Thank you, I now have a better idea of how to control/change the settings that my supplier has set. Their support only want to tell me that my settings are in their opinion the best.
Thank you You actually helped me get my inverter that was stuck in bypass mode back on track Annoying that there's all this battery and it was not using it
When US setting is selected, dc cutoff voltage is stuck at 42v, tried several times, with mains and battery, no luck....anybody knows how to resolve this?
Hi Richard. I have an issue with ny growatt. I have the dame inverter as you. On bright sunny days, the growatt assumes my lifepo4 cells are full and stops sending power to my battery or to my house.
You are too fast, I am too slow. Things are missing. When I press and release Enter, I have no modes available with up down. Do I have to press Enter to change mode??? What I want. Initially just solar. I could not use angle grinder if not enough sun. Added 20Ah batteries, I could use in good sun some power tools. Then cold mornings, gave me some battery error. Oh, trash batteries, not new. Now I want just solar with extra batteries when tool starts up or not enough sun. Power tools I may operate a short time. I am seeking 80Ah. For now I see just utility priority and no way to change it. I have it entirely off grid. I suspect that Enter is a switch of modes. Pls explain.
Question: I've set my inverter settings to: 012 = B2AC 30% ; 013 = AC2B 50% ; 014 = CGPR SNU However I noticed that the utility or AC kicks in when the battery discharges to 80% and not the parameter set in setting 012. I've since changed setting 014 to C50 in order to avoid the AC kicking in. Is there a way/setting I'm missing in order to meet the parameters in settings 012 & 013?
Gen2, ethernet adapter to tp link 5 port switch. All was working fine until a close lightning strike, took out both routers connected to the switch. Got a new switch and now it shows " connected, no internet" wifi works where the router is located. Should I try to reset it like you did? On my starlink app, "router"and "Starlink" are 2 different options( on 2 tabs) should I reset both? Thanks for any help!
I tried it, didn't help on my situation. I think it's the router. We've replaced everything, cables, switch, ethernet adapter. Have a new router on the way. Hopefully that's the fix!
@@lauracollins5892 Hi Laura, I have exactly the same problem due to a lightning strike as you mentioned with the starlink ethernet adapter, a 8 port switch and 2 wifi access points. Did you solve your problem and how?
We have problems that occur sometimes, when it is sunset the inverter charging keep switching between solar and grid for like 2 minutes keep peeping, until the solar panels can't detect light anymore then it will stop pepping , how can we fix this problem?
Hi dear If I want to depend primarily on solar system to power up the house when central electricity shut down, and conserve battery to minium as I live in long summer sunny area, what best setting
What’s the trick so you can use this feature with the free monthly April FSD preview? Do I have to have destination enabled while driving around in a parking lot?
If you have version 11.1 build 2024.3.6 and full self driving 12.3 you just need to drive slowly past some parking spaces. They will be highlighted on the screen. Tap the spot to park, hit start and the car will take care of the rest.
What's the expected power generation i can expect from this model if i add 5220wattage of jinko bifacial solar panel? Can you give me an idea regarding this? And what's your highest production from a single 5kw growatt inverter? Thanks.
I have 6.2 kW west facing panels that generate 20-40 kWHr from spring to fall and very little in the winter months. Peaks in summer. I have an issue where I can generate more than I can use depending on my needs that day. I’m not sure if that helps, but hopefully it gives a reasonable comparison.
This video should be helpful explaining the app. It works fine without solar. Solar is just one input. You can use this app to track grid usage and house demand as well as battery usage and state of charge. Prior to having solar I had the inverters and battery pack. I used the batteries as a house backup in case of outages. It’s a great way to time shift usage. Charge at night use the battery during the day.
Yes got my system and now trying to connect hue! No ethernet port!So wich is the latest ethernet router? I just ordered adapter for the standard kit plus one node. All starlink product. Some on yt are showing router w ethernet plug in the router. Im not finding that router in ther store. Im new🎉Thank You
Thank you Richard for the great video, if I have 1=SUB this means I am using solar panel as the first source, if my loads exceed the solar or the solar out drops (say 10%, 20%...), will it switch 100% to utility or will it only compensate (get the difference) from U=utility or from B=battery if *utility was not available* in the same manner? also will the battery be charged if 1=SUB setting from solar or from utility ( what about during the night )?
If solar is not enough the utility should compensate. The battery supplements the difference if the solar is insufficient and utility is unavailable. Any excess solar power will be used to charge the battery. At night the utility powers the load. You can set the inverters to charge the batteries with a maximum current (011) and window of allowable charging (049). I try to avoid grid charging except in the winter and incoming storms in summer.
I had mine without solar for a few months before I bought my panels. The best settings is to use UEI for setting 001. This will use the battery if the utility goes out. You can set the max charging current per inverter using setting 011 and setting 049 to determine when it can charge, to maximize off hours costs if possible. Let me know if you have any other questions.
There’s a problem with my system, I wonder if anyone else noticed this issue: on a particular scenario, the (single) on-grid inverter draws 23A on “L” leg and 3A on “N” leg as if it doesn’t know how to use split phase. The input power draw is 23Ax120V+3Ax120V=3120W but very imbalanced. The current imbalance propagates to output where one leg (“L”) pushes way more current than the other. Then the output power is being measured on “L” leg and the inverter overloads. On battery power alone (off-grid) the inverter outputs correctly and works as it should. To make matters worse, a second inverter in parallel won’t fix the issue. My attempt to fix it is to add a 15KVA split 240/ single 240 transformer to make the inverter draw 13A/240V instead of 23A/120V+3A/120V. Anyone encountered this issue?
I use a Growatt transformer to split the 240v output into two 120v legs. My load is evenly balanced. The purpose of the transformer is to maintain the voltage on each leg. Depending on your model is can handle a load difference from 20 amps or more. Note, anything that draws 240 volts will not be impacted by the transformer, it's just for single leg loads. signaturesolar.com/growatt-11-4k-split-phase-transformer-ats-11400t-us/ It's possible you have an issue with your downstream neutral. What happens if you switch the output to the two legs? Additionally, it's possible you can re-organize your downstream electrical panel to better distribute load to the two legs.
This thread details this by design. As with all electrical components assume it's live, because it might be, even if it shouldn't be! diysolarforum.com/threads/growatt-5000es-ac-voltage-detected-on-pv-input.50235/
You can export the data by logging into the Growatt online interface and scroll down, find the inverter (device) in the list, then click on History Data. You can set a date range and then export it. I had trouble because it doesn't work with Safari. I had success with Google Chrome.
Hi RIchard. I have my setting 1 set to SUB however my PV output is limited to 12 watts even on a sunny day. This effectively means I am miising out on the PV production which is the whole point. Any idea what I am doing wrong?
12 watts seems like you may have a bad connection or a faulty panel? I suggest checking the voltage of your string to make sure you don’t have any issues. If you find the voltage is too low you’ll need to check all the connections and each panel. One bad panel can ruin the entire string if you don’t have optimizers. If the string seems good then double check all your connections to the inverter(s). If all the connections are good and the voltage is what you expect it may be a settings issue with the growatt. In that case try changing the settings to SBU and see how it handles the load. What PV output are you expecting? Do you have optimizers?
If your inverters are in parallel they likely don’t have the same AC power going into each. I only get this error if I am power cycling and kill the AC power to the inverters. That error will come up if one or more have had their AC power disabled. How is your system set up?
That’s a great idea for a video. In the meantime my AC grid power feeds into a sub panel that provides 50A power to each of the three growatt inverters. The grid power can be used to power the house or charge the batteries. The three inverters are connected to an output sub panel that ties to a growatt transformer to provide two 120 volt legs. The sub panel outputs to the house distribution panels, which powers everything in the house. I’ll make a video detailing the connections soon.
