A few tips as I’ve done this on fusions/milans several times. USE a Milwaukee Fuel impact driver, it pushes the bearing/hub in/out in seconds. It’s ok to use it with this kit as it’s overbuilt to begin with. Use vice grips to secure snap ring once you get it out of the groove and you’re prying it out so it doesn’t go flying. Don’t waste $ on a new hub- cut the race off of the old one. A bit of grease on things helps it slide in/out that much easier. Rent the press kit from O’Reilly’s. You DO NOT need to disconnect the ball joints to do it this way. You most likely won’t be able to anyways. Take your time!
I had a bit of a laugh when I saw the two types of spanner duly being used to complete this job dispite far better & more suitable tools being available. Not sure what most people call them now but growing up they were always called a "Cresecent Spanner". I have no knowledge as to where that name came from (suspect USA) but none the less they were the main spanner that nearly every domestic guy usually had in his tool kit irrespective of various sizes. I remember vividly my tutor whilst during my vehicle apprenticship saying that he never wanted to see one of those types of spanners in our tool kits. My personal opinion on this particular type of tool is simnply the fact that if you have a proper "Crescent Spanner" I guess they are Ok but most of these out there on the market now are usually sheer & utter Asian rubbish copies (naturally) & with so must play in their movement that I can see why my tutor all those years ago was so insistant on us not having one in our tool kits & to this very day I refuse to have one of these types of tools in mine. There are indeed far better designed tools for car servicing out there now then having to use this antique from years ago.
Well, this was a nice video to watch on a break from my nightmare, lots of rust in my area... Next is the final step of cutting the race off the hub and then maybe I'll go get this tool so installation will be pleasant. I'll have to reassemble the knuckle onto the car first.... Nightmare! Edit: I can't complain, the bearing had 414k miles on it and only failed because the brake was dragging enough to turn the rotor into a taillight bright frisbee a few times requiring water before it flamed away the car.
@@martyjoseph9507 Looks like the "Check your brakes" warning light came on in your vehicle. I hope the tool works out for you. Best of luck, keep us posted.
ese gato de tijera, totalmente inaceptable, ademas arriba de un tabique, el gato de patin que utilizaste para aflojar la tuerca mejor utilizalo para sujetar el auto.;)
Procedure worked great for a 2005 Mazda MPV front wheel bearing. Thank you so much!! The most challenging part was pressing out the bearing - very stuck. Used Liquid Wrench spray to help free it. Also had to drop the control arm to get it to re-install.
I replaced my CV joints with new ones and am still getting a wump-wump-wump sound from the front. Could it be the wheel bearings? Gosh, I hope so as this looks doable. Im replacing all the ends and ball joints too. Biggest noise maker was the worn out end links
@@68pishta68 I had to chase a wump-wump sort of noise on an Infiniti car. It was the tires in my case, they were scalloped due to bad alignment. You could try rotating the tires (front to back) and see if the noise migrates to the back, or if you know somebody with compatible wheels, swap them. If it were the wheel bearings, see if the noise is more pronounced when driving on a curve, maybe the noise is louder on the outside-of-curve side. You could also see if there is play (jack up and then shake wheel), though sometimes worn bearings show no perceptible play. Hope those ideas helps, you may have tried them already. Best of luck to you, hope it gets sorted out.
wow this is literally the only video of a wheel bearing job I've ever seen where it was explained in a way that I actually understand everything you are doing. thanks this is very helpful
Thanks matey. It’s an old video but handy. Just wanted to say thanks. I have Noc4 motor but will start looking for filter now and see if I can change it.
You are right. I could have re-used the old hub, it was in perfectly fine condition. It's only because I got a good deal on a new one and I wasn't sure how well I could remove the race from the old one.
nice video, good explanation, now i hv the courage n idea how to diy bearing replacement of my 200k km toyota suv , i need to buy first the pulling tool kit n new bearings, thank you very much !!
Just did a passenger side bearing today. Canadian Tire has an excellent kit for this puropse. Unfortunately, 14 Canadian years made everything a special measure more difficult. Speed sensor would not come out. I do not think it need to come out to change the bearing which is frustrating as now I need a new sensor to make everything work perfectly. And the toughest parts was geeting the CV shaft into the hub after all of it. Thank you for the encouragement to do this on my own as it started out saving me nearly $300 but e bearing. now the sensor needs to be replaced. Likely, nets a saving of about $250 with an overstated estimate of $50 on th
Thanks for sharing your experience, glad to know that you were encouraged to try this on your own. I hope the satisfaction of doing it yourself makes up the mishap with the sensor.
SPINDLE....... ❓❓❓❓❓❓❓❓❓❓❓❓❓❓ OK ... SOME AS MECHANIC.... LOL. I ASSURE YOU THATS NOT THE SPINDLE..... THATS THE WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY . IT HOUSES THE BEARING THAT FITS ON THE , " SPINDLE " ..... WHICH FOES THROUGH THAT BEARING WHICH THEN GETS HELD ON BY A SPINDLE NUT ..... LOL GO FIGURE .....
I rented it from O'reilly's. You can also search for wheel bearing removal toolkit if you are in a different country or in a city without that store. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/brake--tire---wheel-rental-tools/749f067e140e/rental-tools-evertough-hub-remover-and-installer-kit/ren1/67213
It's a rotary cutting tool. It's commonly called Dremel but that's a brand (like Colgate when referring to toothpaste). There are other less expensive brands. Use a metal cutting bit. Sorry for the late response.
ALSO I forgot to mention a great tip I saw on a different video. Take 10 seconds to check to make sure your new hub (if you are using a brand new hub) fits perfectly into the splines on your axle BEFORE you press it in. Would much rather know if there is a fitment issue BEFORE you press it in of course. Once you've pressed it, if there was any fitment problem with the axle shaft then you need to start over and destroy the new wheel bearing taking it all apart again
