Most flat tappets are going flat no matter, I just built a motor, had it on a break in stand, put in $100 break in oil broke it in at 2500 for 30 mins, dumped the oil and filter put another $!00 break in oil and filter and 4 hours later flat. My buddy just broke in a cam and same thing and while we were discussing it in the store two other people said their cams went flat. I just watched a video from a well know builder saying 50% of flat tappet cams now go flat. Also some builders will not even put them in and you can bet they know how to break in a cam.
I recently had the same failure with a new flat tappet Cam on a BBC spent 1300 Dollars on a hydraulic roller retrofit set up, definitely hurt the wallet been running great for a couple months now not a cheap conversion for sure
After replacing the condenser fan, 2 relay switches, a pressure sensor that blew out all my damn freon!! Btw peeps, a 2015 Nissan Xterra does NOT have a Schrader valve! It was this stupid little plastic sun load sensor that kept me from being cool in hot af Miami. Thank you Gearhead 327
I'm here to be technical and also say that this was cool! A 14" stick of 4" sch 40 PVC holds 0.76 gal in case you wanted to know the amount of fuel he has in his PVC tank. Not including the fittings. To get a gallon of liquid in the 4" PVC you'd need 18.38 inches. So also, the parts he used was a cleanout adapter + cap, and a regular cap
A thorough job before and after sending it to the machine shop. One less thing to be worried about if someone got careless or half-assed basic cleaning. A bit of a pain in the ass but less than tearing into the engine that you dumped 10k into because oops.
Thank you! This is the only video I was able to find that covers this repair. I've replaced that sensor on my 2007 Xterra. It was a shot in the dark to try to fix the issue of nice cold air coming out for the first couple of hours of a long drive to then get warm air. I figured the repair is simple and the part not expensive so let me give that a try. Fingers crossed; we'll see...
Does a 2001 Frontier xe use that same part? My ac kicks on only once in a while . When it does it works great but it may work all day or go out after a minute or two. And it may or may not come back on for a week or more.
Just some thoughts ……Brake cleaner evaporates too fast to use in that situation really, better to spend a bit more time brushing with WD40 and then flush it out afterwards with brake cleaner. If you leave in the hot tank for longer with the water boiling the agitation of the bubbles helps to clean it out
Great vid! Thanks!! I have a gen1 350 I’m replacing g in my one ton YJ with a 98 Vortec, and wasn’t sure if I should save the old v belt setup, or keep the Vortec serpentine system- you just convinced me to keep the Vortec setup! I just need to clean and aluminum paint it now, and the pulleys so it all looks as good as the motor! Thanks!!
"Break in" Did Detroit ever do this, or did they just do a 5 or 6 minute run in to check for leaks and vibrations/noises, and get the timing set plus final carburetor adjustments to decide if an engine was worth putting a transmission on? As close as I can find, Lunati came out with 'voodoo juice' somewhere near 1990ish, but other more seasoned engine builders would know more than me about special oils history. Point being, a "break in" is a final mating of parts - a burnishing of sorts. The modern variant strangely uses oils with decreased protection to accelerate wear. [Why are we wrangling with cam failures I ask?] There's only one engine component that has no other choice but to finish mating after a machine is built: the rings. And if the hone is good, that happens quickly. Our cams and lifters only need oil film protection - if ra stays under 40 as ground. Maybe... break in oil should dress the bores and skirts for assembly and that vr1 goes in the sump? There is no help from the SAE crowd because the astm tests [IVA and IVB] they lean on for cam and lifters both specify overhead cam engines as part of test procedure, and that means...API certs and product labeling are useless or non-information when the application is a pushrod/flat tappet engine.
I'm an EE. The Cathode is negative and anode positive. FYI. Great job with the video I've got to clean the cooling passages in a 1917 model T ford block.
During electrolysis, the Anode is the negative or reducing electrode that releases electrons to the external circuit and oxidizes during and electrochemical reaction. The Cathode is the positive or oxidizing electrode that acquires electrons from the external circuit and is reduced during the electrochemical reaction. If a battery is discharging, the cathode is positive and the anode is negative, conversely if the battery is charging, the cathode is negative and the anode is positive according to its greater difference of potential.
I have a question that I can't seem to find an answer too? I want to replace my entire ignition switch as they are very inexpensive. there are 2 wires going into bottom of switch and no one seems to know what they are for or how to remove the connector from old switch. 1995 D21 4 cyl 5 speed man shift???????
Spent lots of time at PAW before they closed! Thats good stuff (lube) not that runny crap. Not a fan of that line of cams but the 256 and 262 grinds make good torque
I Have A Issue With My 94 D21! The Unit Will Work Sometimes For A Few An Then Stop And When It Stops You Have To Turn The Vehicle Completely Off An Back On For It To Work Again! Thought It Was The Blower Motor Because It Wouldn't Work At All At 1 Point So I Purchased A New 1 An Still Nothing! So Then I Purchased Another Climate Control Unit An Still Nothing But Then Out The Blue That 1 Started Working! I Think It's A Relay But I Only Have 3 Relays Under My Dash An The Middle Relay Is Controls Nothing! I Swapped Those Around An Still The Same Problem! It's A Real Pain!
that will work but you need that hole for water bypass to keep pistons from hot spotting , vortec uses a full time heater hose bypass to achieve this .. drill 2 or 3 1/8 holes into thermostat and should be ok
50 yrs experience.....yes I could, if I knew how. The video is good, too much time getting to the point. If you dont like comments, turn them off.@@Gearhead.327
Funny, I am doing the same job on my 1985 Nissan 720. Even though there are slight differences between our vehicles, this video provided me some useful preparation. I am replacing all front end bushings except the lower control arm bushings (because that is a bear of a job. I'm hoping they are still usable and don't need replacing). Like you, I bought all new components (crosslink, inner/outer tie rods, adjusters, upper and lower ball joints, radius arm, etc). Thanks for the informative video!
When I turn my key on my dashboard lights doesn’t come on and it doesn’t make a dinging noise the engine turns over but doesn’t start what can be my problem
