Welcome to the official RU-vid channel of WyshTech Airsoft! Here we cover product reviews, How-tos, unboxings, and provide assistance with any projects you may have. There is a NEW video posted every Monday! _______________________________ Join the Wyshtech Community! _______________________________ ::Exclusive content!:: INSTAGRAM: bit.ly/WyshtechInsta TWITTER: bit.ly/WyshTechTwitter ================================= ::Need help fixing your AEG? or a place to hang out?:: TWITCH AIRSOFT TECH Q&A LIVE STREAMS: bit.ly/WyshtechTwitchTv DISCORD CHANNEL : bit.ly/WyshtechDiscord =================================
Thanks to ur video I got myself a DD5” as a cheap way to get a full metal AR free case and grip. Now thinking if I want to open the gun up to try making it better Edit: atm I switch the motor to a 23k classic army motor, spring and T connector. Rn doing 1.1j
If you never worked on an airsoft gun before. I HIGHLY recommend against it UNLESS you have another rifle. Just incase you make mistakes or change your mind during the process. This is a VERY common mistake that people regret and end up sending me thier rifle anyway.
Hey bro. Great vid. How was your stock krytac air nozzle. Would you change it to one with a better seal?. Ive seen videos about the stock krytac air nozzle doesn't have a good seal. ( No o ring ) Just wondering if this is true. Cheers.
Its fine the way it is. You'll gain little performance and it also depends on the brand of nozzle with oring you go with. My favorite combo is EPeS nozzle and EPeS EF (extra fit) cylinder head. It always gives maximized seal with absolutely no leaks even with the nozzle all the way forward. It also NEARLY eliminates nozzle wobble. Which nozzle wobble is ONE of the causes of mid cap syndrome.
@@wyshtechairsoft I purchased the Prometheus one that's specifically for krytac m4s series.. As I have the trident spr. Very curious on the "little performance" it would have. I haven't put it on yet. Will update when I do so. Thanks for your information and replying back !
This is a pretty thorough method. Was able to do this with the Ava-4 with a lot less filing. The biggest points are the post that blocks the perun from sitting properly. The raised screw post needs to be filed down slightly so the screw can be more flush. The little bevel in the perun is required to move the perun about 1/8" to the left. But that's it from what I witnessed. Bevel outside the gearbox for the selector plate is required. You don't have to put the safety lever back in if you don't want to. That's a realism feature, Perun will cut off when switched to safety. I totally understand why people would want to put it back. A perk of the optical sensor though. and the trigger mount is magnetic so it will stay in place while you put the pin back through the lower and function as it should. I also used one of the standard stickers and trimmed the over hanging black portion. If the obstructing post is filed relatively flat as well as the screw post, that should be ample room. Nothing wrong with taking the extra precaution but I wanted to share my experience! Great vid.
27k brushless will be fine without doing any upgrades. As for the spring, it depends on the brand. Since no all brand's m100s have the same tension. For example, ive had m100's make my airsoft guns shoot 400fps on the dot.
Hey man, so the Solink motors are advertised as being unidirectional, meaning that you can delete the anti-reversal latch. I'm wondering if this makes the gun any quieter, have you tried it?
Solink did recommend to keep the torque at 60% In China, the solink v5 is retailing at ~90USD with the programming card, which still consider as overpriced by the local
Hey im also building the cyma sr25 but i would like a faster trigger response, the problem is there are no 13:1 gears with that pickup pin position is it realy that big of a problem?
For faster trigger response you need to short stroke the sr25 because if you try to keep the 19 teeth and try to go over 20rps (rps is just a metric to get an idea of trigger response) it will PME. That being said, you can just put a standard 13:1 gearset and the high torque motor that come with these are perfect for that ratio and adding a m110 spring to retain 370 to 400fps. If you are worried about air volume ratio - just install a shorter barrel for whatever weight bb you plan to use.
Can you test this motor on a titan ii!?!gate threw a "new" motor that is compatible with the titan ii and can adjust the motor revs via the app!!!so can you check if the original solink gen5 can do this adjustment too!?!?
Can i add 595mm inner barrel on this Dragunov? I own a better barrel than the default one, the problem is that the default one is 680mm...could i get deflection of the projectile at the exit by doing this change, what do you say?
Hello. I've done all as described. Sticker all fine. All sensors checked as shown. Full reset done and it's firing in full auto on semi but about 4 rounds, on full auto it's full auto until you release the trigger. When on semi trigger pulled I also can't spam the trigger, there's a wait then it ticks and I can fire again. Anybody had this issue? Please help.
Hey ! I've got a question considering yhe trigger micro switch and the little white piece that gets pressed. ( 6:16 ) Does it suppose to move back after release ? I've got some issue with my mp7 and i suppose that comes from that.
Fantastic video, love the rpm tachometer, I've been using the laser version and it's a pita. Just got a budget Solink and T238 in to test. Interested to see what type of bearing they used to achieve the unidirectional function as it's super easy to break these small bearings.
You're absolutely correct but this video was to keep the rifle 1.5J or lower and STILL be able to sufficiently shoot .40g as you cannot shoot a .40g bb without proper air/volume ratio adjustment. Which in this video was supposed to show how that works.
When you say "bull tooth lifters" did you mean the bullgear tappet plate? Metal nozzles are more reliable in my opinion as they do not get damaged when you have a bb jam and these MP7's are prone to jam at higher rate of fire.
Great video as always! I will be stopping by in the future to purchase an new cylinder/piston and motor and maybe a new gearset for my aeg. This video helped in regards to info plus you're local to me and better than Ben (you know your "favorite" Ben) at airsoft tech.
@@wyshtechairsoft so you have play left to right on the gear however that play is just in the races of the bearings. Meaning there is no movement of that axle in the centre bearing race. That’s best case but depends on size of shims you have available
PME means Pre Mature Engagement. It's where either the piston OR the tappet plate gets picked up too early and causes failures such as damaging piston, gears, bearings (if installed), massive drop in fps, horrible fps consistency, etc. I dont have a video about it yet but I recommend searching youtube about "airsoft pme". There is some damn good videos that explain it in depth.
I typically use a Li-Po (NOT Li-Ion) GNB 11.1v 30c/60c 1500mah. I sell them on my website if you're interested. They provide excellent discharge so much so that Ive seen up to 5 rps increase vs other brand 11.1v LiPo of the similar spec.
.3mm of spacing is a bit excessive in my opinion. I always shim no higher than .2mm, typically .1mm. Then make damn sure theres .2mm spacing between the gears AFTER I shim bevel to pinion. Works every time!
That's the stock gears and microphone amplifying the noise for ya. I could make it better if the customer let me install Wyshtech/JVAN gearset and pinion.
@@wyshtechairsoftCopping out with saying that if the customer got your specific gears it would sound better comes off as very lazy at best, and incompetent at worst. A decent tech would and should be able to shim stock gears decently. Audio quality excuse is lame, it should not sound that poor with and without the precocking even with a crappy microphone
Here are my build tips for these. Tip 1: don't buy it. The internals are among some of the worst and at this price point you'd expect it to at least last a few years considering cyma Ak's and g&g raiders refuse to die. And worst of all parts are proprietary. Bullgear makes a CNC tappet plate which is a horrible idea. The piston is half length. Cylinder same thing. There's a 4th gear. Same reason I don't like svd's as aeg's.m and none of the gears are standard Seriously save the money for a gbb. Yes it's $700 for the gun and 6 mags but it will at least run for a long time and whenever something does break you can always get parts for it.
Great video! Just getting into airsoft so I was hoping you could help me a bit. When you talk about removing teeth, do you mean from the gear or the piston? What speed motor would you recommend to get about 25-30 RPS? Have a perun mosfet and was given a set of 13:1 gears. Have a 7.4 lipo but was considering upgrading to a 11.1 if I can find one to fit. Thank for your help and keep making these videos!
These a great questions! To better help you with your questions. Hop over to my bio and join the Wyshtech Discord! Copy and paste your questions over in the #airsoft-tech-help channel. Thanks for watching and your kind words dude!
It's what I had on hand at the time and I could get it to exactly to where I want it. No, 1mm wont make any noticeable difference. Its what I ended up with when I cut it down. Margin of error, if that makes sense.
