Those turnbuckles would have been better at the other ends of the cables where there’s more space for them, and they need Jam nuts on the threads not only to lock them from turning, but to keep pressure on the turnbuckle threads so they don’t wear out and pull through from things like expansion contraction with heat, and movement from wind.
The turnbuckles would be less accessible out on the boom if you're standing on the top of the tower. You're correct! They'd have more space but you'd need a lift to adjust them. Having them up at the center of the boom let's you adjust from tower top.
Is that a 3" boom? Sure looks smaller like a 2"? I'll have to check Maco specs on that boom size. I would not use that black plastic wire wrapper it's corrugated which can hold water. Good electrical tape about every 12"s would have probably done as good of a job without holding any water inside. Get stainless steel lock nuts with a nylon lock it will be better than lock washers.
Looks good. I'm not a know-it-all trust me. I heard you say in the video you planned on building a 70 or 80 90 ft long that is the Boom length. And you said 8, 9, or more elements. The more elements you have does not increase your DB gain. Try doing 6 elements on a 40 ft boom. The longer the Boom the more DB gain. ✌️❤️
Wast of time and money with ancient gamma feed wrong spacing Yagi design . This could be a great 10-meter monobander with 2 to 3 more dbd gain and would be so broad banded you could still use it on the chicken band🤣🤣
Purpose of the egg insulators that's should be every 3 feet on that boom guy if that cable has metal or copper conductor it will try to resonate. I used polyurethane string changed it every couple years no reflect from guys.
We just built 1 of these M-107C but we went with 1/4 inch dacron rope and we used the 4 links at the top and hooked rope through them to the turnbuckle mounted near the boom . . On the boom where the bracket is for the truss support we added these 4 turnbuckles and tightened the boom up www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F28QPP7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .These fit perfect for the bracket . SWR is 1.1-1 across almost 1 MHz of bandwidth or 100 channels . Thanks for your ideas. We will use locktite to keep the nuts and bolts in place .
@@James_Bowie I hear you James, but now they shorten the element length by a third and replace it with loading coils on the ends. Miniature beams with the urban look for us city dwellers 😊
I had this idea for a vertical antenna taking a 10 foot piece of 2 inch pvc tubing and putting in 6 gauge solid copper wire measure 18 feet coil to half its length put inside of pvc tubing caps on both ends one has a n connector for coax the other has a nut for a 102 inch whip to screw into, would make a 3/4ths wave antenna and work great if you get your swrs low
I have heard that some tried to build a full wave of 36' but I've yet to hear anyone who had much or any success trying it. The 102" stainless steel Whip is actually too short it should be closer to 108" or 9' which is an actual 1/4 wave.
Wow you only have a 20 ft tower, ( 2 ) 10 ft section, I put up 10 sections of tower all by myself, it took me about 2 weeks every 3rd section I guyed it off, the top guy wires ,i put insulators in 2 ft intervals for 20 ft out from the top set of guy wires,, to break up the ground plane effect,, it's a great directional beam..
Very nice there, I’ve been wondering is it ok to mount a rotor down towards the bottom a pole mast and let the rotor turn the pole which will be supported by a carrier bearing up near the top so the rotor won’t be taking a beating by the wind blowing on the beam causing it to wear on the rotor? I’m new to this beam thing, I will be getting myself a maco m103 this weekend I’ll move up to a 105 later on, I’ve also heard that if you use a metal mast of any kind to hold the beam up in the air the metal interferes with the beam, is there any truth to this?
not really Mike,maybe,maybe only if you put it up vertically,and then if its not aligned properly,parallel beam element to mask pole.But not really,myth.My moonrakers were on a long mask pole with rotor down below the tip of beam.No you can run the rotor up close to where the pole meets the boom,at the 'T'.
Mike Hannahs 261 Canyon Hopper put a thrust bearing near the top of the tower and mount the rotor at ground level if you like it there and have the extra mast pipe. I don’t know what a mask pipe is that the other guy mentioned? I have seen many rotors mounted near the bottom of the tower so it is easy maintenance when needed.
Just an observation.....lets just say that is a Ham IV rotor ( i guess it is since you have the m107). Well mounted outside the tower with lower mast support its wind load is only 7.5. That 107 has a 13.5 wind load. Good Luck
The zip ties will dry rot in 6 months or less.You would have been better off using something metal on the turn buckles & taping over any you use on the boom for coax support.No matter how big or what color they wire ties don't last.Been there & done that so I know from experience 1st hand.Nice looking beam but I want a 7 element vertical soI can hear locals & mobiles as well.I work plenty of long distance skip on Amateur Radio so I don't worry about any on the CB Band.
