Welcome to my channel! Follow along as I upload videos of my projects I have around the house. A couple mini bikes and still trying to finish my 69 Chevy nova with a big block 475, my Powerstroke 6.0 build progress and side jobs that I do here in the garage! Starting this channel and dont have much editing skill so bare with me! lets make some bacon!
Then you need to do your due diligence and try to find where the prob is. If your shifter moves at those bolts, then check the trans side and see if it moves there. And go from there
Yeah, teach him a lesson. Damage your own stuff before they even pay for it. What if you get there and they don’t want it because it’s all screwed up? Dumba$$ of the year award for you 😂
@ArmandoE-ty8rq It was listed with scratches and dents, I just gave em a little more.. he lowballed me on already a good deal. and your the dumbass because I got paid! No what if. he got $800 headers for stupid cheap and your bringing up shit that never happened. Thanks for watching 🤡
Thanks, I saw the other riser plate options you mentioned, but it was easy enough to do it my way honestly. But thanks for the tip! Maybe others will choose it
No problem! I am selling these currently and also a FDU support bar for 3/Y that sits between fenders when you dropping front crossmember. Would love to collaborate with you and maybe you can use it/help promote! Thanks
Question: When installing axle again: Should there be some back and forth play from the driveshaft to the drive unit? In normal cars there is, however I'm unsure in these cars? I replaced my Model S 17 driveshaft and could not get the play to disappear, it locks into the locking ring ofcourse but there is around 5mm back and forth play. Thanks!
Movement is necessary for suspension travel. These axles are same as others just beefier. So that back/forth movement is ok as long as the ring is locked in. That “play” is a good thing. If you pull the cv bearings out of the groove it won’t move. That’s bad. So you’re ok.
They are easy to replace, just four t10 screws. I also suggest you check the service mode to see if they are bad, or you have air in the system. I.e service mode, thermal, coolant. Watch out for red. If there are no red, just vacuum fill your coolant, and you should be good.
No luck.. they can overstretch if you don’t put it in right. When you install the axle, put the opening of the C-clip facing down. Luck is if you don’t know what your doing. I pull out axles from 3 & Y’s with a flex head pry bar. This tool is for the front units w/o access.
Depending on year. Early S’s had gear fluid (straight cut gears inside) then after changed to It’s atf-9 and the latest newer models use Unicorn blood lol. So far I have not seen it sold lesser than a 55gal drum. And it looks like old trans fluid, hazy maroon-ish. But the fluid does not need to be serviced. If you drain it, catch it and re-use
I have the same problem i belive :/ Speed sensor conector is beoken on the harness from car side so i need to splice it. Is it not possible to take the harnes from an chrashed car and plug and play? Or maybe this wiring harness is to big?
Yeah you can, this is what i did. And I have a few. I could send you one if you cant find it. I know ordering pigtails is kinda tricky. I will get you the exact connector # if you let me know which wheel speed sensor and for what model and production date.
That’s literally exactly all everyone on OfferUp does is tries to lowball left and right. Even when I mark “Firm on Price”. It’s not even a few bucks neither. I had an iPhone on there for $650 one time and that was cheap for the iPhone it was at the time. Then they wanna try to lowball it to $300. I wanted to meet up with them just to punch them it the face for that. It’s disrespectful.
Awesome! Thank you! My pin fell onto my foot and I had no idea where it fell from haha! Your video helped me see where to re-install it. Using the information I checked my T-30 bolts and since they were tight I was lazy and didn't unscrew them and Loctite.
Thank you! And yes we have countless hours of pain and pleasure in this build! I’ll post a video of the final soon! Stay tuned and subscribe! It helps motivate me to make and edit these videos!
Sorry for late reply. Syneticusa 3157 is the brand on Amazon. Here is the link>> www.amazon.com/dp/B07JGMCHGT?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_MH4YGXHE8BAM9NB7F6Q6
did u run any kind of special carb for the e85. My race car just has a old holley, all stainless braided hoses, and a fuel cell will that be enough or is it necessary for the carb to be swapped
I did buy a e85 carb kit and had to buy bigger jets. Make sure all lines are e85 compatible and your good for tuning! It took me a few trips of butt tuning but the e85 liked timing with my low compression and did not like cold starts. I did not have a choke. But it ran great after warm up. Also make sure you have e85 stations where you plan to cruise as it did get like 7mpg and I had to take two 5gal jugs in the truck on long trips.
