Wild Bush & Grit is a Canadian outdoor RU-vid channel that is out of the norm. Many hours of high-quality content and stunning visuals riddled with practical information. Audran, the host, will pull you into his world and share his adventures in the great wilderness of Canada. Hunting, fishing, honest gear reviews, topnotch wild game cooking recipes & reloading tips.
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Depending on barrel condition, especially milsurps, I'll use sweets to knock out the junk and neutralize any remaining acids that may be present. I might repeat the process depending on how much copper deposits/layers get a real good look at the barrel condition. Haven't tried kroil and usually use a patch dipped in mineral spirits and that does the trick for me to knock out carbon and lead deposits. Can't go wrong with CLP as an general purpose do all imo.
i bought everything from ballistic products except the lee loader and some of my shells are raising back up over a time.bkl10920-2484 everything on this number is what i have new fiochi clear hulls so im not sure whats up,if i press too much the sides will slightly buldge out on the hull so i just quit,i made around 50 and quit.thought about holding it up to a warm light buld after precrimped for a second then press it down maybe the plastic is rigid since its new i dont know,and no im not going to play with fire and blow up lol.and not all of them are raising up,i'd say like 5 or 6 out of 20 or 30 or something,my gun is a panzer arms semi auto M4 clone so i dont even know if they will chamber lol if i had a regular 12 gauge so i could rack it back and see but i only have the semi auto.
Hoppe's 9 and their instructions is what got me there in the first place. Many professional shooters will disagree with your 2nd statement. If your barrel needs a carbon build-up to be accurate, its a poorly made barrel. You know what's bad? A carbon ring.
Very good video. I love this old cartridge and have accumulated a few pieces of Norma brass. You did a very good job of explaining how to reform 7.92x57 brass into 9.3x57 brass. I must mention one thing however… When chambering a round, in your case to check headspace, you should feed from the magazine. Placing the round directly into the chamber may cause damage to the extractor as it is forced to slip over the case rim. Mausers, especially military ones, are designed to feed from the magazine only.
Point taken as a medium I think it would work great. I still use it as a general purpose lube and it works all right. I would never use my own money to buy it. Way over hyped.
Industrial Mechanic here. We are forced to use Kroil in the facility we maintain because that is what the company supplies. Not one time in 15 years I have put this on a rusted bolt and been like wow it just come right off even after leaving it soak. Quite the opposite. The can says it will creep in a space a million of a inch. Lol Total Bullshit. I have put this onto of rusted studs and nuts overnight guess what it did not creep into the threads at all.
Nothing beats Acetone/Atf for loosening rusted bolts. wd40, pb blaster are all overhyped. In this application here, kroil is a medium to carry and distribute the jb paste, like a thinner :) and it works.
Hello from Finland, Europe. Interesting to see your video and test. I`ve been reloading this 300gr socom TTSX for 45-70 Marlin for 6 years now. My recepy i almost identical to yours. 46.3gr of Vihtavuori N120, +-2,520" Coal. I just cut of the tip with dog nail clippers :D. Cuts it nice and clean. My Gun is a -08 JM Marlin XLR Evo converted to "SBL". That meaning the barrel has been shortened to 18.5". At first i tested higher loads, but it was terrible to shoot, and i wasn`t happy with the grouping. Then i lowered the load a bit and found a sweet spot from the load mentioned above. I got average speeds of 606ms. That it just below 2000fps. My average group size is 30mm/100m. So just a little over and 1 inch. Many times almost the same hole. This is shot with a Leupold VX freedom 1.5-4x28 long eyerelief scope so nothing fancy optics there. I`ve shot about 25 moose with this load and not one has gone past 100m. I`ve been gettin pass troughs more than half of the bullets i`ve shot, so there is plenty of power with this load and bullet. The weights of the bullets i`ve found from the moose has been almost 100%. I`ve found about 10 bullets and only two of them had loose two "leafs", ither than that they are perfect mushrooms. Somebody asked about the speeds that this Socom TTSX is build to open. If i remeber right Barnes factory info was ~335ms/1,100 fps
Hello! The dog nail clippers idea is one of the best tip I ever received! I'm jealous to not have come up with the idea! Thanks for sharing :) It's pretty common that the most accurate load is not going to be your fastest. I've seen that often. What is your typical distance for these moose? I had issues past 150meters.
@@WildBushGrit Hah, happy to give some usefull tips. I didn`t want to chase the max speeds for "no reason". I wanted the gun to be nice to practice while having enough speed and power to work well, and also being accurate. That being said i dont shoot ttsx for practice(too expencive. 116$ for 50pc here). For that use i have Hornady interlock HP`s, but with similar load to be nice to shoot. In Finland for moose the minimum energy requirement is 1900J at 100m. and my load gives me 2523J(1861ft). This power and accuracy has proven it self many times now. In Finland we have a lot of dence forrests and the distances are usually very short. Especially the style i hunt(a traditional way to hunt moose in northern countries like Finland, Sweden and Norway). We use trained dogs that track and stop the moose with standing bark. Then we sneak up very close to the moose. I`ve shot many under 50m. So with this style there is no need for maximize the power. I have tested the bullet drop for longer distanses like 150-200m. Yes, the drop is a lot compared to many other calibers but there is a reason to call the 45-70 a "brush gun". I have other rifles to use if i know i will be shooting longer distances. With 45-70 the longest adult bull moose i`ve shot was about 120m. It went about 30m and stood while i gave him a nother shot and dropped it to it`s tracks. The first one was allready taken both lungs, but i wanted to make sure. Usually like 9/10 times i haven`t had to shoot more than one shot, eaven those being mostly lung shots. This TTSX works very well giving a good shock, making a big wound channel, and still not leaving a lot of messy meat.
@@Arzan81 That's pretty consistent with my finding aswell, What I found at longer range, as the speed drop, the nose points up and get overstabilized, and it become extremely unpredictable once the animal is hit. I had a deer with the weirdest wound chanel, the bullet entered near the heart, but completely veered 90 deg, grazed the lung, and went through the liver before exiting. the shot was 170 yards. Too far, lesson learned :)
@@WildBushGrit Yeah, there is time and place for this gun and caliber. But it`s not in the long range shooting or hunting. Still my favorite gun of all time. Well, hard to deside between my combound bow or Marlin, but easily in the top two =D
thanks for sharing. I'll have to give this stuff a try. Have you every tried the nylon brushes? I'm not sure where I land on the whole bronze brush thing, however a lot of guys who won't use the bronze brush seem to suggest the nylon brushes are fine.
The nylon is better than just a jag and a patch, but won't be as effective as the bronze brush. People that are afraid of bronze brushes don't understand hardness in metal. You can't remove the bluing on a barrel using a bronze brush, which is 2.5Microns, or 0.0001 inches.
I have a borescope and use it to track the carbon ring, but honestly the FEEL of the cleaning rod is the best indicator of cleanliness IMO. If you have stubborn copper near the muzzle (and it seems it’s always near the muzzle) and stubborn carbon near the chamber (and it seems it’s always near the chamber), then I think it’s there because that’s the “equilibrium” the barrel needs to be consistent. I will say though that the Tubb Final Finish bullets are a great way to improve the surface finish of the bore. You can feel the difference in the cleaning rod- it’s drastic.
The 9.3x64 Brenneke cartridge is an even better choice compared to the 375 H -H uses 8% less powder and is a more modern example. Living in South Africa l use this as my standard rifle caliber.
After 40 + years of competitive shooting I might be able to help . First I was wearing at least one barrel out a year both in XTC and LR so I had a lot of new barrels to work with . This notion of breaking in barrels is a wast of time , don't bother . I've gone to matches with one round out of the barrel and won matches when the first shots were taken from standing ..yep zeroing while standing at 200 yards . Ok , first FIND a powder that does not foul , believe me there are some powders that will not shoot the first shot accurately , and there are others that will shoot the first shot after clean right in the middle . And the biggest bane is finding out that the powder your using isn't the same lot to lot and so much so that it can come darn close to blowing the rifle up ! Another problem was I used R22 that was US made then went to buy the next can and it was make in Sweden and was nothing like the old powder . I've also has some really crap powder sold by a company in Tennessee that was great until I got one lot that ruined 5 barrels and kept me off the 1989 Palma team to Australia because it had contamination that made DEEP grooves in the steel and the resulting velocity made vertical strings at 1000 yards . Finding a powder is your #1 PROBLEM ! The ONLY powder I found that was consistent lot to lot and tear to year is made in Finland so you can figure that out . That powder was so GREAT that after 66 rds in XTC and not cleaning it I shot a 200-20X Iron sight string @ 500 yds at Camp Atterbury years ago . NOW cleaning the barrels . First I never had copper fouling and I never used JB or other abrasives , I don't recommend them . While on the 1995 US Palma team to NZ we had been using 2208 which later was relabeled Varget . I shot 435 rds with out cleaning just to see when it would foul out and it didn't while shooting the supplied powder in the US . Then we got to NZ and they had loaded ammo with 2 different lots , one being the good stuff like we had in the US and the other that had a different color and fouled very quickly . With the powder that fouled it did so about a 1/2 in down the throat and GLAZED and no solvent would touch it ! So i reverted to JB and I learned that glazed powder and JB ends up polishing the steel all around the glazed area , polishing steel away while leaving the glazed fouling there ! As a result a ruined barrel ! I put up with this crap powder from Australia for years and it got down to cleaning every 12 shots and even at that I was keeping about 80% of the sighters in Fullbore . Eventually everyone else noticed the problem and then the energy of the powder dropped and the charge had to be moved from 45.5 to over 47 grs of that same powder to get the same velocity with a compressed load that then didn't shoot well ! That Australian powder company knew they had problems and kept making crap the they shut down and supposedly revamped the process , all the while the customers were getting their garbage ! And the other part not all of their powders were bad ! How we dealt with the fouling issue . Bronze brush and old Hoppies #9 and I later made my own Edd's Red , acetone , mineral spirits and automatic transmission fluid . Here is my point some of the solvents you tried are more like detergents and leave the barrel too dry and the steel too bare so that when you fire the first shot your leaving copper in the barrel especially after lapping the barrel with JB , that is a NO NO !! Look what is in Edd's Red , Acetone to break down fouling , the mineral spirits is also a cleaner and leave a fine film as does the automatic transmission fluid which is a light wt hydraulic oil . This cleans and leaves a FILM of lubricant in the barrel that prevents that first round copper fouling ! This formula was developed by Ed Harris at Lake City in the 40-50's and it proved its value in extending the life of proof barrel used in testing ammo lots . What your failing to pick up on is a clean barrel does NOT necessarily equate to an ACCURATE BARREL CONDITION . Kroil is a penetrate lubricant , use to be made from coal and 'can not' be used in engine crank cases as the Germans found out in WW2 ! You can burn it but you can't lubricate with it , aka a fuel but not an oil . As your barrel gets older , I noted yours was nearly new , you will get cracking in the throat . Then when you clean the barrel after a match and then look at the barrel the next week the throat looks fuzzy from the fouling coming out of the cracks from the cleaning of a week before . Solution clean just before the match ! Good Luck , M Maxberry
Wow there's a lot here, thank you for the elaborate and detailed comment. Just want to highlight this is not my typical routine to clean my barrels, I used the JB and kroil to get rid of the old carbon that was stuck there. My go-to now is Ed's red, I did a quick short video about it. It truly works. After a session at the range, while the barrel is still warm, I run a wet patch, and leave it there until I come back home for the cleaning. For the break-in procedure its really depend how much you shoot a year and the manufacturing of the barrel. Most hunters will shot a box top. I know some that shoot 1-2 bullets a year(sad). But its really depend on the barrel manufacturer, some barrel has lots of tooling marks that will reduce your velocity and increase copper fouling. For hunters going through that break-in will help gain velocity and makes cleaning easier. I have rifles that needed 150-200 bullets to reach peak velocity. My only guess here if you get a AAA barrel its probably hand lapped for you then break-in is not needed, but I could be wrong. For years I bought into the popular belief that bronze brushes were bad for a barrel. Which sparks the idea of this video. Question for you, how would you tackle carbon ring or glazed carbon without a bronze brush?
@@WildBushGrit Your question is one that is rather difficult , how to get a glazed carbon ring out ? #1 I would not use JB for that as you'll polish much more steel away before you get that ring out and that will damage the barrel . First you have to understand it is the make of powder that caused the problem and continued use of it will NOT improve that situation , change powder. This type of fouling generally occurs about a 1/2 down the barrel where the checking in the throat is , but it can happen on a nearly new barrel as well. After you have changed powder I would disregard the glazed area do your normal shooting unless your a high precession shooter and when the barrel got hot soak it in Kroil and let it sit then clean it . The problem is that chemicals don't do good work against ring glazed barrel , but shooting , getting it warm and soaking can work . DO not JB until after all of it is out of the barrel . Basically clean it and shoot it out . I know thats not what you want to hear . There are anti carbon solutions that can also be used but many of them are carcinogenic, thats another option .
@@The762nato I'm just seeking practical solutions for newcomers & hunters who wants to up their game.(pun intended) Many aren't reloaders and don't have the luxury of changing powders, they will usually go with what group best in their rifles and stick with it as long as there is a supply. The first rule in my opinion is to not get carbon deposit, but following the procedures in gun cleaning products is what got me here. Without a borescope it was impossible to tell. Bronze brushes are vilified without reason, and I'm 100% convinced the bronze brush did the brunt of the work here. Even after the JB, my rifle still shoot lights out, 1/4 to 1/2 MOA. I truly enjoy this chat, one of the many reason I started this channel, a place where we can share and learn and I thank you for that. This is my short on Ed's Red ru-vid.comO4INqIsGIRA?feature=share its just the classic recipe. Have you tweaked your recipe?
No ATF it is abrasive. I like the Kerosene mineral sprites. I oil my guns with Blaster which is cheap . The nest oil is Kroil. It peniteates and has anti corrosive
ATF can't be abrasive, imagine the damage it would do to car transmissions. My 2010 jk runs on atf, after 300k you'd thought that transmission is brand new when I tear it down. If I'm wrong, I'd say JB paste or iosso bore paste has an even higher grit, and still great gun cleaners.
Hello I use the same method as you except with iosso bore cleaner paste and balistol oil. Simply because I could get these products easily. But now I have a problem with a nasty persistent carbon ring. How would you attack it ?
I'd run an upsized bronze brush. Kroil is very penetrating and of lower viscosity than ballistol. For a one time type of thing, maybe using an ammonia based solvent, but beware not to let it sit too long, as it could etch your barrel. It also need to be properly cleaned out once complete.
@@WildBushGrit tried a .366 bronze brush in the .284. Apparently did a little I'll keep soaking it with some carbon remover overnights and corded drill "machining".
@@WildBushGrit good point thank you !!! the vfg system is rather interesting. I was about to buy one then I went for the bore tech jag. Definitely I think the missing link in my "carbon ring stack" is the kroil. Since I wrote my first comment I managed to obtain some improvement with the iosso bore cleaner. I'll start having a look at the vfg and in the future I'll run the kroil with iosso or JB paste according to their availability
tbh I don't know anything that would cut hard-carbon crusted barrel, except mechanically removing it with a good bronze brush and some kroil oil. Most of the products are all snake-oil, and anything with ammonia is a no-no for me. If you leave it too long, it will etch your barrel. ER is great if you clean regularly your rifle. Especially when they are still warm from the range. I'll run a wet patch with ER at the range, then do the cleaning at home. That being said, mechanics use MEK to remove carbon from cylinder bore. I'll need a crusted barrel to run that experiment :)
Bro I just found your channel and have been endless watching ur vids for the past hour. I’m amazed by what you do. Keep the videos coming, love from Australia 🙏
Im looking to get the smallest i can find , i use it for my target shooting and don't have to much space in my ryobi pack out chest thanks for the review
I have a 20-60 with a smaller lense, 55 or 60 I don't remember. It's yours if you want. Its much smaller and light. I bought it from Sail. Drop me an email (contact info in the channel description)
You are correct on the Kroil and JB Bore scrubber, I have used them for years. One addition to your cleaning routine would be to use the bore scrubber pellets with threaded jag. Here is a video from Brownells - Using JB Bore Paste and Kroil with the VFG Bore Pellets. It will give you the result you desire! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JaPzrAfemIE.html
@@WildBushGrit brownells should have them in stock. I have them for my .22lr sniper rifle and my .308 1000 yard rifle I built. I have seen some bench rest shooters used a 12” long non movable handle with bronze brush that will let you spin it in the chamber to instantly twist out the carbon.
The video about the chamber brush was from Pursuit of accuracy and using a bore scope is a must, also check out Eric Cortina, he has a great cleaning tutorial using a bore scope
Thank you! Absolutely, look at the Jaeger from Alaska Knives. D2 Steel, 18 to 20 angle, 3.5 inches, perfect for boning and caping. It's less than 100$ and you also get the leather sheath. I have a boning knife from them, they are really well made.
Wipe Out isn’t really meant to work on hard carbon, I mean, I’m sure the bottle says you can use it for that, but Wipe Out is for your copper fouling. That’s the real purpose, and it works amazing for it.
Great video and info! Im working a load for this bullet for my ruger no1 and leave the tip. If the results are good it will be joining me on my moose hunt!
Had a Mosin m44 with a good bore but black as night so I shot 30 rounds as fast I could then plugged the muzzle with a couple of patches then stuck the bayonet into the dirt , removed the bolt and filled up the total bore after the fire went out . Then I scrubbed with a bronze brush 20 times and then patched it clean and another 10 strokes and a patch to clean the bore . Fricking bright and shinny as new , im still amazed on how clean it got . Top notch stuff for just about anything
I dont mind the Chinese mov steels for hunting. They sharpen up so ez in the bush with a jewel stick. I prefer a medium steel like nc28n as it hold an edge longer but still can sharpen in the bush
My son has them and loves them , i'm looking at the Zamberlan LYNX MID GTX their expensive but heard that they are amazing for early hunting season a friend has hunted with them for the last 5 years and said they are amazing.love watching your vids u always bring new products to us and experience thank you
I only heard good things about Zamberlan, I almost bought a pair last year, but a Lowa Zephyr MK2 GTX was on sale, I couldn't pass on. It was lighter than the Zamberlan I was eyeing. Instant comfort, no breaking needed. No regret. Better than the Danner I had, which are also great. I suggest you just try them in a store, but I have zero doubt about the Zamberlan, they have a reputation of solid construction.
If you love the results of the JB paste, try it with the felt pellets, rather than a patch. Better fit in the bore and applies the JB evenly and consistently.
I live in the US and found it interesting to find out that Canadian firearms owners have to deal with similar political incompetence by the liberal side of your government just as we do. As you mentioned in an earlier comment on this same post, these type bills have little to nothing to do with actually protecting citizens or reducing crime, theyre about earning votes from the ignorant 😊voters who support these politicians.
Great video. I have been looking for a Steel Shot Wad for 28Ga. Do you know of ANY other Wads that are available and suitable for loading Nontoxic shot? Thanks in advance for your time and help.
Really cool and helpful video. This video and the previous one (Hornady ftx comparison) helped me a lot. I will start with your Barnes 47gr TSX load! Best regards from Germany
