since the american pods r bigger compare to the chinese are really small no big deal the neck fits perfectly no shim needed upgrade the treomlo plate from wd music plus pickguard and bridge and pre wire harnesses from hoagland custom oh ya worth every nickel and wilikison humbucker pick ups plus vintage machine heads will be staining a root beer sunburst with a custom black pick guard from wd music my jazz master from solo a bust planning to upgrade it as well and i fix the damage neck zero customer service from solo stay away from that company keep on BUILDING
Wow dude, you got a rare unmolested specimen, except for the replaced tuners.. which is actually good, since the original tuners are just hands down unusable. You are lucky to have the internal electronics, no matter how weird it is, still in the original shape. At this time and age, not many of those guitars survived endless attempts to “improve” the internal wiring by eager teenage “experts” gutting the damn thing and replacing the pickups and everything else with some home brew abomination or another. I’d highly recommend to put the original DIN socket back and use a pigtail adapter instead to connect the guitar to an amp. The neck definitely needs some work and the truss rod on these usually does nothing, but if the neck is fixed and refretted carefully and properly, you’ll get a unique and interesting guitar.. no, it’s not your another Strat or Yamaha or anything else, and it’s not supposed to be. Make it playable and enjoy it for what it is. Search for some Soviet 60-70s music on youtube - that’s what this thing is for. Or maybe some American 40-50s music too.. Not your metal or shred stuff.
Hi, I got my first JM recently and followed the instructions of this vid, so far everything was fine but yesterday while recording my high e string started playing same notes on different frets. Figured out it had something to do with the saddle / neck relief and now i regret adjusting the neck relief with the key that i got with the guitar. I didnt know how to fix it so i tried by tightening the screws on saddle but accidentally popped my high E string. So i thought that its not really a problem and i can replace my high E string later, as I didnt need it to finish the recording of the song. However during recording the same thing happened to B string. The saddle is slightly tilted and kinda more sinked in on the side thats closer to the circular tone and volume knobs. I found on reddit that I could lif the saddle up with my hands and put some duck tape on it so it doesnt sink in but im not sure wether to do that or not as I believe there is some tension thats making it sink into the bridge and the duck tape might help for a while but make something worse in the long run. I tried to lift the saddle up with hands and it seems like it just need a bit of leveling or like to put it in in a certain angle which I did, and it kinda worked and my B string doesnt play same notes on the frets anymore. However if I play the guitar with tremolo bar or even without it it slightly sinks in agan and tilts to the left again and the same thing repeats. Does this have something to do with the neck relief? If so, Is this fixable? I spent all my saved money for the JM, so I really hope this is fixable.. do you think so? Or do you think i overtightened the nut in the neck and its beyond home repair? I dont know anything about the guitar hardware diy fixes or anything do you think I need to find some guitar repair shop? Sorry for too many questions, but could you please help? I tried many forums but without any solutions... thanks in advance
I'm getting ready to wire together an MJT Jazzmaster build and this helps. I like the idea of grounding the pickups to the jack instead of to the shielding in the body like in Fender's diagram. Question: Did you just solder the ground wire from the trem plate to the shielding in the cavity? I didn't see where you had connected the other end of that wire.
I think on a closed wood like Alder sanding sealer + a thorough sanding would have prevented the grain popping issue I had. But thicker grain fillers have worked well for me on open type woods (mahogany etc.) and probably would work too!
