Here at the Hot Rod Reverend channel we are all about the Y Block, mid-fifties Fords, and sharing the redemptive power of the Lord Jesus Christ. Follow me, an ordained preacher of the gospel, turn wrenches in the garage on a 1955 Ford Fairlane, shop equipment, and other DIY projects. Visit HotRodReverend.com/blog to view technical articles, pictures, videos, and a whole lot more. If you subscribe on my website blog, you will receive email notifications when a new article is posted. Sub to the channel today!
Wondering if it's best to have simple say, 5" pipe with ball valve exiting the rad where gravity can collect water before it goes to any filter? This way, the filtering system won't be so overwhelmed. What do people think?
Wondering if it's best to have simple say, 5" pipe with ball valve exiting the rad where gravity can collect water before it goes to any filter? This way, the filtering system won't be so overwhelmed. What do people think?
Thanks for the video. Very instructive. I also have a 55 fairlane town sedan and Now I’m ready to tackle my driver side replacement window that was vandalized along with the door cylinder that was also damaged by an unknown person. Thanks again for the video.
Hot Rod Reverend, You Sir are my "go to" source for working on y blocks. Thank you for posting all your videos. Jesus Christ of Nazareth is our Lord and Savior 🙏
I have watched a lot of similar videos, and I am puzzled as to why everyone insists on using rigid copper or aluminum line? I would use flexible hose for sure...
Something I've been putting off doing on my 2003 F150. And days are getting shorter up here in the PNW! That compound sure has a lot of uses, doesn't it?? (I like the sandpaper filing system, btw!!!) Great video Rev!
I have the same setup. But Ive blown out two water separators at 1st run up. I am not looking to break another one. How did you initially set up yours for the 1st test to work properly? Did you have it full open?
@@jondoubleu1 the initial setup was only 3/4 open for the water separator. I have run it wide open since then with 0 issues. This is just a HF regulator/separator combo, nothing special but it works. I do drain it before and after using the compressor in the shop each day.
@@DeanPutnam-l2f it’s been a while. The chain is a size 40 to match Carter’s original gear set and the belt is for the series 40 torque a verter setup for Comet brand. Very standard stuff.
@@mikeceli no idea. With the compressor running full bore for any length of time I cannot touch the inlet pipe without burning my hand. The outlet is cool to the touch. Next chance I get I will get my infrared thermometer out and check the numbers.
You can never have "too good" of an ignition system. One of my favorite sayings. Improving your ignition system increases torque, horsepower, gas mileage, and gives you cleaner exhaust emissions.
Yeah, whenever I buy aftermarket parts or OEM parts, I wonder "is the quality going to be good enough?" Dealership parts are more expensive, but you can usually count on them to be "good enough" quality.
What I found on my 68 Falcon is the headlight switch I settled on was a GENUINE OEM Motorcraft one. Paid triple of what it would cost for an in house parts store brand. Second thing that permanently fixed it was using a headlight relay kit. Normally I'd make my own but life got in the way and I took the easy way out. Love your channel!! The Summit carb videos were most helpful.
I love breaker points on some of my cars, but this I will have to try as well. Seems like it’s more reliable than pertronix. Maybe on the t-bird . Great info and coverage. Thanks Reverend 👍👍
points make a spark just fine... I used the vented variety back in the 80s and 90s and had no problems. These days it is difficult to find quality ignition components.
I still run points in a few rigs, but only ACCEL brand points on ones they are still available for. Unfortunately I have not been able to find, even a NOS set, for the Y-block. You are so correct about parts manufacturing today. Shameful how poorly parts are made now. This ACCEL unit looks very similar to the Mallory Unilite system which had its share of poor reviews of the electric eye failure, not all but it wasn't uncommon. I'd like to give this ACCEL unit a try, betting they improved on that design better then Mallory. Thanks for the information!! Another great video!
So...is this basically replacing the condenser? What is this doing exactly? I can just take the condenser out and replace it with this plug and play kit? What are the benefits?
This kit replaces points and condenser. With points, there is an adjustment that needs to be maintained for proper clearance. With this kit, there is no maintenance. With points, you would also be concerned about the dwell of the spark. With this kit, there is no need to be concerned with that measurement either. There is no concern either over the points "floating" at high rpm.
Way back in the day it was a Mallory brand. I had no issues at all ( save for getting a new rotor locally ) in my 68 Falcon for about 10 years. I STILL have the box it came in.
Yup, been tossing points since late 80s. I also use MSDs but even the MSD wires arc at high load so don't let them touch anything and need copper contact caps. BTW, I had my cams ground for best torque curve not max HP. My super charged car has a lot more power than my Ebird but the bird is a lot more fun to drive because of the huge immediate power but it took a lot of carb work solving bog with the twin carters. The super charged car gets double the cruise mileage with the same trans, rear and tires even though it weighs 300 lbs more. Shifting to 3rd in OD at 90 in either of them is still a lot of fun. Watch Tom Kirstensen 1959 thunderbird at goodwood. There is an out of car vid and a very immersive longer in car vid. I'd have another J model except they only had the cruiso trans. My 59 is a GT 390 with factory 3 spd OD. For my high stress life gotta have a comfy quite cruiser and fortunately for me no one likes square birds. Pound for pound I also consider them the safest domestic car ever built including new models, I wish I didn't know this. Next time you see one look at how the heavy gauge inner fenders are attached to the frame. The entire car is very strong.
When you change your gas tank sending unit you have to match its range of resistance to that of the gauge you're using you also have to adjust it for the tank depth you can do this without putting the sending unit into the tank when the float is in the bottom most position the gauge should be empty . When the float is in the up position the gauge should read full. You can fine-tune it by using a variable resistor in the .circuit
Regardless of building cars since 1968 and 30 solid years aerospace machining skills no matter how perfectly flat, perfectly sanitary, perfectly applied perfect sealants with perfect gaskets tightened perfectly my yblocks and FEs still drip after couple of years. Carboard diapers solved it. Mr. Engine Builder sed cars not driven regularly gain water and acids in the oil. Down draft tubes and pcv valves don't suck near enough. After solving a super charged yblock crankcase venting with 3/8 tubing from the valley pan to a venturi nozzle in the exhaust pipe aft of a muffler worked so good I did that on my other engines. BTW 10 years ago was going to stop building cars because I couldn't get off the floor anymore. Ramp lift took all the pain out so still building them, should have got it 30 years ago.
I get it about the lift - would love to have one when we purchase a home out here in California; have looked a few places where that may be a possibility. On the crankcase venting to the exhaust pipe - this does intrigue me. Did you use rubber hose all the way back, a hard line like a 3/8" steel fuel line and a bung at the pipe or what?
@@HotRodReverend Soft copper tubing but any would work. Put a simple 90 degree brass barb in the valley pan. I shape the venturi nozzle like a tear drop from thin wall metal tubing with Z shape tube out the exhaust pipe with a simple flange plate and attach copper tube to it with short fuel hose. Need fit tests to find proper Z to go in exhaust pipe hole but not too difficult in 2.5" exhausts. Can feel the suction even at idle. I don't use breather type filler caps and hoped it would slow the leaks but not that lucky. No idea how others vacuum their pumped induction engines. My garage is 11' ceiling which still allows a 57 bird on top and 57 ranchero under. I even put cars on the lift just to clean the wheels and the bendpak is so strong it doesn't need bolts to the floor. I also installed a jib crane that swings over the lift. I never liked those little engine pickers.
On mid-50's passenger cars it can be a hassle if guys are not paying attention to the TDC thing and the oil pan. It looks real simple just to remove all the bolts and disconnect the oil supply tube, but as you know - the oil pan will hang up quick on one of the crankshaft throws and you cannot get it out. I also have to remove the front sway bar - keeps the gasket from sliding off and all.
I am Glad You where able to remove it with that metal polish. You need fender covers with Magnet's 🧲 🧲 sewn inside. 😊 Beautiful Car !! Love The Built Ford Y Blocks Blue Oval 💙 Love 😊
Dear Hot Rod Reverend do you have any idea How to keep cool the Compressor cylinders? Mine always get too hot when charging the airtank... Good Video anyway thank you!!
@@ppszabihun your compressor should have a fan, driven by a belt off the electric motor, that is moving air across the cylinders. The block and the head(s) will get hot because of friction - there is no way around that. The fan and the fins on your block and heads will help dissipate heat.
Saw your video troubleshooting horn and it's excellent. My 1956 T-Bird was doing the same thing. I noticed the aged squished rubber but I didn't think that would be the culprit... it was! Horn works perfectly. Thanks
