This channel was created spontaneously as the culmination of many short clip videos that I sent to family members about my 7.3 Powerstroke that was giving me trouble. I could not find any videos on converting a Powerstroke 7.3 to 5.9 Common Rail Cummins. I mainly found 12 valve conversions for the Powestroke 6.4 trucks. So here we are with my project 7.3 Powerstroke converted to Common Rail 5.9 to as close to stock setup as possible. Thanks for watching and subscribing to my Truman Show. My background in diesel is Volkswagen TDI and 91Bravo. HOOAH!! Yes, I am an American Vet.
Most older fully mechanical diesel engines are similar enough that oil pressure specs from one can roughly translate to another. The 7.3 Idi made by navistar international is spec’d at “1psi of oil pressure per hundred engine rpm when hot” so idling at +/-750 rpm, 7.5psi oil pressure is perfectly acceptable. Also, on those gear driven oil pumps, they are just pumps built to maximize oil flow. They do not self-regulate the pressure. On the 7.3 Idi and power stroke, the oil pressure is regulated by a valve seated in the rear oil cooler head/oil filter housing. Chances are that there’s nothing wrong with the old pump, that the spring on the oil pressure regulator valve is worn, broken, etc. if you can access it, you can shim it or replace it. I was able to stack a couple of washers under the spring in my 7.3 Idi and that brought oil pressure up a noticeable amount at cold start up, at operating temp driving and idle. A fresh engine rebuild means nothing if the oil pressure regulator has seen 2 million miles! Find the valve, stick a washer under it, put it back together.
Dang dude I recognize your yard. I’ve bought a couple things from you off the marketplace lol! Your 5.9 common rail was still sitting on the floor back then.
Hello Joshua, I agree. The 12 PSI at idle is above the minimum but the current reading appear to be pointing to the bearing problem you originally suggested. I installed the 8.3 pump to see what the figures would be with a higher volume pump. That 2000 rpm 20 psi appear low (or is that the relief valve dumping the oil)----but is in spec of the 10 psi for every 1000 RPM rule. The only way to be sure of what clearances the engine builder installed is to pull the motor and tear down as you suggested..... I don't have the time for that. The good is that I could drive it as is until it let go...My luck...it probably would never blow up. That would give me a reason to Common Rail it. ha ha.
@@AlxBilt now I'm thinking about getting one of these 8.3 pumps for my ultimate build I'm doing. I've already added a girdle, arp main bolts, total seal piston rings, Hamilton towing cam with matching springs and push rods, fire ring half in the block and half in the head, 24 hardened valve seats, balanced rotating assembly, fluidamper, might as well add the higher volume oil pump to protect the investment
Would you build one of these for a guy if he paid you for your time and materials? I’m sure I could put it all together but would have no idea how to upload the data needed
@@westhompson7295 Hello, Thanks for checking out my project. The project is reasonable cheap to construct for the DIY-er. The benefit of such a project being "open source code" is that you, the Diy-er, would personally be able to add more features (using your programming skills would add additional coding or in the alternative, Joshua added more coding on his GIT-hub page. Checkout his channel for the full potential of this Teensy dev board) to interface with the J1939 bus. As to my 2006 Common Rail - the 2006 does not have J1939 bus. It uses CAN bus. You can see the many active PIDs in one of my other videos, such as the most recent Common Rail road test with cruise control. What I show in this video is my Common Rail profile settings in my OBD2 scan tool. That may have caused the potential confusion. I would need to setup a profile in my OBD2 scan tool specifically for the VP44 PIDs instead of my current Common Rail PIDs. Back to your request. You would still need to add additional J1939 connectors to plug into your stock J1939 harness or wiring in a new pair to connect to the Teensy DEV board. You would then need the OBD2 pigtail harness to connect to the second half of the Teensy external CAN boards as shown in the video. FYI - All needed items I used are listed in the description from Amazon and eBay. It is best to take a moment and learn the basics of coding so you can alter different features - once you got the hang of it because you still may need help and I would not be able to give you coding support since I would be too busy. Still want on me to build you one? Send an email to me and I will send you an invoice through PayPal. FYI- The alternative is you build it and then I send you a step by step tutorial or directions on how to get it functional for sponsorship.
Great work! It's amazing to see someone else giving this a go, that's when you find the real bugs lol😂 the Cummins won't give you throttle percentage until it is running, it's highly annoying. I only implemented the pids I used, so no trouble codes or freeze frame, but those surely could be implemented!
Small steps but we are getting there. Thanks for the feedback on the throttle percentage, fault code and freeze frame. There is plenty of room for advancement.
These videos can be of much help to the next owner. This makes clear, what was fixed here. If I buy a used car, I would be happy to have repair chronicles like these.
Ok you use the Cummins ecm to connect injectors and crank and cam sensor? How do you plug both pcm and ecm together? Thank you for answering I just subscribe
@@Efectoeficaz Thanks for the new subscription. You do not need to plug Ford PCM and Cummins ECM together. They operate as standalone--separately to continue their independent functions. Ford PCM runs the gauges for driver's reference while the Cummins ECM runs the 5.9 engine. The only way the PCM and ECM are joined is through the SwapHelper to run the tachometer.
Nice job brother….keep going….. I want to swap mine as well…. Need an engine mine is a 08 6.4 4x4….I’m a fan of your work….. I’m located in Apple Valley…California….thanks for sharing
No in-depth video on wiring because that would take hours. I have updated the description with a nice wiring guide for the VP44 that I came across from another fellow. I use the actual Mitchell manuals but his diagram project is very informative.
Hi Alex!!! You said, you'd removed a TX line from ABS. This sounds confusing. Hmmm... CAN has no Tx/Rx lines. Next time you make a video, can you draw a full connection diagramm? This is 99%, that the answer is really simple, but although we can't figure out this
Hello Alex Sv. Thanks for commenting for clarity. ---So in the first half of the video I spoke about having both Doge ABS Module and Canny connected to the same CANbus hi / lo wires (TX sending and RX receiving) at the same time to get the Engine Module to acknowledge the Canny debugging broadcast speed of 11 mph. I believe the Engine module acknowledged the Canny speed of 11 mph only because the ABS module was broadcasting the required (missing ID 0x215 bit D1 from Canny) "checksum" as you stated in our private email. In the second half of video, the Doge ABS Module connection to the CANbus ( hi / lo wires) were no longer required to emulate the "checksum" for the Engine Module to acknowledge the prescribed Canny vehicle speed of 17 mph. This was accomplished with Canny Logic sending a test diagram to emulate D1, the second bit (D1) of ID 0x215 being D0_0E * D1_52* with remaining bits D2_00 D3_00 D4_00 D5_00 D6_04. There is no D7 in ID 0x215. I think D2-D5 is distance value bits or a time value bits. This is due to when D0 value (sensor pulse) is injected in the ABS Module then bit D2-D5 are counting up sequentially with same values in pairs (D2 and D4; D3 and D5). My current thinking is if Canny can be programmed with D2-D5 as up counters in reference to D0 input -- then perhaps the Engine Module will fully accept the broadcast byte pertaining to vehicle speed without sporadic interference.
When trying to inject a custom data: are trying to send as "one mouse click - one message"? I think you need to make it periodic. In the previous video it was like periodical "bursts", and then - silence. For example, in most japanese cars this period should be 50 messages per second. Otherwise the engine ECU ignores injected data. Also you can try the other conditions, for example, start the engine or try moving. For example, in Honda, the speed data is ignored unless a car is moving. In my CRV I had to simulate both: speed data and "vehicle moving" flag. Judging from the video, this setup MUST work. Can you try CANNY on another car? You need to make sure, that this piece of the chain works.
@alexsv1834 Thanks for appearing. You always have good information. To answer your question. In the beginning I injected a constant "bursts" of messages just as a test to see if the data would register. In the end I executed the "one mouse click" data transmission as another test with the Dodge ABS module connected to see if it would be accepted by the engine's computer. I will try your recommendation. CANNY spoke to me live in a Google Meeting. They request a live vehicle data log. I plan on building a Gateway with my STM32F407 for further testing, but I don't have the time yet. I believe we will get it to work soon. STAY TUNED!!!
This is a great progress, Alex!!! You're using a Dakota Digital device, that you call a "Speed generator". Back in the day I'd used a lot of Dakota Digital devices, but another model, the speed (frequency) convertors. What was really surprising for me: a Toyota (Land Cruisers 100, 120) dashboard (in stock) was supposed to read a SQUARE 5Volt pulses, but a Dakota Digital box had a SINE from -12 to +12 Volt output!!! But this was not a big deal, everything worked just fine!!!
Dig it!! Had a 77' with gti engine and 5 speed trans and that little rig was quick.. Non turbo but she still would smoke z cars of the time (late 80's).. Had the original dash so no tach and speedo only went to 105 mph but I know I got that thing well over that on many occasions.. 🤙
I ran a turbo Supra once in my Rabbit. The Supra driver was laughing when he blew past me while I was cruising. When I got in front of him - he stopped laughing. Good Times brother.... The good ole days.
This is a long shot but I’ve been messing with making a stand alone for a 5.9 common rail. I can get it to fire but dies right after and can’t get it to idle. Would you mind explaining what all you hooked up to start it and have it idle? Thank you
Thanks for checking out my channel. FYI-My input is only my experience for entertainment purposes. As to your question. It sounds like the immobilizer is activated. Where the engine turns on for about 3 seconds or so and dies. Then will not restart until you "cycle the key" or in a swap bench test on the ground-your cut power to the ECM and reapply power to the ECM then engage the starter as if the key was cycled. I had similar issue but then I sent my ECM out to be immo-deactivated. Supposedly you can DIY immo-deactivate yourself by using a tuner. I saw a guy do it with HPTuners. I have HPTuners after I already had the immo-deactivated so I cannot confirm. Playing around with HPTuner MPVI2-I did see the option but there is a trick to it. Supposedly you would reflash your ECM and keep the immobilzer box check. Then reflash a second time with it uncheck. Does not make sense to me but there is a video of the process. Good luck brother.
Can you tell me what wires you connected on the cummins ECM to what pin numbers on the obdII port to get the scan tool to work? Cant find much info on this subject. Thanks
The pin numbers depend on the year of ECM. If you use the pins I used without understanding electrical system--you might destroy your ECM. The OBD port pin position also depends on your vehicle's year... In an attempt to keep it simple, I ran a separate OBD2 port. I made the additional port identical to the donor truck's OBD pin position. You can find OBD port pin position from the ECM to OBD port in your donor truck's wiring diagram.With that said, this 06/07 CR ECM can-bus twisted together wires are pin 4 (white/lt green) pin 5 (white/lt blue) on the 60 pin ECM harness. WARNING: Get competent electrical assistance.
@@AlxBilt Thanks for the reply, Yes I see now yours is newer. my engine is an older 03. I already have wiring diagrams for the 03 Dodge truck but I think there is some mistakes in the pin numbers in the obd2 plug in the engine wiring page. The computer datalink page appears to be correct..
