WarmlyYours is a premiere electric radiant heating company, offering a radiant heating solution for every area of life.
At WarmlyYours, we are proud to offer a radiant heating solution for every area of life. From our flagship product, our Electric Floor Heating Systems, to our outdoor Snow Melting and Deicing options, our new award-winning LAVA® Radiant Panels and complete Electric Towel Warmer collection, we are confident that you will find every need for radiant heating in and around your home met and exceeded by our range of high quality products.
Remember, a video is a great tool for learning but it's no replacement for install instructions or an expert's knowledge. The good news is that we're available 24/7 to answer any of your questions-just give us a call at 1-800-875-5285.
I can see this making sense for homeowners who are too old, or have disabiities and can't shovel snow. Another upside, is that the homeowner will recover the cost of the system, since they won't have to pay for a snow plow service during every snowfall + a system like this will actually add additional value to the home when the homeowner decides to sell the house.
That will depend on your project I believe. Please reach out to our customer service team to see what electrical requirements are needed for your project. You can reach them at: (800) 875 5285
I did everything the same, but on the cables from the underfloor heating, I only get 7 ohms and not more, what is the reason for the bad contact, where did I connect the cables or? greeting
I tried replacing the battery in mine and the battery is permanently stuck to its terminal. I can’t remove it without damaging its holder for connecting. Any ideas?
We would recommend that you call into our tech support team so they can help walk you through how to properly address this. You can reach them 24/7 at (800) 875 - 5285
We would advise that you reach out to our tech support team to help you further identify the issue. You can reach them at (800) 875 - 5285. You can also look up information on your specific model with our product support page here: www.warmlyyours.com/support/floor-heating-control
The cable comes down the riser, usually on the corner and is tucked into a notch, somewhere it will be protected while the rest of the install happens. This keeps the cable/mats continuous over the stairs without damaging the cable.
Why there is no “ground” in 240V combustion and the new thermostat is screaming at me that I don’t have a ground protection… also make sure you install this way higher than regular switches otherwise you will bend a lot during programming process… I have mine on 5 feet from the floor and it is perfect! It needs to be on your eyes level.
Thank you for this wonderful and very informative video. I had the red light GFI issue and this video helped me resolved the issue without having to do too much digging.
The heating element is not on top of the plywood, we've installed a synthetic cork material between the subfloor and heating system to protect the wire from the hard surface below. If you watch the full video, you'll see this step during the installation. Thanks.
Since this was a raised structure with no heated basement/crawlspace, how much insulation (approx R value) would you recommend having below the subfloor in order for the heated flooring to be efficient? I live in Ontario Canada and am looking at installing your heated flooring however I'm worried about installing it and realizing that I'm losing a lot of heat/efficiency due to the fact that my cabin is raised and there will be cold air flowing below for 6 months of the year.
Hi Sarah, I would recommend using our Heat Loss Calculation Tool to help determine this: www.warmlyyours.com/floor-heating/heatloss-calculator Every situation is unique so this tool will help you best account for all the variables and figure out how much insulation or heat is needed for this project.
This is just for demonstration purposes, an actual installation would use more product. The heating mats only radiate out 1.5 inches from the cable, so heating the entire room would require more mats.
-So, my problem... UFH circuit RCD (US: GFI?) kept tripping. Ohmmeter showed N to E: ~zero ohms, N to L: 250 ohms (what it should be according to the makers datasheet for this UK 240VAC system) and L to E: 250 ohms. These readings gave an immediate (almost) answer to the question of which tile to lift. Why?... Answer below! . . . . . . . . Answer: Post-tiling, small steel brads had been used to attach the door architraves, one side of which covered the point at floor level where the UFH mains supply and thermostat cables transitioned from wall to under-tile. One brad had been fired through the power cable connecting the N to the earth braid in the section of power cable right at floor level (before it turned into heating wires). The L wire was unscathed. The zero ohms N to E reading was because the ohmmeter was reading across a circuit consisting of only a few inches of mains cable N wire, through the brad and back along the earth braid, hence the zero resistance. OTH, the L to E was reading 250 ohms because the circuit it was measuring was the length of the (short) bit of power supply L wire, all of the heating wire, a short bit of the L wire to the point of damage, through the brad and a short bit of the earth braid. Between these 2 readings, the fault had to be in the section of power supply cable before the resistance wire and therefore lay under the first tile in the corner of the room where the supply and thermostat disappeared under the tiles... As above, the damage was literally just at the top of the tile level and so, unfortunately, the whole (2' x 2') tile in that location had to be lifted to make the repair. My warm (sorry!) thanks to WarmlyYours for your truly excellent video. Shame I didn't get to use any of the rest of my arsenal of tools, though... Next time, perhaps?
Hi Martin, here is what our tech team had to say to help answer this: In regard to DC vs. AC; resistive heating wire can be powered with a DC power supply. The key consideration is that the power supply must provide the appropriate voltage and current to the heating cable to avoid overheating or damage. As for using a DC transformer in place of a variac to troubleshoot electric heating cable; the DC transformer needs to vary its power output in order to achieve the needed heating without blowing away the fragile connection that identifies the area of repair.
Thank you - as I imagined. In the end, my damaged wire was right at the beginning where a large format (heavy) and cut(sharp edge) tile had been unsympathetically shoved into the corner where the heating wire supply went from wall to floor, nicking the wire insulation sufficiently to cut through the neutral wire (shorting N to E screen). This resulted in a very low resistance N to E which gave me good cause to believe the fault lay under the first tile… which, of course, it was. An easy and quick fix thanks to your excellent video. 2 hours and next to zero cost instead of 2 days and hundreds.
Our Warmly Yours system never warms more than 70-71. We aren't sure if our builder used serosorb. Our floors were down 15 years ago. How would we know if our system isn't working or if they didn't use serosorb?
Hi Jamie, I would recommend giving our tech support team a call so they can possibly pull up your order number and see if CeraZorb had been ordered/used. Another issue is that the thermostat could be programmed incorrectly. Either one our team can help you with, you can reach out team 24/7 at (800) 875 5285
I still feel that this system ( if not for the video) is not user friendly,the instructions it came with suck and the customer service I called was very short with my questions
If I have an asphalt driveway area that’s in good-decent shape already, can we lay the mats and then have a company come and simply place the extra 2-3” of secondary layer on top of that? Or do they need to remove my current asphalt so that they can make sure that both layers + mat combine properly to be level with the entrance to my garage?
We'd advise that you give our tech support team a call to help diagnose this. They can be reached 24/7 at (800) 875 - 5285. Be sure to have your order # ready if possible so they can look up your system in our database.
Hi Cynthia, It would be best to give our tech team a call so we can properly diagnose what the cause may be. You can reach our tech support team 24/7 at (800) 875 - 5285.
The system was installed well before any snowfall, so we have a separate video linked in the description showing it at work: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7wdpsTCYoXI.html
I have the exact same thermostat and the red. Blink and light will not go away. I shut my power off to reset it as ststedcin the video. It just keeps blinking red and GFI blinks
We'd recommend that you call in to our tech support teach so they can better diagnose what the issue may be. You can reach them 24/7 at (800) 875 5285 .
American electrical hardwires are not those colors. We have Red, Black and White. Green for grounding. Black is typically the Hot wire. Which wire is the hot wire in this?
Hi, in this video the hot line is the blue one. Our tech team put together a breakdown of the colors each of the wires can be: Hot Line is Black or Blue Neutral is White or Brown Ground is Green or Green/Yellow Hope that answers your questions.
I am curious about the floor. Did you remove all of the tile to find the location of the issue? Or was the issue discovered prior to the tile installation? Thank you in advance.
The tile had not been installed yet. We always recommend that the system be tested, before, during and after install. So this was after the install was done with the final layer on top (before flooring). We offer tools that can help identify how far down the cable it is damaged/not connecting. You'd then follow the SmartPlan (installation plan) from your order and find the area that must be excavated to make the repair. Thanks for watching!
