how old is this vid ? Still fantastic, very clear instructions. Strange to see some of the tools shown here, not being broadly available today (like the spinnaker retrieving line, or the above the outhaul line), and some common today tools not used (like the jib carrier line)
Good! Saved some $that's for sure. I exchanged the key blade, electronics and transponder. There's a couple of little tricks to know. The key blade may not release easy. Even when your sure the spring lock is disengaged.Might have to mangle it. The copper battery connectors can be tuff. Be carefull,work at it. The larger one has small tabs that go through a small nipple. The glued in transponder is the hardest part. I cut it away with an assortment of razors and small pliers. Destroyed the old key housing. Transformed all guts to the new ,better key housing.
I bought mine used at a swap meet so I have no idea if they are real or not. They passed most tests so I'll assume they are genuine for now. But for 3 dollars I don't really mind.
Or jur swapp out the guts (especially the transponder )into a new shell and its even cheaper. Unless the new key shell comes loaded with a transponder that is very difficult to remove. Then it sucks.
Easiest way is to take off the earpads. If the driver has a metal dome, its real. If it doesn't, its fake. If its got a metal cover but is flat, its also fake.
Thank you for this video ; especially for the well done, clear close up views. This is the best thing I've seen to ID the fakes. Fortuneately, the recent pair I bought on eBay (private deal, not a dealer) are not fakes. I have an original vintage set from Japan - late 80's manufacture that are still intact and still sound great. Much to my amazement, I think the new ones sound just a slight bit even better! They are amazing $100 headphones. The fakes are the only caveat against them, and you have done the public a great service in making this video. Thanks again. I would reccomend only buying these from an authorized dealer, or if buying used, the seller should know where they were bought, and you should research it.
This is a great video. But there is some key stuff overlooked in this vid. 1. where did you buy these? letting us know means we wont buy them from that online retailer. 2. if you got an authentic pair. where did you get them? 3. The price difference. What are authentic pairs usually priced at?
Since people have been liking this or asking the same question. This is where I got mine. www.fobkeyless.com/porsche-911-boxter-radio-remote-control-immobilizer-key.html , with a cheap blade and program cost me 330 in total compared to dealer 465.
How is someone supposed to know what sounds good unless they have a reference pair of the real thing? A lot of people do not know what to expect and the differences in sound may be lost on them unless it’s buzzing. Still doesn’t excuse someone from selling a fake $25 product at a premium. Not to mention crap reviews based on $25 headphones. Sony may have switched to nylon bags to throw off the counterfeiters. I ordered a pair of 7506 and I’ll definitely be scrutinizing them.
@@p.granger8824 how did the scrutinisation go? I’ve just ordered a pair of the 7506 yesterday and I’m not too sure about them now after reading through some real vs fakes.
My new mdr v6 came with a nylon bag with a 3" Sony logo stamped on the bottom. Are they fake if not a pleather bag? My manual was in a plastic bag with the warranty papers
the cable of my mdr-v600 moves slower and appears heavier or thicker. like if I drop the cable it makes a thick rolling plop where as a lot of headphone cables I see in pictures look like they wouldn't make much noise falling on the ground. that def doesn't look very heavy. may just be because I've had them so long or maybe they use lighter material now.
