@@713bigbear once the tensioners are set, there shouldn’t be much at all. I’d say you need new tensioners which I’d always recommend replacing anyways when timing
Everything is new with maybe 1000 miles on it. The 1st time I did it. I timed one side wrong. Found your video and retimed it. Getting maybe 1/2- 1 " play between the water pump and cam. I'm thinking if the chain stretched that much with driving it not timed correctly. Or even of its possible
@@713bigbear pull off the the tensioner and actuate it in some oil see if it’s still functional. Kinda odd, if the marks are all aligned it should have good tension if the tensioners are fresh
Het mate, I am changing my 350z HR cams for tomei poncams and I had a question. There is a cam position sprocket that is on the back end of each cam, secured with an 8mm allen bolt. The poncams do not come with this so it needs to be switched over from the old cams to the new cams. I can't seem to get it off as the cams wont go into a vice without damage. Do you have any tips for removal or if not, I can't find out what this part is called for purchase. Any idea what it's called?
@@user-be1cb6kp4x should have hex notches in between the lobes, use adjustable wrenches (I had a friend hold 2 on 2 different spots) as I used a impact to get mine off, then swapped and repeat but using a torque wrench. I can’t remember the torque spec off the top of my head but I made a video on cam installs and I believe I mentioned it in there. Otherwise hmu and I can get it for you, it’s in the manual
@@nizmospec0012 Thank you mate, that was exactly the information I needed. I'm very deep into this cam swap so any help is super appreciated. I found the part and its called the camshaft signal plate for anyone wondering. Also, due to the heads being on and the engine in the car, It seems like I will have to complete the cam and timing rebuild in order to check clearances between cam and bucket so I can turn the whole rotating assembly in time. Then I'll have to take the timing and cams off again to replace any buckets that need it. Am I missing something or would this be standard with heads still attached?
@@nizmospec0012 Thank you mate. Again, for anyone wondering, With all the timing removed, I simply advanced the crank about 40 degrees so no valves would touch on any piston, then just rotated each cam however I wished to get clearances, just like you would with the heads detached.
@@nizmospec0012 I watched your video and the one from ase the other day when the hangar came in. Between both yours, and ase videos it seems pretty simple. Ordered the hardwire kit after watching your other video too lol.
@@nizmospec0012 okay for sure. Idk how ase got there hoses to just slide on easily in the video lol. I had to manhandle that shit on there multiple times, but I finally got them on after I blistered my hands 😂
@@natewilliams9579 all ya gotta do is take out both bolts on the u-joint, and it will freely slide up the steering column. The column does not retract like other cars, so all you can do is unbolt the u-joint to disconnect it. But once you do it will freely move over out of the way. Just try not to rotate the wheel/column, as well as bump the wheels and the alignment will be the same. I say this because the column splines has an alignment spline that ensures the u-joint goes on correctly. I’d highly recommend an alignment at a shop afterwards just to ensure it’s centered
@@elijahstewart1333 JWT provides valve springs & shims to go with the cams during installation, as well as checking valve lash. I had to swap out a good few valve lifters (the buckets on the springs) to keep the lash within tolerances. All of this work I’ve made tutorial videos on should you decide to get the cams and looking for help on installation
Whats the rule for you multiplying the out of spec bucket by 2... Was that the standard, or was that just so you could get the closest number to be in tolerance?
I don’t believe I ever multiplied anything “by 2”, are your referring to the formula I used for determining the new lifter thickness? Or when I was rounding up the measurements, because that was due to ordering new buckets that were closest to what I measured
Insane build. I'm about to instal tomei poncams 266/10.8 into my HR Z and was after your opinion on getting the tomei headers to match the cams? Super expensive in Australia so was wondering what gains roughly the headers would make with drop in cams? (Ported plenum upper and lower, 3" cai, full exhaust, JWT clutch/LW flywheel ,4.08 Z1 LSD)
If you’re looking to make the most of an N/A build, I’d definitely recommend some aftermarket headers and tomei is a great choice! Just try to do some RU-vid research on what exhaust setup you plan on running and see if that’s an exhaust note you’d be happy with, that’s the most important part after all
Kinda? It’s not “set” until the chains are on, but you can slightly adjust what you need, just take care not to turn the crank while the valves are compressed or you’ll risk bending a rod/gouging a piston. Just verify #1 TDC and have your cam gears aligned accordingly
im just now realizing that almost no one knows how to time these engines even you, they're just eyeballing the marks on the primary chain for the two intake cams on the top, because each time you watch someone do timing all of their marks shift after its done, and the shifting can be around 1 tooth difference, all over on each part of the crank and cams position, this is made worse because there is no actual line on the cams and line on the cranks that match up like they do on a honda, its just eyeballing and depending on where you hold the camera, the viewing angle makes those marks also shift, its very very skechy.
I’m sorry but you’re very wrong here. These marks are indicated as seen in the manual, which is exactly what this video is based off of. Please refer to pages EM61-EM70 of the Nissan manual for further information regarding to timing chain installation.
The chain links never shifted teeth in this video. What you’re seeing is releasing the compression of the valve springs on the lifters, because they naturally are all at a closed position. So when relieving the pressure the springs are going to push the lifters, rotating the cams into the next fixed position, as seen. You want the marks aligned as shown in the video, install your chain onto the teeth accordingly, then relieve the pressure after verifying all your timing marks are correct. Just because it shifts doesn’t mean it’s out of time. So long as you had your marks aligned when putting your chain on, you’re good to go.
@@nizmospec0012 EM61-70 doesn't you show any specific marks, each person on youtube especially showing DE engines basically just is showing eyeball positions of where they think the alignments should be at, its not like a honda motor where you have EXACT marks that line up perfectly when its timed, to make things worse these engines have CVVT which means the cam sprockets retard and advance independently from the actual cam lobes, so even if you're doing them this way you still need a jig that nissan dealers use to reset the timing properly, with a timing jig, it sets on top of the cams and the sprocket and moves them into position so they are exactly lined for both retard/advance for intake and exhaust. the service manual wont explain that, same as it doesn't give torque specs for the gallery gasket plates and says not to remove them as a caution item
@@Runescape. it quite literally tells you to align the pins on the camshafts to an upright position while set at TDC, slide the camshaft gears on, align the marks on the gears with the marks on the Chains, and boom you’re timed. I’m not sure what you’re trying to prove here. This isn’t the first VQ I’ve timed, and you can hear from people that have watched this video themselves that it works. If you can’t determine the alignment marks on this engine, you shouldn’t be touching it to begin with unless you’re open to learning. Quit trying to discredit others that have done this process plenty of times.
Thanks man! When I made this video It was FBO with cams, but currently in the process of putting my turbo kit on among some other things and will be trying to make some more content as I dig into that 🙂
Hi, what are the cams exact specs? IN/ EX (duration & lift)...I believe absolute maximum is 11mm lift to have enough cearance from the piston....thanks
I’m currently doing my gallery gaskets on my 08 Z. I just pulled the timing cover and I set the crankshaft to match the line on it. However both of my cam sprockets are about a tooth off. Is there any way I can fix this without having to pull the valve covers? Can I spin the cam sprockets just slightly with the timing chain removed? And then just put it back on with everything lined up?
What a good video brother, thank you very much for posting this. I will try to replace my Valve stem seals but won't be removing the head. I might not have the option of using compressed air to keep the valve from falling, but can you please confirm what exactly you said I can fill the cylinder with so that when I lift it to TDC it stops the valve from falling? One more question, and sorry if I'm being annoying, are you able to replace valve guides also without removing the head or will that not be possible?
Appreciate that man! It’s definitely more for there fun days and past the point of enjoying as a daily, but I’ve never not enjoyed driving it, just waiting to get a few more parts to throw my turbo kit on and it’ll be almost done 🤞🏼
Hello i have a 4.0 nissan motor for a pathfinder and im currently trying to align the cam timing how would i turn them to get them in time i removed valve covers
Hey Veloster gang🤙🏻 Unfortunately my Velo has a cracked block after a month of ownership and come to find out the dealership sold me a shit car knowing it was a shit car. But I'm buying a DE soon. Ik Ik it's a DE but it's an up rev and I plan on getting VHR up and lower manifolds. I'm just scouting cams cause Idk what brand to get yet.
can't have ver lower and upper manifolds on the DE. Only the hr can have those since it has the dual intake design and both of them share many parts in common as compared to the DE
@@rayyansiddiqui3490 damn I forgot about that. Car I wanted sold but I'm still looking for a decent price thats not clapped out or beat to shit. What's a good alternative manifold for a DE then? Definitely want to keep it N/A for a while because we have a daily and daily+ class at my local strip and I don't wanna break out of that class if I go turbo or S/C lol. Next class up is the trailered race cars and I'm poor😂😂😂
@@Nofuxgvn.z34 go for hr because mods wise it’s a lot cheaper to make 300whp, for a de to make that your looking all bolt ons plus upper lower ported manifolds e85 and cams to make as much. Yes hr is more expensive but I guarantee you if you get a de, at the back of your mind you’re gonna be thinking “ I wish I got an hr instead”
@@rayyansiddiqui3490 I've seen de revups run 300whp with just a few bolt ons and 93 tune...if I can find an HR for a deal I'll definitely snag it but if a DE comes along first then first come first serve lol
@@Nofuxgvn.z34 trust it takes more work to get a revup making that much, they burn oil and at the end of the day an hr will always be faster and more reliable. If you wanna save some cash go ahead but I think it’s worth dropping an extra 3-4k for that performance
I feel you, but In comparison to a tomei setup without longtubes, this is definitely a little deeper but just enough to where it doesn’t have that true dual pitch. I still prefer the single exit tone
Thank you for making such a detailed video. I will be doing the valve stem seals on my '05 FX35 on the block in the vehicle. This is a tremendous help. Bought the tool because of this video. JWT should sponsor you.
