My goal is to help you to understand how to get your guitar to play better. I am also on that journey myself so sometimes we learn together. Sometimes I do parts swap comparisons. Sometimes I demonstrate how to service your instruments. Sometimes I just show off cool new gear I'm excited about!
Guys this guitar fucking sucks. He plays incredibly well. I’ve had this guitar for like 15 years I think. I hate it so much. I’ve tried to break it…. It won’t break. It’s like a curse. I won’t see it for years then bam! There it is. Ugly fat guitar. Pros? Built like a tank. Always there to haunt you. Makes you kinda jacked cause it’s so hard to play.
I honestly like how charismatic you are brotha. You hit that into like a documentary segment history channel and it really kept me from switching ! I hope you make it to the top Kidd we need more passionate entertainers and teachers like yourself
@@Andyjamz4u this is probably the kindest comment I have ever received! Thanks so much! Check out some of my other videos for more tips on out to take care of your guitar!
Folks, the customary factory shims should be a 2 on top (rectangle) and an 8 on heel (triangle, sort of). The difference is 6. If you need 12 up top then add 6 more to your heel. 12 top and 18 on heel.
Also for the treble booster setup, you kinda want to have your amp already breaking up, I've been using a blues JR and i set the gain to 9 and quite good amout of volume, this is that when i kick the treble booster on i can get the most drive posible
I did this to a yamaha pacifica with the stock pickups, and i did got some similar sound but the problem was that even using the bridge and middle pickups it would still sound very twangy, thats why tri sonics are desired when making these, since they have a higher output and inductance than normal single coils but, if you get single coils with similar characteristics as the Tri Sonics, you can get very similar sounds, for example rory Gallagher had a similar sound (probably because he was using a vox AC30)
@@MillerCustomGuitars I couldn’t get over the clunkiness under my picking hand. Every time I went to turn the volume up or down I’d bash my knuckles on the tail piece, besides it really is limited sonically imho at any rate. They are incredibly easy to install and uninstall
I find listening to these samples that bone either brings more high freq in front or loses some lows and tusq keeps the freqs better overall. I have bone nut and saddles in a Yahama FG and almost no lows at all.. I will try tusq next
It's not for an amateur, but also this is a skill you can learn yourself from books and materials available online (I did, and well enough that I charge people to do it). If you are working on your own guitar (especially a cheap guitar), when I say go for it. You're going to mess up the first one (or two or three), but you're going to get there eventually and learn some valuable skills in the meantime. Everybody needs to start somewhere.
you mounted your bridge a fraction of a mm too far from the 12th fret. NEVER hand make your neck or drill body holes for the bridge. A 1/4 of a mm in either direction will require you to re-tune your ax every time you change keys. (it will NEVER intonate correctly). It's not an easy fix because no wood filler is as strong and resonate as wood. Use a standard 2 part apoxy with sawdust (in a hurry) to fill the old holes. Wait a week and re-drill. OR, just buy a NEW light body that is already drilled. Stew mac has fair stuff, -nothing lightweight, however. Parts made by reputable companies (e.g. Schecter) will be made using CNN manufacturing. This is GOOD. This is why MOST new guitars tune well, out of the box. As a kid, I remember the days before CNN (long before) when your first consideration for buying ANY guitar was it's ability to tune! To find a well tuning box that also sounded like a cathedral would cost significant bucks (for the day). I have no idea how Leo did it, but most NEW pre-Colombian Fenders played in tune -even Teles with but three adjusters. The NEW repro threaded steel saddles are not good. The original threaded steel saddles were made from over-head cam engine bolts (valve cover bolts cut into pieces). These bolts were made from the finest hardened (dense) steel. Today, however, the repro threaded saddles are CAST from MOLDS and less dense steel ( made with zinc! How cheap can you get?). Hence, the modern threaded saddles don't sound good. I have a '65 Esquire. When I tried to replace my original threaded saddles with the standard, modern Fender 6 adjuster, barrel saddles, the sound reduction was obvious and severe. I played one chord and 4 or 5 notes. I then put the original saddle back onto the guitar -FAST. It was frightening. BTW, this guitars weighs just an ounce over 5 bs and has more sustain than any electric guitar I have played in over 50 years. Nope, it's made from ordinary Alder. However, the pieces were but from the outside of the tree. Outside wood is lighter. With Ash, the wood MUST be taken from below the water line to yield a guitar under 8 or 9 lbs. Modern Fender is making fine guitars, but you have to lift weights to play them. I have regularly seen Les Paul's that are lighter than Teles. A heavy body may sound OK and clean, but only a LIGHT electric guitar body can offer enough resonation and sustain to make the guitar sound so good that your will sell your wife to the the Arabs before you sell your guitar.
This is by far the most bizarre comment I've ever receive. It's also not true. This guitar intonates fine. Literally my entire channel is to teach guitar owners how to get the most out of their guitars. This includes setup and installation. And honestly, 1/4 of a millimeter closer or further from the neck is completely absorbable by the adjustments available in electric saddles.
I do not see any comments at all about cost and how to do the work ... go look and find out if you want to spend the money needed and the skill level needed....
All instruments move over time due to the fact that they’re made out of wood, even expensive ones. Taylor (and Martin, and Gibson, I’m sure) have a warranty that would cover this adjustment being done, but there are no service locations within a reasonable driving distance from my home.
The Epiphones made in Bosman Montana are quality built instruments. Chinese made Epiphones are just that. You are putting lipstick on a pig and its still a pig. You don't get quality materials from Chinese made Epiphones. If you want a quality guitar made with quality parts and woods you are going to pay for it.
Check out the video where I revisit this topic. Personally, I believe that the nut is quite possibly the most critical component relating to a guitar’s playability and setup, and yes I believe that it affects tone.
Plastic, Bone, and Tusq: Sound Comparison and Finalizing Acoustic Setup. Nut and Saddle Series pt. 3 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-73b3PEUcMkA.html
I own a Cort CR250. Do you think it's worth the upgrade to this bridge on my guitar, since my guitar sounds really good and is very well built? I must buy rollerbridge and bridge. Do you suggest, at least on my guitar, since I think mechanics are not good as well as your 335s, to upgrade to locking tuners? If yes, which ones? Thank you very much
For me, the first thing I look at is always the nut. If your nut is good then your tuning stability is probably good. IMO a roller bridge can help a little, but if you’re having lots of stability issues when using a trem (or stability issues at all) check the nut first. Is it cut right, at the right height, are the slots relieved properly, free of burrs, lubed, etc.
@@MillerCustomGuitars mission accomplished. I bought locking tuners, tusq xl nut, rollerbridge and trem. No need of string butler. Can't see result on my Cort. When I'll have a real V I'll do this customization. Thank you for this video
Those epiphone’s just don’t sound that great. You improved it but it’s just how they sound. 15 years ago I went thru all these different acoustics and I learned a lot. If you want a good sounding acoustic don’t buy it from epiphone. In that price range buy a Yamaha FG830, comes with scalloped braces, solid spruce top, laminated back and sides. You can get one in the same sunburst finish for $350. If you pay about a hundred fifty more get a Blueridge. Which will sound the closest to an actual Martin. A BR60 is a Blueridge with solid top, forward X bracing and laminated rosewood back and sides, bone nut and saddle for about $500. I remember being really impressed on how those epiphone’s looked but when I played it I was severely disappointed. Or save up and get a Martin. They have several different lines now, ranging in price and they all sound amazing.
@@MillerCustomGuitars yeah they are great sounding acoustics! I worked as a sales rep for saga musical instruments back in the 90’s. The Blueridge guitars have come a long way since I worked there. They always were a good sounding guitar but they really did improve upon themselves with tone and finish. I learned a lot from working as a Rep there.
@@wyattsdad8561Wondering if you have an opinion on Yamaha F455 made in Taiwan? I have had one since 1990 and would like to have it sound better. Nice blue burst but sounds a bit dead compared to a Maton that I also have.
I have a 2015 Les Paul Classic Sprint Run. It's got standard neck width unlike the 2015 LPC. It also has a titanium zero fret nut. The zero fret nut can easily be adjusted to set the action height at the nut, and there's very little string friction. I installed locking tuners and a Schaller roller bridge on it, which together made the tuning very responsive and stable. Sooner or later I'm going to try a Les Trem or a Bigsby on it, it should be smooth like buttah. I hope it still fits in the case after that.
Thanks! Those are inversions of E, A, Asus, C#m, and B open chords. If you make a “B” shaped power chord (X244XX) you can slide this up to the seventh fret and play it with all the notes ringing and it becomes and open E (079900). Drop that down to the fourth fret and it becomes a C#m. If you are interested, I can make a quick video on these open chords.
@@MillerCustomGuitars I loved that progression & would definitely like to see a video showing these chords! It would be super cool of you to take the time to do that!🙂
it not the same guitar lol and dude buy some fuking lights instead of being creepy, the ones to light up your face so we can see who the hell is talking
Cheapie guitars, good for beginners who haven't decided if Guitar is their thing. The loss of value though... no matter how much money you put into them upgrading. Tradability is what I would look at, as we tend to trade and purchase a better quality guitar. (at least that's how we used to do it back in the 70's-90's) These cheapies, you loose too much. Even with cheaper Ibanez guitars... a huge loss in trade value. My old Austin brand LP was a pretty solid player without modding it, but really pales in comparison to the real thing. As a keeper, you made that HB sound good with the new pickups.
Here’s my opinion: the quality of “cheap” guitars has drastically improved over the last 20, 10, and heck even 5 years. Can you imagine a guitar having stainless steel frets 20 years ago and having a price tag less than $1,800? And this guitar cost $280. And honestly it’s a banger. Who care’s about “value” if it’s going to 1) inspire me to play 2) Play and sound great and 3) be a great affordable platform for mods? You are right. This won’t hold value like a Gibson or Fender, but it absolutely rips.
I think I need a set of those GFS pickups for an unfinished project. You should remind viewers to keep all of the old hardware. If you ever decide to sell it, it's still a used HB that's worth $200 no matter how much you spent on it or how great it plays. Thanks for the GFS tip!
Yeah man! I like the Surf 90. For a cheap pickup it’s pretty cool, and it looks great. In most cases I recommend keeping old parts in caee you want to “return a guitar to stock” to sell it, but honestly for this guitar I’m not worried about it. I have a bunch of TOM bridges and Stop Tailpieces floating around, and as for the pickups, not sure what I’d do with then anyway. Lol. Thanks for watching!!!
Thanks for a great demo, i prefered the bone overall. They all sound good and each has its place for playing style and the guitar. Strings, picks etc are other factors etc..... thanks again for a great demo!
So, it was YOU who bought out the last Desert-Flame-Burst ?! Damn it, now I have to wait 8+ weeks for Thomann to have them back in stock. They are all sold out on this color. I had to buy the Harley Benton SC-450-Plus LD Vintage Series (with 2 Volume controls with push/pull function for coil split), which is most excellent as this one. Amazing color and sound too. Thanks for the review.
@@MillerCustomGuitars Its all cool. This guitar model (DFB burst version) has been out of stock for a long while now. You are very lucky to have one. I will have to wait to get mine. BTW do check out the SC-450 LD (Lemon Burst). Amazing color on it and sounds really good too.
It actually gets completely out of your way. Since it's behind the bridge, it doesn't impact your playing at all. It's pretty cool. If you want add a tremolo to a TOM style guitar, this is a great option.
