I just love RC stuff since my childhood. It seems like RC has no limits and new projects are poping in my head every day. It started with planes and has become a real obsession that I want to share to entertain you or to teach you something new. Enjoy!
I am amazed by your skill and the beauty that you have created. This is an incredibly long and difficult hobby path. And I'm just getting started, yesterday I printed out a small ship for the first time on my printer, measuring 2.5x8cm. I will strive for more, look up to your creativity!
I haven't built all FT designs, but the Sea Duck is the best flying one, in my opinion. Take care of your Duck and it might fly a couple more years! ;-)
Bei 10min und 10 Sekunden im Video solltest du ein Diagramm des elektrischen Schaltkreises der Lichter sehen. Es ist unvollständig, da ich einige Dinge nachträglich geändert habe. Ich verwende ESCs, die einen BEC-Ausgang haben. Einer der beiden gibt mir 7,2 V und der andere 5,2 V. Das ESC mit 7,2 V ist mit dem ESC für das Bugstrahlruder, dem Schalter für die Hupe, dem Schalter für den Feuerwehrschlauch und dem Schalter für die Bilgenpumpe verbunden. An die 5,2 V habe ich die Lichter angeschlossen, die immer eingeschaltet sind, sowie den Schalter, mit dem die Such- und Deckslichter aktiviert werden. Ich werde in den nächsten Monaten ein weiteres Video mit mehr Details online stellen.
Hallo, ich bin nicht 100% sicher deine Frage zu verstehen. Meinst du den Plan den ich um 10:10 im video Zeige? Wenn du die 3D-Druckdateien gerne hättest musst du mir ein E-Mail schreiben : dostie.bernard@gmail.com Ich habe euxh ein Dokument mit allen teilen die ich mir für den Bau besorgt habe.
Hello , i am building the ship right now, but somehow. some of the links are leading to the end of thingiverse :) is there a way that you can send me the missing parts ? Controlpanel railing ect ? Thanks inadvance, nice build, have a lot how you build it.
Hi, the bow thruster motor I used is the BR 1811 Racestar 2000kv 2s. I haven't used it in salt water and treated it twice with an anti rust product in 2 years. It runs like on the first day and I played a lot with it. Probably around 30 hours.
Good Afternoon I was searching a while ago and was able to locate your links on the addition's you made, unfortunately they are no longer valid when I tried on my PC, is there a way you can upload again ir enail direct?
Hi, I understand. Write me a e-mail, I can't find the files online etiher. I still have them on my computer and would be happy to send them to you. dostie_bernard@gmail.com
C'est un beau passe-temps de bricoler de petites choses de ses mains. Continue! J'ai inventé les différents modèles que tu vois dans cette vidéo. Cela prend pas mal de temps, comme tu peut t'imaginer. Je n'avais pas l'intention de les vendre, car les moteurs ne sont pas très durables. J'ai l'intention de les changer pour quelque chose de mieux. Ensuite, je serais ouvert à en vendre. ;-)
Hi there, wondering if you have details on the ESCs you used for the Bow Thruster and the Main Motors? Also, can you share the propeller part you used for the bow thruster? Thank you.
Hi, I used this ESC (20A) for the Bow Thruster and I would use the 50A one for the main motors. I Purchased some expensive ESC for the main motors. They are equipped with reverse, but I would rather have installes Bi-directionnal ESC like this one in the link : tinyurl.com/3u73pbfe For the propeller of the Bow Thruster, I downloaded a '' RC boat propeller'' on thingsiverse. I can't remember wich one it was. I upscaled it until the shaft of the spinner of my motor could fit and then I cut the blades so they could fit in the hole of the Bow. I hope this helps. Have fun builduing and don't hesitate to ask other questions.😉
Great! I loved it, thank you for everything. I want to ask you something. I have a large amount of PLA filaments in my stock. If I use them in my production, what would you recommend for the adhesive mixture?
PLA slurry works fine. I would recommend testing it before. I used ASA because it's easy to sand and to obtain soft surfaces. It's at least easier than PLA, in my experience. Good luck with your build. It's worth it!!
It is a very difficult task to design and build an RC sailboat. You have started on a long and thoroughly rewarding endeavour. As you learn, you will implement improvements and see the result. I suggest you try a Kingmax SW22 winch. Same size as a standard servo but far more torque and pull than a servo with an arm. Keep designing and modifying.
Thank you for the wonderfull design of the Dragonflite 95 sail. I have also been working on creating a 3D printed DF95 sail rig because it is not available for purchase in my area. but my work is not finished yet
Nice job! Once I finish building our house I am going to get a 3d printer and do the same. Thanks for the inspiration. Cheers from Osoyoos, eh :) I think the fact that it was a model of a planing hull instead of a displacement hull, it may have had issues with turning. Planing hull forces change when you scale things down from real world size to model scale. The boat probably will not plane in the model scale, and may have problems turning. I think I'll make my model a displacement hull, something based on classic Americas Cup designs. Subscribed!
Thanks for your advice on this huge issue I had while building this model. While reading your comment I felt that you're right about this and I think I understand a little more why this problem is still not completely fixed. I will build another sailboat this winter. It's an S40 model. Good luck with your house build and thanks again. I'm happy to have a subscriber who sems to know something about boats? ;-)
Very cool, I am using your build and your videos as a guide for my own project. Thank you for providing so much detail. Did you seal the hull with anything special, or just paint it?
Thansks for your comment and nice words. Just the paint should do the job. I suggest you use some primer before applying your paint to get a smoother surface and to make sure that every little remaining imperfection in the hull is corrected. Happy building!
Wow, thanks for the reply. I am considering adding something to strengthen the keel but will take your advice on mostly just painting. Will keep you updated :)@@bernarddostie8892
I Used this propeller : www.aliexpress.us/item/1005002018604536.html?spm=a2g0o.placeorder.0.0.5695321ePsvKR9&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa This prop shaft (8mm outer diameter and 4mm inner diameter (30cm lenght)) : www.aliexpress.us/item/4000239259177.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.24e8229bD6lAGq&algo_pvid=288738ce-1fe9-4c45-87f1-b63b5bc8ff7c&algo_exp_id=288738ce-1fe9-4c45-87f1-b63b5bc8ff7c-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CAD%2113.18%2111.21%21%21%219.49%21%21%402103204217018847361975949e7d4f%2110000000969846360%21sea%21CA%212670469893%21&curPageLogUid=cVDWCIdVLofF ***This could also do the job : www.aliexpress.us/item/1005002662525407.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.21.24e8229bD6lAGq&algo_pvid=288738ce-1fe9-4c45-87f1-b63b5bc8ff7c&algo_exp_id=288738ce-1fe9-4c45-87f1-b63b5bc8ff7c-10&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21CAD%2110.65%2110.65%21%21%217.67%21%21%402103204217018847361975949e7d4f%2112000021606241100%21sea%21CA%212670469893%21&curPageLogUid=WU0wwewK9c0T You'll need some Motor shaft couplers too. These should be easy to find online and will depend on the motor drive shaft dimensions. 😉
It's too heavy to go as fast as other boats of the same size. It's printed with 5mm walls and I think 2mm would've been sufficent. A competition sailboat like the DragonFlite 95 weighs only around 2kg (including 1kg of bulb). I thinks thats partially the reason I had to add a second rudder and that it still lacks manoeuvrability (in my opinion).
@@bernarddostie8892 For printed boat is not bad. Competition boats are made of carbon composite, or balsa, well I don't know if anyone made them of balsa anymore.
@@sjoormen1 The boat had various issues. Even with the 2 enlarged rudders it turned extremly slowly. Maybe the keel was still not in the right place... The bow was also too deep in the water and made it hard for the boat to turn and the hull was too heavy. It ws designed with 5mm wall thickness and I didn't changed it.
The Bilge pump worked fine, but I bought a regular pump and just changed it last week because it wasn't able to prime on it's own. So when the tubes were empty, it wasn't able to pump the water out without me sucking on it so the pump could prime. Everytime I took the boat out, I had to prime it that way. Now I bought a tiny pump that prime's itself. I hope it's big enough for the job!@@titanicminion
Nice Job, well done!!! I saw you used some of my thingiverse parts ;-) great! Would be nice to see a link of my built: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8lPZ1_GXMgY.html
@EvgeniySky63 The ships overall weight is 16 pounds (7.25 kg). With the battery I am using (3300 mHa 4 cell Lipo), I have about 20-30 minutes run time. I had some difficulties aligning one motor with the driveshaft and I think it's because of the 3D print itself. This motor didn't liked it at all when I went fast (let's say more than 1/3 of the throttle) due to friction it burnt and I had to change it. This new motor is perfectly aligned and doesn't overheat. You can't go full speed all the time (like I show in the video at one moment). These motors are made for airplanes and can't be pushed to their max capacity the whole run. All the parts of the driveshaft should be installed with Locktite because the vibrations. I hope I answered your questions.
@@bernarddostie8892 Thank you very much for the answer! I think I will use motors of about 400kv and a battery of 2-3 s but with a larger capacity, for example 7000mah. Also use a cardan to transmit torque. Thank you very much again! Your work is very impressive!!! Today I finally printed the case)
@@EvgeniySky63Your plan sounds good. I think you'll have a boat with a decent speed with those 400kv motors on a 3s. The cardan can help with the motorshaft alignment. Have fun building and thanks for your kind words regarding my build. ;-)
I have built a few Dumas kits over the years, and I think I could build one of those just as fast as the 3d printed one. This is a great build, great scale. Quick tip, to keep from fogging your windows, use canopy glue, CA can fog glass as it cures. Also try to use screws to hold as much of the cabins as possible, you will need to get back into them for updates and repairs.
Thanks for the advices. I should have tested the glue before using it on the windows and I will definitely buy some canopy glue nexte time (now that I know that this exists! ;-)
Did you have to dual wire (using y cables on the battery and transmitter plug so one transmitter and battery can power both) the 2 esc to power the 2 motors?
@@bernarddostie8892 what esc did you use? I also wondering what you used as weights for ballast because rn I fried my esc's (it was faulty) and the ballast I am using rn is taking up too much space (they are boxes of bolts) XD thanks
Btw, I am using a 14v battery and wondering if its necessary to program the esc, because I want my version to go as fast as yours (the speed and power of yours is incredible btw)
@@titanicminionI used two 60A FlyFun ESC's with reverse. I bought them on Aliexpress here is the link : tinyurl.com/a4c4ff9j. The motors I used are way to powerfull and I would'nt try to put full throttle for more than 15-20 seconds because everything would get really hot. If I had to remake this boat, I would go with an Esc that has the option to be colled down with water. The motors are really powerfull too (I used the 790kv version of these) : tinyurl.com/3nu5v4dr For the ballast, I went to a local Steel cuting factory and bought some 1 1/4 Inches steel rods left overs. Just look carefully in the video how I installed them. And yes, to answer your question for the motors in your first comment, I use a Y harness to use only one channel on my reciever for both motors.
Thanks a lot @500Hu! When you look at around 2:24 of this video you'll see that I put a lot of weight otherwise it wouldn't handle the waves. Thanks again for your suggestion and kind words!
I downloaded the accessories from Thingsiverse and adjusted the size to the model, measuring them piece by piece (I didn't use any scale, just feeling). The accessories that were made by Peter Sripol didn't need any adjustments.
@@bernarddostie8892 Nice👍 Btw, How did you position the ballast so it wouldn't get in the way of the electronics and what did you use to hold them down?
