That motor has the bad crankshaft, so it must be bent in that condition, the good oem is the one of the e9x N57, that has 8 counterweights (OEM _970), good luck
@@LakatosRobert09 what was the diatance between dpf regenerations. Often regen thinner oil due to process where injectors put more fuel into combustion chamber while regen. Some of the diesel it's not burn and mix with oil causing less and less protection for your engine. N57 crankshafts are not as strong as should be and they are prone to bent but not in your case because mains cap are fine
Thank you for your detailed explanation and links. The hoses on the BES website are either only rated to 100 Celsius or don't disclose their rating. I am sure the compressor exceeds that temperature. Which hose did you buy?
It's been a long time since I did this, but my first search for 'fan coil hose' on the BES website has brough up one that says "temperature -269 to +600 Celsius" www.bes.co.uk/braided-fan-coil-flexible-connector-1-x-1-bsp-tm-x-600-mm-14880/
@@carlfarrington ok thanks, there is conflicting information on the BES website between the Product Specification and the Specification Sheet for some products. My best guess is; hoses with an EPDM liner are only good for 100 Celsius, hoses with a stainless liner are good for +600 Celsius. Thanks for your help.
You're probably right. I just want to buy another small bike and don't want to get in trouble with the wife ! even though I have the money already myself.. she might be upset that I'm not spending it on her :D
too powerful for a newbie like me for sure. 175hp. Although I've had my license 7 years, I hardly get out and consider myself still a learner. plus I am a bit lead-footed and worried I'll do something silly.
Depends on your experience. This bike is good as a 3rd bike . I bought one few weeks ago it is definitely very powerful. I am cruising at speeds up to 110mph . If you want to keep the speed limits this bike is not for you it can go up to 100 mph in second gear effortlessly with just a twist of the wrist .
Had a 535i f10 with the exact same noise. Turned out to be Rod Bearing and cracks in the crankshaft. Safe to say it will need the bottom end opened. Most likely the long oil change intervals as recommended by BMW 😂
almost guaranteed to be rod knock the knocking noise matches the rpm about 4 knocks per second.could be something with the combustion chamber related like broken piston or something but unlikely.drain a bit of oil see if its full of metal shavings
This reminds me of my exciting years with BMW. I was newer bored, Tow here, tow there, thousands of €€ flying from me like crazy. I had finally enough when it wouldn't start in a parking garage last year. My wife and me had six BMWs, each of us three. They turned from reliable higher class cars to unreliable and wallet unfriendly pieces of over engineered junk. We both drive boring EVs and are much calmer now.
I'll let you know. It hasn't done it since my last lot of repairs/replacements, but then we haven't had any hot weather because it's been winter. I have changed my shocks, top mounts, tension struts, inner and outer tie rods, drop links - not all due to this noise - did the suspension because ride was too harsh. I think the inner tie rods might have fixed it but I will let you know if noise returns in summer.
I'm not even too sure what I am I doing here. Well, actually yes I do remember. That there was the insides from a 'Car OBD2 Gauge' that I had taken apart, and with the help of the people on the Stm32duino forums, was trying to get to a usable state as a project device - an LCD screen and microcontroller thing in a 'gauge' style device. It had a Gigadevice GD32 MCU inside and an unknown LCD. Since the GD32f103 was a very close clone of an stm32f103, we managed to get it pretty much fully working with stm32duino - later videos show the Adafruit ili9xxx LCD driver doing its display tests.
Hey Carl, would you be able to list the cables and ICOM module you’ve used to connect to the bike. I have a similar setup with a grey ICOM box but there’s no connection, on the ISTA page it doesn’t show any modules. Thank you
PS; I have also renewed several main shafts, they did not all come out as neat.. I noticed that the shafts are not all the same thickness, there can be quite a difference., I had one on which my swachplate got stuck.. .
Hello I fly the M2 Evo and recently also have considerable imbalance (vibrations) I already have many new parts in it, but no new motor yet (this one is not old yet) Could it be that the bearing of the moor itself (from a crachen) itself caused the imbalance. I have completely renewed the top bearing with shaft. when I tried it yesterday I heard a different sound, the flying went well in normal mode but at idle up 1 the sound gets worse and idle up 2 really doesn't sound good.. I'm hard on my head to find it. did you find out where it comes from? Mvgr Rudolph
Have you found out what it was in the end, I have a similar problem, my main motor, is about 60 batteries old… have noticed that there are also different thicknesses in the main shafts, and my new blade grips are also a slightly different size .. I flew those batteries 95% in normal mode .. today a new tail / motor / fin / main blades ., really everything new also the upper bearing .. blades are inline ., it makes me desperate .. can it might be the bearing in the motor itself. and yes today during the test flying, calmly shudder, I could already hear that with idle up1 it would make more noise, nothing gets warm, but with battery no. 5 ... then I suddenly had that the evo wanted to fly backwards (think a malfunction in the original fc) landed quickly.. and yes, new tail rotor broken.. Only thing I can think of that the main motor bearing has too much play.. have already spent three new Evo's on parts... I hope for a good tip ., mvgr Ruud😅
I have a loud humming sound between 3500 and 4000 rpm on my 2005 mk4 2.0 gas golf. Doesn't seem like it's related to speed because it will make the sound in all gears but especially 5th gear going about 75-80mph did you figure this out?
I have seen the same issue two Dell laptops - first was Inspiron and second one is Latitude, both purchased before 2015. Looks like issue with hardware or firmware. Not sure if Dell has fixed this long-standing issue in 2023.
Driveshafts sorted it. but 'cheap Chinese' driveshaft caused a 2,000rpm engine vibration (irrespective of gear and road speed) which caused me to go down a rabbit hole of changing DMF and clutch. The cheap-Chinese long (right-side) driveshaft is solid (like the short one), whereas factory is hollow, for even balance. Keep your factory hollow long driveshaft, and just change the joints. If it's the left-side short driveshaft that you need to replace, then just swap in the Chinese part, no problem. Just don't fit a solid long-side driveshaft. Keep the OEM one.
